SVS/ABS Lights - Brakes Appear Fine

[iceman]

Originally Posted by nate2023

Does anyone know if the "AutoTap" OBD2 scanner can scan ABS codes, and if it can, how?

Autotap can only query the PCM. It cost what, like $265? I sold mine and got a tricom from www.obd-2.com, it will talk to all devices on the class 2 bus, including abs, ebc, pcm, bcm, radio, blah blah. and it costs less.

[yahuli]

Ok, how about this?

I've been having the same problem (ABS/TRAC OFF/SVS lights) with my 2000 GA SE since I first bought it and have discovered that disconnecting and reseating the connectors takes care of things for a short while. Then during inclimate weather (rain, snow, etc) it begins acting up again. What do you guy think about this?

1. Unplug sensor connectors
2. Spray with contact cleaner/WD40 to help remove corrosion or dampness
3. Plug connectors back in
4. Coat plug ends (where wires go into the connectors) and area where the plugs butt together with some silicone caulking in order to deter further moisture infiltration.
5. let vehicle sit over night for caulking to cure.

Do you think that this is a viable solution, or is there something better to keep the dampness out of these connectors?

Thanks!

[iceman]

Also.. dielectric grease, don't caulk electrical connectors

[yahuli]

Originally Posted by iceman

Also.. dielectric grease, don't caulk electrical connectors

right- I was talking about putting the caulking on the outside of the connectors where moisture might seep in. I definitely wouldn't caulk the actual electrical connections- that's just stupid. But yes, dielectric grease is a great idea for on those- thanks!

[iceman]

Still, I would not do that. To take apart the connector if you have to do it, means the wire coming out the back. I would still shove dielectric grease in there, it will do the trick, I promise

[wtselig07]

Had the same problem and I am a mechanic.

The wires going into the sensors have a tendancy to stretch and eventually break with the turning of the wheel. They tell you not to try and fix them and will try to sell you the whole hub assembly just for the abs connecter and wire.
Just pop the wheel off and thouroughly inspect them before doing anything. If anything of the wires are broken just solder them back together and make sure you use heat shrink. (This isn't done by mechanics because 1. Going by the book you're not supposed to repair any ABS wire. and 2. It covers our a**es so we don't get comebacks.) They say soldering the wires adds resistance to the wire and doesn't give proper ABS wheel speed readings yada yada yada but it works fine for people that don't have a lot of money to waste. I had to do it on mine and thus far no further problems. Just because the insulation isn't torn apart doesn't mean the copper wire inside isn't broken.

Any other questions feel free to ask...

[FunkZ]

We had icy slush on the roads this morning to contend with and on the way to work I had the ABS, CVS and Trac Off lights come on. I pulled over, shut the car off and restarted to clear them but after driving a short distance they came back on. Did this a total of 4 times. While the lights were on neither the traction control nor ABS was working. Didn't seem to matter if I was accelerating, braking or just driving as to what was triggering it.

So anyway I had it scanned, fully expecting it to be something in the front but the tech said it came up with both rear wheel sensor codes. So since this is the first time this has done this in the 3 weeks owning the car, and just coincidentally the first real inclement weather I've driven the car in, what's the chances it is simply ice/water got into the sensor connector? Guess I'll try blowing out the connector with compressed air and then using something like dielectric grease, see if that fixes it?

[gectek]

Originally Posted by gectek

I had a similar problem with both my rear sensors. so here is what i thought. both sensors really cant go out at the same time. I had a scan tool at my school, so i used it through the month. same codes. all 3 lights were on, brake, abs and svs. so if both rear sensors are bad, lets see where the wiring goes. tah dah, wiring harness to rear bulkhead connector. ordered a new wiring harness for that, like $28, came with clips and everything installed in all the right locations, go to take old one out and what did i find...a bunch of water and trash was held up in the wire loom. I think this is the root cause of alot of these types of failures. so i took the old harness out, put the new one in, before i plugged the new one in, put di-electric grease in the connector plugs, plugged them in, and its Ronco Time...set it and forget itno problems since, that was 8 months ago, also cuz a few holes in the loom to drain the water so it wont set up.

quoted for validity...try and open the harness and see if there is water or trash in it or not...

[mekaneck]

I love it when I get great information from these type of forums, especially from newbies.

http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/showp...7&postcount=40

excellent post. I measured my GF's wheel sensors. Much higher than 1160 ohms. Replaced RF wheel hub. Saved $400 from dealer. Keep up the good work!

Point of reply?
GOOD JOB BLUNDON!

[Ajaxus]

So I get the intermittent SVS/ABS deal, is it the same if it's just an intermittent SVS light only with no ABS?

Cause I've been getting that alot the last few days..

[gectek]

alot of times the svs light is the daytime running lamps are not working correctly, like a blown bulb or something

[Ajaxus]

Originally Posted by gectek

alot of times the svs light is the daytime running lamps are not working correctly, like a blown bulb or something

that would make sense..condensation finally blew one of my bulbs..new headlights/bulbs in the spring ftmfw?

thanks

[gectek]

de nacho, and dont ask me how i know that GM has an actual trouble code for blown headlamp and or DRLs not working properly...they laugh when u pull the car in the stall the relay clicks and only one light goes on and ur going through the scan tool looking for codes and a guy goes hey your light isnt working

[xrw600]

I had that EXACT same problem. And for a long time just couldnt figure it out. When i was under my car i checked the connectors for my wheel speed sensors, they looked pretty good, not dirty or anything. after about three times looking underneath, i happend to look at the wires where they go into the hub. I had a severed wire, it was causing it to loose connection when i hit a bump or hit a little water. So i took and soldered the wire back into place. It's a pretty tight spot, had to take the tire off to get to it, but that fixed it for a while. But later on the lights came back on, this time i had a feeling it might be the connector. It was on my Passenger front rim, so i took and cut the connector off and re-wired a brand new one. Wrapped it and insulated it with silicone. I've never had a problem since. Hope this helps. Just keep in mind, just cause the connector looks ok, it might not be.

[Dirtball]

I had noticed more "road noise" in the last week, and now I assume I know why. Since I have more noise AND my abs/svs/trac off lights are coming on should I just assume that I have a hub going bad, or should I take the time to crawl under and check wires? It's DEFINITELY making more roadgoing noise.

Money is really tight for us right now... trying to figure this out and avoid the dealer...

Thanks in advance for ideas/opinions... I know you can't diagnose over a computer, I'm just looking for opinions, folks...

[bryanw0087]

Yeah thats def a bad hub, i had the same problem twice now, and its always been a bad hub

[Dirtball]

Can you check these hubs the old-fashioned way... jacking a corner up and lifting up and down on the tire to feel for play? If I spin the tire am I likely to hear a difference in the bad one with no load on the bearing and few RPMs on the hub? I've never owned a vehicle with sealed hubs before. I know I can do the work once I determine the bad one.

Is the dealer the only place to get that code read? Someone earlier in this thread asked if there was any other place but I didn't see an answer.

[Ajaxus]

Originally Posted by Dirtball

Can you check these hubs the old-fashioned way... jacking a corner up and lifting up and down on the tire to feel for play? If I spin the tire am I likely to hear a difference in the bad one with no load on the bearing and few RPMs on the hub? I've never owned a vehicle with sealed hubs before. I know I can do the work once I determine the bad one.

Is the dealer the only place to get that code read? Someone earlier in this thread asked if there was any other place but I didn't see an answer.

Some places like autozone or pepboys or even local parts stores will offer services to scan for codes. If they don't around you, I'm sure they could probably direct you to someone who can.

[Dirtball]

My local Autozone scans for sEs codes but not sVs codes, unfortunately... I had it checked and they got NO codes. I think someone earlier in this thread mentioned that they only check sEs, but it was old enough that I had hoped that had changed. I might go back and see, making sure I know what they need to check for now. We also have O'Reilly's and Advance nearby... need I try them instead?

Thanks for the response.

[Ajaxus]

Hm, can't remember if O'Reilly's does scans or not, it wouldn't hurt to check. And like I said, if they don't do the scans or in this case not the right scans, ask them if they know anyone who does (and at affordable prices)..that way you don't end up driving all over and wasting your own time and money.