SVS/ABS Lights - Brakes Appear Fine

[Lab Rat]

Try Midas or a bigger chian brake shop. They may scan you for no fee or cheaper than the dealer. Pretty sure the code will say which sensor, then replace that hub.

[Dirtball]

LOL... which is why I queried if you could check them the old fashioned way.

I appreciate the advice and will act upon it. Our Autozone actually has a couple of oldtimers who know their stuff and who have lived in our small town all their lives. If anyone knows the proper place to send me it'll be one of them.

[SSRacer]

I'm having this problem intermittently as well. Pretty sure it's just the sensor or wires on mine. A few years ago my mom got run off the road in my car and hit a large mound of concrete. It broke the aluminum steering knuckle on the pass side and she drove it two blocks to home like that. I replaced the knuckle with one from a junk yard, new hub, new lower ball joint and new half shaft.

My guess is I have some not so perfect wires under there too.

[Caputo777]

I just brought my car to the shop last week for this problem (yet again) and they read 2 codes...one was to replace the front left assembly..so they did hoping both the codes they got (one was a history code whatever that means) would go away.

Within minutes of picking my car up the 3 lights came back on so I brought it back in today. I just got a call that they are still getting the one code but need to do probably 1-2 hours of diagnosing to figure out the problem.

In the past when I've had my assemblies replaced it would take care of the problem - does what I've been told today make any sense to anyone? I don't know what else could possibly be throwing that same combination of lights: SVS, ABS and Trac off.

[bryanw0087]

Originally Posted by Caputo777

I just brought my car to the shop last week for this problem (yet again) and they read 2 codes...one was to replace the front left assembly..so they did hoping both the codes they got (one was a history code whatever that means) would go away.

Within minutes of picking my car up the 3 lights came back on so I brought it back in today. I just got a call that they are still getting the one code but need to do probably 1-2 hours of diagnosing to figure out the problem.

In the past when I've had my assemblies replaced it would take care of the problem - does what I've been told today make any sense to anyone? I don't know what else could possibly be throwing that same combination of lights: SVS, ABS and Trac off.

possibly a exposed wire is gounding? or getting water on it somewhere along the lines causing it to send the error code?

[Caputo777]

Originally Posted by bryanw0087

possibly a exposed wire is gounding? or getting water on it somewhere along the lines causing it to send the error code?

Well the ended up finding that the terminal in my battery was stripped and I was only getting 8 volts of power causing an ABS issue when I'd hit the breaks. They replaced the battery and some wiring and now the guy is saying the lights will come on and off randomly while driving...thats worrisome because it seems like this problem always involved coming on and then staying on until you turned the car off. I don't even know where he's planning to go at this point...

[plastic_indian]

N bodies (not to mention C, G, K and W) are notorious for front hub problems. The ABS wheel speed sensor is integral to the hub. Typically, code C12xx stored is an indicator of a hub/speed sensor failure. Of note, TSB 03-04-18-001 indicates availability of a revised axle nut and revised torque specification to help prolong the life of these hubs. GM P/N for the nut is 10289657 (new nut is silver, old nut was a black unit with a sheetmetal cage) and torque spec is 173 lb ft (old unit spec was 284).

This is a pretty critical part, folks, and your safety is on the line. Don't buy the cheapo AZ part. If you can't afford a dealer or genuine Delco unit, at least get a premium line from napa (BRG line code, an SKF unit) or carquest.

All this is not to say that a 'trac' light means you have a bad hub, but it's certainly a likely culprit.

[Caputo777]

Originally Posted by Caputo777

Well the ended up finding that the terminal in my battery was stripped and I was only getting 8 volts of power causing an ABS issue when I'd hit the breaks. They replaced the battery and some wiring and now the guy is saying the lights will come on and off randomly while driving...thats worrisome because it seems like this problem always involved coming on and then staying on until you turned the car off. I don't even know where he's planning to go at this point...

Well I am stuck with those lights for the rest of the time I decide to keep my GA...apparently after ruling out everything else he determined it must be a problem with the controller...said he soaked it with some dielectric grease hoping for the best...nothing. He said replacing the controller would be $2000+ seeing as how my car is 8 years old and has 107k on it, I'm not even considering that.

[surreal_awakeni]

Assuming that it actually is the control module (I might consider a second opinion), GM Parts Direct has the control module for a 2000 Grand Am listed at $494. And I can guaran-****in-teeee that there's not $1500 worth of labor involved. I think there's a slight difference between 99 and 2000 models, but 99 only lists .8 hours of shop time to replace the module.

Edit: I stripped a 2000 GAGT for parts a few years back and if memory serves me correctly, it was set up the same as the 99 Alero I have. The control module is inside the drivers fender. Remove the plastic inner fender, then look behind the washer reservoir. 2 bolts hold it in. Pull it out, unplug it, reverse the procedure to put it back together. Someone correct me if I'm wrong about this for the 2000 models.

[landa220]

I had the same problem (occaisional lights, etc.) for quite a while. After replacing several hubs and still having the warnings after a short period of time I decided on attacking the connection as well.

THIS time I focused on the ABS wiring harness (connector) on the hub. I disconnected it, cleaned it very well, then used some radio tuner cleaner on it. You know the good old spray stuff we used to use on radio volume controls to clean it and stop the static, etc.

Then I let it dry, then reconnected it and used several layers of heat resistant electrical tape etc. to hold it firmly in place.

It's been two years, and I haven't had another ABS/Trac Off light come on.

Hope this helps,

Landa

[KNIGHTRDRX]

My car is in the shop for those reasons now.
I had my front brake pads replaced and on the way home the 3 lights came on.
I went back the next day and blamed the mechanic. there was no way these came on by coincidence. He tried to reset the lights but it didn't work.
Finally the owner did a code check and explained it has nothing to do with changing the brake pads. The wire is bad on the left side for the sensor. I did notice a month ago i was hearing some creaky sounds from the left wheel when i turned the wheel...then it went away..That probably has nothing to do with it.

The list price is $140 for the wheel bearing and he gave me a discount on the labor.\\

On a side note, I was also stunned to find my Remsa Ceramic front Brake pads which I bought in April and had installed at a garage , were worn out just 15,000 miles later.
While the previous two standard sets on the car lasted 50,000 miles each.

[djcrowd]

coulde be the bearing he came with the abs sensor he might be finished

[ga2001gt532]

i got the same problem i replaced the right one about a month ago but my lights only come on when i crank the wheel all the way to the right but never to the left could it be just a short in the wire somewhere. also my brake light comes on and my curise control won't work when that happens

[Mattyj724]

wheel speed sensors i think in all of the grand ams are messed up, thats what kept throwing my light on

[Izzy]

Is your ABS, TRAC, and SES light on? If they are on steadily, more than likely the wires to your wheel speed sensors have become brittle due to water, salt, ect... If they come on and off, followed by a shifty jerk then more than likely the wires are falling apart and the lights will soon be on constantly. I've seen this a thousand time like this and bought 99-00 GAGT's off people simply because a garage said it was going to cost more than they thought the car was worth. You can fix this for under $100 with a couple ordinary car tools, a second jack, and some loaner tools from Autozone....that's right! Loaners. Autozone will loan you the hub puller and 34mm axle nut socket, you will however be asked to put a deposit down on them, which will be completely refunded to you when returned.

Don't bother asking Autozone to run a scan using their scan-tool to assess the codes. ABS codes will not show-up. One of these days maybe they will combine the 2 systems and we'll be able to read them with one affordable scan-tool. But, no worries, 9 out of 10 times it's the front-right speed sensor. You can use an inexpensive (under $10) DVOM (digital voltmeter) to test them, just make sure it can measure up to 2000 ohms.

Now, it would be a lot easier to be in a garage with a hydraulic lift to test each wheel, but it can be done simply by jacking them up and testing them individually. Start with the front-right. After taking the wheel off, find the wires leading out the back-left side (as you are facing it).
Use a flat headed screw driver to pry apart the silver clip holding the sensor connectors onto the splash shield and then disconnect them. Once disconnected, set your DVOM to 2000 ohms and place the leads on the terminals inside the connector to the speed sensor as shown, doesn't matter what order when testing resistance.
A new hub assembly will usually register between 1050 and 1250 ohms. I've seen some others a little higher and some a little lower, older, worn ones will usually register a bit lower. Now if you have an intermittent ABS light, use some alligator clips to hook-up the DVOM to the leads and move the wires around to see if the reading on the DVOM shorts (reading "0"). Sometimes the break in the wire is close to the connectors, in which case if you are familiar with soldering you can repair the break by doing so. However, if the break is close to the axle, I would advise against it, due to the proximity of the axle to the sensor wires. If you get a reading of "0" when testing the sensor, there's a short somewhere in the connection from the terminals in the connector to the wires leading to the sensor. If you get a "1" when testing the sensor, it's a bad sensor. As you can see in the following pic, there are a lot of ways for water, salt, and corrosives to get into the connector and wire housing as seen below. While you are testing the speed sensor, you might as well check the resistance through the connector leading to the computer just to make sure there isn't a short that way or in the computer board. You should get a reading of "1" on all when checking this.
After testing all speed sensors for the proper resistance, if they all check out, you may want to purchase an ABS code reader before continuing. This will give you an indication where the break in the wiring is. The code will tell you which sensor is bad and then you can follow the electric to find where the problem is. If you get a reading of "0" or "1" across one of the sensors, you'll have to order the whole wheel hub assembly. The sensor, bearings, and hub cannot be replaced separately. They are all one piece. Autozone sells them for around $110, you can order them at this link for $86.51 plus tax with free shipping to 48 states. http://www.thecarpartwarehouse.com/c...h009-item.html
Once you receive the new sensor, test it right out of the box. Make sure it is within specs (usually around 1100 ohms). If it's not, return it. Once you have a good hub assembly, you need to start taking the other off. This should take about an hour, maybe two if you are new at it. [NOT ALL OF MY PRACTICES ARE SAFE. I JUST USE WHAT I GOT AROUND ME. ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE CAR IS SUPPORTED IF YOU ARE GOING TO BE APPLYING A LOT OF FORCE TO IT SO IT DOESN'T FALL ON YOU OR ON THE GROUND] After the car is jacked up, put the wheel under the chassis, just behind the wheel well by the front passenger door, or use some stands. Remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper on, as shown below. You don't need to compress the caliper piston, just slide it off the rotor and set it down on something so you aren't stretching the hose.
Remove rotor and splash shield. Place 34mm axle nut socket over axle nut and hit a couple times with a hammer until socket is on the axle nut far enough so it doesn't fall off. Don't pound all the way on or you'll have some fun getting it out. Connect to wrench and remove. You may need to place an extension bar over the axle wrench to get it moving.
Once axle nut is removed, place hub puller to face of hub and tighten 3 wheel nuts over the bolts through the hub puller. Using your wheel nut wrench, tighten the screw into the hub puller to push the axle back out of the bad hub assembly. Your hub assembly won't move at all, while the axle will be pushed back out of it. Once backed out, remove hub puller. Now take out the three bolts holding the hub assembly on. This is where I used a second jack to raise the arm to remove the top nut to the hub assembly. After all bolts are removed, you may need to use the flat head screwdriver and a hammer to help loosen the hub assembly. Don't worry about damaging it, there's pretty much nothing you can do to fix it, and more than likely (especially if it's a front hub) the bearings probably needed to be replaced anyway. Once old hub is removed, you may need to do a bit of cleaning. Take some steel wool or if you're lucky enough to have a dremmel, clean the flange surfaces, wipe off, and apply a bit of dielectric grease to prevent any water from seeping in. You can also apply some of this to the top of and any areas of the connectors where water could penetrate it. Then wrap the wires with some electrical tape.
Once cleaned, put splash shield back and insert new hub assembly, being careful of the placement of the wires to the connector. You want them near the top, or the wires will be stretched and more than likely the same thing will occur as soon as you make a sharp turn. Make sure grooves line up and push axle from back slightly. Put axle nut back on and tighten, this will pull axle back into position. reconnect speed sensor connectors and push clip back onto splash shield. Put rotor back on, slide caliper back into place (should slide back in) and tighten bolts. Put wheel back on, and start up the car. Your ABS lights might not even come on, if they are you may need to take the car for a drive around the block above 10 mph. The lights should clear up automatically, but if they still come on, recheck the connections. The terminals may not have aligned in the connectors, or you might have 2 bad sensors. Good luck, have fun!

[PhantomLover007]

Nice guide man.

[DefaZe]

Could this have happened if I was drifting into a bunch of snowbanks and completely filled my wheels and under body with snow? What that guide right there says fits my exact situation to the tee, except it's my SVS not SES light that's on.

[landa220]

Excellent tutorial. I can testify, it's not that hard of a job with the right tools.

I even got a lifetime warranty on the hubs, (Murray's Discount Auto) which I utilized a couple of times until I realized my problem was the connections.

Good work.

[chuckclose1]

Originally Posted by jwk3465

I am having the same problem. ABS, Trac Off and SVS lights come on occasionally. Already took it to a mechanic, who hooked it up to a computer, and told me he could find nothing. Should the sensor be replaced maybe?

exactly what my car di last night. when i turned the car off and on again it was out. it came on when i made a sharp u turn and hit the brakes at the end of the turn

[RPO3]

Eww, that old bearing needed jesus