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Old 04-02-2014, 04:51 PM   #21
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Whats the point in having a stock engine tuned at 750rpm?
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Old 04-02-2014, 04:53 PM   #22
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It might be tuned for 650-750 ish. Usually sits around 700. But probably needed for the trans swap and all. Thats just how it was when I got it from MMS. I dont mind it. Car runs fine at that rpm.
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Old 04-02-2014, 06:05 PM   #23
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Quote:
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Whats the point in having a stock engine tuned at 750rpm?
Manual trans.

I know for Turbo Dodges of the 80's the difference is 150 rpm's between autos and manuals
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Old 04-02-2014, 06:21 PM   #24
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1. rap on the IAC with a screwdriver handle
2. tug on/inspect the IAC pigtail for damage
3. look for a vacuum leak
4. drink a beer
5. look again for a vacuum leak
6. give up guessing and track down the equipment needed to diag it: FP gauge and code reader/scantool to start
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Old 04-02-2014, 06:23 PM   #25
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Mhmmm

The car idleing at 475-525 rpm is to low to keep voltage up.
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Old 04-02-2014, 06:56 PM   #26
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Yeah you should probably look at your vacuum gauge sleepy. I forgot about that.
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Old 04-02-2014, 07:05 PM   #27
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just take parts from ryans car to see if they fix your problems... his dont run so not like it matters
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Old 04-02-2014, 07:11 PM   #28
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Yeah you should probably look at your vacuum gauge sleepy. I forgot about that.
Vac sits where it has when it idled fine.

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just take parts from ryans car to see if they fix your problems... his dont run so not like it matters
I already got one so meh. His could also be bad
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Old 04-02-2014, 07:32 PM   #29
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Can someone please post picture of location IAC Valve. PLEASE
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Old 04-02-2014, 07:54 PM   #30
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It looks like this and its attached to your TB.

Right above the TPS

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...p-ac5_w_ml.jpg
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Old 04-02-2014, 08:38 PM   #31
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stop

every time my car runs like crap at idle its because my intake has come lose from my throttle body. its hard to see, and it could be a very small gap. low rpms makes the volts go down. I also thought it was a alt, which I replaced and it fixed nothing. battery was also new, didn't fix the problem. worth a try man.
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Old 04-02-2014, 08:40 PM   #32
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it looks like this and its attached to your tb.

Right above the tps

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...p-ac5_w_ml.jpg
thanks
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Old 04-02-2014, 09:41 PM   #33
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No problem.

And ill try tightening the bolts metal.
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Old 04-02-2014, 09:44 PM   #34
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You can (and should) just pop off the alt. and take it into your FNPS and have them bench test it for you, it's free (here anyway) and quick, and that way you can go ahead and rule that out. An old beretta of mine was dying all the time, come to find out the voltage regulator had bought the farm, and once it was warm, it broke connection or whatever, and it'd drop to the point the car couldn't run off of it.
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Old 04-02-2014, 10:03 PM   #35
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you can also disconnect the battery after the car has been started and the alt if good should make enough power to keep it running.. if bad alt the car will die
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Old 04-02-2014, 10:49 PM   #36
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Well its FIXED!!!!

It was indeed an IAC. Im letting it warm up to temp to be sure. But shes idleing at 1050 right now. (Cold start) so we will see if she gets normal. But shes doing fine so far.

Good info there. I tested it about a month ago and it checked out but doesnt mean it cant go bad in a month either


Volts are at 14.5 right now and she fired right up no hesitation and is idleing freely on her own.
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Old 04-02-2014, 11:06 PM   #37
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Good job starting at the IAC. Your symptoms sounded just like mine when my IAC went out last year. My car would randomly idle about 1000-1200rpm and there was a few times when I had to pump the gas pedal a little to get the car to start.
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Old 04-02-2014, 11:33 PM   #38
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Yeah HPT led me to a bad IAC since it was sitting at 255 and not moving when the motor was revved. Plus its not even supposed to be that high anyway. Lol atleast ive never seen it go that high.
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Old 04-03-2014, 12:00 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bricooper78 View Post
You can (and should) just pop off the alt. and take it into your FNPS and have them bench test it for you, it's free (here anyway) and quick, and that way you can go ahead and rule that out. An old beretta of mine was dying all the time, come to find out the voltage regulator had bought the farm, and once it was warm, it broke connection or whatever, and it'd drop to the point the car couldn't run off of it.
Honestly, that wouldn't do any good. Those bench testers are crap. They can't apply load to the alternator. I did that once when I was having voltage problems and they said my alt was fine, but in the car it wasn't working properly. I tested it in the car with a volt meter while I started turning on accessories and found that the voltage was dropping. The voltage regulator had gone bad, and a bench tester can't test that part.


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Yeah HPT led me to a bad IAC since it was sitting at 255 and not moving when the motor was revved. Plus its not even supposed to be that high anyway. Lol atleast ive never seen it go that high.
Yeah, since your scanner was showing no IAC activity that should have been the first place you checked anyway. Good job finding the problem.
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Old 04-03-2014, 12:03 PM   #40
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Thank you sir happy shes ok.
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