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Old 12-22-2003, 02:23 PM   #1
silver02ws6
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Question Replacing lower intake manifold gasket

I'll be replacing the lower intake manifold gasket on my brother's 2000 GAGT in the next few days. Started leaking at 57K miles. I just wanted to make sure I've got all the gaskets and stuff before I start. This is what I've got:

1 x 89017279 - Intake gasket kit
2 x 10154775 - Valve cover gaskets
4 x 11588915 - Short intake manifold bolts
4 x 11588914 - Long intake manifold bolts
Dexcool Coolant
Black RTV sealant
Pack of razor blades to remove old gasket material
Brake cleaner

I've used the search and have come across a few other part #'s and parts without part #s, which I'm not sure I'll need or not. I've read it's a good idea to replace the distributor dummy shaft o-ring while you have the engine apart. I'll also be needing the EGR gaskets. What are the part numbers for these parts? What about a gasket for the t-stat housing and throttle body? Also, where exactly does the distributor dummy shaft o-ring go?

Here's a few of the other part #'s that I've come across from invoices posted on the forum. Do I need to replace these as well?
10477565 - oil pump seal
24504709 - heater inlet pipe adapter o-ring

So basically I need the part numbers for the EGR and dummy shaft o-ring as well as anything else anyone can think I'm missing that I'll need for this undertaking. I may also need the t-stat housing gasket and throttle body gasket unless they are reusable or do not need to be removed.

I called a local dealer and they told me the part # for the EGR gasket is 24506939. Is this correct or is there another gasket that I'll need?

Thanks for anyones help. I'll try to take pics and do a write up when I'm done.
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Old 12-22-2003, 06:44 PM   #2
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The dist. dummy o-ring= oil pump drive seal.

this is located just to the back and underneath the TB. You will see a forked braket with one bolt that is holding down a 1 1/4 aluminium ring. once the upper manifold is removed you will be able to remove it.

Just pull it up with a twisting motion as there is a worm gear at the end. Don't be surprised as it is about 3 -4 inches long. Once you have it in your hand you will see the oring about 1/2 inch from the top of the drive. Use a small hook and remove it from the grouve and then oil up the new ring and roll it up the shaft like a condom. be carefull not to nick or tear the new ring as it will be tighter than the old.

When you reinstall, lubricate the hole and you must rotate the drive until the worm engages with its couterpart in the block. When you get to the oring you will probably have to lightly tap it in. I use a 1 1/4 socket.


Don't forget the torque specs and sequencing. Also change your oil and filter.

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Last edited by pfofit; 12-22-2003 at 06:48 PM.
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Old 12-22-2003, 07:42 PM   #3
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Why are you replacing the bolts?
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Old 12-22-2003, 07:47 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by Blackrider
Why are you replacing the bolts?
I think it is recommended that the bolts be replaced with new ones.At least that is what my local dealership says.
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Old 12-22-2003, 07:54 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by BLACK99GT/ROB
I think it is recommended that the bolts be replaced with new ones.At least that is what my local dealership says.
Bahhh Mine have been off 2 times now and they are fine, Its head bolts you cant reuse.
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Old 12-22-2003, 08:02 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by Blackrider
Bahhh Mine have been off 2 times now and they are fine, Its head bolts you cant reuse.
That is what he must have been talking about because I know he said you had to use new ones somewhere,I just forgot which ones.
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Old 12-22-2003, 08:06 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by BLACK99GT/ROB
That is what he must have been talking about because I know he said you had to use new ones somewhere,I just forgot which ones.
Yeah Head bolts are "torque to yeld" bolts meaning they strech when torqued.
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Old 12-23-2003, 06:40 AM   #8
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Blackrider is right. You replace your head bolts whenever you take them out, but the intake bolts should be re-usable. You shouldn't be torqueing them hard enough to see them fall into the range of plastic deformation.
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Old 12-23-2003, 07:50 AM   #9
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I was going by bulletin # 03-06-01-010B. Basically the new bolts come with pre-applied threadlocker. You can reuse the old ones and buy some threadloc at AutoZone. With my luck I'd have everything put back together and as I'm putting my tools away I'd find an un-opened tube of threadloc.

I also have a few other rings and seals that I picked up. I'll post the parts #'s with pics when I get a chance. I'm going to start taking things apart tonight and hopefully have everything back together by tomorrow night.

I have the torque specs for the intake bolts in the TSB. I also have the Haynes manual and hopefully I can find any other specs I need on the net. Perhaps the only good thing to come of all this is that I bought a new torque wrench that reads lb in.
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Old 12-23-2003, 08:37 AM   #10
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I had this done, and here is the part list and desc of the problem from the invoice (warrantee work). They replaced the bolts... They are cheap, so if GM is recommending it, I'd do it.

Lower intake end seals leaking R/R Lower intake manifold. Replaced Gaskets, Seals

1 x 89017279 Gasket KT 3.270
4 x 11588914 Bolt 3.275
4 x 11588915 Bolt 8.900
1 x 10154775 Gasket 0.423
1 x 12346290 Coolant 8.800
1 x 12192466 *Wire 2.240
1 x 5000 Local P/U
1 x 12192465 #Wire 2.240
1 x 5000 Local P/U


Add oil to the list, but I brought in my own Mobil 1
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Old 12-23-2003, 09:02 AM   #11
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I ran regular oil for a 300KM then a did an oil change to get all the colant out, then I put in moble 1
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Old 12-23-2003, 09:29 AM   #12
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I'll probably do the same. I already picked up the Mobil 1 but I'm probably going to pick up some dino oil and run it for a couple hundred miles to flush things out then put Mobil 1 back in.
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Old 12-23-2003, 09:31 AM   #13
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It was just leaking oil... so I'll keep what is in there a little longer. The Dealership didn't give me any special instructions for a quick oil change.
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Old 01-16-2004, 02:17 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by silver02ws6
I was going by bulletin # 03-06-01-010B....
I have the torque specs for the intake bolts in the TSB. I also have the Haynes manual and hopefully I can find any other specs I need on the net. .
So what is the tourq specs for the LIM and rockers?
I'm putting the GA back together tomarrow.
Thanks
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Old 01-16-2004, 02:26 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by jeffescortlx
So what is the tourq specs for the LIM and rockers?
I'm putting the GA back together tomarrow.
Thanks
The Rockers at 128Inch lbs + 90 Degrees I think. cant remeber the LIM specs
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Old 01-16-2004, 02:47 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by Blackrider
The Rockers at 128Inch lbs + 90 Degrees I think. cant remeber the LIM specs
Thanks
I did notice that the last machanic used "orange" RTV??

And it did'nt take much to break the LIM bolt's loose, not much at all.
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Old 01-16-2004, 05:56 PM   #17
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Sorry but the specs I've got are for a 2000 Grand Am. In case anyone needs them for a 1999+ here they are from my Haynes manual:

rockers arm bolts:
step 1: 89 in lbs
step 2: 168 in lbs + 30

For the LIM bolts I used the specs from the following TSB:
Engine Oil or Coolant Leak (Install New Intake Manifold Gasket) #03-06-01-010B

You should check the Haynes manual for your specific year because they're probably different from above. Check the TSB to see if it applies to your vehicle.
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Old 01-16-2004, 06:03 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by silver02ws6
Sorry but the specs I've got are for a 2000 Grand Am. In case anyone needs them for a 1999+ here they are from my Haynes manual:

rockers arm bolts:
step 1: 89 in lbs
step 2: 168 in lbs + 30

For the LIM bolts I used the specs from the following TSB:
Engine Oil or Coolant Leak (Install New Intake Manifold Gasket) #03-06-01-010B

You should check the Haynes manual for your specific year because they're probably different from above. Check the TSB to see if it applies to your vehicle.
please dont mix up Inch pounds with foot pounds I have seen that one to many times
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Old 01-17-2004, 10:06 PM   #19
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I'll be in the process of doing the same thing to my car soon, was there anything in particular that was difficult to do that you didn't expect, just wondering, would be nice to get a heads up before I start taking it apart myself.
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Old 01-18-2004, 07:53 AM   #20
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DONT PUT DEXCOOL BACK IN THERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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