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Old 06-14-2007, 12:54 PM   #1
cardude007617
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creaking noise while braking

hi, lately ive been hearing a creaking noise from my front driver's side tire. it seems to only make the sound when im braking and am under 10mph, so like just before you stop. any ideas?
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Old 06-14-2007, 03:13 PM   #2
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I have that same thing going on too.
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Old 06-14-2007, 03:17 PM   #3
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check out the TSB on here about the kluber lube, its the boot on the caliper, its dry...
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Old 06-14-2007, 03:43 PM   #4
cardude007617
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whoa what now? in plain noob language please haha
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Old 06-14-2007, 03:45 PM   #5
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u mean this forum?
Caliper creaking TSB?
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Old 06-14-2007, 04:08 PM   #6
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That's the one. I just purchased the fluid not too long ago, and am going to do this over the weekend after I get the trans diagnosed. I'll let you know if it fixes it.

One thing you may want to try to determine if it's your caliper.....take the wheel off (I'm hoping you know how to do this as it's pretty simple) and then remove the 2 bolts that hold the caliper in place. DOn't remove all 4 bolts, just the two that hold the caliper in place. Once they are out, pull the caliper off the rotor, remove the rear brake pad, and push the piston back (slowly, with either a C clamp or any other technique), Once the piston is pushed back, put the pad back in, put the caliper back in place, put the bolts in and tighten them, and then finally put the wheel back on. Get in the car, start it, and pump the brakes a few times. The pedal will go all the way to the floor the first time, and then get firmer each subsequent time you press it. This is normal, so don't freak and think you just broke your car. Once done this, take the car for a ride, and test the brakes. If the noise is gone, then order yourself the fluid, and when it comes in refer to the TBS thread, and lube the piston boots. If the noise is still there, you've got something else going on.

Reason I say this - from my own experience, I learned that pulling the caliper, and putting it back on after moving the piston and all fixed the noise, but it only lasted about 2 weeks before the "creaking" came back again. I've had the fluid for about a week now, just haven't had time to work on the car. I'll post my results after I do this and let you know if it worked for sure or not.

I noticed you said your a noob - if you aren't comfortable taking the car apart, don't. Take it to a mechanic, and let him do it. I would say the dealer if it's under warranty, but since your car is an 01 (it says so in your avatar) I'm guessing your warranty is up. If you don't know what your doing I'd hate to see you end up breaking the brake line or messing up the master cylinder because you drove the piston back too fast. If you attempt it, like i said just slowly and carefully push the piston back.

Good luck, let us know how you make out!
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Old 06-14-2007, 04:14 PM   #7
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would a garage charge barely anything for this kind of a thing?
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Old 06-14-2007, 08:47 PM   #8
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dont take it to a garage if you can work on it urself, all you need is the lub and a size 12 socket and a ratchet, take the bottom bolt out, swing the caliper up all the way, then apply the lube at the top of the boot right inside the groove for the sealing lip. then let it run down. wipe off any excess fluid, put it back on and drive, thats it
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Old 06-14-2007, 09:08 PM   #9
cardude007617
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i cant.....and if i get lost, i dont kow anyone i can call. ill just take it to a garage somewhere. how much would be inline for this?
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Tanabe Touring 3in catback, ERZ bellmouth catted downpipe, catless uppipe, SPT Pink springs, SPT short shifter, SPT intake, stereo, Cobb Accessport stage II, Prosport boost/oil temp/volt gauges, 35%, 17x8 Rota Torques, F/R strut braces

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Old 06-14-2007, 09:11 PM   #10
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they will prob charge it out like a brake job..., and there is no getting lost really, its just take wheel off, take bottom bolt out of caliper, turn caliper up, apply lube, put caliper back, put wheel back, maybe someone in ur area can help, say for a 6 pack or so...
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Old 06-14-2007, 09:12 PM   #11
cardude007617
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um im 17...no beer....but i nor my family doesnt know of anyone who's knows this stuff, and im having enough of a stuggle getting my rear spark plugs out
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Old 06-14-2007, 09:15 PM   #12
cardude007617
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would this fix it for a decent amount of time? or will i find myself doing this every 2 weeks
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Old 06-14-2007, 09:15 PM   #13
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okie dokie, well they will prob charge for a 1 hour brake job, itll fix it for good, i did it and have had no probs for 2 yrs
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Old 06-14-2007, 09:28 PM   #14
cardude007617
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sweet, so like 50 or 60 bucks?
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Old 06-14-2007, 09:33 PM   #15
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prob...
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Old 06-14-2007, 09:35 PM   #16
cardude007617
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wow, my dad called the dealer and they said from 100-150
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Tanabe Touring 3in catback, ERZ bellmouth catted downpipe, catless uppipe, SPT Pink springs, SPT short shifter, SPT intake, stereo, Cobb Accessport stage II, Prosport boost/oil temp/volt gauges, 35%, 17x8 Rota Torques, F/R strut braces

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Old 06-14-2007, 09:37 PM   #17
gectek
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just go to a brake shop, they can do it
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Old 06-14-2007, 09:54 PM   #18
cardude007617
mmm turbo boost
 
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brake shop??? in 53217..................
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-2005 World Rally Blue Subaru Impreza WRX Sedan:
Tanabe Touring 3in catback, ERZ bellmouth catted downpipe, catless uppipe, SPT Pink springs, SPT short shifter, SPT intake, stereo, Cobb Accessport stage II, Prosport boost/oil temp/volt gauges, 35%, 17x8 Rota Torques, F/R strut braces

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Old 06-14-2007, 09:55 PM   #19
gectek
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well if there is a dealership there has to be an area mechanic that works on cars, just go there, they might not rape u as bad...
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Old 06-14-2007, 09:58 PM   #20
cardude007617
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oh a regular servce station
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