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Old 04-13-2012, 07:42 PM   #161
madmike77
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ok so i did head gasket uim ,and lim gaskets about a year ago and i noticed oil sitting on my block the other day which im pretty sure is the lim gasket slow oil leak no mixing of fluids tho i recently had to replace my catalytic converter cuz it was clogged my rpm's would go and engine would roar but did not want to go. my question here is could the back pressure have gone back toward engine and blew out the lim gasket and at highway speeds between 2k 3k rpm's my needle jumps up and down between 2k and 2500 rpm's iac valve was replaced about 14 months ago but i did buy a duracrap i talked to a guy who said it could be the throttle positioning sensor any advice here would greatly be appreciated!! also a little help with cleaning old gaskets i used a cookie wheel to get old gasket material off and i did not see torque specs for the upper intake manifold.
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Old 10-02-2012, 12:18 PM   #162
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TYVM!!!

Took a few days off and did this.

Probably 24hrs in total, ya ya I know more than double it should have.

Biggest problem i had was with the lower bolt for the thermostat housing, until i noticed that you bent that metal bracket out of the way.

I had water spewing out both sides before the repair, couldn't make it to and from work (15min one way) before i was out of coolant.

Once i got down to the LIM i found the 4 outside bolts were loose enough to remove with just my fingers :/

spent approx $230 CDN.

LIM kit - felpro - LIM gaskets, UIM gaskets, valve cover gaskets, RTV
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Old 10-13-2012, 03:06 AM   #163
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Thank you so much for this. I'm not done yet but it's been a big help. I self medicate so trying to take it carefully as I reinstall these pushrods and rockers. I had to get a decent amount of tools which made my repairs a little more expensive but thank you so much for the details and all the pics.
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Old 07-17-2013, 07:42 PM   #164
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rocker arm torque spec

Anyone know what to torque the
Rocker arms to on 99 gt,, 3.4. V6 ?
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Old 07-18-2013, 05:30 AM   #165
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Anyone,,,,,,please!
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Old 07-19-2013, 11:08 PM   #166
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Originally Posted by rowe View Post
Anyone know what to torque the
Rocker arms to on 99 gt,, 3.4. V6 ?
From the original post:

31.) Reinstall the pushrods (making sure they are in the correct order) and put the rocker arms and bolts in finger tight (Making sure the small ridge on the bottom of the rocket arm pedestal lines up with the in the heads). Now torque all the rocker arms to 168 in-lbs, then tighten the bolt an additional 30 degrees.
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Old 07-20-2013, 03:07 AM   #167
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Old 07-20-2013, 02:28 PM   #168
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AaronGTR has made plenty of valid pointsAaronGTR has made plenty of valid points
Just fyi, my service manual says 14 ft/lbs plus 30 degrees. That might be close to 168 in/lbs if you do the conversion. They don't use in/lbs for much in my manual though. Almost everything they give ft/lbs and newton meters for. They only use in/lbs for things that the torque spec is so small that you can't use a normal torque wrench on.
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Old 07-23-2013, 12:08 AM   #169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AaronGTR View Post
Just fyi, my service manual says 14 ft/lbs plus 30 degrees. That might be close to 168 in/lbs if you do the conversion. They don't use in/lbs for much in my manual though. Almost everything they give ft/lbs and newton meters for. They only use in/lbs for things that the torque spec is so small that you can't use a normal torque wrench on.
14(ft/lbs) * 12(in/ft) = 168(in/lbs)
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Old 08-10-2013, 05:32 PM   #170
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So I've got my Heads off the engine, replacing the head gaskets, and the head bolts, have what looks like liberal amounts of graphite squirted in their holes.

The powder is in all of the holes, some more than others, and was completely dry when I removed the bolts.

Should I shopvac out the powder? And if so, do I need squirt graphite back into the holes with the new Head Bolts?
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Old 08-12-2013, 08:18 PM   #171
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The new heads bolts should have thread locker applied already so you need to remove the graphite
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Old 08-12-2013, 09:28 PM   #172
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The new heads bolts should have thread locker applied already so you need to remove the graphite
Thanks!
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Old 09-27-2016, 08:12 AM   #173
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Ok, I know this a very old thread, but hopefully I can still get an answer by reactivating it. I am currently going through the LIM and head gasket change on my 2001 Grand Am GT 3400. Everything went smooth all the way through getting to the LIMs and then I was also able to successfully remove the exhaust cross pipe and front exhaust manifold on my way to getting the heads off. The rear exhaust manifold, however, has been a different story. The bolts that hold the heat shield in place are so corroded, that none of my sockets/wrenches will fit. If I use the proper size (can't remember at the moment what that is), it slips. If I try the next size smaller, I can't get it on at all. I have also tried the closest standard sizes (i.e. non metric) in hopes one of them could get a snug fit. I spent 2 hours just on the one that I could actually access easiest and couldn't even come close to removing it. Of course, even if I could, I would have no chance at the more difficult to access ones.

My next thought was that maybe I could just leave the exhaust manifold on the head. It looks I could easily pull it off as one piece and the try to disassemble on a work bench. I figured I could remove the bolts holding the manifold to the down pipe as described and seen in the picture in step 33a. Well, ran into the same problem with those bolts. The bolt heads are too corroded to get a good wrench fit.

Does anyone have any recommendations? I am a newbie with this stuff, so maybe there is some trick to this that everyone knows but me. Also, I remember reading something somewhere a while ago when trying to get easier access to the rear spark plugs that is possible to remove a motor mount somewhere and tilt the engine forwards. I will look into this, but does anyone know if I will be able to tilt it forward enough to get any easier access at these bolts at least?

Last edited by valley_man0505; 09-27-2016 at 08:14 AM.
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Old 09-27-2016, 11:02 PM   #174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valley_man0505 View Post
Also, I remember reading something somewhere a while ago when trying to get easier access to the rear spark plugs that is possible to remove a motor mount somewhere and tilt the engine forwards. I will look into this, but does anyone know if I will be able to tilt it forward enough to get any easier access at these bolts at least?
I don't know about this tilt the motor but just taking the coil packs off and maybe bracket should lend you plenty of room for the spark plugs, however I'm assuming you want this room for the rear exhaust manifold.

As for the stuck bolts. Whenever you work on exhausts or possibly rusty areas hit the bolts days in advance with some penetrating oil. Use heat(heat the surface the bolt is in not the bolt itself, you want to use heat to expand the threads not expand the bolt). If stripping occurs then you can use back out sockets(reversed threads in a socket that you hammer on the rounded off head and then lefty loosey out). Or if accessible enough use some channel locks on the bolt head.

As far as your situation. Cut the down pipe(Angle grinder or sawzall) and plan on getting a new one( or maybe unbolt it past the CAT if that isn't too rusted ) and then unbolt the head and pull the exhaust out with the head. Then bench top work it.

Good Luck!
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Old 09-28-2016, 12:53 PM   #175
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Thanks for the input. Yes, it is easy enough to get access to the rear spark plugs by removing coil pack, etc. However, as you mentioned, I am concerned with the rear exhaust manifold and was just wondering if this same tilt the motor trick would help with this.

However, after a 3 night battle, I was finally able to get ONE of the two down pipe bolts off last night. I had been hitting that one pretty regularly with penetrating oil and it finally broke loose. This is partly because I finally crawled under the car and went at it from the bottom with a breaker bar and every extension that I owned and got better leverage. I was also able to get a better grip with a deep socket from the bottom rather than a wrench from the top. I think I will eventually be successful with the second one as well. This one is very hard to reach with the penetrating oil, however, so it may take a little more effort.

I guess this brings me back to my other question--is there any reason I can't remove the rear head with the manifold still attached? It seems like it would be a lot easier this way, which is why I am wondering why every walk-thru I have seen always mentions removing it before pulling the head.
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Old 09-28-2016, 06:18 PM   #176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valley_man0505 View Post
Thanks for the input. Yes, it is easy enough to get access to the rear spark plugs by removing coil pack, etc. However, as you mentioned, I am concerned with the rear exhaust manifold and was just wondering if this same tilt the motor trick would help with this.
Got nothing for you as I haven't hear of this "trick"

Quote:
Originally Posted by valley_man0505 View Post
However, after a 3 night battle, I was finally able to get ONE of the two down pipe bolts off last night. I had been hitting that one pretty regularly with penetrating oil and it finally broke loose. This is partly because I finally crawled under the car and went at it from the bottom with a breaker bar and every extension that I owned and got better leverage. I was also able to get a better grip with a deep socket from the bottom rather than a wrench from the top. I think I will eventually be successful with the second one as well. This one is very hard to reach with the penetrating oil, however, so it may take a little more effort.
Awesome now get that other one and you will be golden

Quote:
Originally Posted by valley_man0505 View Post
I guess this brings me back to my other question--is there any reason I can't remove the rear head with the manifold still attached? It seems like it would be a lot easier this way, which is why I am wondering why every walk-thru I have seen always mentions removing it before pulling the head.
As I mentioned I believe you should be able to, I personally have never done it but I don't see why you couldn't. Best of luck and keep us....or me ... posted on your progress.
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Old 09-29-2016, 08:45 AM   #177
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Victory! Well, sort of. I was able to get the other bolt off the down pipe last night and removed both heads. Removing the rear head with the exhaust manifold still attached turned out to be VERY easy to do. Much easier than trying to remove the hard to access, rusted exhaust bolts first.

I also believe I found a breach in the front head gasket that is likely what has been causing my problems. Now, my next problem.... I made a rookie mistake when removing the LIM. There were bunch of weird seeds from some type of tree in between the upper and lower manifolds. No idea how they ever could have gotten there, but they were everywhere. Well, instead of cleaning them off the top of the LIM before removing, I figured I'd just do that when I clean everything up later before reassembling. I didn't think there would be any areas under there that I wouldn't be accessing later, so I didn't think too much of it. Well, it turns out a couple of them spilled into the holes just above the camshafts. Now, I have get into that compartment to remove those.
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Old 09-30-2016, 07:52 PM   #178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valley_man0505 View Post
Removing the rear head with the exhaust manifold still attached turned out to be VERY easy to do. Much easier than trying to remove the hard to access, rusted exhaust bolts first.
Next time, leave the manifold attached to the down pipe. Break off the exhaust mani->head bolts if necessary -- that's the machine shop's problem. Come reassembly time, getting under the car sucks, and getting the stupid pipe back on the manifold is usually unpleasant.

Quote:
Originally Posted by valley_man0505 View Post
There were bunch of weird seeds from some type of tree in between the upper and lower manifolds. No idea how they ever could have gotten there, but they were everywhere.
A mouse put them there. Check all the injector wiring, CMP wiring and whatever else is around there for damage when it goes back together.

Quote:
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Well, it turns out a couple of them spilled into the holes just above the camshafts. Now, I have get into that compartment to remove those.
The LA1 has only one camshaft. If detritus fell through 'holes just above the camshafts [sic],' said detritus is now in the crankcase -- that's not a 'compartment' one can clean out readily. If the heads are off, the engine is getting an oil change immediately upon reassembly; most likely the junk will come out with the old oil. If not, the oil pump pickup screen will catch it and it will come out eventually.
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Old 03-03-2017, 11:54 PM   #179
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[quote=angrysk8r;881390]making sure you have them lined up correctly. After doing this place the 16 new head bolts into their respective spots on the heads (there should be 2 different sizes of head bolts, the shorter ones are the inner most bolts while the longer are the bolts closer to the exhaust manifold), now tighten the hand tight. After that, using the ft/lbs torque wrench, torque the head bolts to 37ft/lbs in this sequence (same sequence for the rear and front heads)
6 2 3 7
5 1 4 8


According to the Haynes manual this is the correct sequence for 2001 and older but the sequence is different for 2002 and later.
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