FastFWD Crank Pulley - Page 5

loudalero · 03-18-2003, 09:32 PM

It probably would have been cheaper and faster just to go to autozone I paided 31 dollars for mine

phantom505 · 03-18-2003, 09:35 PM

Faster maybe, but not for me. I live in the middle of nowhere. I asked for a gatorback belt, and they looked at me like I was a hydra. It only costs $30 inc shipping from pyfc. Saves me gas and a 2 hour round trip which runs me just about $10 by itself.

nfsga · 03-18-2003, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by phantom505

I asked for a gatorback belt, and they looked at me like I was a hydra .

Interesting wording there

phantom505 · 03-20-2003, 11:00 PM

Well that email they sent everyone was a bit disconcerting.....

Here it is for those who haven't bought one yet...
THIS ONLY APPLIES TO THE 3100/3400 GUYS!!!

I just wanted to let you guys know that there is a chance of the crank sensor ring coming loose when the engine gets hot and the pulley expands. This is due to the fact that aluminum in the pulley expands at a higher rate than the steel ring, so the clearance in creases. No everyone will have this problem, but I wanted to let you all know that it could happen. All the pulleys were made to exact same tolerances, but not all the rings are perfectly round, so the fit on each pulley will be a little different.

Here is the fix: You can either use a high temp epoxy to glue the ring into the pulley, OR you can send the pulley back to us with $15 and we will drill and tap the back side of the pulley and include some small stainless steel screws to hold the ring in. The $15 is to cover the machining cost, the stainless screws and shipping back to you. I wish I could do it free of charge, but since most of the pulleys sold for only $80 and I had to cover the initial tooling/design costs with that money, there is no way I can do it for free. If you would like to have it drilled and tapped, then you will need to send a money order with the pulley. If you have it to me by Wed of next week (I have to have it by then, not post marked by then), then we will set up to drill and tap the pulleys the end of next week and send them out soon after that. If you want to send it in later, it may take longer to get it done and back to you since we will wait till we have a small batch that needs to be done so we don’t have to tool up all the time. Please note that the price of the new pulleys has gone up since all the pulleys from this point forward will be drilled and tapped and include the screws, so you guys aren’t getting screwed on this. We aren’t making any money from this fix... its all going towards materials, machining and shipping. If you already have the pulley installed and don’t have any problems, then I wouldn’t worry about it (not everyone will have this problem) A high temp epoxy should work just as well (it saves you $15 and you don’t have to wait to get it back).

I guess I'll be epoxying mine, no way I'm sending it back now. But for the 10ish horsepower they claim it is still worth it. I'm glad to see that they are being responsible about this.

They have them listed for $115 now.

BTW, mine will go in tomorrow, I'll let you guys know how the epoxy goes.

Sternie · 03-21-2003, 11:41 AM

It's good to see that they're standing behind their products... and taking the steps to correct problems. I'll probably be ordering one sometime in the near future...

phantom505 · 03-21-2003, 04:37 PM

Utter failure....

I couldn't even get the bolt off the pulley. Three people tried and failed. <sigh> Plus I found out that you have to remove a motor mount in order to put that belt on/off. So I'll be taking it to a shop next week to have this done. I just don't have the tools required, or a paved place to do anything like lower an engine.

So be warned, be prepared for a lot of work, and make sure you have breaker bars etc.

jsos431 · 03-21-2003, 09:26 PM

Yeah I didn't want to go through the trouble so I am paying $50 to get it down. Good luck. I will let you know how it goes, my goes in on Wednesday of this coming week.

nfsga · 03-23-2003, 03:21 PM

If you are going to pay to get it done, I would suggest that you send it back to them to get drilled and the screws first.

blckgagt · 03-23-2003, 08:31 PM

i think im gonna order mine very soon. I was wonderin though, if i were to get a supercharger sometime in the future, would this mess it up. Im trying to plan ahead so i don't have to redo things and so on.

aleroboy · 03-24-2003, 02:33 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by blckgagt
i think im gonna order mine very soon. I was wonderin though, if i were to get a supercharger sometime in the future, would this mess it up. Im trying to plan ahead so i don't have to redo things and so on.

You would need a smaller SC pulley to maintain boost.

blckgagt · 03-24-2003, 08:52 PM

well i don't think it would be worth it in the long run then, so ill have to do without. I hope someone comes out with a new supercharger though, one that will work with the TOG headers

phantom505 · 03-24-2003, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by blckgagt
well i don't think it would be worth it in the long run then, so ill have to do without. I hope someone comes out with a new supercharger though, one that will work with the TOG headers

Which one is incompatable?? I know aleroboy has headers and a charger......

blckgagt · 03-24-2003, 09:14 PM

the eaton/mag works with it, but not the RSM, i heard clearance issues was a problem.

aleroboy · 03-25-2003, 12:37 AM

rsm is overpriced anyway.

phantom505 · 04-21-2003, 02:41 PM

Well I'm bumpping this for two reasons. Complaints in another thread and to say this pulley rocks. I did have the shop remachine the part because it took so long to get it installed. The screws work nicely and the sensor ring fits nice and snug.

I wish I had a baseline dyno, but at $50 a pop who can afford it.....

steve_m · 09-13-2003, 09:25 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by phantom505
Strike one.

Anyone else have this problem? Does anyone have a dyno the the 3.4L, or can someone explain to me why the 3.1L dynos are a good comparasion?

I have it on my 3.4L Alero and it is working fine. I am quite happy with it.

phantom505 · 09-14-2003, 07:02 AM

Wow, this post is a bit old. I think I've had the FFP on for about 6 months now.

illsmokeyou · 09-14-2003, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by phantom505
Wow, this post is a bit old. I think I've had the FFP on for about 6 months now.

really??? can you pm me or AIM me so we can talk? I need to find out how the hell to get rid of the P0336 code which I have had for months now.

phantom505 · 09-14-2003, 06:00 PM

I'm not sure what code that is, but I assume its a bad idle code.

Does your pulley have tapped screws or did you glue it in or is it just bare?

If you don't have tapped screws in it then I would say to get that done.

If you have done that I would say that they ring got damaged and you might need to salvage one.

illsmokeyou · 09-14-2003, 10:46 PM

the P0336 code is actually for "crankshaft sensor A bad performance/range", so yeah basically misfires, and thats why my SES light turns on the second turn of the key, and will stay illuminated till I reset the PCM. once the SES light illuminates, idle will continue to be controlled by the camshaft sensor (3X) until the problem is either fixed, or the PCM is reset, and then the same will continue.

But I need to find out exactly what is causing the Misfires, or the code 0336 to be set. I have checked everything, and all that I can figure is that I either damaged the ring as said before, or the ring Vs. sensor clearance is not correct, being that essentially, everything is expected to run within thousanths of an inch

03-18-2003, 09:35 PM	#82
phantom505 GAGTurbo Owner Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Heltonville, IN Age: 41 Posts: 1,576 Vehicle: '02 GAGT	Faster maybe, but not for me. I live in the middle of nowhere. I asked for a gatorback belt, and they looked at me like I was a hydra. It only costs $30 inc shipping from pyfc. Saves me gas and a 2 hour round trip which runs me just about $10 by itself. __________________ It's ugly, and turbocharged! 264 HP and 284 ft/lbs at the wheels(@9psi), power curve like none other! And the transaxle to make it all work!

03-20-2003, 11:00 PM	#84
phantom505 GAGTurbo Owner Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Heltonville, IN Age: 41 Posts: 1,576 Vehicle: '02 GAGT	Well that email they sent everyone was a bit disconcerting..... Here it is for those who haven't bought one yet... THIS ONLY APPLIES TO THE 3100/3400 GUYS!!! I just wanted to let you guys know that there is a chance of the crank sensor ring coming loose when the engine gets hot and the pulley expands. This is due to the fact that aluminum in the pulley expands at a higher rate than the steel ring, so the clearance in creases. No everyone will have this problem, but I wanted to let you all know that it could happen. All the pulleys were made to exact same tolerances, but not all the rings are perfectly round, so the fit on each pulley will be a little different. Here is the fix: You can either use a high temp epoxy to glue the ring into the pulley, OR you can send the pulley back to us with $15 and we will drill and tap the back side of the pulley and include some small stainless steel screws to hold the ring in. The $15 is to cover the machining cost, the stainless screws and shipping back to you. I wish I could do it free of charge, but since most of the pulleys sold for only $80 and I had to cover the initial tooling/design costs with that money, there is no way I can do it for free. If you would like to have it drilled and tapped, then you will need to send a money order with the pulley. If you have it to me by Wed of next week (I have to have it by then, not post marked by then), then we will set up to drill and tap the pulleys the end of next week and send them out soon after that. If you want to send it in later, it may take longer to get it done and back to you since we will wait till we have a small batch that needs to be done so we don’t have to tool up all the time. Please note that the price of the new pulleys has gone up since all the pulleys from this point forward will be drilled and tapped and include the screws, so you guys aren’t getting screwed on this. We aren’t making any money from this fix... its all going towards materials, machining and shipping. If you already have the pulley installed and don’t have any problems, then I wouldn’t worry about it (not everyone will have this problem) A high temp epoxy should work just as well (it saves you $15 and you don’t have to wait to get it back). I guess I'll be epoxying mine, no way I'm sending it back now. But for the 10ish horsepower they claim it is still worth it. I'm glad to see that they are being responsible about this. They have them listed for $115 now. BTW, mine will go in tomorrow, I'll let you guys know how the epoxy goes. __________________ It's ugly, and turbocharged! 264 HP and 284 ft/lbs at the wheels(@9psi), power curve like none other! And the transaxle to make it all work! Last edited by phantom505; 03-20-2003 at 11:09 PM.

03-21-2003, 11:41 AM	#85
Sternie Back-to-Back Champs! Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Duluth/Minneapolis, MN Age: 37 Posts: 247 Vehicle: 2000 Grand Am GT	It's good to see that they're standing behind their products... and taking the steps to correct problems. I'll probably be ordering one sometime in the near future... __________________ Sternie's Ride - Updated 10/20/03

03-21-2003, 04:37 PM	#86
phantom505 GAGTurbo Owner Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Heltonville, IN Age: 41 Posts: 1,576 Vehicle: '02 GAGT	Utter failure.... I couldn't even get the bolt off the pulley. Three people tried and failed. <sigh> Plus I found out that you have to remove a motor mount in order to put that belt on/off. So I'll be taking it to a shop next week to have this done. I just don't have the tools required, or a paved place to do anything like lower an engine. So be warned, be prepared for a lot of work, and make sure you have breaker bars etc. __________________ It's ugly, and turbocharged! 264 HP and 284 ft/lbs at the wheels(@9psi), power curve like none other! And the transaxle to make it all work!

03-25-2003, 12:37 AM	#94
aleroboy 340+ hp Club Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Colorado springs Age: 39 Posts: 1,854 Vehicle: 2001 Alero GLS coupe	rsm is overpriced anyway. __________________ really really slow right now.

03-18-2003, 09:32 PM	#81
loudalero GAGT - Member AKA: Todd Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Litchfield, MI Age: 44 Posts: 252 Vehicle: 2002 grand am gt	It probably would have been cheaper and faster just to go to autozone I paided 31 dollars for mine

03-21-2003, 09:26 PM	#87
jsos431 GAGT - Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Ohio Age: 39 Posts: 124 Vehicle: 2001 Grand Am GT Coupe	Yeah I didn't want to go through the trouble so I am paying $50 to get it down. Good luck. I will let you know how it goes, my goes in on Wednesday of this coming week.

03-23-2003, 03:21 PM	#88
nfsga GAGT - Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Atlanta, GA Age: 41 Posts: 150	If you are going to pay to get it done, I would suggest that you send it back to them to get drilled and the screws first.

03-23-2003, 08:31 PM	#89
blckgagt ~Turbocharged~ AKA: Randy Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Knoxville, TN Age: 37 Posts: 1,265 Vehicle: 99 GAGT, 07 Vette	i think im gonna order mine very soon. I was wonderin though, if i were to get a supercharger sometime in the future, would this mess it up. Im trying to plan ahead so i don't have to redo things and so on.

03-24-2003, 08:52 PM	#91
blckgagt ~Turbocharged~ AKA: Randy Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Knoxville, TN Age: 37 Posts: 1,265 Vehicle: 99 GAGT, 07 Vette	well i don't think it would be worth it in the long run then, so ill have to do without. I hope someone comes out with a new supercharger though, one that will work with the TOG headers

03-24-2003, 09:14 PM	#93
blckgagt ~Turbocharged~ AKA: Randy Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Knoxville, TN Age: 37 Posts: 1,265 Vehicle: 99 GAGT, 07 Vette	the eaton/mag works with it, but not the RSM, i heard clearance issues was a problem.

04-21-2003, 02:41 PM	#95
phantom505 GAGTurbo Owner Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Heltonville, IN Age: 41 Posts: 1,576 Vehicle: '02 GAGT	Well I'm bumpping this for two reasons. Complaints in another thread and to say this pulley rocks. I did have the shop remachine the part because it took so long to get it installed. The screws work nicely and the sensor ring fits nice and snug. I wish I had a baseline dyno, but at $50 a pop who can afford it..... __________________ It's ugly, and turbocharged! 264 HP and 284 ft/lbs at the wheels(@9psi), power curve like none other! And the transaxle to make it all work!

09-14-2003, 07:02 AM	#97
phantom505 GAGTurbo Owner Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Heltonville, IN Age: 41 Posts: 1,576 Vehicle: '02 GAGT	Wow, this post is a bit old. I think I've had the FFP on for about 6 months now. __________________ It's ugly, and turbocharged! 264 HP and 284 ft/lbs at the wheels(@9psi), power curve like none other! And the transaxle to make it all work!

09-14-2003, 06:00 PM	#99
phantom505 GAGTurbo Owner Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Heltonville, IN Age: 41 Posts: 1,576 Vehicle: '02 GAGT	I'm not sure what code that is, but I assume its a bad idle code. Does your pulley have tapped screws or did you glue it in or is it just bare? If you don't have tapped screws in it then I would say to get that done. If you have done that I would say that they ring got damaged and you might need to salvage one. __________________ It's ugly, and turbocharged! 264 HP and 284 ft/lbs at the wheels(@9psi), power curve like none other! And the transaxle to make it all work!

09-14-2003, 10:46 PM	#100
illsmokeyou enough said........ Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: LA county, CA Age: 39 Posts: 294 Vehicle: 2001 se sedan 3400	the P0336 code is actually for "crankshaft sensor A bad performance/range", so yeah basically misfires, and thats why my SES light turns on the second turn of the key, and will stay illuminated till I reset the PCM. once the SES light illuminates, idle will continue to be controlled by the camshaft sensor (3X) until the problem is either fixed, or the PCM is reset, and then the same will continue. But I need to find out exactly what is causing the Misfires, or the code 0336 to be set. I have checked everything, and all that I can figure is that I either damaged the ring as said before, or the ring Vs. sensor clearance is not correct, being that essentially, everything is expected to run within thousanths of an inch __________________ Crushing an ego near you!

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