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Old 02-02-2003, 08:55 AM   #1
iceman
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Remote start hookup... accessory leads

Techsoft says we have TWO accessory circuits.

Acc 1 - Orange @ the ignition switch
Acc 2 - Brown @ the ignition switch

According to the GM service manual...

Orange = Ignition 3 voltage
Brown = Accessory voltage

What gives? Should I use both?
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Old 02-02-2003, 05:30 PM   #2
mi2kga
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Only hook up the orange to acc. This works i promise. Also the remote start problem sounds like a pl2 problem. Make sure the rcode out is properly biased! YOu could start the vehicle with the key then activate the remote start takeover and turn key off, this will let you know if the other connections are good! This only applies if you have rs takeover


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Old 02-02-2003, 08:39 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally posted by mi2kga
Only hook up the orange to acc. This works i promise. Also the remote start problem sounds like a pl2 problem. Make sure the rcode out is properly biased! YOu could start the vehicle with the key then activate the remote start takeover and turn key off, this will let you know if the other connections are good! This only applies if you have rs takeover


Kent
I'll try again... but earlier, I did try the remote start takeover, and it did not work. The car died when I turned the key to off.

When I hit my alarm's accessory wire, (gray one if you still have the manual), which goes to the stock orange (which there were TWO of), it only comes on when they key is in the ON position not accessory.
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Old 02-02-2003, 09:15 PM   #4
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i just did a remote start on my car. Don't know if this was all figured out already, or if this is even the problem, but there are two orange and two brown accessory wires in the car. Just use one of each, doesn't matter which one. just make sure you are using the orange to accessory, and brown to accessory 2 on your alarm. Also, the fact that your car isn't staying in pit stop mode when you kill the key sounds like possibly your ignition wires are not all hooked up.

A good way to make sure all your igntion/accessory wires are hooked up good is when they are all connected, test the other end of the wire (the harness that plugs into the alarm brain) with a multimeter. the 12 volts, igntion, ign2, accessory and accessory 2 wire should all read 12volts with the engine started. to test the igntion wire, crank the car, and while doing so, it should read around 7-8 volts.

if these are all good, then move on to double checking your PL2 bypass...

mi2kga helped me out a lot. he's the man. if you have any other questions tho, i should be able to help out as well

good luck
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Old 02-02-2003, 09:17 PM   #5
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Edit:

to test the igntion wire, crank the car, and while doing so, it should read around 7-8 volts.

should read

to test the STARTER wire, crank the car, and while doing so, it should read around 7-8 volts.
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Old 02-02-2003, 10:31 PM   #6
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Ok I lied... symptoms:

I *can* do the rs takeover... which means with the car started w/ the key, I can trigger rs takeover, turn the key to off, take it out, and the car keeps going.

cyoonak... I don't have an acc2, just ign, ign2, and acc. Kent said not to worry about the brown acc2... He's been helping me all through this (and before) and I owe him greatly....


so now on to the problem at hand... when remote starting, engine turns over, then dies. I'm thinking its a problem with the 555L. Any other ideas?? I'm going to have to hit the 555L with the DMM and make sure that it's getting the disarm negative from the alarm brain...

edit: cyoonak, where'd you get your tach sense from?? Thats the other thing I'm gonna check

Last edited by iceman; 02-02-2003 at 10:35 PM.
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Old 02-02-2003, 11:01 PM   #7
cyoonak
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that's odd though, because if the RS can go into pit stop, then that means your 555 is working correctly. otherwise, it would die the minute you turn the key off. I'm pretty sure that is working correctly, and the system is grounding it too, hence why the pitstop will work.

I got my tach wire off of an engine coil wire. I forget which color, but to test it, just hook up the DMM, and give it some gas. you should get more voltage with more RPM's

Try this: put the system into "tachless" mode, and see if it'll try consecutive starts to see if the car will stay started once it tries cranking on its preset crank times...

I found after 2 straight weeks of screwing with it, and plugging one wire after another back to back, that I had not one, but two faulty brains... :P that was the worst experience... crimestopper... stay away... DEI? all the way
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Old 02-02-2003, 11:23 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyoonak


I found after 2 straight weeks of screwing with it, and plugging one wire after another back to back, that I had not one, but two faulty brains... :P that was the worst experience... crimestopper... stay away... DEI? all the way
.. I don't wanna hear that.. it's a crimestopper

I'll mess with the tach modes, hopefully tomorrow if I have the time. If you can get me more info about where your tach wire is I would appreciate it..
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Old 02-03-2003, 09:43 AM   #9
cyoonak
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hahahaha, eh! all i can say is that since it is now installed, it works GREAT.

You should have gotten the crimestopper Passlock bypass as well. That is somethign that actually works great with this system with it working at warm temperatures, and not even failing at below zero.

The tach wire is right by the firewall, on the coil closest to the drivers side. i can take a picture if you need.

best of luck
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Old 02-03-2003, 10:50 AM   #10
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Ok.. so the consensus is that if the RS takeover works then the PL2 bypass is functioning??

I'm in tachless now, I am gonna follow some of the tach learn procedures and shtuff... I'll getb ack to everyone tonite
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Old 02-03-2003, 11:04 AM   #11
cyoonak
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yeah, without the bypass, your takeover wouldn't even work.

funny thing is, is that if it were in tach sensing mode... usually it'll keep cranking and cranking your car....

best of luck
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Old 02-03-2003, 11:15 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyoonak

funny thing is, is that if it were in tach sensing mode... usually it'll keep cranking and cranking your car....

best of luck
yeah that's whats makin me mad.. it turns over then BLAH dies. the intake makes a neat sound tho!
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Old 02-03-2003, 05:22 PM   #13
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Welp... here's where I am... I am in tachless start mode now.

RS takeover works fine and dandy.

Remote start - cranks, turns over, then dies. If I try to start it with the key right afterwards, it does the same.

I'm thinkin passlock problem?? Wheres a good place to start troubleshooting? The OEM disarm wire comin from the brain going to the 555L ?
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Old 02-03-2003, 05:37 PM   #14
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Definately a passlock problem, the car only checks for the r code on crank, so it will do a takeover without a problem. Just make sure that the 555L has

Red----12v
Pink----Ign.
Blue/black-----neg. out when remote start active

yellow----key side r code
yellow/blk---output side r code
black--- pl2 ground ref.

Try this, if no workie then pm me!

Kent
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Old 02-04-2003, 09:37 AM   #15
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Kent... I can start with the key.. so can I assume my 2 R-code wires and the ground reference are correct ??
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Old 02-04-2003, 04:54 PM   #16
mi2kga
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aaathe r codes could be flipped, and/or the blue rs input wire may not be hooked to the right out from the rs. I would try to ground it and then hit the remote start button on the remote, if that works then the output on the alarm/rs is not working.

KEnt
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Old 02-15-2003, 12:29 PM   #17
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Looks like the factory disarm from the brain to trigger the blue/black on the 555L is not working. It is reading about 1 volt all the time.. If I ground out the blue/black, car starts right up. Hopefully this is not a bad brain
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Old 02-16-2003, 02:42 PM   #18
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Welp I definitely got some sort of malfunctioning brain.. I found a workaround tho.. Sucks when you hook up all this stuff right but things that aren't your fault are broken .

Remote start rules
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Old 02-16-2003, 07:42 PM   #19
cyoonak
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That's exactly what happened to me, except mine was the brain itself, the actual remote starter...

Just to also make sure... i never used ANY factory disarm on the remote starter when i was installing mine. Not sure if it's because they didn't put a factory one in on the 99's but, i'm pretty sure you dont' need it for an 01 either... might be part of the problem....

Try a crimestopper one... It's the CS-GMATAII model, and it's been working flawlessly. not to mention, it's like less than 10 bucks off the net
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Old 02-16-2003, 07:44 PM   #20
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Well somethings gotta trigger the passlock bypass module.. I ended up using the starter kill output, which is also a "negative when remote started" lead.. good enough for me.
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