oil change

cms834 · 09-26-2003, 03:28 AM

I was just wondering how difficult it is to get in the engine compartment to do an oil change? Is there plenty of room to do it without making the mess or is it easier to just leave it up to the shop?

Gimli · 09-26-2003, 04:30 AM

The only messy part is when you take off the oil filter. Because it has a slight angle you'll get a little bit of oil running on the engine/pan.

Maybe 100ml at most. Not really messy but if you don't like the contact of oil you shouldn't be changing it anyway

VaGT · 09-26-2003, 06:02 AM

It's easy to get to from the under the car. There's just a plastic wind shield that runs from one side to the other that you need to take off. It is held on with wing nuts.

The oil does run down a bit when taking the filter off, so just be ready with your pan... then just wipe the area off. It's not hard to do an oil change without getting any on the ground.

cms834 · 10-02-2003, 06:31 AM

thanks guys just making sure it wasn't going to be a disaster. time to go put in the amsoil 0w-30.

Molson · 10-02-2003, 07:19 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by cms834
thanks guys just making sure it wasn't going to be a disaster. time to go put in the amsoil 0w-30.

use AmsOil 5w30

cms834 · 10-03-2003, 08:58 AM

do you guys also use amsoil? It was my first time i used the series 2000 0w-30 and the engine sounds a lot smoother and quieter. heck it even got rid of that gm knock. I've had it in for about 200 miles now and am loving it. We will have to see how it holds up. If anyone wants info on it you can go to www.amsoil.com

Gimli · 10-03-2003, 11:06 AM

You really shouldn't be using 0w-30 in a GM engine, only 5w-30 and 10w-30 are within specs for these engines.

0w-30 is thinner on startup and may cause long-term problems.

1/2dolla · 10-04-2003, 12:13 PM

You have to put the car on jacks, remove the plastic cover with the 2 wing nuts then get a short filter wrench to get in there with, at the right angle there is enough room to loosen the filter. I noticed that the GM filters are on really tight. If you wait for the vehicle to cool you wont get any oil running out, only whats in the filter.

cms834 · 10-12-2003, 05:08 PM

Gimli, Anyone jump in on this if you have different info. I don't know but I have always been told and thought that you want the thinnest oil you could find for the start up that way it is freely moving the second your engine starts moving? Oil like 10w-30 for instance is a lot thicker which we all know so the engine has to warm it up to get it to start flowing freely. Like the others guys are saying your engine has to be warm to change the oil or your going to have to wait for it to come out so on start up with that stuff aren't you going to have to wait for it to move up to protect the pistons? The oils such as 10w-30 are made for warmer areas of the country: thicker oil= higher breakdown temperature. Amsoil claims that the 0w-30 will cover the extremely low temps like everyone would think being so thin but also the extremely high temps for racing. You may like looking at some of the info on there website.

Gimli · 10-12-2003, 05:39 PM

0w-30 being thinner it'll flow better on cold starts but it will also not adhere as well to the metal parts.

Amsoil can say whatever they want but the SAE parameters are the same for everybody. If the oil is too thin on warm startups it can hurt your engine just as bad as oil that too thick on cold startups.

Since the GM engines are all designed with 5w-30 and 10w-30 in mind I think you'd be better off sticking to these grades, at least until your warranty's up.

I'm very confident that Amsoil is a better oil but it'd be bad if something broke in your engine for whatever reason and you couldn't get it fixed because of the oil grade you use. Same goes for Amsoil's long-life claims. If you don't change the oil at least every time the oil life sensor goes off you're just asking for a void warranty claim.

Just my opinion though, you do whatever the hell you want

Gramp's GT · 10-12-2003, 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 1/2dolla
You have to put the car on jacks,

DO NOT GO UNDER YOUR VEHICLE WHEN IT IS ON JACKS FOR SAFETY SAKES!!!
The hardest part about changing the oil is getting under the car. How do you fit under the car?
I jacked my car up a bit and put a couple of pieces of wood under each tire (the wood is wider than the tire so it can not slip off) which gave me enough room to get under there ...I guess the belly is getting bigger as I get older. Are there other easier ways??

1/2dolla · 10-13-2003, 05:58 AM

Actually The Gm manual says its ok to use a 0w30, I also called my GM service manager. He said he uses a 50 wt oil in his Grand Am and that it will give better protection at operating temps. The only reason It says to use a 5w30 is the ave MPG looks better for the fleet. You can pretty much use what ever you want.

Quote:

Originally posted by Gimli
0w-30 being thinner it'll flow better on cold starts but it will also not adhere as well to the metal parts.

Amsoil can say whatever they want but the SAE parameters are the same for everybody. If the oil is too thin on warm startups it can hurt your engine just as bad as oil that too thick on cold startups.

Since the GM engines are all designed with 5w-30 and 10w-30 in mind I think you'd be better off sticking to these grades, at least until your warranty's up.

I'm very confident that Amsoil is a better oil but it'd be bad if something broke in your engine for whatever reason and you couldn't get it fixed because of the oil grade you use. Same goes for Amsoil's long-life claims. If you don't change the oil at least every time the oil life sensor goes off you're just asking for a void warranty claim.

Just my opinion though, you do whatever the hell you want

1/2dolla · 10-13-2003, 06:04 AM

Yeah but were young.... We dont need no stinkin safety....j/k

I have special 12000lb truck jacks I use. They are plenty safe.

Quote:

Originally posted by Gramp's GT
DO NOT GO UNDER YOUR VEHICLE WHEN IT IS ON JACKS FOR SAFETY SAKES!!!
The hardest part about changing the oil is getting under the car. How do you fit under the car?
I jacked my car up a bit and put a couple of pieces of wood under each tire (the wood is wider than the tire so it can not slip off) which gave me enough room to get under there ...I guess the belly is getting bigger as I get older. Are there other easier ways??

Gimli · 10-13-2003, 06:18 AM

Here's the Service Manual article that address the oil viscosity recommendations for a 2002 Grand Am.

If I may quote from it:
"Using oils of any viscosity other than those recommended could result in engine damage. When choosing an oil, consider the range of temperatures the vehicle will be operated in before the next oil change. Then, select the recommended oil viscosity.

SAE 5W-30 is the only viscosity grade recommended for your vehicle."

"If the temperature range is 0°F (-18°C) or above SAE 10W-30 oil which has the API Starbust symbol is acceptable if SAE 5W 30 oils is not available. Areas where the temperature falls below -20°F (-29°C), it is recommended either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or and SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for the engine at extremely low temperatures. Do not use other viscosity grade oils, such as SAE 10W-40 or SAE 20W-50 under any conditions."

You didn't mention what state Henderson is in but unless it's in Alaska I doubt that you see lower than -20 degrees temperature very often. Even then with syntethic oil 5w-30 is recommended.

I doubt that a GM service manager would ever have any problem getting warranty service on his own car, would he? Which doesn't mean the same would happen to any of us.

All I'm saying is that while you're covered by the warranty you're much better off following the written rules. Especially since you do your own oil changes, most dealers don't like when you do that, they miss out on a lot of money because of it...

jordanGT · 10-13-2003, 06:45 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by 1/2dolla
Yeah but were young.... We dont need no stinkin safety....j/k

I have special 12000lb truck jacks I use. They are plenty safe.

how 'bout we use jack stands instead? i wouldn't feel a bit safe getting under a car that's just jacked up. set 'er down on a couple jack stands, though, and i'd play board under the thing.

Dr_Kyle · 10-13-2003, 06:56 AM

One thing I'd like to add regarding warming up the engine. I was under the impression that this is to get all the loose particles mixed up in the oil so when you drain it, they all come out with it. Otherwise, they'd still be settled in the bottom of the pan. I know the drain plug is very low in the pan, but there is still about 1/4 to 1/2 inch underneath it.

Just thought I'd add it

Molson · 10-13-2003, 07:00 AM

We run Amsoil in the race car, 20W-50, been using Amsoil for years, know all about it, am a dealer too. I use Ams 5w-30, nothing else. So does our mechanics, drivers and crew. I live In central Ontario, sometimes in the winter, it can drop to -30 on occasion, and 5w30 is fine, esp the synthetic.

1/2dolla · 10-13-2003, 09:59 AM

I use stands also, they are also good

Quote:

Originally posted by jordanGT
how 'bout we use jack stands instead? i wouldn't feel a bit safe getting under a car that's just jacked up. set 'er down on a couple jack stands, though, and i'd play board under the thing.

1/2dolla · 10-13-2003, 10:03 AM

"You didn't mention what state Henderson is in but unless it's in Alaska I doubt that you see lower than -20 degrees temperature very often. Even then with syntethic oil 5w-30 is recommended."

Its in the desert, and the temp never gets far below 50* only in January I may see low 30's

2003GAGT · 10-13-2003, 12:53 PM

At 11k miles on my 03 GT I just went and switched over to Mobil 1 Full synthetic 5w30 and it runs a hell of a lot smooter and a lot of the minor noises quieted down.

09-26-2003, 03:28 AM	#1
cms834 GAGT - Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: cape cod, ma Age: 38 Posts: 30 Vehicle: 2002 GA SE1 Coupe	oil change I was just wondering how difficult it is to get in the engine compartment to do an oil change? Is there plenty of room to do it without making the mess or is it easier to just leave it up to the shop?

09-26-2003, 06:02 AM	#3
VaGT Go Steelers! Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Woodbridge, Va Age: 44 Posts: 842 Vehicle: 2001 Grand Am GT1	It's easy to get to from the under the car. There's just a plastic wind shield that runs from one side to the other that you need to take off. It is held on with wing nuts. The oil does run down a bit when taking the filter off, so just be ready with your pan... then just wipe the area off. It's not hard to do an oil change without getting any on the ground. __________________ 2001 Grand Am GT1 75th Anniversary Edition Purchased new 6/14/01

10-02-2003, 06:31 AM	#4
cms834 GAGT - Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: cape cod, ma Age: 38 Posts: 30 Vehicle: 2002 GA SE1 Coupe	true thanks guys just making sure it wasn't going to be a disaster. time to go put in the amsoil 0w-30.

10-03-2003, 08:58 AM	#6
cms834 GAGT - Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: cape cod, ma Age: 38 Posts: 30 Vehicle: 2002 GA SE1 Coupe	amsoil do you guys also use amsoil? It was my first time i used the series 2000 0w-30 and the engine sounds a lot smoother and quieter. heck it even got rid of that gm knock. I've had it in for about 200 miles now and am loving it. We will have to see how it holds up. If anyone wants info on it you can go to www.amsoil.com

10-12-2003, 05:08 PM	#9
cms834 GAGT - Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: cape cod, ma Age: 38 Posts: 30 Vehicle: 2002 GA SE1 Coupe	Isn't that what you want? Gimli, Anyone jump in on this if you have different info. I don't know but I have always been told and thought that you want the thinnest oil you could find for the start up that way it is freely moving the second your engine starts moving? Oil like 10w-30 for instance is a lot thicker which we all know so the engine has to warm it up to get it to start flowing freely. Like the others guys are saying your engine has to be warm to change the oil or your going to have to wait for it to come out so on start up with that stuff aren't you going to have to wait for it to move up to protect the pistons? The oils such as 10w-30 are made for warmer areas of the country: thicker oil= higher breakdown temperature. Amsoil claims that the 0w-30 will cover the extremely low temps like everyone would think being so thin but also the extremely high temps for racing. You may like looking at some of the info on there website.

09-26-2003, 04:30 AM	#2
Gimli GAGT - Newbie... NOT! Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Ottawa, ON Age: 44 Posts: 794 Vehicle: 2002 GAGT1 coupe	The only messy part is when you take off the oil filter. Because it has a slight angle you'll get a little bit of oil running on the engine/pan. Maybe 100ml at most. Not really messy but if you don't like the contact of oil you shouldn't be changing it anyway

10-03-2003, 11:06 AM	#7
Gimli GAGT - Newbie... NOT! Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Ottawa, ON Age: 44 Posts: 794 Vehicle: 2002 GAGT1 coupe	You really shouldn't be using 0w-30 in a GM engine, only 5w-30 and 10w-30 are within specs for these engines. 0w-30 is thinner on startup and may cause long-term problems.

10-04-2003, 12:13 PM	#8
1/2dolla GAGT - Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Henderson Posts: 157 Vehicle: 2001GT1coupe	You have to put the car on jacks, remove the plastic cover with the 2 wing nuts then get a short filter wrench to get in there with, at the right angle there is enough room to loosen the filter. I noticed that the GM filters are on really tight. If you wait for the vehicle to cool you wont get any oil running out, only whats in the filter.

10-12-2003, 05:39 PM	#10
Gimli GAGT - Newbie... NOT! Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Ottawa, ON Age: 44 Posts: 794 Vehicle: 2002 GAGT1 coupe	0w-30 being thinner it'll flow better on cold starts but it will also not adhere as well to the metal parts. Amsoil can say whatever they want but the SAE parameters are the same for everybody. If the oil is too thin on warm startups it can hurt your engine just as bad as oil that too thick on cold startups. Since the GM engines are all designed with 5w-30 and 10w-30 in mind I think you'd be better off sticking to these grades, at least until your warranty's up. I'm very confident that Amsoil is a better oil but it'd be bad if something broke in your engine for whatever reason and you couldn't get it fixed because of the oil grade you use. Same goes for Amsoil's long-life claims. If you don't change the oil at least every time the oil life sensor goes off you're just asking for a void warranty claim. Just my opinion though, you do whatever the hell you want

10-13-2003, 06:18 AM	#14
Gimli GAGT - Newbie... NOT! Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Ottawa, ON Age: 44 Posts: 794 Vehicle: 2002 GAGT1 coupe	Here's the Service Manual article that address the oil viscosity recommendations for a 2002 Grand Am. If I may quote from it: "Using oils of any viscosity other than those recommended could result in engine damage. When choosing an oil, consider the range of temperatures the vehicle will be operated in before the next oil change. Then, select the recommended oil viscosity. SAE 5W-30 is the only viscosity grade recommended for your vehicle." "If the temperature range is 0°F (-18°C) or above SAE 10W-30 oil which has the API Starbust symbol is acceptable if SAE 5W 30 oils is not available. Areas where the temperature falls below -20°F (-29°C), it is recommended either an SAE 5W-30 synthetic oil or and SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for the engine at extremely low temperatures. Do not use other viscosity grade oils, such as SAE 10W-40 or SAE 20W-50 under any conditions." You didn't mention what state Henderson is in but unless it's in Alaska I doubt that you see lower than -20 degrees temperature very often. Even then with syntethic oil 5w-30 is recommended. I doubt that a GM service manager would ever have any problem getting warranty service on his own car, would he? Which doesn't mean the same would happen to any of us. All I'm saying is that while you're covered by the warranty you're much better off following the written rules. Especially since you do your own oil changes, most dealers don't like when you do that, they miss out on a lot of money because of it...

10-13-2003, 06:56 AM	#16
Dr_Kyle Better Than Ever AKA: Doctor Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Orlando, FL Age: 40 Posts: 2,116 Vehicle: 2000 Grand Am GT1	One thing I'd like to add regarding warming up the engine. I was under the impression that this is to get all the loose particles mixed up in the oil so when you drain it, they all come out with it. Otherwise, they'd still be settled in the bottom of the pan. I know the drain plug is very low in the pan, but there is still about 1/4 to 1/2 inch underneath it. Just thought I'd add it __________________ Looking for Performance Parts? Click Here to check out Doctor Speed! Best ET: 14.664 @ 94.82 MPH Doctor Speed - Grand Am Performance Parts My Cardomain Page

10-13-2003, 07:00 AM	#17
Molson Admininadian! AKA: Jim Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Great White Norf Age: 45 Posts: 3,695 Vehicle: Duramax, C10, MKZ	We run Amsoil in the race car, 20W-50, been using Amsoil for years, know all about it, am a dealer too. I use Ams 5w-30, nothing else. So does our mechanics, drivers and crew. I live In central Ontario, sometimes in the winter, it can drop to -30 on occasion, and 5w30 is fine, esp the synthetic. __________________ Sig

10-13-2003, 10:03 AM	#19
1/2dolla GAGT - Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Henderson Posts: 157 Vehicle: 2001GT1coupe	"You didn't mention what state Henderson is in but unless it's in Alaska I doubt that you see lower than -20 degrees temperature very often. Even then with syntethic oil 5w-30 is recommended." Its in the desert, and the temp never gets far below 50* only in January I may see low 30's

10-13-2003, 12:53 PM	#20
2003GAGT Flossin Join Date: May 2003 Location: Chicago, IL Age: 37 Posts: 389 Vehicle: 03 Grand Am GT	At 11k miles on my 03 GT I just went and switched over to Mobil 1 Full synthetic 5w30 and it runs a hell of a lot smooter and a lot of the minor noises quieted down.

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