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Old 11-23-2011, 02:42 PM   #101
MAC the KNIFE
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...that is all


what inside your engine is copper lead and tin? the crank bearings?
what is that crank scraper made of?
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2009 G8 gt
no more Big Gears, buh-bye coilovers... illusions of making this a racecar have passed. 12.78 @112.. not a bad grocery getter
-still LOUD AS FCK though

2006 GTO completely stock. rip at 39k.

99 GAGT 108k miles, Borla cat-back, CAI, 65mm TB, EGR delete, WOT-tech intakes, F-Body Brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads.
Suede headliner, heated seats, jvc HU, infinity speakers+amp+subs, LEDs
-probably less than 1000 miles on it in the last 3 years...

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Old 11-23-2011, 05:06 PM   #102
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Crank and rod bearings are basically multiple layers of those. Crank scrapper is just steel. I know that's not the issue though. If that was touching I definitely would have heard it. I don't see how it could with 2mil+ clearance everywhere.

They give you universal averages with the oil reports, and iron/copper/lead/tin are usually 14/13/4/1. My previous reports the iron and copper where always a little bit high but lead and tin where always right on target. Now my iron and copper are even higher (58 and 384) and lead and tin are way out of range now too (238 and 26). I would say that's a pretty good sign one of the bearings is toast. No idea which one, but I'm betting on a rod. I'm going to see if I can get my friend to take a video of the noise with his phone friday or saturday and I'll post it up.

For now I've been doing some more oil research and I think I'm going to find some Mobil1 0w40. From what I've read the first number is a cold viscosity rating and the second is at operating temp. I looked at the actual cSt viscosity numbers rated at 40 and 100 degrees and it looks like the Mobil 0w40 will provide the best protection by being thin enough to lubricate well at cold start up but a little thicker than the 5w30 at full operating temp, which is where I'm losing the most oil pressure. Hopefully that will make it hold together until I can get it fixed.
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Old 12-06-2011, 08:59 PM   #103
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Made a short video of the knocking noise. Just got a mini digital video camera that I've been playing around with. Won it as a prize at my works Christmas party.

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Old 12-06-2011, 09:27 PM   #104
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That don't sound good at all...
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Old 12-06-2011, 10:26 PM   #105
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Dang dude....that doesn't sound good at all.
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Old 12-06-2011, 10:29 PM   #106
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Ouch!!!
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Old 12-06-2011, 11:33 PM   #107
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you always seem to have an issue with that thing. sounds like its time for the engine to come back out, or is that just the damn piston slap..
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Old 12-07-2011, 05:15 AM   #108
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what a disgusting sound...

on the plus side, that new camera takes good audio and vids.


so what is the next step?
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2009 G8 gt
no more Big Gears, buh-bye coilovers... illusions of making this a racecar have passed. 12.78 @112.. not a bad grocery getter
-still LOUD AS FCK though

2006 GTO completely stock. rip at 39k.

99 GAGT 108k miles, Borla cat-back, CAI, 65mm TB, EGR delete, WOT-tech intakes, F-Body Brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads.
Suede headliner, heated seats, jvc HU, infinity speakers+amp+subs, LEDs
-probably less than 1000 miles on it in the last 3 years...
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Old 12-07-2011, 05:50 AM   #109
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go back to who ever did the "rebuild" and i use that term loosely.

is this the same shop you had problems with before if so you really need to go somewhere else.
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Old 12-07-2011, 07:56 PM   #110
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No, I don't think it has anything to do with the shop. They only did the machine work on boring/honing the block, installed the cam bearings, and assembled the new pistons to the rods. I assembled the engine. I have no idea why it did this though since I didn't have any crank work or rod modifications done, and I used stock size replacement bearings. Only thing I can think is that the tolerance on one of the bearings was just off somehow, or it was caused by detonation... although it never ate a rod bearing before when it would see minor KR.

At this point I don't know which cylinder it is, or even what it is for sure. The engine is definitely going to have to come out at some point, but I don't have the capabilities to do this any more. I don't have another car to drive anymore, or access to a hoist or engine stand, or long term access to a garage. I'm going to have to take it to a shop and have them do everything this time unfortunately. I'll probably use the shop that did the other work for me since they are familiar with the engine. I have absolutely NO money for this right now either though since I just spent several thousand dollars rebuilding the engine last time, rebuilding the supercharger, and modifying other stuff on the setup.

For now, I just fixed a bicycle that I had that needed some work, and I'm going to ride that locally and drive the car as little as possible. I'm keeping it under 3k rpm and babying it. Luckily I live 1/2 mile from work and the grocery store, so there aren't a lot of places I need to drive. And also lucky I'm in FL right now and not a snow state!
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13.788 @ 103.73 mph (3/2011) 320 whp and 300 ft/lbs torque. (3/2011)
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Old 12-07-2011, 08:40 PM   #111
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Well that's what it sounds like to me piston slap. Sounds like wrist pin going. And you will get the same Oil contamination. But I guess time will tell when you get it apart again
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Old 12-07-2011, 09:11 PM   #112
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Dat rod knock.

3500 swap...poke...poke...
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Old 12-07-2011, 09:45 PM   #113
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3500 swap...poke...poke...
I agree ..... cammed 3500
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Old 12-07-2011, 10:34 PM   #114
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I agree ..... cammed 3500
Problem is it wouldn't be a GA anymore and he couldn't claim to be one of the few, the proud, the boosted.

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Old 12-08-2011, 04:54 AM   #115
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^really?? adding insult to injury is so classy
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2009 G8 gt
no more Big Gears, buh-bye coilovers... illusions of making this a racecar have passed. 12.78 @112.. not a bad grocery getter
-still LOUD AS FCK though

2006 GTO completely stock. rip at 39k.

99 GAGT 108k miles, Borla cat-back, CAI, 65mm TB, EGR delete, WOT-tech intakes, F-Body Brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads.
Suede headliner, heated seats, jvc HU, infinity speakers+amp+subs, LEDs
-probably less than 1000 miles on it in the last 3 years...
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Old 12-08-2011, 11:59 PM   #116
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Well that's what it sounds like to me piston slap. Sounds like wrist pin going. And you will get the same Oil contamination. But I guess time will tell when you get it apart again


Highly, highly unlikely... given that the engine was just bored and honed so the piston to wall clearances are tight, and all the pistons and pins are brand new.

And I don't think you would get the same oil contamination either. Wrist pins don't have the high lead and tin content that rod and crank bearings do. The labs commentary told me it was probably one of those based on the metal content of the oil.


But yeah, I'll know for sure when I'm able to get it pulled again. And no, I'm NOT doing a 3500 swap. No real benefit for barely a few extra CC's from what I'm running now, and I would have to buy more parts and do more modifications. If anything I would be tempted to do the 3500 top swap to lower compression to work better with the boost and try keep the detonation down, but really I'd rather try a meth/water injection system first. It should do a better job and actually allow me to run more timing without lowering compression.
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13.788 @ 103.73 mph (3/2011) 320 whp and 300 ft/lbs torque. (3/2011)
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Old 12-09-2011, 09:29 PM   #117
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But yeah, I'll know for sure when I'm able to get it pulled again. And no, I'm NOT doing a 3500 swap. No real benefit for barely a few extra CC's from what I'm running now, and I would have to buy more parts and do more modifications. If anything I would be tempted to do the 3500 top swap to lower compression to work better with the boost and try keep the detonation down, but really I'd rather try a meth/water injection system first. It should do a better job and actually allow me to run more timing without lowering compression.
If you are going to do a 3500 top swap you might as well do a complete 3500 swap. Especially as you need to remove your engine again any way.

You are going to have more money in fixing your current engine and doing a 3500 top swap than you would buying a complete low mileage 3500 along with the extras needed for the install.
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Old 12-09-2011, 09:39 PM   #118
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Well, I don't think there is any advantage in swapping in a 3500, and like I said I don't really want to do a top swap. The only reason I would is to lower the CR to control detonation, but meth/water injection would be better and that's what I plan to do. I already have a set of good worked over 3400 heads anyway, so I wouldn't need the 3500 stuff for flow.
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13.788 @ 103.73 mph (3/2011) 320 whp and 300 ft/lbs torque. (3/2011)
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Old 12-09-2011, 10:29 PM   #119
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Well, I don't think there is any advantage in swapping in a 3500, and like I said I don't really want to do a top swap. The only reason I would is to lower the CR to control detonation, but meth/water injection would be better and that's what I plan to do. I already have a set of good worked over 3400 heads anyway, so I wouldn't need the 3500 stuff for flow.
The point is, your bottom end is fu*ked.

3500's are cheap, produce more horsepower, and are stronger.

I think you are getting a bit too deep into thought about what to do with this car. We aren't a F1 racing team where every little nut and bolt will affect the car's performance.

We drive over-weight FWD Grocery Getters.

Put the 3500 in and join 2011
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Old 12-10-2011, 01:33 AM   #120
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U have spun a rod bearing...put money on it...if u wanna know which one, just stary pulling plug wires u know when u get to the bad one. Then shut it off and dont start it again before u destroy ur crank
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