Finally Boosted, but a few problems

[harvester45]

Well, tonight I got my turbo installed, but there seem to be a few unaccountable things going on now. I'm still on the stock tune, but the problems are there when I'm at idle as well as when I'm driving.

The oil light came on after about five minutes of fairly light driving, and the battery light came on almost right after I started the car. I switched to Mobil 1 5W30, and I'm pretty sure that the alternator is hooked up properly. Right now the car is inoberable, since I have to get some exhaust work done, but I'd like to take care of these other problems soon, so I can be driving this again soon. Does anybody have any idea as to why the oil and batt lights would be on? I checked the oil send and return lines, and they seem to be OK, as does the alternator. Has anybody else experienced this?


Thanks,

[Mike Jung]

You sure, you are getting oil pressure ?
Like that oil warning light comes on (if working properly), if you like have no/almost no oil pressure.

Pass on the Mobil 1 5W-30 oil.
& get the Mobil 1 0W-40 oil (it handles hot running turbo'd engines better).

Use an ACEA A3 rated synthetic motor oil for a turbo'd car, IMO.

[harvester45]

I don't have an oil pressure gauge, but the lines feel warm, so I assume I've got oil flowing. What would cause the drop in pressure if that is the problem (the change in oil type?)?

[SpyhunteR]

5w30 will be fine... just keep it clean..

get an oil pressure gauge...

do you have a datalogger? I'd reccommend getting one so you can see what your sensors are reading.

also a wideband will help you wonders for street tuning if you dont' have dyno access as well as being able to make sure your a/f isn't going into the danger zone...

[tejohnson]

I agree with the 5w30. What is the size of your oil feed line to the turbo? Did you put a restrictor in place? Keep in mind that if you plumbed the oil feed line from the oil pressure sender in the block, you are getting the oil supply directly from the pump. If you are not using something to restrict the oil flow to the turbo, this would be really bad for two reasons:

1. All your oil is mainly going to the turbo which may be starving the rest of the oiling system.

2. All your oil is mainly going to the turbo which may blow the seals in the turbo.

The restrictor I use is:

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=OIL

[harvester45]

Thanks for the responses. I don't have a data logger, where would I find one of those? Where can I get a wideband O2? I found one for about $200 on the net, but is that the best deal there is for one of these?

Thanks, Todd, I had bought a reducer, but not a restrictor. I've heard that changing to the 5W30 would reduce my oil pressure, but I must still be getting too much pressure to the turbo anyway. I just bought that restrictor you pointed to. I'll see if I can find a decent oil pressure gauge soon, too.

Does anybody have any idea about the battery light coming on? I'm almost positive that the alternator is hooked up correctly, and the battery is still charged.

Thanks again,

[Mike Jung]

The reason I said to pass on the Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic oil is:
There are better protecting oils out there.
Mobil 1 5W-30 now doesn't even meet ACEA A5 European Performance rating (it used to).
It just meets ACEA A1 performance standards now.

If you are going to use Mobil 1 5W-30; at aleast next time upgrade to Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 synthetic oil that meets ACEA A5 rating ; if not getting an ACEA A3 rated oil.

& don't do long extended oil change intervals with regular Mobil 1 5W-30 oil.

[botlfed]

**** European standards.......
the mobil-1 5w30 is fine

[Mike Jung]

Originally Posted by botlfed

**** European standards.......

& what is wrong with that ?

Do you like the American minimum standards better:
API SM (& ILSAC GF-4) ?

Because that really tells you alot


The Europeans have different levels of performance standard ratings for their oil like:
ACEA A1, A5, & A3.

ACEA EUROPEAN OIL SEQUENCES booklet - 2004 Revision 1 - SERVICE FILL OILS FOR
GASOLINE ENGINES
LIGHT DUTY DIESEL ENGINES
ENGINES WITH AFTER TREATMENT DEVICES and
HEAVY DUTY DIESEL ENGINES

[SpyhunteR]

Here's my opinion on oils

turbo motors 5w30 synthetic change every 1500-2500 miles..

[AaronGTR]

Here's my opinion on european oil standards.... they think their **** is better than ours and tell their bmw drivers not to change their oil for 10k and then you see stuff like that thread on the bmw forums that circulated around with the car where the engine blew because all the oil channels were plugged and the oil pan was full of sludge. F europe and their standards...

You don't arbitrarilly change oil weights just because you add a turbo to the car. The oil pressure spring and the tolerances on the rest of the engine internals are all calculated to find the oil that works best for your engine. Any good synthetic 5w30 will protect it just fine. If you're really worried about extra heat add an oil cooler.


Now for your problems. The battery light, never dealt with that myself and couldn't tell you anything with out more info. The oil light, where did you take the oil feed for the turbo? From the hole on the front of the block where the oil pressure sender is? You'll need the right restrictor like Todd said. You also need to unplug the sensor if you haven't. If it contacts anything metal it will ground out and if there's no pressure it will turn on the dash light. Personally, I'd put a T fitting in and leave the stock sensor on the engine just to be safe (make sure it's between the block and your restrictor).

[Schweppe23]

Some other things you may want to look into are:
where primary #2 comes in contact with the compressors hose i bent mine for some additional spacing as well as additional insulation wrap. I also felt that the coolant hose is a little too close for comfort so i went with a flexible ss hose from summit. Rear header runs pretty close to the fuel lines, placing an insulated sleeve couldn't hurt. Also if you remember correctly Phantom (only guy i know of with a running HP kit) burned up his trans wiring harness so u'll probably want to look into remeding that. I also put some insulation on the outside of the fuse box. Another thing i noticed with HP's crossover was that their t3 flange needed to be resurfaced or i would have def. had an exh. leak. I also had to make a couple other small changes that you shouldn't have to since your running the turbo they provided. Hope you get it all worked out, i'm sure you'll love it.

[harvester45]

Originally Posted by Schweppe23

Some other things you may want to look into are:
where primary #2 comes in contact with the compressors hose i bent mine for some additional spacing as well as additional insulation wrap. I also felt that the coolant hose is a little too close for comfort so i went with a flexible ss hose from summit. Rear header runs pretty close to the fuel lines, placing an insulated sleeve couldn't hurt. Also if you remember correctly Phantom (only guy i know of with a running HP kit) burned up his trans wiring harness so u'll probably want to look into remeding that. I also put some insulation on the outside of the fuse box. Another thing i noticed with HP's crossover was that their t3 flange needed to be resurfaced or i would have def. had an exh. leak. I also had to make a couple other small changes that you shouldn't have to since your running the turbo they provided. Hope you get it all worked out, i'm sure you'll love it.

Yeah, I moved the compressor hose the same way you mentioned, and the header melted the metallic shroud, but not the wrap underneath it. I got a little contact with the coolant line, so I pulled that back temporarily till I decide what to do with it. I didn't know that Phantom had burned up his trans wiring harness (must have been before I joined). Where is that located? You think some wrap would work on that, too? Could you take a pic of where the fuel line comes close to the rear header, I moved some lines, but I didn't look really closely at what they were (and I probably wouldn't know anyway).

A few updates:
I got the restrictor installed, the oil light is gone, the exhaust is finally hooked up (I just have to extend the connector for the upstream O2 sensor), and the car runs without stalling. The tuner is on the way, and I should have a scanner as soon as Milzy gets back to me. I believe that the problem with the battery light is the alternator, so I'm going to take it out, give it a look, and then reinstall it (and make sure all of the connections are good). It just isn't recharging the battery, and the batt died today as I moved the car to it's temporary resting place while I get some springs and tires for it.

I'll probably need a lot of help with the tune, and I'm not sure if I can become a full member on DHP's forum, so I might have to bug some of you with questions.

Thanks again for all of the help, I'm really pumped to get this car back to life (it's been out of commission for around a week now). I'll keep you all updated. I plan on continuing to run the 5W30, since it seems to work well in this application and those of others.

[Sprucegagt]

Just so you know, Powrtuner has a scanner function built into it. It is just as good if not better than an Autotap. Also how are you getting the tuner hardware new or used?

[harvester45]

I thought that the powrtuner only had the scan function built into the $500 A/D model? I don't think that's the one that I'm getting, but I'll definitely check into it. Thanks,

Harvey

[Sprucegagt]

Originally Posted by harvester45

I thought that the powrtuner only had the scan function built into the $500 A/D model? I don't think that's the one that I'm getting, but I'll definitely check into it. Thanks,

Harvey

Nope, scan function is in all models. The model with the A/D port allows you to scan other items like a wideband O2, fuel pressure transducer, etc. Basically any sensor with a 0-5 volt signal output.

[AaronGTR]

Glad to hear some of the issues are getting solved. Sounds like the restrictor solved you oil problem anyway. And yeah, all powrtuner models will also scan and datalog as well a bunch of other things like do CASE learns and reset fuel trims in real time. Actually the A/D port and support for extra models are about the only options. Everything else is included (heck of a deal).


For the fuel lines, they are hard lines where they connect to the fuel rails but then they have a section of rubber hose (to allow them to move with the engine) then they connect to hard lines that run under the car. You can see the rubber sections if you follow the lines down along the block. Those are what you want to put some insulation around.

[tejohnson]

I actually cut my fuel lines and completely moved them a bit using SS braided line and AN fittings. As for the tranny wires, they lay right over top the tranny running in line with the drive selector cable. Most definitely wanna protect that. And the IP junction block...

[harvester45]

OK, I've found the locations for the lines, etc. that need to be insulated. I installed the restrictor, and now when the turbo spools up, I hear this really high pitched whine (not like the usual rush of air, lots louder more like a jet turbine spinning or a high speed whirring). Do you think this could be restricting my oil flow too much? I should be able to take a look at my oil pressure when my powrtuner comes in this week, but do you think it is too low, and then the addition of the restrictor slows it down too much? If this does turn out to be the case, should I get a new oil pump to fix it?

[tejohnson]

Did you notice it spooling faster, or harder?

Your turbo does not need much oil at all. Too much will certainly kill it. Especially 70PSI worth of pressure.