GrandAmGT.com Forum
http://www.pfyc.com GrandAmGT.com Premium Memership Signup
RedlineGoods.com   

Go Back   GrandAmGT.com Forum > GAGT - Technical - Sponsored by www.MilzyMotorSports.com > HOW TO's

 
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Prev Previous Post   Next Post Next
Old 04-26-2009, 11:46 PM   #1
realestdriver
3500
 
realestdriver's Avatar
 
AKA: MJ
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Ruston, LA
Posts: 273
Vehicle: 1999 Grand Am GT 2dr
realestdriver Gettin' there
HOW TO: Swap in a 3500 (LX9)

URL to my photobucket pictures: http://s562.photobucket.com/albums/s...petitionready/



The first thing you should know is that the LX9 swap is not for beginners. If you wouldn't dare put heads on your car, then this is definitely not for you either. The project took me three days to complete, even with all my experience on N-body vehicles. One day for engine removel, one for swapping parts, and one for lx9 installation. I would rather motivate people than deter them, but you never want to get in over your head on a big project like this one.

*Swap was done on a 99' GAGT
*Engine taken from 06' G6 with 44k

1) You will want to have your engine side-by-side for the swapping of parts. I would start from the top and work my way down. I always do the upper intake manifold(UIM) and fuel rails first. I did everything simulatously, so excuse me if I only mention instructions for one engine. Take off the UIM and carefully take out the fuel injectors with wiring harness attached( one side at a time works ok). Carefully pop in the 3400 injectors still attached to the fuel rail on your 3500 LIM. At the point you will want to take your temperature sending unit from your old engine and screw it into the rear head on the thermostat side.
*99 GA guys don't forget to swap out the cam sensor
*The temp sending unit has been moved off the LIM and onto the side of the rear head, so need to extend the wiring harness for this sensor.

2) Place the UIM on if you have all injector plugged. Take off the black coolant pipe that runs around the side of the engine and attaches to the throttle body if you haven't already for the 3400. That needs to go on the 3500(could be optional, but doesn't work out well).

3) Swap over the oil pans, there is not a sensor on the bottom of the LX9.
* If your LX9 did not come with the bracket that bolts to the differential, you will need one to complete your swap. The 3400 brackets bolts to the block in a slightly different location.

4) Swap any sensors over that you see are different. There will be one on each side of the 3500 that you can just leave in(square plugs). Leave the crankshaft position sensor on the back of the engine in as well.

5) To install TCE external crankshaft pulley, take off crank pulley off from each engine. The underlaying crankshaft sensor (arched)from the 3400 needs to be swapped to the 3500. Put the 3400 pulley onto the 3500 block with the TCE wheel on the front. Tap it on some, then take a impact and snug it all the way up (make sure its in the notch). You'll need to loosen the TCE main piece to get it bolted to the block. Once you get it on the block, you can adjust it zero with the sensor in it.
*Make sure you slip the belt on before you insert the CPS in the crank trigger slot, because there will not be enough space to get it on after that without take the sensor out again.
*As most people know by now, the crank trigger is the most important part of this swap, because otherwise it will not work.

6) Swap out the exhaust manifolds, this is very easy. You will want to be careful when removing the manifold bolts on the LX9, because if you break even one off in your aluminum head, you will have an exhaust leak if you don't fix it. You might want to even find the torque specs for the manifolds.
*While you have the exhaust manifolds off, you will want to swap out the thermostat housings and heat core piping that wrap around the motor.

7) There will be several pieces on the passenger side of the motor that will need to be swapped to complete the serpetine belt setup and the motor mount. Make sure it has all the pieces of the original setup.
http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/s...y/102_0684.jpg

7) You're just about there, look over everything you've done and do a checklist. If you miss anything make sure its not on the bottom before you put it back in.

My LX9 has been doing good for over three years now. It has seen its share of abuse too, but it has been very dependable.

Milzy Motorsports makes a kit that help make this swap easier. It includes the crank trigger and addresses problems with a/c compressor spacing, wire extensions, coil pack bracket and rear motor mount location.

***You do not need to live and die by these instructions. Use common sense when it comes to swapping out necessary parts.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 100_0958.jpg (188.6 KB, 190 views)
File Type: jpg 100_0972.jpg (98.5 KB, 139 views)
File Type: jpg img064.jpg (169.8 KB, 232 views)
File Type: jpg 100_0960.jpg (138.1 KB, 144 views)
File Type: jpg 100_0968.jpg (154.2 KB, 158 views)

Last edited by realestdriver; 02-25-2013 at 12:23 AM. Reason: updates
realestdriver is offline   Reply With Quote
 

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:21 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.2
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2011 GrandAmGT.com
RedlineGoods.com