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Old 01-18-2007, 04:59 AM   #1
bstraubGT
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Intermittent Stalling and No starting Problem

About 2 weeks ago I was driving home...doing about 35mph and the engine just died on me. No rough sputter or anything...just shut off as if I had turned the key off. I was able to wrestle it off the road. I tried to start it and it would crank but would not fire up. After about 10 minutes the car decided it wanted to start and I was able to get home fine. I've read about that Security thing but that light wasn't flashing so that wasn't it. I took it to my mechanic and he found the intake was leaking and the oil from the leak had gotten into the Camshaft and Crankshaft sensors. So I had him reseal the intake and replace both of those two sensors. Car runs good for a couple days until yesterday. I started the car, and as soon as I put it into reverse the engine died on me. It didn't start the first time but it did start the second time I tried. And then on the way home I stopped to get gas. After filling up the car it didn't want to start the first time. So I switched the key to off for a few seconds and then back to on. And here is when it got really weird...the dash lights cames on(SES, battery, etc) but the 3 or 4 dings that you usually hear did not happen and the fuel pump hum was not their either. After the key being in the on position for about 15 seconds it finally dinged those couple times and the fuel pump hummed and the car started that time. So anyone have any ideas what could be causing this?

2002 Grand AM GT1 85,000 miles
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Old 01-18-2007, 05:47 AM   #2
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Battery could be dying
Dirty battery terminal connections
Fuel pump could be dying (i vote for this one)
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Old 01-18-2007, 06:30 AM   #3
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I want to say it sounds like an ignition switch problem, but I'm not sure. You could also have a clogged fuel filter. One other thing, your camshaft and crankshaft sensors are made to be used in and around oil. I seriously doubt they were fouled from oil contamination.
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Old 01-18-2007, 06:43 AM   #4
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Ignition Switch sounds like it could be a culprit. I had the fuel filter change last august and the fuel pump has been tested. Did that becasue I was having a problem last August where I could step on the accelerator and the car wouldn't' respond and then all of the sudden it would kick in and go. Turned out to be a bad catalytic converter. Doesn't mean the fuel pump isn't dying though. In talking to my mechanic he is leaning towards either the ignition switch or the Ignition Control Module.
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Old 01-18-2007, 06:51 AM   #5
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Ussually when you have a problem with the ignition cylinder or the ignition module it trips the passlock. Since your security light isnt coming on im going to *assume* that you dont have a problem with either one of those things.

I do know that GA's and GP's are very weird when it comes to the battery and its connections. Makes the vehicles do very strange things.
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Old 01-18-2007, 07:19 AM   #6
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the numb nuts at bestbuy stripped my battery terminal once... made the wire lose, and it gave me running/starting problems
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Old 01-18-2007, 08:46 AM   #7
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It is the original battery so it has 4+ years and 85000 miles. Wouldn't cost me much to run out and buy a new one...maybe i'll do that.
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Old 01-18-2007, 08:59 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bstraubGT View Post
It is the original battery so it has 4+ years and 85000 miles. Wouldn't cost me much to run out and buy a new one...maybe i'll do that.

Now that you say its the original im leaning even more towards the battery being the culprit. Even if it isnt the battery and you replace it it wont be a waiste of money since its the original.
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Old 01-18-2007, 09:40 AM   #9
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Do the battery. Seen some crazy things with a bad battery!!
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Old 01-21-2007, 08:15 PM   #10
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I replaced the battery today...we'll see how it runs this week and i'll give you a status update. Thanks for everyone's help.

-Brad
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Old 01-21-2007, 11:21 PM   #11
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does it run then good for a while then start to maybe backfire or make bad noise, then no matter how much you hit the acc pedal it acts like its not making any power and starts to die, then totally dies
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Old 01-22-2007, 04:22 AM   #12
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Nope...doesn't do that. When it died the couple times it did...it died quick. It acted like I had turned the key off....just went right out.
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Old 01-25-2007, 03:10 PM   #13
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Ok...update...it died on the way home again. Was accelerating and the engine just cut off. Got it to the side of the road, put it in park, pulled key out put it back in and then it started right back up. So now that we know the battery wasn't the culprit what should I check next?
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Old 01-25-2007, 05:17 PM   #14
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i had similar problems with my ignition switch, right after they did the recall on my car for it i had problems exactly like yours, not saying it is the same thing but really sounds like that switch.
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Old 01-25-2007, 05:57 PM   #15
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my money says fuel pump still, but ignition sw is a close 2nd
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Old 01-26-2007, 06:48 AM   #16
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Not throwing any codes when this happens??
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Old 01-26-2007, 07:31 AM   #17
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No Check Engine lights and no codes.
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Old 01-26-2007, 07:55 AM   #18
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IT IS THE FUEL PUMP!!!!!! get the fuel pressure tested. mine did the same thing...I was evacing for a hurricane at the time mine decided to take a Sh!t
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Old 01-26-2007, 08:35 AM   #19
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How much should it cost to replace the fuel pump?
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Old 01-26-2007, 12:20 PM   #20
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fuel pump from orellys, 250, did my own install, wix fuel filter about $12. if you DIY you will save alot of money, and learn that a half tank of gas is VERY heavy, drain it first. and also relieve the fuel press, both at the schrader valve on the fuel rail, and by taking the Fuel pump relay out and running the engine, or just when it dies, crank it a few times and it should be bled off
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