High Reving No Movement

[RyanB]

Hello how are all you doing hope you are having a good holiday. I have a question about my wifes car. About a week ago it has been acting strange. It does not matter if the engine is warm or not. After the car is started it is put into reverse and everything seems to be fine. Then when it is put into Drive the gas petal is pushed down and the engine reved up for about 2-4 seconds then the car will jolt forward and drive off just fine. This has only been happening when the car comes to a complete stop or about 0-7 miles per hour. Could this possibly be water in the gas? I honestly hope this is not the transmission. Please if anyone has any insight on this please let me know thank you very much have a great day.

[gectek]

mine were the mounts...they were both bad, front and rear...i had torque steer like crazy also. and you may check the linkage to the trans and the parking pawl linkage to make sure the nut is tight on the lever. also make sure the switch assy hasnt moved, it should be held by 2 or 3 bolts/studs/nuts combo

mine used to take a long time to engage into drive from park or rev, here is a simple test

1. depress brake, never take foot off brake during test.
2. move shifter into drive
3. count seconds before engagement(ull feel it trust me)
4. then put in neutral then back into drive quickly pausing for 1-2 secs in neutral
5. count time til engagement again
6. report times
7. check engine mounts, frnt and rear
8 watch for excessive movement of engine when placed from park into drive or rev

tell me what u find out

[fat_albert]

Sounds like the clutch packs in the tranny are going, your looking at about $2k.

[Malaclypse]

Might need to top off the transmission fluid.

[gectek]

no the clutch packs wouldnt do that and it wont cost $2000, i can rebuild one for about $550 total, and that including what i would charge for labor, and i could have it done in a week tops. but thats just me. anyway it sounds more like something else, if it were the clutches it would slip in gear because the hydraulic pressure would still apply it, even steel on steel, but it would slip out and rev high, also check and/or change the trans fluid and filter(use the delco filter it has a better element or a wix, dont go cheapo)

[bwwelk]

While you all are talking about trannys ,, on my 01 ga/gt when you really get on it when the trans shifts it hesitates when it shifts, but just regular driving its fine , any ideas what this could be , just had the fluid and filter changed about a month ago ...

[gectek]

like only at wot it will hesitate? umm could be a few things, kinda hard to tell just from what you said, if i had some scan tool data that would be helpful. doesnt sound eletrical, possibly tcc isnt disengaging and causing a slight stumble. or maybe the mounts are weak or torn, i would do a visual first, and also check your fluid level,

to do that you have to pull the fill plug, it is on the pass side of the trans right by the extension housing you will see a 7/16 plug, pull that and see if tranny fluid comes out, if it does then your fluid level is ok. make sure you do this when the trans is off. otherwise just a good visual of the mounts, both front and rear

[Malaclypse]

You're supposed to check the trans fluid level on ANY automatic when the transmission is running. This ensures that there is the proper amount of fluid in the sump when the transmission is maintaining pressure.

[lone_wolf025]

I know that applies for trans dipsticks but does it go for the fill plug on the casing itself?

[jaketuff]

Who uses the Trickshift in their tranny???!!!!

I do! Gectek.... how many miles do you think are left in my 4t45? (Been in for 40k now).

OUT

[gectek]

depends on the service life of it, and quality of products used. i changed my tranny fluid and filter every 15-17000 miles and i got 160k miles out of mine b4 the first rebuild. and i beat the crap out of it alot at the strip and the street, but i never overloaded it to the point of it overheating. i think that is the main ingredient is heat, that is what makes the clutches go bad and what makes the tranny fluid break down and not lubricate and lose its good properties. the radiator cooler is not enough, if you have the tools, install your own trans cooler to make sure you are keeping your trans in good health.

also on the fill question, with the trans with a dipstick you are supposed to check it with the trans in gear, and you are supposed to check the fluid level of the 4t45e with the engine running, but trans n park sorry dont know what i was thinking, Malaclypse you are right, srry. and on the trick shift trans fluid, i have not tried it myself, i stick with castrol, but i have heard it is a really good fluid, havent heard any bad reviews

servie procedure
Let vehicle idle for three to five minutes with accessories off.
Apply brake
Move shift lever through all gear ranges, pausing three seconds in each range.
Place shift lever in Park. Important: Vehicle must be kept level on the hoist.
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Place oil container under fluid level screw.
Remove the fluid level screw with the engine running at idle.
Fluid level should be at the bottom of the fluid check hole. Because the transaxle operates correctly over a range of fluid levels, fluid may or may not drain out of the fluid check hole when the fluid level screw is removed. If fluid drains through the fluid check hole, this transaxle may have been overfilled. When fluid stops draining, the fluid level is correct and the fluid level screw may be installed. If fluid does not drain through the fluid check hole, the transaxle fluid level may be low. Proceed to ADDING TRANSAXLE FLUID.
Install fluid level screw. Tighten 12 N.m (106 lb in)
Lower vehicle.
Shut off engine. Adding Transaxle Fluid: With the engine running, add fluid at the vent cap location in half liter (1 pint) increments until fluid drains through the fluid check hole. Allow the fluid to finish draining through the fluid check hole.
Install fluid level screw. Tighten 12 N.m (106 lb in)
Lower vehicle.

[fat_albert]

Thats a good write up, thanks I have to do that in the spring. My friend has a 99 and to have the clutch packs changed cost him almost $2k.

[gectek]

yah well they charge alot because it takes alot to get all that done, especially removal and installation, its a major PITA. but the parts arent really bad at all, even the raybestos blue plates and the other high perf stuff, like the LSD, its only gonna cost me about $1200 total including some other parts i replaced due to normal wear, and upgraded parts to the 02 trans i am building right now, so thats a High Perf trans for less than the price of just a plain vanilla rebuild... oh yah and that is including a higher stall converter

and if anyone wants to know, yah you are building it, but will it run?...ill have press tests and hopefully dyno #s on it ver soon, ill pressure test it before i do anything, but if i get it done in time for the track season to start, ill also show before and after #s as well, and if i can get that to work, then i might overhaul a few from here that want it and need it, all High perf and the latest parts, but thats in the future

based on all that, a simple clutch pack install is nothing

[bwwelk]

Yea when Im taking off fast from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd when it shifts it acts like there is some slippage or something , cause when it shifts it will shift very slow .. When i had it to the track it did this , so like i said i had the fluid changed and it didnt change any thing .. still does it..When trans is cold it has nice hard firm shifts like it should , its just after trans has warmed up...

Originally Posted by gectek

like only at wot it will hesitate? umm could be a few things, kinda hard to tell just from what you said, if i had some scan tool data that would be helpful. doesnt sound eletrical, possibly tcc isnt disengaging and causing a slight stumble. or maybe the mounts are weak or torn, i would do a visual first, and also check your fluid level,

to do that you have to pull the fill plug, it is on the pass side of the trans right by the extension housing you will see a 7/16 plug, pull that and see if tranny fluid comes out, if it does then your fluid level is ok. make sure you do this when the trans is off. otherwise just a good visual of the mounts, both front and rear

[gectek]

well is sounds like my same deal, when you increase the line press(like when it is cold the trans does automatically) then it shifts fast but the hotter it gets the slower it shifts, especially at wot. does it take a while to engage from park...like over 1-2 seconds

[bwwelk]

Exactly .. When i move the gear selector from park to drive it takes maybe 1 to 2 sec... at most.. But like i said ,it fills like its slips when it shifts at WOT .. Is this normal with ga/gt's or should i check the mounts and fluid like u said .. Also was wondering would the aftermarket pcm from pfyc.com fix this prob.??

Originally Posted by gectek

well is sounds like my same deal, when you increase the line press(like when it is cold the trans does automatically) then it shifts fast but the hotter it gets the slower it shifts, especially at wot. does it take a while to engage from park...like over 1-2 seconds

[gectek]

def check the mounts, also does it take a long time to engage when it is hot as opposed to cold? like when the engine and trans have warmed up?

it will amplify the shift time because when you go WOT it shifts the engine hard in the mounts and causes the shift/range selector to pull on the arm and i think it makes the trans kinda go into limbo for a second causing it to delay the shift.

[bwwelk]

yea when its cold it will go into reverse or drive instantly , once warm it takes little longer 1-2 secs.. I didnt realize mounts could do this .. but if so def. cheaper than a whole trans rebuild ..

Originally Posted by gectek

def check the mounts, also does it take a long time to engage when it is hot as opposed to cold? like when the engine and trans have warmed up?

[gectek]

but also the bonded piston seals have been known to start leaking, which can cause delayed shifts due to it taking more press increase to make the piston apply

[gectek]

yah i bet u find 1 if not both the mounts are bad, and check the side mount also, its easier seen when you remove the plastic cover on the drivers side, the small plastic cover