Optima Battery Frozen?

[plastic_indian]

Originally Posted by Metallman56

however, do they make a battery with both top and side terminals? that's what I'm after. side for the starter, top for the music

BCI 34 (common chrysler) is a top post; BCI 78 or 75 (traditional GM light truck, traditional GM passenger) is a side post. 3478 group batteries combine both top and side posts -- optima produces one (maybe the one they call a D34?). The footprint of the 78 is substantially larger than the 75, but can often be shoehorned in.

[TDavis]

I also read that Optimas batteries used to be manufactured in the US but then it moved to mexico and the material inside the batteries is not up to par anymore with the US made batteries.

Something along those lines.

[ItsMeScottG]

Originally Posted by TDavis

I also read that Optimas batteries used to be manufactured in the US but then it moved to mexico and the material inside the batteries is not up to par anymore with the US made batteries.

Something along those lines.

I've also heard that the quality went downhill since they moved production to Mexico.

Interstate battery's are good, we sell them at my shop and they seem to be of good quality.

I personally use sears DieHard platinum battery in my GA and my tahoe. They are dual post (top and side post) I've not had any problems with them.

[2000 GT Coupe]

I used to have, until 2010 when I moved to florida, a 1986 chevy cavalier z24, it had the original delco battery in it and it still started and worked well though I do believe in the cold it was too weak to start every time The last 3 years, by that time it was not a daily driver. This battery was in the car for 24 years, it was used in North Dakota where temps could be a blustery -66F with windchill and -35F actual temps and up to 105F I seen both those temps on occasion.
That battery had at times gone dead and stayed that way for weeks when the temps were -30F for the entire month of january and we drove a 4x4 instead of that car.

Just a little fun fact about that hell hole

North Dakota's Temperature Records

Hottest temperature ever recorded: 121 F, Steele, south-central North Dakota, 1/6/1936

Coldest temperature ever recorded: -60 F, Parshall, northwestern North Dakota, 1/15/1936

Hottest location ranked by highest average annual temperature: Fort Yates, southern North Dakota, 44.2 F

Coldest location ranked by lowest average annual temperature: Hannah, northeastern North Dakota, 36.1 F

On January 20, 1943, the temperature at Deadwood was 16 degrees below zero, while the town of Lead - only
a mile and half away, reported an amazing 52 degrees.

Over 50% of the state of North Dakota has experienced temperatures of 110 F or higher, and 35% has experienced
temperatures of 114 F or higher.

Approximately 75% of the state has experienced temperatures of -42 F below zero or lower.

[rocketfast123]

Originally Posted by Metallman56

yeah I've heard interstate is a good brand. however, do they make a battery with both top and side terminals? that's what I'm after. side for the starter, top for the music

Sears sells a diehard gold with top and sides for cheap. I was gonna get one for the wagon but our local pull-a-part had one that was brand new for $25...Well it was old but no ware.

[bricooper78]

Originally Posted by plastic_indian

BCI 34 (common chrysler) is a top post; BCI 78 or 75 (traditional GM light truck, traditional GM passenger) is a side post. 3478 group batteries combine both top and side posts -- optima produces one (maybe the one they call a D34?). The footprint of the 78 is substantially larger than the 75, but can often be shoehorned in.

You are the man, again!

[dagenais]

I have the same battery it's 5 years old and living in Ottawa, Ontario - Canada it's been -30 for the past week and average -15 the past mth... The battery is still strong and holds a great charge.

I have a volt meter in the car, cause of stereo so I'm keep an eye on it...

[bricooper78]

The thing everyone should take away from this thread:

If you're not driving the vehicle on a regular basis, buy a battery minder. Regular driving keeps the battery fresher somehow, and they have far fewer problems, and seem to last quite a bit longer.

[ItsMeScottG]

Originally Posted by bricooper78

The thing everyone should take away from this thread:

If you're not driving the vehicle on a regular basis, buy a battery minder. Regular driving keeps the battery fresher somehow, and they have far fewer problems, and seem to last quite a bit longer.

Very true!

[Metallman56]

battery was dead again yesterday from not driving it. got it started and drove it around a little while only to come home and it be dead again. only its not 100% dead it will run everything except the starter. when I try to start it, nothing happens. no crank, no attempt to crank nothing. every time I've had this problem its been because a battery terminal is lose or corroded or something of that matter. I have tried to hook up the battery every which way I can think of it still does the same thing. both ignition fuses are good. I've tried my fully charged yellow top, and it does the same thing. I don't think its the security relearn thing cause last time it did that, it would crank forever just not start. any ideas I'm really stumped.

[AleroB888]

Originally Posted by Metallman56

battery was dead again yesterday from not driving it. got it started and drove it around a little while only to come home and it be dead again. only its not 100% dead it will run everything except the starter. when I try to start it, nothing happens. no crank, no attempt to crank nothing. every time I've had this problem its been because a battery terminal is lose or corroded or something of that matter. I have tried to hook up the battery every which way I can think of it still does the same thing. both ignition fuses are good. I've tried my fully charged yellow top, and it does the same thing. I don't think its the security relearn thing cause last time it did that, it would crank forever just not start. any ideas I'm really stumped.

I was going to post something about the red top batteries but looks like it's gone beyond just a battery problem, if you tried a known good yellow top. Are you sure the yellow top is also good ? You should start a new thread now, but I guess the next to test is the alternator. If you put a kill switch on the battery, you can try disconnecting it every time you park the car after a drive, see if something was draining it. I carry a charged jump box along if there is any doubt about my battery's condition.

[Metallman56]

just tried the relearn procedure, and nothing. also tried to just the red top to the yellow top, with my battery charger on, and still nothing.

sigh

to answer questions above, the yellow top is what I used to jump my wifes escapes this past weekend when it was -11. I keep it on a trickle charger almost year round. its the battery from my boat which has a ford 302

also got the voltage meter out and I have 13 volts at the battery, fuse box, and alt.

I'm really at a loss right now

[bricooper78]

Well, they load test they do at your FNPS can detect bad batteries, having a dead cell or whatnot, that's what the dead batt (not even a year old btw)I just replaced had.

Sitting and not being used is apparently not acceptable these days, or the batteries have cheaped out really bad

[AaronGTR]

Did you swap out the red top for the yellow top to try starting it, or did you just hook the yellow top to the red with some jumper cables? Sometimes if the battery in the car is dead or has an internal problem, just hooking up a good power source isn't enough to start it. You can't always pull enough amps through the jumper cables and the small contact points they make. I'd try reconditioning/recharging the red top with the method they described in that video, with both batteries out of the car, and see what voltage you get from the red top then. If it tests good, and still won't start the car, then you may have an issue with the car itself. Either a weak starter, or some other electrical connection causing high resistance. Check the cable attachments to the starter/solenoid, the wire and fusible link going to it, and your ground points.

[Metallman56]

I took the red top out and replaced it with the yellow top. no change

then I hooked up the red with jumper cables to the yellow and turn on my battery charger to 10 amp. no change

I'm actually convinced its not a battery issue but a car issue. the starter is less then 2 years old, but I suppose that could be it. tomorrow i'll crawl under it and make sure everything is tight.

also I should mention that yesterday when I tried to start it the whole engine was wet with condensation. I don't know if that could have caused some sort of short, or not. but it cranked yesterday.

[bricooper78]

Isn't there a relay for the starter? If not, what about the neutral safety switch on the tranny??

[Metallman56]

problem solved. 1 starter wire was about 1/3 of a turn lose.

sometimes I swear its the little things that screw me

thanks to everyone

[bricooper78]

dude, that sucks on one hand that's all it was, but on the other, that's awesome you didn't have to buy anything!!

[Metallman56]

Lol right im just happy the mystery is solved, tracking down electrical problems really sucks