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Old 01-12-2020, 03:42 PM   #1
Hawkeye1980
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Cant start my 2005 Grand Am GT

Hope all are well. Been away for some time. Restoring my 1989 Formula 350, almost done.

So had to jump start a car. Unfortunately I used a key for my GT that was heavy with other keys. I never had the dealer fix the recall.
Now it won't start. Security light just comes on and never blinks. I bought a new ignition lock and system. I had trouble with the settings the new ignition to my original key but that is fixed. I soldered in a 2200 ohm resistor next to the ignition module. Cut the yellow, stripped the black one to bypass the security.
So still it won't crank, security stays on solid, never turns off. No codes either. Just installed new battery. I can hear the fuel pump prime as well. But still solid security light and won't crank.

This car has served me very well please help!
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Old 01-12-2020, 08:20 PM   #2
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Reading through the forum, not finding help on my problem, even though a few have had the same issue:
security light stays on
No crank
Internal lights, radio, remote trunk release. key fob not working.

I knew my ignition lock was going bad, I just forgot not to put a key that had weight attached on it. I was jumping my mini van and my lighter key chain was on it.
I am wondering did the jumping of my mini van burn out my starter? or my PCM?

I HATE GM security. I have the VATS on my 89 FIrebird, simply plugged in an after market module and no more problems. I want to disable this garbage on my 2005 GT. HELP!!

thanks in advance.
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Old 01-12-2020, 11:58 PM   #3
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Does it turn over? I have done the bypass on an older F body but I didn't think that worked with these cars. If it cranks over, then flashing the computer to disable VATS might be the easiest fix. If the weight of the keys is causing a physical issue with the ignition switch, then it won't do anything.
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Old 01-15-2020, 03:12 PM   #4
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Does it turn over? I have done the bypass on an older F body but I didn't think that worked with these cars. If it cranks over, then flashing the computer to disable VATS might be the easiest fix. If the weight of the keys is causing a physical issue with the ignition switch, then it won't do anything.
Thanks for responding. No it does not turn over all. No clicking, nothing. Just the fuel pump primes. Driving me nuts. The SECURITY light stays on solid. Even after 10 minutes. Tried the 30 minute re learn, no go.

I am wondering if when I jumped my mini van something burned out? Next is to try to jump the starter and see if if at least spins.
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Old 01-15-2020, 10:59 PM   #5
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Check the fusible links if you already replaced the ignition lock. I bypassed my 99 like you did and have not have any problems with it. Make sure you followed the instructions from here:
http://www.bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm
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Old 01-17-2020, 08:52 AM   #6
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Definitely check the starter, i had an intermittent one years ago.
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Old 01-19-2020, 06:49 PM   #7
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I would check the wiring to the starter. Make sure they all have continuity.
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Old 01-27-2020, 11:55 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pongagt View Post
Check the fusible links if you already replaced the ignition lock. I bypassed my 99 like you did and have not have any problems with it. Make sure you followed the instructions from here:
http://www.bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm
thanks will do. The weather has been bad so I have not had a chance to try anything new yet.
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Old 01-27-2020, 11:55 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by nivek98 View Post
Definitely check the starter, i had an intermittent one years ago.
I may just replace it Its the original and the car has over 220k on it thanks.
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Old 01-27-2020, 11:57 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by AaronGTR View Post
I would check the wiring to the starter. Make sure they all have continuity.
will do.

I bought a remote starter switch from Advance Auto The kind that has 2 leads with a push button. For bump starting, etc.. What terminals do I hook it up to please?
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Old 01-28-2020, 01:53 PM   #11
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Terminals on the starter. One has a big wire which has the 12 volts.. then the other terminal with smaller wire. Third wire is ground. Pushbutton shorts these two together and engages starter motor. Probably able to find the right wites behind the ignition also, but over my head.
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Old 01-29-2020, 09:06 PM   #12
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I don't see how it could be a bad starter because of the accessories that don't have power. Check the high amperage fuses on the fuse block under the hood and check the pcm like the person did in this article.
https://www.justanswer.com/pontiac/3...on-switch.html
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Old 03-08-2020, 11:43 AM   #13
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Angry

thanks for the feedback all. Sorry for the long delay in responding. So I am working on this today. I can get the stupid remote starter switch on the start because its to tight from the top and I cant drive it to put it on drive up stands. I have tried 2 2200 resisters, one was soldered the other i used a terminal block thinking the solder burned out the other resister. Ran through the stupid 30 minute blah blah blah. NOTHING

The security light stays on, it NEVER blinks and here is the rest:
The dash works
The interior lights DONT WORK AS ALL
There is NOT TURNOVER as all, NOTHING, not even a click

What I have done so far:
30 minute reset process 5 times
Owners manual says leave the key in on position until the security light goes off, it NEVER DOES.
New battery
New ignition switch, the key lock and the black part it goes into
Swapped relays in the fuse block in the engine compartment
used 2 different 2200 ohm resisters

The cause again, I put a heavy set of keys in the lock on my big chain to start the Grand Am so I could jump my van. The van had the set that I normally used with the factory GA key. Once I got the van started, I shut of the GT and now this, nothing. I cant help but wonder if I burned somthing else out. There is not corrosion on the terminals they are all clean.

SO what is this because I am either going to have this towed to a GM dealer or burn it. I REALLY HATE this passlock GM GARBAGE!

It was so easy to bypass on my 89 Formula 350.

Please anyone HELP!
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Old 03-08-2020, 11:57 AM   #14
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Update, friend came over with a jack. Attached the starter remote button. Put the key in the on position. Press button. Nothing, Dead starter??

Its the original from the car.
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Old 03-08-2020, 12:12 PM   #15
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2nd update. The car does start with the remote button, runs only a few seconds. so this definitely electronic with the STUPID pass lock. I am at a loss on this now. I have searched all over the web, cant find anyone with my exact problem:

Security light stays on, never goes off never blinks
No crank at the key
Relearn process fails with 2200 ohm resister in place
Internal lights off, trunk release button on door does not work

Now i am wondering if the BCM is bad.
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Last edited by Hawkeye1980; 03-08-2020 at 12:18 PM.
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Old 03-09-2020, 07:45 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Hawkeye1980 View Post
2nd update. The car does start with the remote button, runs only a few seconds. so this definitely electronic with the STUPID pass lock. I am at a loss on this now. I have searched all over the web, cant find anyone with my exact problem:

Security light stays on, never goes off never blinks
No crank at the key
Relearn process fails with 2200 ohm resister in place
Internal lights off, trunk release button on door does not work

Now i am wondering if the BCM is bad.
I would pull the BCM and check for corrosion on the terminals as well as the connectors. These cars are famous for the cowl to leak, which leaks over the top of the BCM. You can search in the forums as well as the web for this problem. Most people with this problem, is able to clean the terminals and connectors, but some had to replace the BCM and connectors.
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Old 03-09-2020, 04:28 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pongagt View Post
Check the fusible links if you already replaced the ignition lock. I bypassed my 99 like you did and have not have any problems with it. Make sure you followed the instructions from here:
http://www.bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm
Thanks man I did. But no good. I found a working BCM on ebay and bought it. my heavy key set started this whole problem. I just wish I knew why with all I have dont nothing has changed.
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Old 03-09-2020, 04:30 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Madness10 View Post
I would pull the BCM and check for corrosion on the terminals as well as the connectors. These cars are famous for the cowl to leak, which leaks over the top of the BCM. You can search in the forums as well as the web for this problem. Most people with this problem, is able to clean the terminals and connectors, but some had to replace the BCM and connectors.
I looked them over and they are clean. But who knows. Its just so odd a heavy key set created this mess. A new cylinder lock and ignition module later, no go. I have a working BCM on order.

The starter is fine, I tested it.
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Old 03-09-2020, 09:02 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Hawkeye1980 View Post
I looked them over and they are clean. But who knows. Its just so odd a heavy key set created this mess. A new cylinder lock and ignition module later, no go. I have a working BCM on order.

The starter is fine, I tested it.
By any chance, do you have an aftermarket alarm installed?
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Old 03-09-2020, 10:26 PM   #20
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By any chance, do you have an aftermarket alarm installed?
No I dont. At this point I have BCM and another key lock on the way. I got to get this car going. I found an ECM with a warranty as well. Before I go that route I will be cleaning the electrical contacts. Mine are clean and there is no water damage that I can see.

Its very frustrating.
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