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Old 03-12-2003, 10:28 PM   #41
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u know no soon as i read a simliar thread mine goes out....thats amazing....this part isnt avalible at local part stores? thanks justin
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Old 03-13-2003, 05:23 PM   #42
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yup that right cant get that restior relay from any parts store.

only can get it from the dealer.
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Old 03-13-2003, 07:49 PM   #43
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i got it 16$ now the fun part
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Old 03-14-2003, 06:23 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally posted by Green99GT
i got it 16$ now the fun part
Good luck and take ur time ....

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Old 03-28-2003, 11:20 PM   #45
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Success!!

Well, enough of the snow has melted, so I had a go at changing the resistor today...

Result:

Much thanks for the excellent information provided in this thread. Made the job easy as pie.

Post job comments:
- I'm in Canada (Calgary), so there is not much choice except to get the parts through the dealer. Not too bad as the cost was $31.54 CDN. The Canadian part number for the resistor is the same as the posted US part number (I've had problems in the past).
- The universal socket adapter is a must. I didn't have one, so I picked one up on the way to the dealership. Cost me just over $10 CDN.
- Total job took me about half an hour. I'm big and fat so it was interesting squeezing my body under the dash... sure would have helped if I was left handed, though. Not a huge problem with the universal adapter (did I mention that it really is a must have)
- The dealership (stealership ?) estimated the job at over $200 P&L (even though I was just out of warranty).... sorry, no sale.
- No, I'm not kidding, you need the universal adapter. It is an extremely good investment for this job.

Now it is time for

Thanks again for all the help... If anyone needs help with this in the Calgary area, feel free to email and I'll see if I can help.
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Old 03-29-2003, 10:55 PM   #46
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Exclamation Re: that dealer

Quote:
Originally posted by Losmir
...
- I'm in Canada (Calgary), so there is not much choice except to get the parts through the dealer. Not too bad as the cost was $31.54 CDN
...
- The dealership (stealership ?) estimated the job at over $200 P&L (even though I was just out of warranty).... sorry, no sale...
wtf

I watched mine get changed while it was under warrenty.
The tech was faster @ changing that resistor out than a parts guy trying to put in new after-market headlight bulbs that I bought there (with no-charge for the labour install of the bulbs).
It took the tech less than 30 minutes to do.

Even if the dealer charges @ 100Cdn/hour; & they billed @ 1-hour & part @ $31.54Cdn...I don't see how that would = $200Cdn.
I would watch out about using that dealer for service, considering some have said the 'book rate' is 1/2 hour.

Last edited by Mike Jung; 03-29-2003 at 10:59 PM.
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Old 03-30-2003, 01:05 AM   #47
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Re: Re: that dealer

Quote:
Originally posted by Mike Jung
...
Even if the dealer charges @ 100Cdn/hour; & they billed @ 1-hour & part @ $31.54Cdn...I don't see how that would = $200Cdn.
I would watch out about using that dealer for service, considering some have said the 'book rate' is 1/2 hour.
I seem to remember that the service writer quoted me about 2hrs worth of work and $50-70 for the part... hence the $200+

This means that the service writer
a) Didn't have a clue about what he was talking about,
b) Wasn't sure if the resistor was the problem and was adding a little slack in case that wasn't the problem, or
c) Figured I was a chump and he and the dealership owner could retire a little earlier.

When I nearly gagged about the $200, he spouted off about having to remove a bunch of the carpeting (FALSE!!), and other difficulty in getting to the part. My gut feeling is that the correct answer is (a) since he didn't bother looking up the part value and seemed to want to just get rid of me.

Thank goodness for this forum, because if I didn't know any better....

Too bad for them: if they had quoted a half hour plus the actual parts, I would have said go... instead, I got it done for less cash plus less time (getting the car to the dealership is a real chore), plus I get to keep a new tool (the socket adapter)
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Old 04-02-2003, 09:09 AM   #48
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I bought the part myself for $10 and had my local mechanic install it. He charged me 1.5 hours labor.
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Old 05-27-2003, 11:16 AM   #49
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I just called GM and they quoted me $27 for the part and $27 for installation. Might be the better way to go for me, . By the way, I am in Canada, so it gives some of the Canadian people an idea of what it will cost you too.
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Old 05-27-2003, 05:54 PM   #50
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I just called my local dealerhip this afternoon and they want 27.50 CAD for it.........kinda pricey for such a small part.
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Old 05-27-2003, 06:48 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally posted by silverbullet00
I just called GM and they quoted me $27 for the part and $27 for installation. Might be the better way to go for me, . By the way, I am in Canada, so it gives some of the Canadian people an idea of what it will cost you too.
silverbullet00,
It they are willing to do it for that price (if you don't want to do it yourself)


Mine started not working again; on & off this month.

Just went to a Chevy dealer after-work.

They quoted me $50Cdn for 1/2-hour labour (@ $100Cdn/hour) + resistor part.

So I bought the part for $27.30Cdn ($0.50 higher than the phone quote from beginning of the month).
Will try to do it this weekend.

Last edited by Mike Jung; 05-27-2003 at 08:07 PM.
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Old 05-27-2003, 09:13 PM   #52
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I wonder, Has any one ever tried to install this by taking the seat out so you could lay down and do it? seems like it would be better and the seat isnt hard to remove.
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Old 06-02-2003, 07:47 PM   #53
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I changed mine yesterday...is my shoulders/upper back sore; but I saved $50Cdn doing it myself (with some help).
At some point in time, I even asked my mom to get in there; as she has smaller hands & shoulders
I would get into there & get my shoulders would get stuck under the glove box trying to twist into a good position to work in there.


A little more info for others who want to do it themselves.

You will need:
a 7mm socket to take the 2-screws that hold the plastic cover/trim in place.
a small straight handle bit ratchet with 1/4" bit driver adaptor, small extension bar, 1/4" universal joint adaptor, 7/32" socket to take the 2-screws that hold the resistor in place.

I found that using a straight handle bit ratchet was easier then trying to use a small 1/4" driver socket wrench.

The 1/4" universal joint adaptor is a MUST!
I tried using a 3/8" univeral joint adaptor & there is not enough space clearance to reach the screws...hell there was barely enough room for the 1/4" universal joint adaptor (that I borrowed from a neighbour...I thought I had one somewhere, but just couldn't find it).

Last edited by Mike Jung; 06-02-2003 at 08:03 PM.
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Old 06-02-2003, 11:19 PM   #54
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does anyone know if thats how u would replace the ones in a 2000 grand prix to? MY buddy has the same problem we all have but no longer has warranty, and his problem is a little worse his 1-4 settings are out.
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Old 06-13-2003, 04:08 PM   #55
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well i just changed mine...that back screw sucks hard. i coulnt even get a good grip on it with my extension and universal joint. i just left if off because after i got the new resistor in, i couldnt even get the screw in the hole....oh well...it works now, and i can have cool without turning all the way up.

now to fix my blinkers.
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Old 05-21-2004, 09:33 PM   #56
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well i changed it, did exactly as you guys said now my chime is all messed up and my car starts up and then dies right away....
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Old 05-24-2004, 08:01 AM   #57
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had to replace mine this weekend since settings 1 and 2 just went out. first, autozone can order a wells brand one for $16. yeah, it's squirreled up in there, but i got the back bolt out with just my 1/4" drive ratchet with a 12 pt 7/32" socket on it. use a 12pt so it's easier to get the socket on since your room to move it is literally just enough to do it. my ratchet movement was only like 1/8 turn each ratchet but it came out in like 30 seconds though. i could see how one of those flex drivers would be perfect for this though.

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Old 06-07-2004, 08:44 PM   #58
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Ya, so I went and got the new resistor now 1-4 don't work. Any ideas about it now? I might as well put the blown one in so I get 3-5. Bah just my luck I guess.

edit- I finally got it to work. And to answer a question from earlier in the thread, it makes it a lot more comftorable if you remove the passanger seat. Also if you remove the fan itself you can turn the wrench more and it makes things go buy quicker. The silver thing with the 3 screws is the fan.
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Old 06-08-2004, 07:27 PM   #59
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Add me to the list... 1 and 2 are out on mine now. Chalk up yet another common problem mine has gotten.

I am moving in a couple weeks, so I have too much on my schedule to touch it until the end of the month. Thanks to the information on this board, I'll be doing the repair myself.


Not to get off topic here, but I'm not sure I'll buy anything GM again. From brakes to window regulators, to intake gaskets, blower resistors, hazard switch recall, etc. My God, the car only has 45K miles on it. Both of my previous cars (a Ford and a Dodge), both of which I sold at around 55-60K miles, had a combined total of ONE instance requiring work beyond regular maintenance. My new place is 30 miles away from my job - I don't have a whole lot of confidence that this car will be able to take the large increase in miles it will now see.
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Old 06-09-2004, 10:40 AM   #60
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I have joined the 'Fan Blower Resistor' club. It was not too bad. The PITA was back screw. The strange part was that, the back screw was easier to reinstall.
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