Amp + sub + box for $149.00 - Page 3

cardude007617 · 04-12-2007, 08:31 PM

and that site is really high on their stuff it seems....

cardude007617 · 04-12-2007, 08:34 PM

like i saw an ad for the same deck i have for like 270, i paid 220 from crutchfield even

stillriza · 04-13-2007, 05:08 AM

oh for sure.. I woulndt ever buy anything from future shop..
i go to future shop becuase u get to try out whatever it is...then buy it elsewhere.. thier instore selection on a few things is huge..and they give you an apportunity to play around with whatever item it is your looking at..then make your deciions

but price wise...ya.. stupid in the head.

MIAaron · 04-13-2007, 08:44 AM

If you're looking for something cheap and easy, get the infinity basslink I or II. The II is a newer design with more output, and the ability to add a 4 channel amp module later. The older one can be found on ebay for under $200 shipped, with the newer version II going for around $250.

cardude007617 · 04-13-2007, 11:20 AM

ya, if your looking more for bass that like adds to your music and not IS your music, one of those kinds of deals would be great.

stillriza · 04-13-2007, 04:41 PM

Some quick reading tells me that "If you have a radio with a security feature (such as a Delco-Loc system) make sure you know the reactivation code before disconnecting the negative battery terminal"

(1) I did a search on the forums but nothing comes up for 2003 model with anti-theft. Will this be an issue?

(2) The amp install kit I will purchase will come with 4g wire. In terms of selecting the fuse, if the amp manual suggests using a 50a fuse and the kit comes with a 80a fuse, will this be a problem, or can i still use it? Is it good practice to use a higher rated fuse than what is suggested?

cardude007617 · 04-13-2007, 04:59 PM

1-forget that theft thing, ive had my neg terminal off a bunch of times and no problems.
2-no clue

Pitter98 · 04-16-2007, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stillriza

(1) I did a search on the forums but nothing comes up for 2003 model with anti-theft. Will this be an issue?

(2) The amp install kit I will purchase will come with 4g wire. In terms of selecting the fuse, if the amp manual suggests using a 50a fuse and the kit comes with a 80a fuse, will this be a problem, or can i still use it? Is it good practice to use a higher rated fuse than what is suggested?

1. Never been an issue for me.

2. If you are only wiring 1 amp, put the same size fuse in the wire that is in the amp. That way there is no chance of a problem frying your amp because one of the fuses didn't pop.

stillriza · 04-16-2007, 12:01 PM

The amp I have has two 30a fuses side by side.

So does that mean I use one 30a fuse in the positive lead next to the battery or do I use one 60a fuse?

Dewitt88 · 04-16-2007, 12:12 PM

^^ Run a 80 Amp inline.

Millionbuy.com
Hifisoundconnection.com

These are both good sites.

stillriza · 04-22-2007, 08:10 PM

OK. i Just finished installing everything

Firstly I should say it was an absolute pain in the (insert profanity here) to get the 4g wire through the firewall..

So..3 bandaids later, I have everything hooked up.

I spliced from the monsoon pinouts for the rear L&R speakers and remote on.
I hooked those up to the amp. The amp has speaker inputs so I used those instead of the LOC.

I hooked the sub up in mono mode. And I grounded the cable to a bolt in the trunk and hooked the power up.

Now...everything works... it plays...But it just doesn't hit hard. The back stock speakers seem to bump more than the sub? What am I missing?

The amp is a pioneer GM5200t. At one channel it should dish out more than enouff to power the sub. (380w for the amp and 400w for the sub (max values for each))

The amp kit i used... I have 4g running from the battery to the amp with an 80a inline fuse. To ground the amp the kit had a 9gauge black cable.
And for the subs and the speaker inputs, i used 14g wire.

I have the amp set to low pass only. I read on the forums somewhere that after i hook everything up, i can turn down the bass from the headunit and have the stock speakers play only the highs and mid. The sub would be fine with only the low frequencies and would still hit. When I do it that way.. the sub doesnt even rumble. I have to have the bass set high from the HU to have the sub work.

Any ideas?

Mendoza · 04-22-2007, 08:52 PM

Quote:

I spliced from the monsoon pinouts for the rear L&R speakers and remote on.
I hooked those up to the amp. The amp has speaker inputs so I used those instead of the LOC.

Unhook right speaker input.

stillriza · 04-23-2007, 08:15 AM

I turned the gain up this morning before going to work. It seemed to be working but I can tell that it is not ground properly becuase it cuts every time i go over a bump in the road.. so I guess that solves it.

I have the sub turned towards the backseat so at times I could feel my seat rumbling with the bass.

Does it matter which way the sub is positioned in terms of sound quality?

After hooking it up to the stock hu... i realised that i want more control over the bass other than just turning it up and down from the HU.

I will install my after market head unit sometime this week. I don't really care about the chimes, so I will just go with the regular harness.

Question. My JVC hu has outputs for the sub... now....i assume i can
1.) hook those outputs to the amp inputs and leave the sub connected to the amp outputs...
2.) then just remove the rear speaker outputs that i had orignally connected from the monsoon harness.. Is this right?

p.s

Quote:

Unhook right speaker input.

what will this do other than lose the right speaker

04-12-2007, 08:31 PM	#41
cardude007617 mmm turbo boost AKA: Paul Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Milwaukee WI Age: 31 Posts: 4,870 Vehicle: 2005 WRX Sedan 5 Speed	and that site is really high on their stuff it seems.... __________________ http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2565053 -2005 World Rally Blue Subaru Impreza WRX Sedan: Tanabe Touring 3in catback, ERZ bellmouth catted downpipe, catless uppipe, SPT Pink springs, SPT short shifter, SPT intake, stereo, Cobb Accessport stage II, Prosport boost/oil temp/volt gauges, 35%, 17x8 Rota Torques, F/R strut braces It's what makes a Subaru, a Subaru.

04-12-2007, 08:34 PM	#42
cardude007617 mmm turbo boost AKA: Paul Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Milwaukee WI Age: 31 Posts: 4,870 Vehicle: 2005 WRX Sedan 5 Speed	like i saw an ad for the same deck i have for like 270, i paid 220 from crutchfield even __________________ http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2565053 -2005 World Rally Blue Subaru Impreza WRX Sedan: Tanabe Touring 3in catback, ERZ bellmouth catted downpipe, catless uppipe, SPT Pink springs, SPT short shifter, SPT intake, stereo, Cobb Accessport stage II, Prosport boost/oil temp/volt gauges, 35%, 17x8 Rota Torques, F/R strut braces It's what makes a Subaru, a Subaru.

04-13-2007, 11:20 AM	#45
cardude007617 mmm turbo boost AKA: Paul Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Milwaukee WI Age: 31 Posts: 4,870 Vehicle: 2005 WRX Sedan 5 Speed	ya, if your looking more for bass that like adds to your music and not IS your music, one of those kinds of deals would be great. __________________ http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2565053 -2005 World Rally Blue Subaru Impreza WRX Sedan: Tanabe Touring 3in catback, ERZ bellmouth catted downpipe, catless uppipe, SPT Pink springs, SPT short shifter, SPT intake, stereo, Cobb Accessport stage II, Prosport boost/oil temp/volt gauges, 35%, 17x8 Rota Torques, F/R strut braces It's what makes a Subaru, a Subaru.

04-13-2007, 04:59 PM	#47
cardude007617 mmm turbo boost AKA: Paul Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Milwaukee WI Age: 31 Posts: 4,870 Vehicle: 2005 WRX Sedan 5 Speed	1-forget that theft thing, ive had my neg terminal off a bunch of times and no problems. 2-no clue __________________ http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2565053 -2005 World Rally Blue Subaru Impreza WRX Sedan: Tanabe Touring 3in catback, ERZ bellmouth catted downpipe, catless uppipe, SPT Pink springs, SPT short shifter, SPT intake, stereo, Cobb Accessport stage II, Prosport boost/oil temp/volt gauges, 35%, 17x8 Rota Torques, F/R strut braces It's what makes a Subaru, a Subaru.

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04-13-2007, 05:08 AM	#43
stillriza does not compute AKA: Reds Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Ajax, Ontario Age: 38 Posts: 2,034 Vehicle: 00110110101	oh for sure.. I woulndt ever buy anything from future shop.. i go to future shop becuase u get to try out whatever it is...then buy it elsewhere.. thier instore selection on a few things is huge..and they give you an apportunity to play around with whatever item it is your looking at..then make your deciions but price wise...ya.. stupid in the head.

04-13-2007, 08:44 AM	#44
MIAaron GAGT - Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Shelby Township, MI Posts: 584 Vehicle: 2000 GT Coupe	If you're looking for something cheap and easy, get the infinity basslink I or II. The II is a newer design with more output, and the ability to add a 4 channel amp module later. The older one can be found on ebay for under $200 shipped, with the newer version II going for around $250.

04-13-2007, 04:41 PM	#46
stillriza does not compute AKA: Reds Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Ajax, Ontario Age: 38 Posts: 2,034 Vehicle: 00110110101	Some quick reading tells me that "If you have a radio with a security feature (such as a Delco-Loc system) make sure you know the reactivation code before disconnecting the negative battery terminal" (1) I did a search on the forums but nothing comes up for 2003 model with anti-theft. Will this be an issue? (2) The amp install kit I will purchase will come with 4g wire. In terms of selecting the fuse, if the amp manual suggests using a 50a fuse and the kit comes with a 80a fuse, will this be a problem, or can i still use it? Is it good practice to use a higher rated fuse than what is suggested?

04-16-2007, 12:01 PM	#49
stillriza does not compute AKA: Reds Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Ajax, Ontario Age: 38 Posts: 2,034 Vehicle: 00110110101	The amp I have has two 30a fuses side by side. So does that mean I use one 30a fuse in the positive lead next to the battery or do I use one 60a fuse?

04-16-2007, 12:12 PM	#50
Dewitt88 GAGT - Member AKA: Dewitt Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: fl Posts: 93 Vehicle: 1999 Grand Am Se	^^ Run a 80 Amp inline. Millionbuy.com Hifisoundconnection.com These are both good sites.

04-22-2007, 08:10 PM	#51
stillriza does not compute AKA: Reds Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Ajax, Ontario Age: 38 Posts: 2,034 Vehicle: 00110110101	OK. i Just finished installing everything Firstly I should say it was an absolute pain in the (insert profanity here) to get the 4g wire through the firewall.. So..3 bandaids later, I have everything hooked up. I spliced from the monsoon pinouts for the rear L&R speakers and remote on. I hooked those up to the amp. The amp has speaker inputs so I used those instead of the LOC. I hooked the sub up in mono mode. And I grounded the cable to a bolt in the trunk and hooked the power up. Now...everything works... it plays...But it just doesn't hit hard. The back stock speakers seem to bump more than the sub? What am I missing? The amp is a pioneer GM5200t. At one channel it should dish out more than enouff to power the sub. (380w for the amp and 400w for the sub (max values for each)) The amp kit i used... I have 4g running from the battery to the amp with an 80a inline fuse. To ground the amp the kit had a 9gauge black cable. And for the subs and the speaker inputs, i used 14g wire. I have the amp set to low pass only. I read on the forums somewhere that after i hook everything up, i can turn down the bass from the headunit and have the stock speakers play only the highs and mid. The sub would be fine with only the low frequencies and would still hit. When I do it that way.. the sub doesnt even rumble. I have to have the bass set high from the HU to have the sub work. Any ideas?