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Old 03-16-2017, 06:38 PM   #21
plastic_indian
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If the antitheft learn has been properly completed and the car remains CNS with a security telltale, it is time to retrieve trouble codes. As with many (maybe most) "DIY out of ideas please help!!!" threads, far too many variables are now in play -- what are the chances the original problem is resolved with matched modules, but a new problem was inadvertently created during the early troubleshooting steps? Undo any workarounds (like the 2.2kohm resistor), make absolutely certain the key related parts are correct for the application and installed properly. Speaking of, exactly what was replaced? Lock cylinder only? Switch? Housing w/passlock sensor? All these are different...
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Old 03-22-2017, 01:50 AM   #22
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I went through yesterday and checked just about every fuse under the hood and in the cabin. Every single one was good. Even switched some relays around to make sure it wasnt any of those. Not sure where to go from here. I feel like ive tried everything.
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Old 03-22-2017, 03:18 PM   #23
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My 02 did this but I found the gremlin in short order. I installed an aftermarket stereo in mine and to retain the factory chimes and have all the factory speakers and tweeters it required an after market module that sits behind the stereo and plugs direct into the factory harness.

I got about 2 years use out of this module when one day for no apparent reason the car wouldn't start. Lights were strong, lots of juice and yes security light!! After re-learn nothing!! Pulled battery for 10 minutes nothing!!

This is when I learned the data bus ties into our radio units somehow. Removed the after market module and BAM!! The car started with no security light! Thinking coincidence?? I plugged the module back in and was back to no start!! Needless to say I replaced the aftermarket module and been fine since. Obviously an after market module isn't your issue as you don't have one.

Have you tried bypassing the theft lock?? Bottom line, your car THINKS it's being stolen
Trick it into NOT

Read this link word for word, don't miss a step!! Resistor very important, I modded mine this way never an issue again

http://www.bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm

Last edited by sugar ray; 03-22-2017 at 03:25 PM.
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Old 03-22-2017, 08:11 PM   #24
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Another option would be to delete the VATS system with HpTuners or DHP.

http://www.60degreev6.com/vb5/forum/...kill-vats-dead
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Old 03-23-2017, 02:17 AM   #25
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When i first got the car i changed the ignition switch, ignition lock cylinder, replaced the radio with aftermarket since it was locked(yes i used the proper module and whatnot), and now i put in matching bcm/pcm pair from an '00 with the same options. One of the first things i did was the 2.2k resistor which i installed on the wire harness that goes into the bcm following the bergerweb instructions step by step and ive checked my connections a million times. Trying relearns in between every single one of these steps with no change what so ever
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Old 03-23-2017, 02:50 AM   #26
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Also id love to disable the system completely but dont have access to a tuner and couldnt afford one at the moment. Unless someone wants to let me borrow theirs. Michael Jackson thinks someone should let me borrow theirs, i pay shipping of course.
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Old 04-25-2017, 10:16 PM   #27
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Did you ever get it figured out?
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Old 05-02-2017, 11:31 PM   #28
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Hey guys! So i went to sell the car as non-running and when the guy went to crank it, THE CAR STARTS RIGHT UP. I dedicated a whole month of trying to figure it out and all of a sudden it fires right up. So i ended up not selling it so i could keep working on it. The cat is completely clogged and got red hot in just a few minutes so im going to gut it this weekend. It idled pretty rough due to that. Also, i noticed what i think is a vacuum line on the left side of the motor near the alternator. It has a little cap on it but the cap has a hole in it. Is this supposed to have a vacuum line on it, capped or just open? I circled it in the pic.
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Old 05-02-2017, 11:34 PM   #29
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Btw the red security light stays solid red all the time still, but it fires up after putting some new gas in it and giving it a little throttle while trying to start it
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Old 05-03-2017, 07:06 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Hcates95 View Post
Hey guys! So i went to sell the car as non-running and when the guy went to crank it, THE CAR STARTS RIGHT UP. I dedicated a whole month of trying to figure it out and all of a sudden it fires right up. So i ended up not selling it so i could keep working on it. The cat is completely clogged and got red hot in just a few minutes so im going to gut it this weekend. It idled pretty rough due to that. Also, i noticed what i think is a vacuum line on the left side of the motor near the alternator. It has a little cap on it but the cap has a hole in it. Is this supposed to have a vacuum line on it, capped or just open? I circled it in the pic.
That is a vacuum port and yes, there is supposed to have a cap over it. If the cap is bad, then you need to replace as that will have a vacuum leak and cause rough idle and possible other things.
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Old 05-03-2017, 07:43 AM   #31
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Thats what i figured. I have a cap on it but the whole end of it is missing. When i covered it the idle got better. Thanks!!
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Old 05-13-2017, 10:44 AM   #32
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Nothing goes to that port, it's just supposed to be capped. I don't usually recommend gutting the cat. It's okay if it's temporary just to keep the engine running and diagnose problems. Some cars can actually run worse with the cat gutted than with a functioning one though, and it will throw a check engine light. How many miles are on the car? The convertor is supposed to last at least 100,000 miles, and after that they usually are just less efficient but still flow good enough until they get an extreme amount of miles. A plugged cat is usually a sign of some other engine issue that needs to be addressed, IE burning coolant or oil, running excessively rich, misfiring, etc. Get the engine issues fixed, then put a new cat on it.
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