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Old 09-19-2002, 08:59 PM   #21
Stix
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Well, that was by far the most fun I think I've ever had installing anything in my car. I had a 6/32 and a 1/4 inch socket but no 7/32. So I had to go to the hardware store 5 minutes before they closed in the pouring rain and get one. Then I couldnt find the quarter inch adapter for my socket wrench to fit into the furthest screw. I ended up taking the screws out with my hands.. oh yes lots of fun. The old resistor looked like it fried itself. Hopefully it doesn't happen again because I'd never want to install that again. I had a lot easier time installing my subs and amp.
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Old 09-19-2002, 09:33 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by Stix
...Hopefully it doesn't happen again because I'd never want to install that again. I had a lot easier time installing my subs and amp.
Here's a paraphrased quote from "All's Quiet on the Western Front." Bear with me, this actually works into our project:

Quote:
I held the rifle but couldn't get it to ride against my shoulder right, no matter how hard I tried. I just couldn't get the trigger finger and shoulder to match up right against my rifle.

I complained to my army rifle master. He said, "MY--MY".

Tenderly, he cradled my arm, the rifle, and my shoulder.

I swear that every shoulder, neck, and arm joint in my body snapped and popped as he made my body perfectly fit that rifle.
And THAT, to me, explains my reaction to that resistor's installation.
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Old 09-19-2002, 09:37 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally posted by lrymal


And THAT, to me, explains my reaction to that resistor's installation.[/i]
[/b]
Haha, I kept saying to myself "If I could only get my other arm down in here"
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Old 09-21-2002, 06:52 AM   #24
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I must be clueless. I crawled under the passenger side of the car and looked up. All I see is a large black plastic shroud or panel covering the entire area. I do not see any blower fan unit. Am I supposed to remove the panel first? I noticed that the 7/32" socket does not fit the screws holding the panel up.

Did I miss a step somewhere? Should I just have the dealer install it?
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Old 09-21-2002, 11:03 AM   #25
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Yep, those need to come off. I've got pics of everything if you want something.
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Old 09-21-2002, 01:55 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally posted by red rocket
I must be clueless. I crawled under the passenger side of the car and looked up. All I see is a large black plastic shroud or panel covering the entire area. I do not see any blower fan unit. Am I supposed to remove the panel first? I noticed that the 7/32" socket does not fit the screws holding the panel up.

Did I miss a step somewhere? Should I just have the dealer install it?
No, the 7/32 socket is for the screws that are holding the fan resistor in. You need to take off the paneling, then lay outside the car and put your head where the passengers feet go. As far back as possible you will see a connector that fits into the resistor. All I did was unplug it, plug in the new resistor to test it, then unscrewed the screws with the 7/32 socket then put the new resistor in. Only took me 4 hours since I didn't have the right tools, nor the 7/32 socket. I spent more time looking for things than I did installing it.
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Old 09-23-2002, 08:09 AM   #27
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I won't be performing this repair any time soon as I injured my back. I asked my local garage and they say you have to be a contortionist to replace the resistor. He estimated 1.0 - 1.5 hours labor, at $72 a pop!
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Old 09-23-2002, 01:44 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally posted by red rocket
...He estimated 1.0 - 1.5 hours labor, at $72 a pop!
I think this is how I did it:
  • Removed glove box (for visibility reasons) - 2 minutes
  • Removed lower panel - 1 minute
  • Convinced my body that I could do this - 1 minute
  • Layed on left hip, rested on the door sill, head on floorboard - 1 minute. Looked up, saw resistor connector.
  • Removed back bolt near firewall for resistor - 5 minutes
  • Removed remaining bolt - 1 minute
  • Convincing body to come out and rest - 1 minute
TOTAL removal time- 10 minutes

So, the total job should take no more than roughly 30 minutes.
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Old 09-24-2002, 03:07 PM   #29
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I would think it would be a little easier for a mechanic up on a lift too.
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Old 09-24-2002, 03:55 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by red rocket
I would think it would be a little easier for a mechanic up on a lift too.
Probably, but my problem wasn't being low to the ground, it was working in such a tiny space.
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Old 01-04-2003, 05:33 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally posted by nokiatech
OMG this is a pain. He's not kidding about finding a skinny kid. I'm 6'3" 275 and I had heck of a time with this. The resistor panel actually fits up into the blower itself. Or maybe it's just a duct, I'm not sure. It's got a big panel on it that acts as a heatsink. Looks kinda like a centronics connector with a flat panel sticking out the back of it.

I found them for cheap at a local auto parts store (bennet auto supply in case you care)

This is a pic of my old one.
Hey i know what u mean about space....

I had mine replace under warranty so i did have to get up under the dash but when i was putting my stereo system in , its not fun when ur a big guy.....
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Old 01-04-2003, 05:38 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally posted by red rocket
I won't be performing this repair any time soon as I injured my back. I asked my local garage and they say you have to be a contortionist to replace the resistor. He estimated 1.0 - 1.5 hours labor, at $72 a pop!

For the resistor replacement... 1.0 to 1.5 i'm sue that was a guess on his part...

In the replair book or know as labor time's this should only take about .5 or half and hour to do the job....
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Old 01-04-2003, 08:42 PM   #33
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Damnit, this is what I have to look forward too? grrrrrrrrrr
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Old 02-06-2003, 10:17 PM   #34
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thanks guys

thanks alot for the info ,your right that was no joke!!! i need some
advil after taking that out!! you guys saved me $150 ,i thought it was the HAVC controls !!!

godbless
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Old 02-16-2003, 06:48 AM   #35
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Originally posted by Aleromi
For the resistor replacement... 1.0 to 1.5 i'm sue that was a guess on his part...

In the replair book or know as labor time's this should only take about .5 or half and hour to do the job....
I had mine done a few months ago at the dealer's ... it was $80 parts + labor included...

I was a little peeved at the time that it cost $80 to replace a farkin' resistor.....

Honestly, now that I read what you guys had to do to fix it, I'm more than happy to pay the $80 for it.

I'm not the smallest guy in the world, *AND* I have a bad case of carpal tunnel, so I'm not really thrilled with the idea of contorting myself in that tiny-super-small space.

--DM
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Old 02-16-2003, 01:57 PM   #36
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I just got done replacing mine and it wasn't that bad. As long as you have a 1/4" driver, extenion, and universal joint. Probably 30 minutes tops. If you didn't have that universal joint it would have taken me all day...
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Old 02-16-2003, 03:05 PM   #37
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as i say having the right tools for the job IS A MUST...

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Old 02-21-2003, 01:39 PM   #38
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Im on my way outside right now to give this a shot, keep your fingers crossed for me...
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Old 02-21-2003, 03:14 PM   #39
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Anyone time me? Without a my bathroom break, took me bout an hour. I didnt put that pesky second screw back in, seemed like it was quite secure with just the front (closest to passenger compartment) screw in . The rear on is a real PITA!!!! The front one however didnt even require the universal joby thing.
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Old 02-28-2003, 09:19 PM   #40
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Re: thanks guys

Quote:
Originally posted by Geo
thanks alot for the info ,your right that was no joke!!! i need some
advil after taking that out!! you guys saved me $150 ,i thought it was the HAVC controls !!!

godbless
has ne1 ever taken the HVAC controls apart??? dont do it!! i spent like 2 hours getting the fan positioner workin right again. and just today, the fan switch, damn ball bearing, spring and $hit! its crazy you need all that just for selecting something to keep u warm/cool.

my 2Ĺ“nts

later
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