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Old 11-16-2017, 12:08 PM   #41
AaronGTR
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AaronGTR has made plenty of valid pointsAaronGTR has made plenty of valid points
Like I said, there are more than one person I've heard from who ordered parts then never received them and could never get a hold of Mike.

Then there was the billet cams he sold people that ate their oil pump drive gears that he didn't warn people about.
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Old 11-17-2017, 12:51 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by tw0123 View Post
Oh believe me, i saw all the emails and invoice...

After the car was picked up it was completed with fabricated parts by someone else in less than 3 months outside in another guy's backyard after his regular job...

This guy spews a lot and people see right through it... There's enough complaints out there, not on a basically dead website that supports his business... I've formed my opinion and won't change it... I'll never deal with him period.
I'm not sure what exactly it is people are supposed to see through when I am being as transparent as possible. There's two sides to every story. You're apparently very familiar with his side, so familiar in fact that you swear up and down it was 3 years, and it was $3k, eventhough all the evidence proves it was clearly not. Meanwhile, here I am with my story, which I'm sure is different than his. The difference is though that my story has all the facts to back it up. I can copy and paste all the de-mails if you guys want. Where is his proof?

What's funny is the deal went south because the customer demanded I promise to deliver by December 31st, and I refused, and he said this other guy promised to do that, which was about 4 weeks after he picked up the car. And the guy still took 3 times the amount of time he said. I also heard down the grape vine that the car still isn't right, and now it's for sale. Had he left it here, it might have been done in December, but probably in January, but it would have been right. It's not my fault he chose to pick it up unfinished. I do have his signature though, on the paperwork he signed when it left stating, "Customer decided to cancel the project before it was completed by Milzy Motorsports, but Customer agrees that the work performed is satisfactory, and Milzy Motorsports has no liability to complete the remainder of the work. Customer can not also hold Milzy Motorsports responsible for any work performed by another party after it leaves Milzy Motorsport's facilities."
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Old 11-17-2017, 12:52 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by Madness10 View Post
Hey, Tim. Who was it that didn't receive his parts in over a year and had to pay a restocking fee for parts that he never received?
feel free to name names, so I can clear all this up
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Old 11-17-2017, 01:35 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by AaronGTR View Post
Like I said, there are more than one person I've heard from who ordered parts then never received them and could never get a hold of Mike.

Then there was the billet cams he sold people that ate their oil pump drive gears that he didn't warn people about.
As I said, everyone gets their parts. We make a lot of parts custom or one-off. These parts take time to make sometimes, especially considering how busy our fabrication department has been as long as I can remember, and even more so when we depend on vendors or other manufacturers to complete the product. We keep pretty good inventory. Most parts ship out pretty quickly. PCM's usually ship 1-3 days after orders are placed, downpipes about a week, etc. Heads and cam packages about 4-6 weeks, although we've made efforts to streamline this by now having all of our 3500, 3800, 3800 Supercharged, and 3900 heads CNC machined instead of hand-ported, which hopefully will result in faster average turn-around times. Headers and turbo kits are what take us the most time to make, because they both require a lot of planning, large material lists, depending on other companies for material supply and processes like ceramic coating, and because when we make these items, it is only profitable to do so if we make multiples of those products. So lead-times vary on all our products, but it says on our website, and we recommend that if people are in need of their parts quickly, they should e-mail me or call me to see how long it would take to get their parts before they place the order.

As far as people not being able to get a hold of me. I am very busy. People can contact me via e-mail, or even by my personal cell phone number posted on my website. Currently our average wait time for e-mails is 1-3 days. If you've waited longer than that, maybe we haven't answered all the e-mails that came before yours, or maybe yours was accidently marked as read, and fell through the cracks. If you've waited that long without a response, by all means, send another e-mail. If you send an e-mail and you get a reply that says "I think this would be best to discuss over the phone. What's your number, and a good time to call?" This means that I feel this would be best talk over the phone because 1) it would take less time to explain in a phone call instead of an e-mail, 2) if this would require a back and forth conversation, one quick phone call can replace multiple e-mails back and forth saving time, especially if these e-mails are taking 3 days between each one for a response, or 3)You've asked a lot of questions or this is a big project that would benefit from a one-on-one conversation to figure out the best way to go. The main factor is providing the desired customer service as efficiently as possible so that I can cater to as many customers as possible with the limited amount of time I have.

As for phone calls, I get on average 60 incoming calls per day, some more, some less. This does not include outgoing calls where I'm talking to vendors or other manufacturers, or calling customers for clarification about their orders in case I find missing or incorrect information. So 60 phone calls per day. If I answered every one and talked for just 5 minutes each, and they were back to back to back to back to back, it would take 5 hrs of my day to talk to everyone. I don't have that much time. My average phone call is 15 minutes. If it's a detailed call about a big project, sometimes they take hours. I do many of my phone calls on the drive to and from work, which gives me an hour combined there. If I work late, and it's too late to call people, I don't have this time. Same for if I go to work early, and it's too early to call people. I also try to do some calls any time I'm driving to pick up parts, or maybe a couple on the way to and from lunch, etc. That's basically all the free time where I'm not working on cars. As much as I try to provide the best customer service I can over the phone, it is not my main priority. My main priority doing the work I was paid to do, which is working on cars and making the parts you guys pay us for. That's what keeps the doors open and the lights on, and that's what has to take priority.

Here are some guidelines to have better success getting in touch with me on the phone.

1) Call during business hours. Our typical business hours are 9am-6pm M-F (don't call at 5 am, don't call at midnight or 3 am, or anything like that).
2) Call one time, and leave a message with your name and number (don't say, "hey Mike it's me, I'm just calling to check on my order for my performance parts, give me a call back", and then hang up)
3) Wait for me to call you back (this usually happens that day or the next business day) If you call for an update, I will check the status of the update before I get back to you. The bigger the list of parts, the longer this takes.
4) If you don't hear from me after a couple days, call again and leave a message
5) I do answer limited calls on the weekend, if it's important, say I send you a PCM and you're having trouble with the security procedure, as I understand that your car needs to run immediately, not in a couple days from now.

I would say the reason people say they're tried to call me and don't get a call back is they don't leave a message. If you don't leave a message, I would have to dig through each of those phone calls to call everyone back in the order they called. This only happens if I have nothing to do at the shop, or if I am on a big trip to buy parts, and will be driving the whole day.

So that's about it. It's pretty common sense, but if you follow those guidelines you'll probably have more success getting in touch with me.
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Old 11-21-2017, 01:30 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AaronGTR View Post
Like I said, there are more than one person I've heard from who ordered parts then never received them and could never get a hold of Mike.

Then there was the billet cams he sold people that ate their oil pump drive gears that he didn't warn people about.
I forgot to respond to this the other day, my mistake. Back in the day I sold billet cams when other companies were selling regrinds and cams made from cast blanks. These companies spread rumors that my camshafts because they were billet would chew up the oil pump drive gear which was cast. I think this was happening back around 2007. Around the same time period, I talked to Tim Kaczun who was going to have us do some work to his car. So I talked to him about a plan to prove our case, and kill a couple other birds with one stone at the same time. So the plan was to take his car which at the time he had driven for if I recall 150,000 miles since we had put the camshaft in his car a couple years before. By far it was the most miles driven on our setup, and Tim also was the one who had ran a 13.9 with his grand am, so he not only had the highest miles, but also the fastest, and therefor I thought it would be the best candidate to really show the longevity of our parts, especially considering he told me his car hits 6800 rpm atleast 2 times every single day, once onto the highway on-ramp to work, and one coming home. So this isn't a car that gets driven by leisurely around town. So Tim drove the car here from Canada to my old shop in Miamisburg, OH. First we decided to dyno the car before we did anything to it, and see what it did. I don't remember the exact numbers, but it made somewhere above 200 at the wheels, which at the time I was pretty happy with. Looking back it would have been nice to put some of our headers on the car, but they didn't exist back then, so TOG's would have to do. After the dyno, we brought the car to the shop to tear down the engine to a shortblock, and inspect every part for wear and damage. I could not see any damage or wear to the oil pump drive, and compared it to a couple I had laying around. I had one that was out of a 7,000 mile 3500 I had torn down, as well as a few out of high miles like 150-200k 3400's. I couldn't tell a difference. To get a second opinion, I took these parts to Marc over at TCE whose shop was down the street at the time, who had the same conclusion, but then we both decided the best way to put this to bed would be to send the parts to a gear manufacturer he deals with, and see what they have to say. I packed up 4 of the oil pump drives, and simply labeled them A, B, C, and D. I did not say which was which. After waiting a for their response, their conclusion was the same as ours each of the oil pump drives had virtually the same exact amount of wear, which is almost none at all. Then we put the engine back together. Next was to take the car back to the dyno, to see if there was any power gain from building the engine again, which would show us if we were losing power due to gaskets being worn out. I decided to try out a bunch of stuff while we were there also. In addition to the after gaskets dyno run, I also wanted to test out 65 throttle body versus 68mm throttle body on the 3400 ported intake, and also to test out the phenolic spacers that TCE made back then, and also the LT1 MAF I was thinking as offering as an upgrade for the 3400 guys. So first we did the after run. Then we installed the LT1 MAF and tuned the AFR for that. Then we installed the plenum spacers with the original 3400 ported intake. Then we installed the 3400 intake where we had added 1/4" of weld around the throttle body area to be able to port it up to a 68mm. Then we ran that intake again with the plenum spacers. The results of all this were actually pretty anti-climactic. Everything was within 1-3 whp of where we were the other day. The after run was the same as the before. The plenum spacers didn't add much if anything. The 68 throttle body was no better than a 65 due to the big bottle-neck just behind the throttle body on the 3400 upper, and the MAF gave negligible gains. The gains were not enough for us to say for certain that it was in fact a gain, and not a variance between dyno runs due to the conditions of that day or the car. I definitely posted about the events of that dyno day, and of the results of the oil pump drive testing. So I thought this was put to bed about a decade ago.

Since we began selling camshafts in 2004, not one single customer ever came to me with a damaged oil pump drive from our camshaft. Therefor it seems to me to just be propaganda to keep people from buying camshafts from us.


While I'm at it, you also brought up valvecover breathers. We either do a breather or a catch-can (which we basically run as a remote mounted breather) on every single turbocharged build we do for any engine, as well as any 3800 that we put a Gen V supercharger on. We put breathers on because we need to ventilate the crankcase to keep the excessive pressure from building up due to the boost. I have seen zero negative effects from this over the long term. In fact many high performance engines come with these sorts of breathes and still carry conventional multi-year warranties. The only reason this car in this post had a breather and not a catch-can was because we wanted to supply a Perrin catch-can, and this catch-can only had a 1/8" npt opening, and without completely modifying it, this would not flow enough volume. I couldn't get him to OK using a different catch-can as he was out of touch as I mentioned, so I went with the breather for now because it needed something to be able to run on the dyno, and I couldn't get approval on the alternate catch-can in time to make it to the dyno on our scheduled appointment.
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Old 11-21-2017, 02:16 PM   #46
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Before you sold cams, did you do any research on billet cams vs oil pump drives? When I brought up the issues they can cause, you had nothing to say about it. None of us on the forums knew the stock gears were melonized for the gen3 60V6s, which are ok with steel oil pump drive/distributor. You act like it was propaganda and rumors because you were ignorant on your product and are lucky you weren't modifying an engine with a regular iron gear.
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Old 11-22-2017, 10:49 AM   #47
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AaronGTR has made plenty of valid pointsAaronGTR has made plenty of valid points
I still find it hilarious that he's deleting PCV systems on street cars still.
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Old 11-22-2017, 11:35 AM   #48
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Intresting thread 🤔 makes me wonder is this why i havent i havent gotten my lx9 crank trigger...been 3 weeks no email just "awaiting shipment"
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Old 11-22-2017, 12:45 PM   #49
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^^^^ This. Another satisfied customer. Not. You have to give it a least another 3 months. ��
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Old 11-23-2017, 03:13 PM   #50
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i really don't get the whole deleting the PCV system since there have been tons of people who have left them intact and used the stock oil caps.

2 things i got from milzy were the pre-order of the front trans mount for the 99-05 grand am which i got in a decent time frame. and the tuned pcm which after monitoring it after i bought DHP was less than thrilled with that. i was getting stupid high amounts of spark knock sitting at a red light.
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Old 11-27-2017, 03:58 PM   #51
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Before you sold cams, did you do any research on billet cams vs oil pump drives? When I brought up the issues they can cause, you had nothing to say about it. None of us on the forums knew the stock gears were melonized for the gen3 60V6s, which are ok with steel oil pump drive/distributor. You act like it was propaganda and rumors because you were ignorant on your product and are lucky you weren't modifying an engine with a regular iron gear.
I don't remember what I did and did not have to say when you brought this up roughly 10-13 years ago. Feel free to copy and paste some old threads so I can then comment on that. What I can tell you is that I always do my own research. When I first started in 2002, I learned very quickly that even the specs posted from what I thought to be reputable websites were still inaccurate. Over the years, I've found errors in published pushrod lengths, torque specs, cam specs, and may others. I even had a Haynes manual that was written incorrectly for a Dodge Neon, and it instructed us to install the cam 180 out. Since that first time I got burned on something like that, I never assumed any unvetted information to be accurate, and always double-checked everything.
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Old 11-27-2017, 04:36 PM   #52
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i really don't get the whole deleting the PCV system since there have been tons of people who have left them intact and used the stock oil caps.

2 things i got from milzy were the pre-order of the front trans mount for the 99-05 grand am which i got in a decent time frame. and the tuned pcm which after monitoring it after i bought DHP was less than thrilled with that. i was getting stupid high amounts of spark knock sitting at a red light.
Who are these tons of people? How much boost are they running? How much power are they making? I would say if there are "tons of people" running PCV systems on turbo cars, they either are running so little boost they may not need to worry about it, or they need a breather and just don't know it.

As far as a PCM having knock at idle, that would clearly not be right. Maybe the sensor is bad, and is more sensitive than it should be. If the connector wiggles around at all, this would be the case. If you did have a genuine PCM problem, this is something to bring up right after you install it, and contact me to see what the best way to fix it would be. I do stand behind my work, but this is something to bring up when the problem arises, not years later in some random forum thread.
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Old 11-27-2017, 04:40 PM   #53
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Intresting thread 🤔 makes me wonder is this why i havent i havent gotten my lx9 crank trigger...been 3 weeks no email just "awaiting shipment"
Considering the fact that this car shipped out on October 6th, I would say this project had nothing to do with the fact that you haven't received a crank trigger yet. This is one of our most popular products we sell, and we've been on backorder on them for sometime now. I expect to be able to fill all current trigger orders later this week.
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Old 11-27-2017, 05:21 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by MilzyZ34 View Post
I don't remember what I did and did not have to say when you brought this up roughly 10-13 years ago. Feel free to copy and paste some old threads so I can then comment on that. What I can tell you is that I always do my own research. When I first started in 2002, I learned very quickly that even the specs posted from what I thought to be reputable websites were still inaccurate. Over the years, I've found errors in published pushrod lengths, torque specs, cam specs, and may others. I even had a Haynes manual that was written incorrectly for a Dodge Neon, and it instructed us to install the cam 180 out. Since that first time I got burned on something like that, I never assumed any unvetted information to be accurate, and always double-checked everything.
You want me to copy and paste where you had nothing to say about it?
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Old 11-27-2017, 09:18 PM   #55
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http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/showt...684#post849684

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I highly doubt any damage of this gear is occuring as there would most certainly be evidence of this damage 2 years after I sold the first batch of camshafts. However, enough people seem to be concerned about this to warrant some action on my part about it, so here's what I'll offer up for that...

Anyone who has one of my camshafts who is concerned about this issue can bring their car here for inspection, at which time I will remove and inspect the oil pump drive gear for damage at no charge for labor.
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Old 11-28-2017, 09:42 AM   #56
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The billet cam I got from him wore away half the teeth on my drive gear, sending iron filings through the engine and causing one of my pushrods and lifters to fail, wore out the oil pump internal gears and case so my oil pressure dropped, and accelerating wear on the cylinder walls so I had to have them honed over size and put in new pistons.

Oh, and I work in powertrain development at GM and we still run PCV systems on all our boosted engines, from 20 psi+ 4 cylinders to the new 750+ HP supercharged LT5. If anyone was really concerned about out flowing their PCV system and spiking crank case pressure, they could always install a larger line and/or a second PCV valve in the valve cover. Honestly though, I've never seen anyone spike crank case pressure because their PCV was inadequate. Usually it happens because of worn rings. The only way to tell if an upgrade is needed though, is to measure the crank case pressure with a gauge. So let me ask you Milzy, have you actually ever measured the crank case pressure on one of your cars (turbo or otherwise) to determine the need to change the PCV system?
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Old 11-28-2017, 11:14 AM   #57
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seems like I did have something to say ...

"I highly doubt any damage of this gear is occuring as there would most certainly be evidence of this damage 2 years after I sold the first batch of camshafts. However, enough people seem to be concerned about this to warrant some action on my part about it, so here's what I'll offer up for that...

Anyone who has one of my camshafts who is concerned about this issue can bring their car here for inspection, at which time I will remove and inspect the oil pump drive gear for damage at no charge for labor."

Seems pretty straight forward. I didn't believe this to be a problem, but offered anyone who wanted to come forward to have me inspect their oil pump drive for damage to do so for no charge.
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Old 11-28-2017, 11:23 AM   #58
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Originally Posted by AaronGTR View Post
The billet cam I got from him wore away half the teeth on my drive gear, sending iron filings through the engine and causing one of my pushrods and lifters to fail, wore out the oil pump internal gears and case so my oil pressure dropped, and accelerating wear on the cylinder walls so I had to have them honed over size and put in new pistons.

Oh, and I work in powertrain development at GM and we still run PCV systems on all our boosted engines, from 20 psi+ 4 cylinders to the new 750+ HP supercharged LT5. If anyone was really concerned about out flowing their PCV system and spiking crank case pressure, they could always install a larger line and/or a second PCV valve in the valve cover. Honestly though, I've never seen anyone spike crank case pressure because their PCV was inadequate. Usually it happens because of worn rings. The only way to tell if an upgrade is needed though, is to measure the crank case pressure with a gauge. So let me ask you Milzy, have you actually ever measured the crank case pressure on one of your cars (turbo or otherwise) to determine the need to change the PCV system?
Now I am confused.

I could have sworn a couple posts ago, Ben said this ... "None of us on the forums knew the stock gears were melonized for the gen3 60V6s, which are ok with steel oil pump drive/distributor."

So how is it that you magically had this problem? Also strange that you wouldn't have posted about these findings in the thread Ben copy and pasted in his last post.

If you work for GM, you would have to install PCV systems on everything, just as everything must have emissions components like catalytic converters, EGR valves, EVAP solenoids, and whatever else these engines would make it to the showroom floor with. A breather would not be an option as it would vent chemicals to the ambient air and then to the environment, which a car company cannot do because it is trying to be as green as possible.
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Old 11-28-2017, 02:48 PM   #59
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Literally had something to say, so congratulations on responding, but your response wasn't definitive or indicative to knowledge and research. It was reactionary to an issue that commotion knows about but you apparently didn't bother to check into. I didn't rehash this topic, but you wanted to make it sound like I posted a "rumor" to hurt your sales. Results like the build in this thread probably do more damage than anything I could say.
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Old 11-28-2017, 02:54 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MilzyZ34 View Post
Now I am confused.

I could have sworn a couple posts ago, Ben said this ... "None of us on the forums knew the stock gears were melonized for the gen3 60V6s, which are ok with steel oil pump drive/distributor."

So how is it that you magically had this problem? Also strange that you wouldn't have posted about these findings in the thread Ben copy and pasted in his last post.

If you work for GM, you would have to install PCV systems on everything, just as everything must have emissions components like catalytic converters, EGR valves, EVAP solenoids, and whatever else these engines would make it to the showroom floor with. A breather would not be an option as it would vent chemicals to the ambient air and then to the environment, which a car company cannot do because it is trying to be as green as possible.
Are you dense? Of course we didn't know about it at first... we found out after you sold us billet steel cams that wore down the stock oil pump drive gear. That doesn't happen with the cast iron drive gear on stock cams and on the cast blanks that Comp Cams makes.

As for the PCV system... yeah, we can't put a breather on because it wouldn't meet emissions regs... and also because it's f*cking stupid! I've talked with multiple engineers about it (the people who actually design the systems) and there is ZERO performance to gain from deleting it, and it has multiple purposes besides emissions.

So I'll ask again, have you actually measured and tested crank case pressure on any of the cars you've modified? Because if you haven't, you are making a pointless, and possibly negative change based on an unproven myth.
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