Transmission Troubles

[Kodeblue]

Just a few days ago since it got cold, I noticed that on my way to work in the morning the transmission will not go into overdrive until the car is actually warmed up. There are no problems with any gears shifting at all other then that. Anybody know what this could be?

[klc317]

Mine does that sometimes when its very cold, but it shifts into OD eventually. I think its just the computers way of getting the engine warmer quicker.

[H.O. Driver]

If the trans is not over a certain Temprature it won't liet it shift into over drive. That is why we have big debates about how big of a tranny cooler to get topics.
It also helps with the warming of the motor faster aswell.

[atc3434]

Perfectly normal. You won't get a torque converter lockup until you get a certain engine temperature. Most cars are like this.

[Blackrider]

Thats why you dont want a big Cooler in a Cold Climate

[Slim]

Yup... Mine does that too. I wondered about it at first, but noticed it only did it when the car was über cold. I've also noticed that when it's really cold, the engine is sluggish to turn over. Gotta love molasses oil. Is it too late to switch to synthetic at 30,000 kms (~18,600 miles)?

[Blackrider]

Originally posted by Slim25
Yup... Mine does that too. I wondered about it at first, but noticed it only did it when the car was über cold. I've also noticed that when it's really cold, the engine is sluggish to turn over. Gotta love molasses oil. Is it too late to switch to synthetic at 30,000 kms (~18,600 miles)?

Why is it to late?

[Slim]

Originally posted by Blackrider
Why is it to late?

From what I remember, if you switch to syntheic after too long, your engine leaks like a seive.

The seals get accustomed to the dead dinosaur oil and when you switch to synthetic, the seals throw a fit and leak like mad.

I think if you're close to 20,000 miles, you're pushing it. I plan on keeping my car for a long time, so I was tossing around switching to synthetic oil.

[Blackrider]

Originally posted by Slim25
From what I remember, if you switch to syntheic after too long, your engine leaks like a seive.

The seals get accustomed to the dead dinosaur oil and when you switch to synthetic, the seals throw a fit and leak like mad.

I think if you're close to 20,000 miles, you're pushing it. I plan on keeping my car for a long time, so I was tossing around switching to synthetic oil.

I switched at 40,000 KM and i have had no problems Since.

[Slim]

Originally posted by Blackrider
I switched at 40,000 KM and i have had no problems Since.

Cool... Good to know. Looks like my boy is getting filled with Mobil 1 next trip to the dealership.

[2002AmSE]

Actually, like atc3434 said, its torque converter lockup. If you move the shift lever to 3rd it will actually raise the tachometer even more. My engine temperature is usually 3/4 of the way between 100 and 200 when it locks in and keeps the revs at around 1200rpm at 45mph

[koolZ71]

isnt that higher rpm due to an electric choke of somesort? i could have sworn thats what it was...and once the engine warms up, the choke shuts off, and engine returns to normal rpm's

[71Z28RS]

I don't think that there is such a thing as an electric choke on efi cars. A choke did just that, it choked the incoming air out, making the fuel mixture richer. The modern computer controlled car will change your fuel mixture, but it doesn't quite work the same as it did with carbs. A carb would restrict the incoming air flow but increase idle rpm's in order to essentially run richer. That's why if you hit the gas pedal hard a few times, you could sometimes get the butterfly valve to flip back open and make the idle slow back down. But, that usually made it run like crap for the next few minutes until it warmed up. If I'm remembering right (correct me if I'm not), an efi car makes the fuel mixture richer without affecting idle throttle because it electronically controls the amount of fuel entering through the injectors. If it did increase throttle speed, you would notice it running much higher before you even put it in gear. But that's not the case with modern cars. It idles normal, but it just won't lock up the torque converter until it warms up a bit.

[atc3434]

The high idle on a cold start with fuel injection is just the computer helping to warm the engine and keep it smooth when its cold... it brings the idle down as the temperature of the motor starts to come up.

[Blackrider]

Originally posted by atc3434
The high idle on a cold start with fuel injection is just the computer helping to warm the engine and keep it smooth when its cold... it brings the idle down as the temperature of the motor starts to come up.

a Cold idel on a 3400 is about 1500 at startup then about 1100 a few second or a blip of the Trottle after

[Kodeblue]

Originally posted by Slim25
Yup... Mine does that too. I wondered about it at first, but noticed it only did it when the car was über cold. I've also noticed that when it's really cold, the engine is sluggish to turn over. Gotta love molasses oil. Is it too late to switch to synthetic at 30,000 kms (~18,600 miles)?

Thanks for all the advice people. I had no idea that this was normal or did I notice it last winter. Glad it's not tranny trouble though. Slim, I started synthetic at about 60 000 km and been running it ever since. Don't need to change the oil until the light comes on either. Here is a little study to read on Mobil 1.

[2002AmSE]

Hmmm, im confused, i dont know any other GA's that do this, but it doesnt matter if its freezing in the winter, or scorching summer heat, but my car will start and idle at 1500rpm for 2 minutes(no exageration)before going back down to idle. If I put it in gear and let go of the brake it will actually end up going 25 mph without even touching the gas, then after 2 mins it will be normal again. It's been like that since I bought the car, is this something I should get checked out for the warrenty or is this a big deal?

[atc3434]

If you've still got warentte left, get it looked at. Probably a sensor or a bad idle air control valve. Get it fixed while it doesn't cost.

[Mike Jung]

My GA does the same thing; about not going into OD right away when on the highway (Gardineer Expressway - I live right near a on-ramp) like this morning at -7C/20F until it is really warmed-up (& it takes longer when it is colder outside)

I would recommend plugging-in the block heater on a timer - it helps get the engine up to temp faster.

1500 rpm's cold start idle
I don't recall ever seeing it that high; but it doesn't get as cold here as some of the places you guys live in.
I usually wait until about 900 rpm's before driving off gently.

Mobil 1 oil, block heater, Optima battery & remote starter = for the winter time.

Originally posted by Slim25
Cool... Good to know. Looks like my boy is getting filled with Mobil 1 next trip to the dealership.

Check to see if your dealer, allows you to bring your own supplies in (like: oil & oil filter).
The dealer will charge you like $10-11Cdn per 1L bottle of Mobil 1 5W30.

Sam's Club has Mobil 1 5w30 or 10W30 by the case of 6-1L bottles.
$39.96Cdn/case -> $6.66Cdn/1L bottle

[But you need at Sam's Club an annual $45Cdn membership fee or get someone you know that has a membership to shop for you - & I don't have a membership]

[Hot_Stud18]

My car does the exact same thing, ususally the RPM's run higher until like after atleast 5-8 min. after the engine has heated up, im guessing maybe the transmission needs to be a certain temp. before it operates normally. Oh and if anyone knows how many rpm's you should not go over when the temp. needle hasn't even moved a little please let me know, usually I don't have time to let her run a few minutes after work so as soon as I start it, well maybe after like 10-15 sec I put it in drive and take off, but I try to not let the rpm's go over 1900-2000 range. Is that ok??