Kappa vs. Kappa Perfects

[Mattcoool]

Kappa vs. Kappa Perfects...

Are they kappas good speakers? I need new components, and i was considering the kappa perfects but im running short on dough, what do you guys think, kappa's good? or should i wait and get perfects?

[MagiLLa]

im pretty sure the kappas are also kappa perfect's am i correct?
i only thought infinity had two mondels... kappas and references..

[AleroME]

The kappa perfect is the best out of infinity's lineup... next is the kappa's.. then the reference.

Its up to you.. right now the new kappa's are newer and improved.. the kappa perfects has been out since the old green cone kappa's ... I haven't heard any in person .. so I can't judge which is better or what not.

[AmIGrand]

The front stage speakers are the single most important componant in your system. Get the best you can afford. If you can spend less on the rears and more on the fronts, i.e., Reference in back and Perfect in front rather than Kappa all the way around, for about the same cost, than do.

[Brendon]

The advantage of the perfects is that it is only a mid range... no drivers inside the cone. Obviously this means that you'll want to have seperate tweeters (which the component set comes with), so it depends on if you want to mess with that. I personally have the Kapp 63.3's (6.5") and 693.3s (6X9) and they are excellent. Bass response isn't what it would be with a mid range, but that's the price you pay when you mount tweeters in the cone.

[AleroME]

Originally posted by Brendon
The advantage of the perfects is that it is only a mid range... no drivers inside the cone. Obviously this means that you'll want to have seperate tweeters (which the component set comes with), so it depends on if you want to mess with that. I personally have the Kapp 63.3's (6.5") and 693.3s (6X9) and they are excellent. Bass response isn't what it would be with a mid range, but that's the price you pay when you mount tweeters in the cone.

the only perfects I found are the 5 1/2 and 6 1/2 components... and their subs. Is there more?

[AmIGrand]

5.25 and 6.5 Perfects come with the seperate tweeters, it's a componant set.

Brendon - could you clarify a little bit?

[Brendon]

Originally posted by AmIGrand
Brendon - could you clarify a little bit?

On What?

[Mattcoool]

forget that, too many decisions..., ill stick with the 165k's

[AmIGrand]

Good call!

[SilverEcstasy]

Rather than start a new thread, I figured i'd just ask a few questions here.

Would a set of 5.25 or 6.25" perfect kappa components have enough power from the stock Monsoon amp? I believe the amp has 240 watts.

I am big on SQ, but I do like bass. Should I just keep the stock speaks and get a sub and amp instead? Cause interior speakers arn't exactly made for pounding bass, with the exception of components. Just having trouble on what to ask for christmas

[BumpinGT]

if your big on SQ....pick up a seperate amp...I doubt that monsoon amp pushes anywhere near that power and it will be sloppy watts. Get a nice amp that pushes out nice clean power. Theres your SQ.

[SilverEcstasy]

Originally posted by BumpinGT
if your big on SQ....pick up a seperate amp...I doubt that monsoon amp pushes anywhere near that power and it will be sloppy watts. Get a nice amp that pushes out nice clean power. Theres your SQ.

There was talk a while back with the alero guys and it was said that our amp pushes 240. But anyway, how can I hook up a new amp to my existing system, when the Monsoon is the brains of the system? I guess, what i'm asking is, how will I eliminate the monsoon amp from my system without any problems, or if at all possible, use the amp with a new aftermarket one to push a larger number when joined together?

[BumpinGT]

they monsoon isn't the brains to the system...its just an amplifier...as far as i know. The brains would be your head unit. You could take out the monsoon amp and drop a new one in there or just keep it and drop another one in. Pick up a distrobutino block and some wiring....and wire another amp.

[AmIGrand]

With the Monsoon system, there are only 3 options if you want it to sound the way it should.

Option one: replace the Monsoon headunit with an aftermarket deck, and use the correct harness and adaptors to get the sound out of the Monsoon amp and speakers. I don't really care for this option, but it works.

Option two: keep all the Monsoon stuff as it is, and add an amp and woofer (or a self amplified sub system). This is an excellent option, as the Monsoon system CAN sound very good with proper tuning.

Option three: replace the whole stinkin' thing, deck, amp, and speakers. If budget allows, this is obviously the best way to go.

The reason is simple - with the monsoon setup, niether he speakers impedance or wiring is industry standard. Therefor, replcing the Monsoon speakers and using the Monsoon amp results in the wrong frequencies to the wrong speakers and not enough enough power.

[SilverEcstasy]

Originally posted by AmIGrand
With the Monsoon system, there are only 3 options if you want it to sound the way it should.

Option one: replace the Monsoon headunit with an aftermarket deck, and use the correct harness and adaptors to get the sound out of the Monsoon amp and speakers. I don't really care for this option, but it works.

Option two: keep all the Monsoon stuff as it is, and add an amp and woofer (or a self amplified sub system). This is an excellent option, as the Monsoon system CAN sound very good with proper tuning.

Option three: replace the whole stinkin' thing, deck, amp, and speakers. If budget allows, this is obviously the best way to go.

The reason is simple - with the monsoon setup, niether he speakers impedance or wiring is industry standard. Therefor, replcing the Monsoon speakers and using the Monsoon amp results in the wrong frequencies to the wrong speakers and not enough enough power.

Yanno, I really appreciate your help. You help me out as well as everyone else so much with this audio stuff.

I was going to try option 1, considering I did that in my 94 and I stuck with my pioneer 7200 and stock speakers for 2 years of me having the car! I think I may just drop my 7200 in there for now to see how i like it. Think thats good? or no.

Option two was a consideration of mine, although with the proper amp and sub, it can get a little pricey, but what can I say, i love bass. I don't want the Basslink. I don't believe a sub in a box that small can actually sound good, but I may be wrong?

Option 3 might be I just should go for. I start my new job at nextel, once i start paying off some payments, i'm going to save up and then change everything out. Thanks alot man!

[AmIGrand]

It'd work OK in a '94, the system in that car is VERY different than your new Monsoon setup. Option 1 works way better with the normal system, the Monsoon is a pain in the tush to adapt to. I would strongly recomend option 2 if you don't want to replace everything.

The Basslink sounds very not bad for the money. Not super loud, but it'll keep up with the stock highs for nice balanced sound.

If you want more, it's all about your budget as I'm sure you know. For $400, you can get a VERY decent 300 watt amp and a single Thunder 6000 or JL W0 or something along those lines. No problem adding it to the Monsoon, and strong bass.

[SilverEcstasy]

Originally posted by AmIGrand
It'd work OK in a '94, the system in that car is VERY different than your new Monsoon setup. Option 1 works way better with the normal system, the Monsoon is a pain in the tush to adapt to. I would strongly recomend option 2 if you don't want to replace everything.

The Basslink sounds very not bad for the money. Not super loud, but it'll keep up with the stock highs for nice balanced sound.

If you want more, it's all about your budget as I'm sure you know. For $400, you can get a VERY decent 300 watt amp and a single Thunder 6000 or JL W0 or something along those lines. No problem adding it to the Monsoon, and strong bass.

Yeah someone was saying the Monsoon runs at 8 amps and a HU would run at 4 or something. I don't know, I guess adding any head unit isn't going to work well unless I just change everything out.

I may look into that sub setup. I've heard JL makes awesome subwoofers. Do you think 300watt's is enough though? If you know these groups, I love pretty much all types of techno, rap and rock and punk rock. So I guess the type of sub and the size is going to make a huge difference. 10's would sound punchy for techno and rock while the 12" would have much deeper and fuller sounding bass, right?

[AmIGrand]

The whole deal with bigger subs being better for one type and smaller being better for another is a myth. Any size woofer can be good for anything, it's a matter of the box design, crossover points, and just about everything else. Personaly, I think the bigger the better for any type of music....

300 watts is plenty unless you want to hit 140's. If you dig JL (Lord knows I of all people wouldn't talk you out of it! ) and wanna keep it simple and on a budget, get the folllowing:

CS112W0 - sealed box with one 12W0, retail is $299, most shops sell for around $219 or so. Takes up very little room, and is set up to fire rearward - as it should in our cars.

Any decent little ampwith a built in crossover will do. I like the Eclipse 36201 for this application. Bridges to about 250 watts, runs around $149 retail, very clean.

Standard 8 guage wire kit, around $40 with an RCA cable, $20 to $30 without (go without and buy the RCA seperately, you'll only need about 6 ft for this install). Stinger Hyper series are a great bang for the buck, an SHYP6 6 footer should run well under $10.

Line level converter, I like the Peripheral p-35, runs about $20.

Follow the directions or post here for help - total investment around $400, good tight loud bass.

[SilverEcstasy]

Originally posted by AmIGrand
The whole deal with bigger subs being better for one type and smaller being better for another is a myth. Any size woofer can be good for anything, it's a matter of the box design, crossover points, and just about everything else. Personaly, I think the bigger the better for any type of music....

300 watts is plenty unless you want to hit 140's. If you dig JL (Lord knows I of all people wouldn't talk you out of it! ) and wanna keep it simple and on a budget, get the folllowing:

CS112W0 - sealed box with one 12W0, retail is $299, most shops sell for around $219 or so. Takes up very little room, and is set up to fire rearward - as it should in our cars.

Any decent little ampwith a built in crossover will do. I like the Eclipse 36201 for this application. Bridges to about 250 watts, runs around $149 retail, very clean.

Standard 8 guage wire kit, around $40 with an RCA cable, $20 to $30 without (go without and buy the RCA seperately, you'll only need about 6 ft for this install). Stinger Hyper series are a great bang for the buck, an SHYP6 6 footer should run well under $10.

Line level converter, I like the Peripheral p-35, runs about $20.

Follow the directions or post here for help - total investment around $400, good tight loud bass.

Wow dude, thank you so much for your help! Couple questions real quick

1) I heard one time that someone like effed up their spoiler from having the sub firing rear ward? Totally impossible?
2) Should I do this myself? Like grab a crutchfield, order the stuff and do it myself? Or should I just go to a audio/custom shop and have them order it and professionally install it?
3) I just read a thread about STB's getting in the way of the sub box. If I get STB's one day, will this box you're referring get in the way? Or since its rear-firing, it won't be a problem?

Again thanks so much for your help. I never knew only 300 watts was alot, all these kids around here (in my area, not on gagt.com) braggin bout their 700 watt amps and 2 12" subs in boxs and bla bla bla..I also learned that advertised wattages may not always be what they actually put out. True?

EDIT: Could this sub/amp setup also be turned up to peak just for show? Not competition, but I guess what i'm trying to say is, will it have extra bump and power if I need it? i'm sure you're gonna say this is an insane amount as it is.