Effect of extreme cold on trans?

[lone_wolf025]

Judging from the responses here I think it might be normal too. Would anyone recommend a flush or pan drop since I'm at the 30k mile mark or let it go?

[H.O. Driver]

Originally Posted by lone_wolf025

Judging from the responses here I think it might be normal too. Would anyone recommend a flush or pan drop since I'm at the 30k mile mark or let it go?

would be a good idea to flush it when its around the 36k mark and keep at it with the flushing every 36k. If you don't do it and let it go long enough you are better off keeping the fluid in there, after so long the sludge and chunks are what is keeping the damn thing together, .

As for letting it idle for a long time, it will warm up the trans fluid, not as fast as driving it or as warm as driving it will get it, but if the engine gets to full operating it will get up to 100* it just takes about a half hour, only if its warmer than sub zero tempratures.

[Sprucegagt]

I think people are noticing a combination of cold trans fluid, low tire pressure and cold wheel bearing grease.

[Exodus]

So, it is pointless to idle ones car to warm it up?
But yeah, acceleration, braking are slow and sluggish when its really cold out.
Not to mention all the rattling and squeaking and clicks, etc. that come hand in hand w/ the cold weather.

[coupe]

I dunno about my GA (dont drive it in winter) but my truck is haveing a hell of an attitude since the temp got bellow 10F.

I also have 2 shop lights in my garage that dont wanna come on ever since it got bellow 10F and they are rated for 0F.

[Mike Jung]

Originally Posted by Exodus

So, it is pointless to idle ones car to warm it up?...

No it isn't pointless; but excessive idling is.

Like you want to have flow engine oil, sometimes need heat to clear the ice on the windows, smooth out a rough cold idle, etc...


Idling excessively, causes:
- waste of gasoline
- builds-up condensation (water) & gasoline in the engine oil (which kills the additives in the engine oil faster than normal)
- etc...

[Exodus]

Originally Posted by Mike Jung

No it isn't pointless; but excessive idling is.

Like you want to have flow engine oil, sometimes need heat to clear the ice on the windows, smooth out a rough cold idle, etc...


Idling excessively, causes:
- wastes gasoline
- build condensation (water) & gasoline in the engine oil (which kills the additives in the engine oil faster than normal)
- etc...

phmm, thanks for the tip. Definitely will keep that in mind.

[Mike Jung]

Originally Posted by coupe

I dunno about my GA (dont drive it in winter) but my truck is haveing a hell of an attitude since the temp got bellow 10F...

Use a synthetic motor oil & plug in the block heater (use with a timer for 4-hours before starting, so to save using electricity).


Synthetic motor oil FTW in the winter cold conditions.

Example:
German Castrol Syntec 0W-30 synthetic motor oil (that has been used in my GA for 7-months (& in my Mom's Sunfire GT has her's in for 9-months so far) had no problems at -20°C / -4°F last night.
(Sometimes, "cheaper" quality motor oils lose their cold point cold cranking ratings by thickening up when used over time.)
It is rated to cold start flow at -40°C/F.
& doesn't freeze to about the range of -70°C/-94°F (IIRC); not that the oil would flow enough to start a vehicle.

But note:
Mobil 1 5W-30 motor still flows better (is thinner) at that temp than German Castrol Syntec 0W-30 motor oil
(Because it is a thicker oil at operating temps.)
But any colder & German Castrol 0W-30 flows better than Mobil 1 5W-30; as 0W-x is rated for cold start at -35°C/-31°F & 5W-x is rated for cold start of -30°C/-22°F (& above).

[nascarnate326]

My car shifts like poo in this weather. Its going to get warmer though.
22 on saturday!!!

[Chaos]

I'd have to agree with the cold thing.. Its been pretty darn cold here.. and My car hasn't been plugged in at all.. and its fired up.. twice the remote started didn't start it.. But went out there and it fired up.. never had a problem.. Not yet anyhow.. really hope not to.. Being from Alberta, its a bit chilly.. Maybe not AS chilly as some!! But been out sitting in -35 C for 2 days and started!! I've got 43,000 KM on it or so right now... Never had a problem at all..

[GALover]

I've noticed a little harder 1st-2nd gear shift at around the 10f range and colder if I don't warm her up. She tends to snap into 2nd gear. She does idle at 1100 rpm's on the really cold days. The state of Alaska has a plug @ 20 campaign. Plug in your vehicle at 20f or colder for 2 hours before you leave in the morning.
http://www.muni.org/healthesd/WhyPlug20F.cfm
When it's ~5f and colder the trunk creaks a little and there's a rattle in my door. I just let it idle for ~7-10 minutes and she's happy. I believe that any idling beyond the 15 minute mark is waste. In Fairbanks, at -40f/c they either don't turn the car off or plug it straight in when they perk it.

Coupe: I live in lighting. Get rid of the Fluorescents and get some HID's or halogen lamps. They aren't as temperature sensitive.

[lone_wolf025]

I've found that in these temps in Chicago if I let it idle for 5 min the coolant temp gauge reads about half way to operating temp. Though if I had a block heater I would plug it in.

[sjones419]

it is cold as f***in balls!!!!!!!

[Mike Jung]

Originally Posted by sjones419

it is cold as f***in balls!!!!!!!

Yup !!!

It was -17°C / 1°F offically at the airport this morning.
But it was -20°C / -4°F in my car (& wind chill value factor of -35°C / -31°F).

They are calling for next Sunday & Monday morning:
-21°C/-6°F & -22°C/-8°F air temperature in the mornings.

(Good thing it is my days-off )

But it has been a "warmer" winter here in Toronto

The Prairies can keep their Arctic air mass weather patterns

[iceman]

I still have an additional trans cooler, that I really should bypass in the winter, but meh, it's not nearly as cold for so long here. I let the car warm up so at least the trans cooler will pick up some warmth from the rad

[coupe]

Originally Posted by GALover

Coupe: I live in lighting. Get rid of the Fluorescents and get some HID's or halogen lamps. They aren't as temperature sensitive.

I cant get rid of them. I have 10 48" dual flourescents hanging from the ceiling and 2 arent working now that it has gotten this cold. I cant afford to upgrade the lighting plus this garage really isnt worth it, well it is, but i would wanna finish the interior if i went pro on the lighting
I at least hope its the cold thats stopping them from coming on, they are rated for 0F but they wont even come on when its 10F. The last time they worked it was ~20F.

[bballr4567]

Its been down to around 20 or so and the first 2-3 miles I drive if I warm it up or not its still a little rough. Got a ton of creaks and rattles though thanks to the worn rear shocks.

[MMGT1]

The 3400 is designed to "start and go". Just take it easy until it heats up. The pistons in the factory motor are designed to expand and seat against the cycl walls. My GM instructor said, and I quote, "Get the temp up as quickly as possible. Don't let it idle at any time if you can help it. Drive the car immediately, and keep the RPM's below 2500 until the car warms up."
My 2-cnts...Get rid of the remote starters, a block heater is ok but not necessary here. It just doesn't get cold enough. I've seen 50 below where all night your car(mostly trucks) will have to be left running in the driveway 24 hours a day or you won't be going anywhere. So, start n' go guys, just take it easy, IT IS WINTER TIME!!

[slowbird]

With my block heater and using Mobil 1...I start my car in the Morning...let the car idle for no less than 30 seconds, no more than 1 minute. ( I watch the CD track time elapse) and then I drive at a granny like pace until I see the Temp gauge move to around 1/3 of the Operating temp. (I'm very anal...I know)

In the extream cold weather I have noticed the following:

-Block heater brings the coolant temp to slightly above the first "tick" or "mark" on the temp gauge at start up.
-Other day was -30C/-21F out. The block heater was plugged in. The car started but the gauge was showing no temperature for the frist minute, and then it slowly started to move up.
-When cold, the tranny does seem to rev but not accelerate like it would if it was warmed up. (No issues when warm)
-The OD/Lockup doesn't kick in at highways speeds until a little while after the car has reached normal operating Temperature.