E-brake loose. Possible to tighten?

papiogagt · 01-10-2004, 07:51 PM

my ebrake has felt really loose lately. i pull it when parked on hills, but the car still rolls back a bit until the park grabs it. doesn't even feel like it's working at all. is there a nut or cable i can tighten somewhere to make it work better? i know on my beater accord, there is just a nut after the lever that you tighten and it tightens the e-brake (hmm.. wonder why you would need that in a beater..

)

any help would be great! thanks.

Molson · 01-10-2004, 07:58 PM

nope.. "self adjusting"

they say to set it at max 3 times in a row and it will adjust.

2002AmSE · 01-10-2004, 09:38 PM

Hmm, mine seems loose, but ive never really worried, anything more than an average driveway grade and mine will move(albeit slowly), but i figure with using park, at least its making it as if it was more flat, so im not as worried, is it easy to check brakes on an 02 with rotors? does it use the seperate 'pad' system that ive seen other people talking about

Blackrider · 01-11-2004, 12:14 AM

Mine is just Focked, IT will only engage right at the top, and it has no clamping power

LukeD · 01-11-2004, 01:08 AM

What does it mean if it doesnt self adjust? Cause I pull my ebrake all the way up (it goes up all the way to the top, further than it should) but it does nothing. I'll even, on level ground, stick it in drive and let it roll 1-2 mph then pull the ebrake and it doesnt slow at all. Nope mine hasnt self adjusted. Weird cause I took it into the dealership and the guy that checks your car in took a look and said it shouldnt pull up that far and that it needs to be adjusted, saying adjustments arnt covered under warrenty. Now my warrenty is gone and if something is broke I'm going to have to pay for it out of pocket.

Vince · 01-11-2004, 01:37 AM

Have you checked your pads, if they're gone, that's probably why they're not grabbing. I just changed my rear pads a couple of weeks ago and they were almost to the metal, only had them a year and a half on there too. My friends 98 corolla's E-brake wasn't grabbing at all. I took off the tires and the drum pads were wasted, put some new ones on and the E-brakes worked fine after that. Just something to consider.

Molson · 01-11-2004, 02:54 AM

the e-brake does not use the pads on the rear rotors. It uses a drum system inside the rotor drum assembly. There are small shoes in there.

LukeD · 01-11-2004, 03:49 PM

now if it was metel to metal would I hear something when I pulled it? Cause I hear nothing. How do I know if its the shoes?

eric99gt · 01-11-2004, 04:06 PM

also the ebrake cable may be stretched, i've had this occur on my GA.

LukeD · 01-12-2004, 12:55 AM

what do you do if its stretched? do you need a new cable? If so how hard is is to install?

Blackrider · 01-12-2004, 12:59 AM

Unless your used you E brake to stop all the time the shos wi'll be fine

eric99gt · 01-12-2004, 09:58 AM

if it's streched u need to have the cable replaced. Since i had it done under warranty i'm not sure exactly what goes in to this. Sorry

Blackrider · 01-12-2004, 10:15 AM

The cable is 23.00 US on gmpartsdirect.

LukeD · 02-04-2004, 04:40 AM

Would it be difficult for me to do myself? Do I need special tools?

kubiache · 05-13-2004, 07:12 PM

*bringing this one back...*

Self adjusting you say? I adjusted the shoes out as far as they can go without dragging, and I still get very little ebrake. It typically wouldn't bother me since I only use it now and then, but being that I've been trying to heat up the drag radials a bit at the track, it's p1ssing me off. No matter how far I yank it back, instead of doing a burnout, I just launch and feel stupid. I've tried adjusting by hitting the brakes in reverse, no luck. It only takes about 1500rpms to pull the car forward.

Any other ideas?

nomojo · 05-13-2004, 09:36 PM

I dont know about the rear disc because ive never taken it apart and looked, but if you have rear drums, there is a ratcheting mechanism which you can carefully 'ratchet' to cause the shoes to be extended further towards the drum.

As for 'self adjusting', they self adjust when you are in reverse and apply the brake pedal, but when I had a rear-drum GA I needed to do it by hand twice.

BTW, if you ratchet it with the drum off, make sure you dont over extend the shoes to the point where the drum cant go back on. It should be set so it JUST binds a very tiny tiny bit, and you would need to wiggle the drum back on as it would be tight.

hope that helps.

kubiache · 05-14-2004, 03:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nomojo

I dont know about the rear disc because ive never taken it apart and looked, but if you have rear drums, there is a ratcheting mechanism which you can carefully 'ratchet' to cause the shoes to be extended further towards the drum.

As for 'self adjusting', they self adjust when you are in reverse and apply the brake pedal, but when I had a rear-drum GA I needed to do it by hand twice.

BTW, if you ratchet it with the drum off, make sure you dont over extend the shoes to the point where the drum cant go back on. It should be set so it JUST binds a very tiny tiny bit, and you would need to wiggle the drum back on as it would be tight.

hope that helps.

I already did all that, though. The shoes are out as far as they'll go without starting to drag on the drum to much...not to mention getting the stupid drum back on. Is there a place to adjust the ebrake cable itself that I'm missing? Looking at the way it's set up it doesn't appear that there's any way to adjust the ebrake manually. If I'm wrong someone PLEASE correct me, I'd love to know how.

Blackrider · 05-14-2004, 03:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kubiache

I already did all that, though. The shoes are out as far as they'll go without starting to drag on the drum to much...not to mention getting the stupid drum back on. Is there a place to adjust the ebrake cable itself that I'm missing? Looking at the way it's set up it doesn't appear that there's any way to adjust the ebrake manually. If I'm wrong someone PLEASE correct me, I'd love to know how.

Dave I have tryed everything under the sun to get my ebrake tighttend, and the only conclusion that I can come to is that that cable is streched.

kubiache · 05-14-2004, 03:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blackrider

Dave I have tryed everything under the sun to get my ebrake tighttend, and the only conclusion that I can come to is that that cable is streched.

Well I don't like your conclusion...it means more work for me!

Hmmm....maybe I'll take a look at it again tonight and see if I can rig something up as a temp solution. I don't have time to replace the entire cable today and tomorrow is race day.

Thanks anyhoo.

nomojo · 05-17-2004, 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kubiache

I already did all that, though. The shoes are out as far as they'll go without starting to drag on the drum to much...not to mention getting the stupid drum back on. Is there a place to adjust the ebrake cable itself that I'm missing? Looking at the way it's set up it doesn't appear that there's any way to adjust the ebrake manually. If I'm wrong someone PLEASE correct me, I'd love to know how.

heh. crappy. welp, i'm stumped.

01-10-2004, 07:51 PM	#1
papiogagt m y e s c a p e . . AKA: Willie Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Papillion, NE Age: 35 Posts: 967 Vehicle: 2007 Silverado Z71	E-brake loose. Possible to tighten? my ebrake has felt really loose lately. i pull it when parked on hills, but the car still rolls back a bit until the park grabs it. doesn't even feel like it's working at all. is there a nut or cable i can tighten somewhere to make it work better? i know on my beater accord, there is just a nut after the lever that you tighten and it tightens the e-brake (hmm.. wonder why you would need that in a beater.. ) any help would be great! thanks. __________________ 2001. . . the only good year for Grand Am's. . . Tastefully Simple

01-10-2004, 07:58 PM	#2
Molson Admininadian! AKA: Jim Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Great White Norf Age: 45 Posts: 3,695 Vehicle: Duramax, C10, MKZ	nope.. "self adjusting" they say to set it at max 3 times in a row and it will adjust. __________________ Sig

01-10-2004, 09:38 PM	#3
2002AmSE 3.4L SE1 54.5k miles Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Minnesota, USA Age: 35 Posts: 506 Vehicle: White 2002 GrandAm SE1	Hmm, mine seems loose, but ive never really worried, anything more than an average driveway grade and mine will move(albeit slowly), but i figure with using park, at least its making it as if it was more flat, so im not as worried, is it easy to check brakes on an 02 with rotors? does it use the seperate 'pad' system that ive seen other people talking about __________________ White 2002 Grand Am SE1 3.4L 54,500 miles

01-11-2004, 12:14 AM	#4
Blackrider Ifeast Upon The Weak AKA: Jordie Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Victoria B.C. Age: 36 Posts: 3,048 Vehicle: 06 GTP 6Speed	Mine is just Focked, IT will only engage right at the top, and it has no clamping power __________________ 60DegreeGTP

01-11-2004, 01:08 AM	#5
LukeD Hear it scream! AKA: Luke Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: California, Bay Area Age: 36 Posts: 924 Vehicle: 1999 Grand Am GT Sedan	What does it mean if it doesnt self adjust? Cause I pull my ebrake all the way up (it goes up all the way to the top, further than it should) but it does nothing. I'll even, on level ground, stick it in drive and let it roll 1-2 mph then pull the ebrake and it doesnt slow at all. Nope mine hasnt self adjusted. Weird cause I took it into the dealership and the guy that checks your car in took a look and said it shouldnt pull up that far and that it needs to be adjusted, saying adjustments arnt covered under warrenty. Now my warrenty is gone and if something is broke I'm going to have to pay for it out of pocket. __________________ 1999 Grand Am GT1 Sedan (Bright Red) -- CAI, SLP exhaust, MSD, DHP, TOG, P&P Upper and Lower, FFWD UD Pully, 42.5# injectors and RAM AIR, EATON style!

01-11-2004, 01:37 AM	#6
Vince GAGT - Member AKA: GAGT2 Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Tx. Posts: 111 Vehicle: 2000 Grand Am GT	Have you checked your pads, if they're gone, that's probably why they're not grabbing. I just changed my rear pads a couple of weeks ago and they were almost to the metal, only had them a year and a half on there too. My friends 98 corolla's E-brake wasn't grabbing at all. I took off the tires and the drum pads were wasted, put some new ones on and the E-brakes worked fine after that. Just something to consider.

01-11-2004, 02:54 AM	#7
Molson Admininadian! AKA: Jim Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Great White Norf Age: 45 Posts: 3,695 Vehicle: Duramax, C10, MKZ	the e-brake does not use the pads on the rear rotors. It uses a drum system inside the rotor drum assembly. There are small shoes in there. __________________ Sig

01-11-2004, 03:49 PM	#8
LukeD Hear it scream! AKA: Luke Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: California, Bay Area Age: 36 Posts: 924 Vehicle: 1999 Grand Am GT Sedan	now if it was metel to metal would I hear something when I pulled it? Cause I hear nothing. How do I know if its the shoes? __________________ 1999 Grand Am GT1 Sedan (Bright Red) -- CAI, SLP exhaust, MSD, DHP, TOG, P&P Upper and Lower, FFWD UD Pully, 42.5# injectors and RAM AIR, EATON style!

01-11-2004, 04:06 PM	#9
eric99gt just go for it AKA: Eric Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Houston, TX Age: 39 Posts: 1,505 Vehicle: 1999 Grand Am GT Sedan	also the ebrake cable may be stretched, i've had this occur on my GA. __________________ Check the rig out here. http://rankmyride.com/?page=cars/view&CID=250 Check out my Interceptor digital scan tool

01-12-2004, 12:55 AM	#10
LukeD Hear it scream! AKA: Luke Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: California, Bay Area Age: 36 Posts: 924 Vehicle: 1999 Grand Am GT Sedan	what do you do if its stretched? do you need a new cable? If so how hard is is to install? __________________ 1999 Grand Am GT1 Sedan (Bright Red) -- CAI, SLP exhaust, MSD, DHP, TOG, P&P Upper and Lower, FFWD UD Pully, 42.5# injectors and RAM AIR, EATON style!

01-12-2004, 12:59 AM	#11
Blackrider Ifeast Upon The Weak AKA: Jordie Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Victoria B.C. Age: 36 Posts: 3,048 Vehicle: 06 GTP 6Speed	Unless your used you E brake to stop all the time the shos wi'll be fine __________________ 60DegreeGTP

01-12-2004, 09:58 AM	#12
eric99gt just go for it AKA: Eric Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Houston, TX Age: 39 Posts: 1,505 Vehicle: 1999 Grand Am GT Sedan	if it's streched u need to have the cable replaced. Since i had it done under warranty i'm not sure exactly what goes in to this. Sorry __________________ Check the rig out here. http://rankmyride.com/?page=cars/view&CID=250 Check out my Interceptor digital scan tool

01-12-2004, 10:15 AM	#13
Blackrider Ifeast Upon The Weak AKA: Jordie Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Victoria B.C. Age: 36 Posts: 3,048 Vehicle: 06 GTP 6Speed	The cable is 23.00 US on gmpartsdirect. __________________ 60DegreeGTP

02-04-2004, 04:40 AM	#14
LukeD Hear it scream! AKA: Luke Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: California, Bay Area Age: 36 Posts: 924 Vehicle: 1999 Grand Am GT Sedan	Would it be difficult for me to do myself? Do I need special tools? __________________ 1999 Grand Am GT1 Sedan (Bright Red) -- CAI, SLP exhaust, MSD, DHP, TOG, P&P Upper and Lower, FFWD UD Pully, 42.5# injectors and RAM AIR, EATON style!

05-13-2004, 07:12 PM	#15
kubiache Get blown Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Grand Rapids, MI Age: 42 Posts: 1,858 Vehicle: 1998 GTP	bringing this one back... Self adjusting you say? I adjusted the shoes out as far as they can go without dragging, and I still get very little ebrake. It typically wouldn't bother me since I only use it now and then, but being that I've been trying to heat up the drag radials a bit at the track, it's p1ssing me off. No matter how far I yank it back, instead of doing a burnout, I just launch and feel stupid. I've tried adjusting by hitting the brakes in reverse, no luck. It only takes about 1500rpms to pull the car forward. Any other ideas? __________________ Dave Woodward '01 GA SE --- 14.864 @ 92.61mph.....NA '98 GTP - NIC cam / P&P heads / 105# springs / Titanium retainers / INTENSE LW pushrods / CC Lifters / INTENSE TCS-300 / ZZP Poly mounts / RT 3" DP / PEMs / ZZP MPS 3.2, 3.0 / Wizair / 103s / DHP / AFC 2.2 .......still tuning

05-13-2004, 09:36 PM	#16
nomojo GAGT - Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Ontario Posts: 171 Vehicle: 2003 Grand Am GT Coupe	I dont know about the rear disc because ive never taken it apart and looked, but if you have rear drums, there is a ratcheting mechanism which you can carefully 'ratchet' to cause the shoes to be extended further towards the drum. As for 'self adjusting', they self adjust when you are in reverse and apply the brake pedal, but when I had a rear-drum GA I needed to do it by hand twice. BTW, if you ratchet it with the drum off, make sure you dont over extend the shoes to the point where the drum cant go back on. It should be set so it JUST binds a very tiny tiny bit, and you would need to wiggle the drum back on as it would be tight. hope that helps. __________________ hey, you! yeah you. im no car superstar! use of any ideas mentioned here are done so at your own risk. [/disclaimer]

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