Speaker magnets close to door panel -.-

[hass]

I tried searching the posts were people installed 6.5" in their door panel, but couldn't come up with an answer.

I installed some Infinity Reference 6022s in my door panel, using the Metra kit.
[Best buy, and a local audio shop told me it's impossible to install 6 1/2"s in your door panel, and laughed at me, rofl]

but my question is that the magnets are awfully close to the door panel.
Feels like they're pulling to the door panel as well.
Does this affect sound quality much? [I would assume so, but my father said no]
When I get my sound volume up to around 25-30, it starts to get distorted and kind of fuzzy. I'm using the JVC KD-HDR1
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-2TvAfkQ...DH&i=257KDHDR1
It's 20 watt RMS...
So I'm not sure why I get bad sound quality when I turn it up.



Then.
Since I'm complaining about that.
I'm about to order some subs/amps, But I figure I might as well check to make sure everything is good =)

Amp -
Profile AP1200 200W x 2 Car Amp
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-YsFym4V...5VR4&s=0&cc=01

Subs -
Kicker Comp VR 07CVR122
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-YsFym4V...2VR2&s=0&cc=01

Box -
Q-Logic QLH-12D125 Dual 12" Hatchback Subwoofer Box
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-YsFym4V...2VR2&s=0&cc=01


Would I actually be getting full use out of the subs?
Or should I just go with 10" subs instead?
Or a better amp?
I'm not looking to be heard from a block away...
But enough to get a 'woah' factor

[jperryss]

I'm not sure if having the speaker magnet close to a metal door panel would cause sound issues. I can't see why it would, but I'm certainly not an expert. The 'fuzziness' you're hearing could be anything. Do you have some type of high-pass filter on them (HPF on your headunit or a pair of bass blockers)? If you're running those speakers full-range, they'll distort pretty easily once some bass hits them. Also, are you sure the cones aren't hitting the door panel? I had that problem with my Kappas, and it took some work to get them positioned so they wouldn't hit. If you think they're hitting, maybe try running them with the door panels off and see if you still hear the fuzziness.

As far as subs, I would go with 2 12s in a sealed box. But, since those Kicker 12s are dual 2-ohm, you'll get the most bang for your buck with a mono amp. This one will do ~250w per sub when wired to a pair of those Kicker dual-2-ohm subs. Wire them like this for a 2-ohm mono load:
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftec...hmDVC_2ohm.gif

[kuecker_dj09]

im not a big fan of JVC HUs cuz i had one that distorted easily on my speakers too. and they were underpowered.

im not a big fan of Profile amps, but ive heard they get the job done. jperryss picked a good one for ya!

[kuecker_dj09]

btw, 12s will be louder than 10. 10s will have better SQ than 12s. i would say 10s IMO.

[hass]

Originally Posted by jperryss

As far as subs, I would go with 2 12s in a sealed box. But, since those Kicker 12s are dual 2-ohm, you'll get the most bang for your buck with a mono amp. This one will do ~250w per sub when wired to a pair of those Kicker dual-2-ohm subs. Wire them like this for a 2-ohm mono load:
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftec...hmDVC_2ohm.gif

Ohh, I didn't know you can run 2 subs off a mono amp.
Thanks a ton =)

kk, So maybe go with 10" Kickers instead?
I mean, I doubt I'd ever even play them at half, ... So volume isn't a huge concern.
Just because I don't want my neighbors hating on me =P

would save me a bit of money as well. [saving $20 on subs, and $10 on box]
Thanks very much <3
I think 12" Would look nicer in the trunk though =)

I'll check out the cones when I have time, which won't be for a few days.
When I tested them before I mounted them to make sure I had them hooked up right, they sounded like total trash, haha.
Then when I got them mounted in the car, they sound awesome
Except there's a very very little noticable fuzz... But, I'll see if it's the cone hitting the panel


*edit* Oh, which would I be better off going with? 2 or 4 ohm Subs?
They're the same price...

[jperryss]

10s or 12s, it's really your call. 12s will typically play a little deeper and maybe a bit louder than the same 10s with the same amount of power. But they also take up more space. But they look cooler . From what you've said I think you'd be fine with the 10s, but I certainly don't think the 12s wouldn't sound at least as good.

FWIW, I've never noticed any 'sloppiness' with 12s, but the funny thing is people used to say the same thing about 15s. From what I've read, it typically has more to do with enclosure design than the actual woofer size.

If you go with a pair of the dual 2-ohm subs, you want a mono amp. If you decided to go with a pair of dual 4-ohm subs, you want to get a 2-channel amp instead (and the wiring will be a little different than the link I posted above). The price comes out within $10 if you use the equivalent 2-channel amp for the dual 4s. I would go with the mono amp and dual-2s myself, for simplicity's sake.

Originally Posted by hass

Ohh, I didn't know you can run 2 subs off a mono amp.
Thanks a ton =)

kk, So maybe go with 10" Kickers instead?
I mean, I doubt I'd ever even play them at half, ... So volume isn't a huge concern.
Just because I don't want my neighbors hating on me =P

would save me a bit of money as well. [saving $20 on subs, and $10 on box]
Thanks very much <3
I think 12" Would look nicer in the trunk though =)

I'll check out the cones when I have time, which won't be for a few days.
When I tested them before I mounted them to make sure I had them hooked up right, they sounded like total trash, haha.
Then when I got them mounted in the car, they sound awesome
Except there's a very very little noticable fuzz... But, I'll see if it's the cone hitting the panel


*edit* Oh, which would I be better off going with? 2 or 4 ohm Subs?
They're the same price...

[hass]

Thanks jperry <3
Now if only I can hook them up properly -.-

[jperryss]

Originally Posted by hass

Thanks jperry <3
Now if only I can hook them up properly -.-

It's easy, just use the link I posted above.

[hass]

Originally Posted by jperryss

It's easy, just use the link I posted above.

Yeah, that part is easy, it's just the amp -> battery is what I've been searching for.

and I'm hoping I don't have any power issues :]
Because on my lunch at work I'll usually hang out in my car and listen to the radio.
That's probably not such a good idea with the subs on?

Oh, what about a shut off switch on the amp?
My friend has a kill switch on his passenger side which kills the battery power to the amp when it's flipped.
He said I should get one...
Think I should?

[cardude007617]

nah, u dont need one, just dont be an ass hole in 1 place, keep moving

[jperryss]

Originally Posted by hass

Yeah, that part is easy, it's just the amp -> battery is what I've been searching for.

and I'm hoping I don't have any power issues :]
Because on my lunch at work I'll usually hang out in my car and listen to the radio.
That's probably not such a good idea with the subs on?

Oh, what about a shut off switch on the amp?
My friend has a kill switch on his passenger side which kills the battery power to the amp when it's flipped.
He said I should get one...
Think I should?

You'll need to run a dedicated power cable from the battery to the amp. Then a dedicated ground, preferably to a grounded bolt in the trunk somewhere.

The blue remote turn-on lead coming from your radio will switch the amp on/off when you turn the headunit on/off, so there's no need to run a kill switch. If you're concerned about draining the battery, then keep the volume down while the car isn't running. If you're really concerned, I guess you could run a switch IN-LINE with the remote turn-on lead. You could then leave the switch on all the time, the amp will still only turn on when the radio's on, but you could switch it off to save juice while the radio's playing.

But honesly, I've run my system for 20-30 minutes with the car off, no issues. I don't usually crank it though, just modest volume.

[hass]

Yeah, I'm usually sitting in a parking lot too, so I don't keep the radio loud at all.
Don't want someone hearing it and ending up breaking a window and stealing my stuff
Because I work there, and I have specific parking so I always have to park in the same spot day after day, haha.
and it's like... Thousands of people come in/leave every day, so =S

Yeah, hopefully the crutchfield amp guide will give me some diagrams or something. [comes free w/ amp]
But it's all online, so I probably won't need it.

[hass]

Mehhhh.
Hooked everything up.
Except it's late, so I didn't have time to figure out how to hook the positive terminal to the battery properly.
so I rigged it up just to see if it works..
Amp powers up, but no sound to the subs. :|

Now I get to look around to see how on earth to connect the Amp to the positive terminal properly =S

[cardude007617]

um all u do is get a battery terminal thing, go to best buy and ask for a clamp type one, he'll hand u a rockford fosgate one thats 13 bucks. heres wat u do:
1. Buy it
2. go home
3. open up packaging
4. pull out the little insert that makes in 8g, now u have 4g
5. put the power wire inside
6. screw it down with an allen wrench
7. make sure ur ground is good, (back seat bolt)
8. put it on the postivie battery terminal
9. tighten it up with another allen wrench
10. turn it up and ur good to go!, unless u screwed something else up

[hass]

Ah k, So the O type that I have now that came in the Amp Wiring kit will not work, correct?

[cardude007617]

um, take a picture of it or show me one online, im not sure wat u have

[Bryan]

By 'O thing' do you mean ring terminal? ..looks like this:


If so it's extremely hard to get it on without using a terminal adapter which can be had at an auto parts store for like $4.

[cardude007617]

heres what i used, works well and looks great too:
http://www.cardomain.com/item/ROCRFDB4

[hass]

Originally Posted by bryanwhitegt

By 'O thing' do you mean ring terminal? ..looks like this:


If so it's extremely hard to get it on without using a terminal adapter which can be had at an auto parts store for like $4.

Yeah, that's what I have

Originally Posted by cardude007617

heres what i used, works well and looks great too:
http://www.cardomain.com/item/ROCRFDB4

Yep, I searched that up last night.
I guess I'll go run and grab one if my car will let me -.-
Haha thanks guys <3

[hass]

Which color wire am I tapping in to in the radio? For the Rem.


Because I did the ACC line from my headunit JVC KD-HD1... [red], and the Amp stayed on even when the radio was off, and I had no sound to the subs.
Then I read on here that the ACC wire is yellow.. and now the amp doesn't power on at all... :|
Grr =S