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Old 02-10-2011, 12:30 PM   #1
turdstangjunk69
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transmission differences by year for GT?

Just wondering what the differences are for transmissions in GAGT'S. I called a local yard and he said the 99 and 2000's are in a group then the 2001-2003's are in another then 2004's are in their own spot? I got a 2000 GAGT and it needs a trans but I was wondering about about puttin a newer one so I can get lower miles on it...thanks
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Old 02-10-2011, 12:54 PM   #2
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Pretty sure all of the auto trans are exactly the same.
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Old 02-10-2011, 01:02 PM   #3
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Yeah I just need to make sure there won't be any issues cause once I buy it its mine. Not returnable. As long as the computer agrees with it they should all be the same I would assume? I just wasn't sure of any computer problems I might have if its from a newer GA.
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Old 02-10-2011, 01:13 PM   #4
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I think its a computer for 99 then 00+ is the only difference but pretty sure that won't effect the transmission. But someone else could probably confirm that. I never went into something like this for my car.
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Old 02-10-2011, 04:07 PM   #5
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The autos are basically all the same. As long as it's a 4T45e you'll be fine. I like your thinking, newer is better (GM actually improved the internal parts in the newer ones to make them stronger). I scored one with 17 miles on it, some kid ruined his graduation car the first day!
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Old 02-10-2011, 04:19 PM   #6
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They did make improvements to them over the years, but functionally they are all the same. IE you can bolt in an '03 trans to your car it will work exactly the same. In fact, they made improvements that will work for your trans up through '05, so the newer the trans you can get with the least miles, the better.
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Old 02-11-2011, 06:50 AM   #7
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Ok that's weird. I wonder why they have them in seperate year groups like that then? As long as there will not be any issues with the computer in the car or anything crazy I will get the lowest mileage and newest year I can get.
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Old 02-11-2011, 07:32 AM   #8
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just make sure the final drive ratio is the same as that can change from trans to trans and will cause you some ECU hiccups
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Old 02-11-2011, 07:35 PM   #9
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Ok so as long as the final gear ratio is the same there will NOT be any issues? I found an 04 trans with 21k miles on it for 450$. Got to check both ratios in my car and on possible new trans. How bad of a job is this gonna be to do to swap these transmissions? Thanks very much
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Old 02-12-2011, 01:14 AM   #10
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Not an easy job unless you have access to a hoist. Basically just disconnect the driveshafts, disconnect the trans fluid and electrical lines, unbolt from engine and remove. Install is the reverse. Good luck.
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Old 02-12-2011, 07:33 AM   #11
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Yeah, easiest thing to do would be check the RPO codes on the car you are getting the trans from. Since yours is a GAGT it will be a 4T45E trans with a 3.29 final drive ratio. The trans RPO code is MN5 and the FDR code is FR9. Obviously if you pull a trans from another GAGT it will be the same, but if you get one from a different car it will be fine as long as the car has those two codes listed.
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Old 02-13-2011, 05:18 PM   #12
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Ok then in that case I will order the trans Monday morning and hopefully get it in this weekend.
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Old 03-15-2011, 11:40 PM   #13
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Does this mean a transmission from a 2005 Malibu or a G6 might work?
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Old 03-16-2011, 12:25 AM   #14
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Don't have to pull the engine to change the tranny? I have been looking for one also. Mine slips only under heavy acceleration but not by much. I have thought about changing it but just haven't understood how. If i don't have to pull the engine that narrows it down
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Old 03-16-2011, 02:43 PM   #15
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You can do the tranny without the engine. I swapped out my transmission about 5 years ago and its right around the point my first one started to fall apart at 130K Im going to put in a third one but I was curious if the G6 tranny will work from 05. I believe it has the same code numbers but I know the G6 used a TCM to control the tranny. Reason being I can find G6 transmission for much cheaper.
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Old 03-16-2011, 02:49 PM   #16
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Im currently doing tranny swap in class right now i just pulled engine out the top un bolted fly wheel from torque converter took old tranny off put new one on and everything's going fine, i got a tranny its a 4t45E but a 3.15 ratio
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Old 03-16-2011, 03:33 PM   #17
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What I did the first time was dropped the transmission/subrame from underneath the car and left the engine mounted in. I was thinking for the next time around to just unbolt everything strait underneath. Leave the the engine and tranny together, drop the subframe with axels/knuckles/control arms intact. This seems to be a logical idea for some reason...
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Old 03-16-2011, 04:27 PM   #18
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It's actually easier IMO to take the engine out the top first and then the trans out the top. I think disconnecting the subframe and suspension is more work, plus you have to get an alignment afterward. And if you leave the engine in you have to make a fixture to support it in the engine bay while you drop the trans out, since the trans is mostly what holds the engine.

Doing it the other way is only easier if you are a dealership/shop with a lift and an alignment rack readily available.
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Old 03-16-2011, 04:37 PM   #19
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Quote:
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It's actually easier IMO to take the engine out the top first and then the trans out the top. I think disconnecting the subframe and suspension is more work, plus you have to get an alignment afterward. And if you leave the engine in you have to make a fixture to support it in the engine bay while you drop the trans out, since the trans is mostly what holds the engine.

Doing it the other way is only easier if you are a dealership/shop with a lift and an alignment rack readily available.
Yeah i was goign to drop the crate at the beginning but just decided to take it out the top its really easy, just take off upper intake manifold disconnect fuel lines, drain coolant disconnect all the coolant hoses, and anything else. take the radiator off, then make sure you disconnect all connections, there are grounds on the starter so i took front engine mount off to get to them. then theres a clip under fuse box you can press up slide it out, then un bolt brake fluid from brake booster, then take it out the top
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Old 03-16-2011, 04:43 PM   #20
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Yeah i was goign to drop the crate at the beginning but just decided to take it out the top its really easy, just take off upper intake manifold disconnect fuel lines, drain coolant disconnect all the coolant hoses, and anything else. take the radiator off, then make sure you disconnect all connections, there are grounds on the starter so i took front engine mount off to get to them. then theres a clip under fuse box you can press up slide it out, then un bolt brake fluid from brake booster, then take it out the top

You don't have to remove the underhood fuse panel or anything with the brakes. I didn't when I did mine. You have to take the radiator fans and shroud out but not the radiator itself. Its a bit of a squeeze but it can be done. It's even easier if you take the engine out separate and then the trans. That makes them both a lot smaller and lighter than if they are together.
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