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Old 01-10-2008, 03:37 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeibSunder View Post
Damn...$1,200 for a 5hp increase. You could have gotten at LEAST a 20hp increase with a "Turbo" badge and a couple NOS stickers.
you suck at life.
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Old 01-10-2008, 04:24 AM   #22
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Atleast its a start...
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Old 01-10-2008, 06:49 AM   #23
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the diff in dynos doesnt mean your making more power or not, they just measure differently and generally yield higher numbers on one.....

the a/fs are terrible... a 14.x at wot is the problem
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Old 01-10-2008, 09:03 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_eh View Post
the a/fs are terrible... a 14.x at wot is the problem
The 14.x measurements weren't at WOT.
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Old 01-10-2008, 04:54 PM   #25
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damn looks like you needs some tuning to do. Get with it...
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Old 01-10-2008, 05:12 PM   #26
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Not horrible for a narrow band if you ask me, should be getting a wideband soon. As long as the KR is gone/low and I'm not going lean I'm not too worried atm.
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Old 01-11-2008, 02:42 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angrysk8r View Post
Not horrible for a narrow band if you ask me, should be getting a wideband soon. As long as the KR is gone/low and I'm not going lean I'm not too worried atm.
you don't need to knock to blow.

get back on the dyno, pay some cash for some time on the dyno, get some good logs, and start tweaking while you're strapped down to get the a/f's properly in check.

You had a wideband on there on the dyno, why didn't you do any tuning while strapped down?
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Old 01-11-2008, 10:23 AM   #28
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just didn't have time that day, I'm also doing a group buy on a wideband on some other forums so I should be able to street tune with it pretty soon

also, no appointments were open yesterday to dyno, but i was able to set up a time sunday so I should have some new numbers from the dynojet
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Old 01-11-2008, 03:53 PM   #29
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let me kno where that group buy wideband is...im def in need of one
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Old 01-11-2008, 08:28 PM   #30
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12.5's for AFR's is ideal at WOT. You went as over 14.7:1, not boost friendly. Pull some timing and richen it up a bit and I believe you will get a little more. 10.5's is OK for idle.

I built my first turbo kit for a little less then $1200 using an ebay turbo, and included everything right down to the 25# injectors, couplers, everything. Could have done it for about the same price grabbing a used Garrett and rebuilt kit.



Quote:
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They dyno 140-145 stock, on mustang dynos anyway. Eddy current dynos are more consistant (I have seen .3 hp between runs MAX before). WHP is not Crank HP, or advertised HP.

I don't believe its 20% between mustang and dynojet. Well, not between the equipment anyway. The operator is another story. I would say your car needs some work to hit its full potential. That is about 10whp more power than an 11:1-11.5:1 3400 with 75mm TB, 3500 upper, .539 lift 230s duration cammed 3400 makes. Your paper looks identical to the ones I have scanned from the local speed shop.

You just described my engine with the exception of the 75mm TB. Haven't decided on that just yet.

The biggest drawback to my car is the fact that it uses about 25-30% to run the drivetrain. The stock 3.1 Firebird is advertised at 140hp, and got just over 100 to the wheels. Still ran 17.1 in a RWD weighing ~1.75 tons
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Old 01-11-2008, 10:06 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
12.5's for AFR's is ideal at WOT. You went as over 14.7:1, not boost friendly. Pull some timing and richen it up a bit and I believe you will get a little more. 10.5's is OK for idle.
As said, the 14.X afr's weren't at WOT yet... This car would have died long ago if this was consistantly the case. Pulling timing and richen it up? We're actually looking to do the opposite... 10.5 AFR isn't really desireable ... ever.
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Old 01-12-2008, 05:26 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
12.5's for AFR's is ideal at WOT. You went as over 14.7:1, not boost friendly. Pull some timing and richen it up a bit and I believe you will get a little more. 10.5's is OK for idle.

10.5:1 is crap for idle.


Personally the cars at our shop get tuned for 11.7-12.3:1 a/f. Keepin' it safe for days when the gas ain't so good and other potential fallacys in the chain of thingsl.

I wouldn't recommend 12.5:1 a/f's to most of the people here trying to tune their own rigs as I'm sure they'll end up getting something *in the ballpark* and miss a few blips. Shiyet, my setup was tuned around 11.2-11.9 and well it was definitely making an assload of power.

My opinion is tune the car for 11.5-12.0:1

For idle make it idle like it was stock.
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Old 01-12-2008, 05:27 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shock24Z View Post
As said, the 14.X afr's weren't at WOT yet... This car would have died long ago if this was consistantly the case. Pulling timing and richen it up? We're actually looking to do the opposite... 10.5 AFR isn't really desireable ... ever.
No kidding. At idle sounds like o2 sensors will be fouling, plugs will be screaming, and hiccups will be occuring.
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"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you."
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Old 01-12-2008, 05:31 AM   #34
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"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you."
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Old 01-12-2008, 06:52 AM   #35
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Your right I shouldn't have said idle, but with the KR shouldn't timing be retarded?
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Old 01-12-2008, 10:57 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
Your right I shouldn't have said idle, but with the KR shouldn't timing be retarded?
You've got to get your fueling figured out first before adjusting timing. Right now you don't know if fuel is causing the problem or timing.
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Old 01-12-2008, 03:39 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
Your right I shouldn't have said idle, but with the KR shouldn't timing be retarded?
well basically you start off with retarded timing. The key though is to get your a/f done up properly. Then you have to start tweaking with the timing to where IT is happy. If there is still some knocking then you have to start trying different things such as slightly lower or higher a/f, or even some weird phantom knock that comes out of nowhere.

Timing should only be retarded if you're knocking at x RPM.
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Old 01-13-2008, 11:19 PM   #38
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Here's the new results from the dynojet. I scrounged up some money and did an hour of dyno tuning while I was there too. Before the tune I was getting around 210 max torque and 185 max hp. After a few afr changes the scan below ended up being the best without KR popping up. I tried messing around with the wastegate a little to lessen the boost creep (need to port the ****ty internal wastegate/make a bigger DP) and got 201 max hp but the overall torque and hp was lessened so I went back to the way it was before. Overall it's about what I expected I'd get from the budget project and I'm pretty pleased but still have a ways to go before I'm completely happy.


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Old 01-13-2008, 11:24 PM   #39
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Horay for decent AFR's!
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Old 01-13-2008, 11:29 PM   #40
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ha. sweet torque. i imagine it runs better now?
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