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#1 |
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GAGT Oldie
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Ok, here is a stumper for you guys:
My voltage gauge drops to just above 12 at idle with lights on. My setup is this: -Optima Red-Top -160 Amp alternator from gpstore -Infinity Basslink X (200 watts) -better speakers, and HU which dont make much of a difference. No dims with sub hits, but when i slow down at night it dims big time, including the interior lights. My wipers go realllll slow, and windows dont go up or down all that fast either. Again, cold weather helps my power situation, and seems to keep the amps up (befoer the car warms up). All problems go away when the car breaks about 1000 rpm (idles around 600). Any tips?
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Dave's Sexy Ride "Sul3LiME883: i'm drunk tho. i'd throw myself at a penis right now, i bet." "When you step over the line, your nuts are mine" "ArcticSun GT: u do smell dave, smell like awesomeness" |
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#2 |
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Smoke some grass
![]() Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Suburb of Monroe MI
Age: 39
Posts: 642
Vehicle: 2001 Grand Am GT Sedan
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my friend had the same thing in his beretta , it was something about a voltage regulator or something, i'm not sure, i'll ask him though
you may want to upgrade the wires to the chassis from battery, and from the alt to the battery, just a suggestion |
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#3 |
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GAGT Oldie
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Thanks for the suggestion, now how do I do that? Wire types, routing, etc...
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Dave's Sexy Ride "Sul3LiME883: i'm drunk tho. i'd throw myself at a penis right now, i bet." "When you step over the line, your nuts are mine" "ArcticSun GT: u do smell dave, smell like awesomeness" |
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#4 |
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Car Audio Guy
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Could be a voltage regulator problem, coiuld be a bad alternator, very likely a bad bettery either way.
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Las Vegas Motor Speedway (2200 ft): 15.922 @ 86.70 MPH, stock '98 2.4 / 5 speed coupe with a K&N drop in filter and crappy tires (2.3 60's). Gone now.... R.I.P. 1993 Oldsmobile Achieva SCX W41, parted out. 2005 Pacific Blue Ion Redline, competition package, set up for SCCA Stock class, Koni Yellows/Hawk pads/Powergrid endlinks/245/40/17 BFG R1's for race day... |
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#5 | |
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see ya
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Quote:
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#6 |
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GAGT Oldie
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Thanks for the tips everyone. Sounds like a bad battery to me also, but I just bought the dumb thing! Its a nice 2 month old (bought it round late sept early oct) optima red-top. WiERD!
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Dave's Sexy Ride "Sul3LiME883: i'm drunk tho. i'd throw myself at a penis right now, i bet." "When you step over the line, your nuts are mine" "ArcticSun GT: u do smell dave, smell like awesomeness" |
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#7 |
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Car Audio Guy
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It's not that the battery was likely the problem at first, but after compensating all this time, it may be damaged now. Redtops are very durable, so once the problem is found, it may be OK - but don't be surprised if it was damaged as well.
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Las Vegas Motor Speedway (2200 ft): 15.922 @ 86.70 MPH, stock '98 2.4 / 5 speed coupe with a K&N drop in filter and crappy tires (2.3 60's). Gone now.... R.I.P. 1993 Oldsmobile Achieva SCX W41, parted out. 2005 Pacific Blue Ion Redline, competition package, set up for SCCA Stock class, Koni Yellows/Hawk pads/Powergrid endlinks/245/40/17 BFG R1's for race day... |
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#8 |
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GAGT Oldie
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Im sorry for being a complete retard (ive apologized for it many times, still doesnt help), but could someone draw me a picture or take a pic of the wires i need to replace? Ive got 2.5 weeks off here for xmas, so itd be great if i could work on this. Thanks!
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Dave's Sexy Ride "Sul3LiME883: i'm drunk tho. i'd throw myself at a penis right now, i bet." "When you step over the line, your nuts are mine" "ArcticSun GT: u do smell dave, smell like awesomeness" |
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#9 | |
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see ya
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Quote:
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#10 |
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GAGT Oldie
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Well, you could just hop in the car and drive to michigan and do it for me then! Thanks for the pics!
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Dave's Sexy Ride "Sul3LiME883: i'm drunk tho. i'd throw myself at a penis right now, i bet." "When you step over the line, your nuts are mine" "ArcticSun GT: u do smell dave, smell like awesomeness" |
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#11 |
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see ya
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you know, I seriously would...Id love to get outta here for a bit, but having no license and no job is a problem...but running the wires is easy man...pics will be up shortly.
later |
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#12 |
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see ya
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#1 Disconnect negative side of battery...if you have any caps Id disconnect them too.
#2 Dont remove any stock wires, just run new ones... Remove the nut on the alt that holds the power wire there and add your new 4g(see pic)...the wires with the yellow loom is what your concerned with. |
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#13 |
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see ya
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Route the wire over to the batterys positive post.
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#14 |
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see ya
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Keep your batterys negative strap as short as possible...its also a good idea to scrape away the paint at the grounding point(I learned this the hard way)
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#15 |
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see ya
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Next unscrew the top of your fusebox and add a 4g piece to the + terminal, and run it over to the + battery post.
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#16 |
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woop woop
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Just a side note, make sure you watch where you are routing your cable going to the alternator, the exhaust stuff downthere gets real hot and *will* melt right through your wires and give you a nice dead short.
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--Seth Support GrandAmGT.com sponsors! My Picture Gallery | GoneDragRacing.com Drag Racing Photos & Videos |
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#17 |
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see ya
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and a full shot for good measure...hope this helped you out.
and what iceman said...id use some wire loom, and zip tie it to another existing loom thats already there. |
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#18 |
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stock
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Thanks alot for the posting. Nice lil tutorial. I'll be upgrading this week.
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#19 |
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see ya
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If any of you guys need a place to find good quality 4g wire and terminals, I got mine from a seller on ebay named bay-boy...hes a stinger authorized dealer...cant beat his prices or the customer service.
later |
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#20 |
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GAGT Oldie
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Awesome! Thanks a lot. Ill be working on that. One question though, and this one im sure is REAL dumb, but how the heck to i connect it to the bat post? Any ring terminals i get wont fit in there and still let the post screw into the battery. Thanks.
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Dave's Sexy Ride "Sul3LiME883: i'm drunk tho. i'd throw myself at a penis right now, i bet." "When you step over the line, your nuts are mine" "ArcticSun GT: u do smell dave, smell like awesomeness" |
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