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#21 |
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GAGT - Junkie
![]() AKA: Bryan
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Sterling Heights, MI
Age: 32
Posts: 4,269
Vehicle: '09.5 G6
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I thought the turn on was red but maybe I'm wrong. Get ahold of a test light to be easily find what wires are hot when the cars on and off.
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CarDomain (Updated 10/9) |
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#22 |
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Loser =(
![]() AKA: mike
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lancaster, NY
Posts: 458
Vehicle: 1999 Grand Am GT
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Yeah, I had it on the red one, and it was on all the time.
There actually is a blue wire like it says. and it even has a flag on it that says this is for amplifiers, .:| I'm an idiot. But it said power antennas and stuff, so it confused me I guess. I got that working. But no sound from the subs :| Going to call crutchfield and tell them I'm retarded -.- meh :s |
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#23 |
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GAGT - Junkie
![]() AKA: Bryan
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Sterling Heights, MI
Age: 32
Posts: 4,269
Vehicle: '09.5 G6
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So the amp powers on?
Are you sure you didn't mix up the positive/negatives anywhere from the subwoofers to the box to the amp? I've done that a few times.
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CarDomain (Updated 10/9) |
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#24 |
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GAGT - Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 362
Vehicle: 2003 Grand Am GT Coupe
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For the ACC wire you can tap into the WIPER fuse on the left-side fusebox (left side of the dash). That'll turn the radio on/off with the key. Looks like you got the blue remote turn-on (aka power antenna) for the amp figured out.
As far as the subs, yeah definitely verify the wiring. If you've got a +/- crossed that could cause problems. I don't remember if you're running DVC subs, but if one coil is hooked up backwards, you'll get exactly NO sound from that sub. Also, if you're running two subs and one was accidentally wired backwards, the two subs will cancel each other out (not usually 100% cancellation, but can be close) and in that case the subs will be moving but you may not hear hardly any sound. What kind of headunit do you have again? If there's a dedicated SUB output, make sure it's not switched off. Make sure the RCA cables behind the headunit didn't pop out, that's happened to me before. At the amp, make sure the RCA cables and speaker wires are secure. Check for a hi-pass/low-pass X-over switch on the amp, make sure it's not on HP. It should be on low-pass, or full-pass if your headunit is lowpassing it already. Let us know how you make out! Last edited by jperryss; 06-16-2007 at 01:01 PM. |
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#25 |
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Loser =(
![]() AKA: mike
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lancaster, NY
Posts: 458
Vehicle: 1999 Grand Am GT
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Ahh yeah... Well, I tried using another RCA output other than my radio, to make sure they were working.
Did the pop test on the subs and everything, worked fine. Only RCA Outputs I had were on my computer downstairs, .So I backed my car up to the window, and tossed the RCAs through the window... and the Subs worked... Very quiet, but worked. So I turned the bass boost and gain alll the way up, then it became somewhat decent. But in order to have a decent amount of volume from them, I have to keep the bass boost + gain + volume on the remote control all the way up. Then I hooked them back up to the radio... and got some decent sound. So the adviser I talked to said that he would recommend trying a new amp. So he ordered a replacement to come, then I'll just swap them. Not sure what exactly was going on, but it was a heck of an experience, haha. A lot of the issues came from me having the trunk open. When I closed the trunk and put the back seat up, it sounded 200 times better/louder. Thanks very much for the help guys <3 |
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#26 |
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GAGT - Member
![]() Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Montoursville, PA
Posts: 221
Vehicle: 2000 Grand Am GT Coupe
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When I sit in my car my sub sounds like it's pounding. When I am outside of it with the trunk closed you can barely hear it. Which I kind of like because my neighbors called the cops on me when I had the sub/amp in my 93 Ford Escort which didn't muffle the music at all. And when I turn it all the way up I don't get the trunk rattle like I did in the escort either. Good thing for quality cars.
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#27 |
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Loser =(
![]() AKA: mike
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lancaster, NY
Posts: 458
Vehicle: 1999 Grand Am GT
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Yeah, My trunk/license plate doesn't rattle at all.
Only problem I have now is that I took a little ride... and on the way home, It would sound like I have no subs at all. Then they would come back on, then shut off again. I assume it's overheating... I mean, I wasn't beating on them or anything. but still =S Might be because the way the amp gain is set all the way up. causing it to heat up faster or something, I dunno. But it definitely was burning hot when I got it home and took a look at it. *edit* Did a little testing. I drove by my home with someone outside listening to see if it's like, the kind you hear driving by at 3am that rattles your house, haha. By no means. It's barely audible when I drive by at half volume. [which is just about the volume in which I go deaf at] I just wish I could get more punch from the subs without having to turn up the receiver volume. Last edited by hass; 06-16-2007 at 07:36 PM. |
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#28 |
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GAGT - Member
![]() AKA: Derek
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Stanley, ND
Age: 31
Posts: 237
Vehicle: 01 GAGT
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For the subs cutting in and out, is your ground for the amp paint free and is the wire large enough? Most amps should tell you what size wire to use for power and ground. If the ground you have it on (back seat bolt?) isn't good enough, you can drill a hole and put a ground where the amp for your "Premium" system was.
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DDs - 01 GAGT, 08 G6GXP
Toys - 72 Nova, 06 Shadow Spirit |
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#29 |
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mmm turbo boost
![]() AKA: Paul
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Milwaukee WI
Age: 31
Posts: 4,870
Vehicle: 2005 WRX Sedan 5 Speed
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and having the amp gain isn't good. if you need it up that high, buy a bigger amp.
another reason for the amp cutting off is the wrong ohm load. i assume you bridged the amp, and most amps cant handle a bridge in a 2ohm load.
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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2565053 -2005 World Rally Blue Subaru Impreza WRX Sedan: Tanabe Touring 3in catback, ERZ bellmouth catted downpipe, catless uppipe, SPT Pink springs, SPT short shifter, SPT intake, stereo, Cobb Accessport stage II, Prosport boost/oil temp/volt gauges, 35%, 17x8 Rota Torques, F/R strut braces It's what makes a Subaru, a Subaru. |
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#30 |
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Loser =(
![]() AKA: mike
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lancaster, NY
Posts: 458
Vehicle: 1999 Grand Am GT
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It's overheating it looks like.
It nearly burns my hand when I put my hand on it. It will push the subs fine... Then after about 20 minutes it will cut out... Then come back on a few minutes later, then go off a few mins later, then back on... etc... But when I fold the seat down so I can get airflow on the amp [I drive with my windows open always], it doesn't have any issues cutting out. Anyone have a recommendation for a better amp? I'm using the Profile AP1000M that jperry recommended. Pushing 2 12" Kicker CVRs The ones I see take a big jump from $150 to $300 to get any improvement in power. So I'm not sure if I should be looking for a two channel amp instead of a mono for more power. I mean, this setup works fine... it's awesome... But it's just I don't like the fact it overheats and cuts out on me =( Oh, and far as the cutting out suggestions. The ground is the rear seat bold using 4gauge wire. I didn't have the premium sound, as I only have the 99GT. didn't have monsoon. Last edited by hass; 06-19-2007 at 12:00 AM. |
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#31 |
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mmm turbo boost
![]() AKA: Paul
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Milwaukee WI
Age: 31
Posts: 4,870
Vehicle: 2005 WRX Sedan 5 Speed
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maybe the ohm load is too low as well. try and turn the gain down, and compensate with turning the bass boost up. cuz u shouldnt have the gain all the way up, makes the amp work harder then it should
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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2565053 -2005 World Rally Blue Subaru Impreza WRX Sedan: Tanabe Touring 3in catback, ERZ bellmouth catted downpipe, catless uppipe, SPT Pink springs, SPT short shifter, SPT intake, stereo, Cobb Accessport stage II, Prosport boost/oil temp/volt gauges, 35%, 17x8 Rota Torques, F/R strut braces It's what makes a Subaru, a Subaru. |
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#32 |
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GAGT - Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 362
Vehicle: 2003 Grand Am GT Coupe
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Overheating
Sounds like you're running at too low of an impedance and/or your gains are way too high.
As far as the impedance.....It's been awhile, what are you running for subs again? Are they DVC 2ohm or DVC 4ohm? The AP1000M is a mono amp, hopefully you have the D2s. They should be wired like this to get optimum power. If you've got the D4s, you'll need to wire them the same way, but the amp will put out less power, since it'll be seeing a 4ohm final load, instead of 2ohm. Here's a fairly easy way to set the amp gains properly: -Find some 0db test tones that are in the range that the subwoofers can play. The higher the better (since clipping gets easier to hear as the frequency goes up) but will probably need to be 200hz or below for the subs to play properly. If you can't find them with a Google search, I can make some and email them to you tonight. You'll NEED to shut off any crossover for the sub, so the tone frequency doesn't get filtered out. Make sure the LPF on the headunit is OFF, and the x-over on the amp needs to be set to FULL (just for now, you'll change it back once you're finished adjusting the gains). -Burn them to CD (as audio, not as MP3s). Throw the disc in your car's CD player. -Turn the gain all the way down on the amp. Set your bass controls to flat (not +8 where they are now -Play the tone and slowly turn the volume up on the headunit until you hear the tone start distorting (it's clipping). Then back the volume down just a bit. At that spot on the volume knob you're getting the maximum 'clean' volume from your headunit. -Leave the volume knob at that spot and head over to the amp. The gain should still be all the way down. Slowly turn the gain knob up until you hear the tone clipping again, the back it off just a bit. (NOTE: You could maybe get away with not backing it down, since regular music will rarely hit this volume level). You know have properly set amp gains. ![]() Once you've verified the wiring and set the gains properly, try it out again. If the amp is still shutting out, there may be something wrong with it. I would call Crutchfield at that point. EDIT: Adding link to download test tones: http://www.realmofexcursion.com/downloads.htm. Last edited by jperryss; 01-20-2008 at 10:41 AM. |
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#33 |
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Loser =(
![]() AKA: mike
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lancaster, NY
Posts: 458
Vehicle: 1999 Grand Am GT
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Thanks much =) I'll give it a shot as soon as this rain lets up -.-
Oh and yeah, I have the DVC 2ohms. |
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#34 |
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mmm turbo boost
![]() AKA: Paul
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Milwaukee WI
Age: 31
Posts: 4,870
Vehicle: 2005 WRX Sedan 5 Speed
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couldnt those actually be wired to a 1ohm load?
__________________
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2565053 -2005 World Rally Blue Subaru Impreza WRX Sedan: Tanabe Touring 3in catback, ERZ bellmouth catted downpipe, catless uppipe, SPT Pink springs, SPT short shifter, SPT intake, stereo, Cobb Accessport stage II, Prosport boost/oil temp/volt gauges, 35%, 17x8 Rota Torques, F/R strut braces It's what makes a Subaru, a Subaru. |
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#35 |
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GAGT - Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 362
Vehicle: 2003 Grand Am GT Coupe
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Nope. A DVC 2ohm sub has two 2ohm voice coils. In parallel, you get 1ohm, in series you get 4 ohm. And the Profile amp (most amps, actually) can't handle a 1ohm load anyway.
A pair of DVC2s could be wired to 1/2 ohm, 2ohm, or 8ohm. |
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#36 |
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Loser =(
![]() AKA: mike
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lancaster, NY
Posts: 458
Vehicle: 1999 Grand Am GT
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I get no kick out of the subs if the gain isn't turn up -.-
I can't even hear them. I'll try again tomorrow though. I had all the LPF and stuff off and everything, it's just I can't hear anything, haha. |
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#37 |
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mmm turbo boost
![]() AKA: Paul
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Milwaukee WI
Age: 31
Posts: 4,870
Vehicle: 2005 WRX Sedan 5 Speed
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ugh, low pass filter on, bass boost up i guess for u, and put gain in the middle once
__________________
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2565053 -2005 World Rally Blue Subaru Impreza WRX Sedan: Tanabe Touring 3in catback, ERZ bellmouth catted downpipe, catless uppipe, SPT Pink springs, SPT short shifter, SPT intake, stereo, Cobb Accessport stage II, Prosport boost/oil temp/volt gauges, 35%, 17x8 Rota Torques, F/R strut braces It's what makes a Subaru, a Subaru. |
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#38 |
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mmm turbo boost
![]() AKA: Paul
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Milwaukee WI
Age: 31
Posts: 4,870
Vehicle: 2005 WRX Sedan 5 Speed
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right, i know a amp like his wouldnt handle it, i was just asking for a fact
__________________
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2565053 -2005 World Rally Blue Subaru Impreza WRX Sedan: Tanabe Touring 3in catback, ERZ bellmouth catted downpipe, catless uppipe, SPT Pink springs, SPT short shifter, SPT intake, stereo, Cobb Accessport stage II, Prosport boost/oil temp/volt gauges, 35%, 17x8 Rota Torques, F/R strut braces It's what makes a Subaru, a Subaru. |
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#39 |
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Loser =(
![]() AKA: mike
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lancaster, NY
Posts: 458
Vehicle: 1999 Grand Am GT
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What if I returned that Amp to crutchfield, and bought one of these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/PROFILE-AP2000-2...QQcmdZViewItem It's the same price, except I'd just have to pay 20 bucks shipping. It's 480W RMS to each sub, how would I not blow the subs? -.- Just not turn it up all the way or something? They're 400W RMS. Because I get no punch from the amp at all unless the gain and bass boost are up. =S Talked with crutchfield about it, and they talked me through all these tests and stuff, but nothing helps :s |
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#40 |
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GAGT - Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 362
Vehicle: 2003 Grand Am GT Coupe
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I'm not extremely confident in your problem being not enough power, but if you've checked everything else, buying a bigger amp will prove it once and for all.
If you're concerned about blowing the subs, just set the gains the way I suggested in my post above, then turn them down a little bit. With a sealed box, it may not be too much of an issue though. |
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