brake pad review thread

[aleroboy]

could somone make this a sticky?

This is for review on pads you have tried or want info on.

stock pads: seem to work well but suck after they get hot

Performance friction: good at first but horible in cold weather. also I've noticed as they wear the stopping power decreases quickly.

what has everyone else tried?
what is the best pad you have used, for street and/or for track?

[AaronGTR]

EBC green stuff pads front and rear.

Good stopping power and decent wear. Resist's fading much more than stock pads, but can still be easily over heated if pressed too hard (especially stopping from high speeds ). Front pads make a lot of dust, and squeel a lot too (not sure if it's because of the pad or my brakes).

Overall, a good street pad for aggressive driving. Not quite up to track use, but you could step up to the EBC red stuff pads for that.

[iceman]

I have EBC Greenstuff pads w/ drilled rotors. So far so good. They are a little loud but nothing I can't deal with. Stopping power is great, I've (unfortunately) had to floor the brakes recently and they stopped on a dime. Can't tell you about break dust, my wheels are black.. :/

[VaGT]

I have EBC pads now...

Stopping power is GREAT. However, DO NOT buy these pads unless you plan on buying premium rotors such as those from EBC or Powerslot. I (and someone else on this forum) have major warping issues with these pads and the Brembo OEM Replacements. Mine have warped twice. Each time after just 1,000-1,500 miles. ...and I am easy on the brakes. I got into that habit because of the stock POS's.

Another thing on the EBC's. DOn't buy them if you think they won't dust much - they dust like crazy.


I have PF CM pads on top of my fridge and Powerslot rotors on the way to be delivered tomorrow.

[Brendon]

Originally posted by VaGT

I have PF CM pads on top of my fridge and Powerslot rotors on the way to be delivered tomorrow.

Be sure to tell how you feel the EBC's stack up to the PF once you've broken your new pads in!

[aleroboy]

looks like green stuff for my next brake job
next Q...
has anyone had problems getting powerslots turned?

[AaronGTR]

You can't turn powerslots. They won't turn correctly because of the slots, and it would take off the plating that keeps them from rusting. Besides, if you warp them you should just buy new ones. Turning rotors makes them thinner and they'll just over heat quicker and warp again.

[aleroboy]

Originally posted by AaronGTR
You can't turn powerslots. They won't turn correctly because of the slots, and it would take off the plating that keeps them from rusting. Besides, if you warp them you should just buy new ones. Turning rotors makes them thinner and they'll just over heat quicker and warp again.

Yeah but when you get new pads you have to resurface the rotors for proper ware. Otherwise brake pads last about 6 months.
The coating wears off the powerslots as soon as the pad goes arround once. Its only left on the edges and in the center
hardly any is left on the face anyway.
it the rotors are nto warped you only need .001 or so to clean them so thickness is barely effected.
I also thought I remember reading they were turnable.
what a waste of cash if they are not turnable

[Green99GT]

i work at advance....i can tell you now the "silver series" suck really bad...last about 8-12 month....but the bendix seem to hold up really well....thats what i will be getting for mine here really soon.

[UNCTYPE-S]

not my experience but my buddies. he has an 02 cavy with cross driller rotors and ebc green stuff and they lasted like 2 months. he got them replaced today. the brake guy said the rotors were torn and the pads didnt help much either.

my buddy is ****ed and is going to write a letter or call tirerack.com and see if he can get his money back or something, cause they only lasted 2 months.

[aleroboy]

ok I'm trying out the raybestos quiet stop pads.
also... I had my powerslots resurfaced.
powerslot said it would be ok but you dont want to take more than 20K
we took the very minimum needed to clean the rotor up then put the crosshatch on them again

[2003GAGT]

Cutting rotors and roughing them up are different.

I've used Brake Lathes and I don't see how a power slotted or cross drilled rotor could be cut. The bit that actually does the cutting would get caught in the slot...

If you glaze the rotors you could rough the surface up with a die grinder and a wire brush attachment...

[Molson]

Originally posted by 2003GAGT
Cutting rotors and roughing them up are different.

I've used Brake Lathes and I don't see how a power slotted or cross drilled rotor could be cut. The bit that actually does the cutting would get caught in the slot...

If you glaze the rotors you could rough the surface up with a die grinder and a wire brush attachment...

yes, I use an air grinder with a 1" wheel to grind the lips off and rough the surface. My rotors have been on for 80,000 kms now, 2 sets of pads. Still work like new.

I used carquest Gold series pads.

[2003GAGT]

Originally posted by Molson
yes, I use an air grinder with a 1" wheel to grind the lips off and rough the surface. My rotors have been on for 80,000 kms now, 2 sets of pads. Still work like new.

I used carquest Gold series pads.

I've got almost 11k miles on my 03GT now so I'm waiting for my rotors to warp on me...

When they do I'm going to look into Brembo all the way around...anyone have any links?

Thanks.

[aleroboy]

Originally posted by 2003GAGT
Cutting rotors and roughing them up are different.

I've used Brake Lathes and I don't see how a power slotted or cross drilled rotor could be cut. The bit that actually does the cutting would get caught in the slot...

If you glaze the rotors you could rough the surface up with a die grinder and a wire brush attachment...

well. I just had them turned and then crosshatched
you just take less per pass and go slower
you can take as much as 20K total but only 2-3k per pass

[2003GAGT]

Originally posted by aleroboy
well. I just had them turned and then crosshatched
you just take less per pass and go slower
you can take as much as 20K total but only 2-3k per pass

I'd really have to see that to believe it...unless they have a special machine or attachment for turning those rotors.

I thought the whole idea behind cross drilling or slotting was to keep the rotors running cooler and lessen the chance of warpage?

If that's the case I don't see why you would need to cut them.

[aleroboy]

I'd take a pic and post it but frankly I dont give a crap if you belive I had them turned or not.
why the hell would I lie about something as small as that when I can prove my car made over 260hp at the wheels?

The whole point of turning rotors is to break the glaze on remove small warpege if its exzists.
you do the same on a flywheel when you get a new clutch.
they sloted rotors are actually let gasses excape under hard breaking so you maintain full contact between the pads and the rotors seriously reducing brake fade

[2003GAGT]

Originally posted by aleroboy
I'd take a pic and post it but frankly I dont give a crap if you belive I had them turned or not.
why the hell would I lie about something as small as that when I can prove my car made over 260hp at the wheels?

The whole point of turning rotors is to break the glaze on them
you do the same on a flywheel when you get a new clutch.
they sloted rotors are actually let gasses excape under hard breaking so you maintain full contact between the pads and the rotors seriously reducing brake fade

Look I'm not trying to start any internet wars here, but the point in turning rotors isnt to break the glaze on them. That's what the die grinder is for. When you take your car in for a brake inspection, they measure the runout of each rotor and that is what determines whether or not they need to be cut.

And anyone that knows what the hell they are doing will not resurface a flywheel when they get a new clutch. You always buy a new flywheel.

[aleroboy]

a die grinder?
yea thats going to cut them perfictly flat.
and yeah you can break the glaze by turning them
a very minimal amount was removed from the rotors.
if you dont resurface the rotors when you do the breaks the new pads will wear very quicky.
I learned that the hard way on my old car.

and as for getting a new flywheel with a new clutch,
I've been arround cars for about 19 years.
I also know several people who definately know what the hell they are doing and your the first person I've ever herd say that.
they build these things to be machinable down to a certan thickness.
getting a new one is a waste unless the old flywheel is damaged or out of spec from being turned.

now if your talking an aluminum flywheel that may be true but then you just replace the mating surface

[aleroboy]

Originally posted by 2003GAGT
I've got almost 11k miles on my 03GT now so I'm waiting for my rotors to warp on me...

When they do I'm going to look into Brembo all the way around...anyone have any links?

Thanks.

brembo is available at www.tirerack.com