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Old 10-19-2004, 12:33 PM   #21
AmIGrand
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Did you guys even read the original info post!? I just did a buddies '97 Civic a couple weeks ago. He shows up with a Dynomat fat pack and says to stop the insane rattling he gets with 2 ported 12W3v2's and 900 watts worth of V12 Expert power. I drop the car off later than day, and he listens to it and is like "DAMN!" - hardly anything at all. "How much of the Dynomat did you use?" I point to the unopened pack sitting in the back seat. "None. But you owe me $9 for the stuff I picked up at WalMart."

Folks, that was a $129 roll of Dynomat (he got it online for like$80). I will go back and use most of it to sound dampen the car and quiet down the ride, as well as to quell a couple of remaining resonances in a couple sheemetal panels. But I got rid of 90% of the rattling with 4 rolls of foam tape from Wal Mart, for under $10 total.

Just reiterating what I've said before....
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Old 10-19-2004, 05:00 PM   #22
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so what exactly do i do with the weatherstripping? take out the rear deck and put it under it?
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Old 10-20-2004, 09:27 AM   #23
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Whatever is rattling, take it apart , examine it to determine what it's rattling against and why, and insert the proper type and thickness of foam to stop it. Most people think it's the actual; trunk rattling, for instance - 90% of that noise is from the wires and cables running through the trunk lid for the tail lights and trunk release, or seperate panales back there (the Civic for example, has a seperate plastic piece around and behind the license plate, and no amount of Dynomat would stop that horrid rattle). I got 1 roll of 1/2" by 1/2" thick foam rubber stuff, 2 rolls of 1/4" by 1/4" foam rubber stuff, and one roll of 1/4" by 1/2" wide closed cell "crispy" foam stuff. Buy a lot of it, use a lot of it. It's WAY cheaper than mass loaded stuff, and more effective. Once you've quelled all the contact rattles, THAN apply some mat to reduce resonances in sheet metal and reduce road noise.
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Old 10-24-2004, 03:39 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AmIGrand
note that the title of this thread is "Sound damping and vibration elimination", not Sound DAMPENING. Damping means to damp, to reduce vibration. Dampening means to make damp, to make wet. Unless you're asking how to spray your car with water, get it right, or I WILL give you sh!t about it. ............

Dynomat more or less started the whole idea of a specialty mass loading material, and in my experience, is still the best.
its DYNAMAT.... LOL unless your looking to stop the leaking of Hazardous and Non-Hazardous liquids

www.dynomat.com

www.dynamat.com

:P
you now have a solution!!!
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Old 10-25-2004, 02:28 PM   #25
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Wow - I never noticed the bad spelling there, . Good call.
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Old 12-08-2004, 09:15 PM   #26
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i took my rear deck and back seat out and i noticed that the loud vibrations are coming from the speaker are and not the rear deck. i used foam all under the speakers and i could still hear it but when the speakers are just hagin there not in there slots there is no noise. I cant figure this out
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Old 12-11-2004, 03:35 PM   #27
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good thread!!!!
thanks
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Old 07-24-2005, 02:39 PM   #28
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so now i have to go trunk-diving to find a new rattle that just started...grrrrrrr!
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Old 07-24-2005, 03:02 PM   #29
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Wow, I can't believe I missed this one.

Here's a question, The exhaust pipe rattling. It hits the sheet metal right around the rear tire. People have said to ziptie it, but it doesn't hold up well and I would say it would melt. I was thinking of using Dynomat or something to sampen when it hits, but what else is there that I could use?

And yes, I know this is in the car audio/video section.
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Last edited by Panacea; 07-24-2005 at 03:04 PM.
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Old 08-27-2005, 09:01 PM   #30
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So is this from PFYC a rip off??



It's $74.99 and claims "They are molded from 100% acoustical dampening materials." Think this is worth a try or not?

And check out this eBay link: http://cgi.ebay.com/19405-DYNAMAT-Xt...QQcmdZViewItem

The seller wrote: When you want to say to your friends " I have money to blow on adhesive backed tarpaper-like products with logos" look no further.

Last edited by 2003_GAGT; 08-27-2005 at 09:07 PM.
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Old 09-03-2005, 10:56 AM   #31
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^^ Probably could make your own, for the fraction of the cost, with pretty much the same results.
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Old 09-27-2005, 09:47 PM   #32
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i just wanted to mention something since some people have been biased against dynamat thus far. first of all, i never use dynamat. dynamat extreme is probly the best performing sound deadening mat available on the market. but it's also the most expensive. you will get nearly equivalent performance with raammat or second skin spectrum. the difference between these products is mostly based on what was used. second skin and raammat and dynamat are all butyl-based. peel n seal, the crappy wal-mart stuff, that's all asphalt based. the butyl based deadeners have a higher absorption rate, better adhesion at high temperatures and cold temperatures, and are flat out a better performer. is it always going to be audible? not necessarily. but the pure physics of it suggest that it is a better, longer performing product.

nowadays, this is all negated by most liquid/foam deadeners available on the market. these are great for those spots where you could never get a piece of mat. they have better heat resistance as well, but can add a lot of weight to your vehicle.

just food for thought.
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Old 10-02-2005, 11:44 AM   #33
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What would be a good alternative for your trunk lid if you didnt want to use dynomat, raamat etc...
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Old 12-11-2006, 04:12 AM   #34
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I want to add something here as well. Everyone is confusing things, like they didn't even read the first post. Dynamat will not always take out your rattles. AmIGrand is explaining this perfect. Dynamat, even for what it is meant for, is retarded unless you get it wholesale, or second had.

Get rid of interior panel, wire, some body, license plate, speaker rattles with foam, rubber, or silicome strips. (beware of using silicone around rubber, as the vapor that is released as it dries can dry up and crack rubber)

Use Dynamat as damping material. Stop cancellation, stop reverberation, so flexing of panels (to some degree)... that is what it is meant for, not taking out the rattling of your interior trim.


Also.. for those of you that don't want to pay for dymanat, and realise that the more expensive stuff, is really only more expensive because it is thicker... go get what is called "Ice Guard" or "Water and Ice Shiel"... it is a roofing material that goes around the edges of a roof before shingling.... you may notice it bares a very striking resemblance to Dynamat EXTREME....

If you use ice guard though, it smells a lot more than dynamat... and is a little more difficult to use.. but use a lot of heat, a good roller, and have an area where you can safely leave the car doors open with heat for a day... and you are able to do your whole car, your buddys car, and your neighbours cat for less than it will cose you for a trunk kit of dynamat extreme...

Of course it isn't quite up to the par of Dynamat.. but here is the thin... chances are you arent running the best system anyways. (no offense, but what I mean is you arent really competing in an SQ comp are you??) Your ear will never know the difference. It will compliment your kickers just fine.. or your audiobahn, or your alpine.. or your sony...
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Old 02-16-2008, 08:01 PM   #35
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Well, here is my problem.

What would you recommend for daily driving noise? ie: road noise, body squeaks.

My Escape came with a factory "Mach" system with an 8 inch sub and factory amp. Whenever I have a hard hitting song playing, something vibrates. If I was to take say some high density foam and stuff behind the speaker, would that fix my problem? Or should I take some spray foam and spray back there?

Any advice would be much appreciated.
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Old 02-16-2008, 09:23 PM   #36
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Stuff an appropriate amount of foam into the problem area will work, provided that the area you're stuffing it into is actually the problem. Once that's done, move on to the next rattle that you hadn't noticed before, and the pattern will continue.

For overall noise reduction from road and wind, etc, the sound damping materials discussed here - dynamat & etc - work very well. Start witht he wheel wells & surrounding areas, the firewall, then the sheetmetal in teh doors and the floor boards. And so on. YOU DO NOT NEED TO COAT THE WHOLE AREA. A few well placed pieces will work wonders, work from there.
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2005 Pacific Blue Ion Redline, competition package, set up for SCCA Stock class, Koni Yellows/Hawk pads/Powergrid endlinks/245/40/17 BFG R1's for race day...
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Old 02-19-2008, 03:31 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AmIGrand View Post
Stuff an appropriate amount of foam into the problem area will work, provided that the area you're stuffing it into is actually the problem. Once that's done, move on to the next rattle that you hadn't noticed before, and the pattern will continue.

For overall noise reduction from road and wind, etc, the sound damping materials discussed here - dynamat & etc - work very well. Start witht he wheel wells & surrounding areas, the firewall, then the sheetmetal in teh doors and the floor boards. And so on. YOU DO NOT NEED TO COAT THE WHOLE AREA. A few well placed pieces will work wonders, work from there.
Well, I fixed my vibration problems today. Took some carpet padding and stuffed behind the factory sub in an open space. Then when I went to bolt down the speaker/amp assembly I placed some rubber washers between the bolts and the sheet metal. Now it's a nice solid thump with no rattling or vibration.

Carpet padding = $0.00 Got some scrap from a flooring store.

Rubber washers = $0.50

Thank you AmIGrand for your help.
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Old 02-19-2008, 08:02 PM   #38
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That's what I'm here for, glad it worked out so easily!
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Old 03-19-2008, 10:36 AM   #39
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Anyone have a solid way to prevent the disturbing rattling noise that comes from the mirror???, It only rattles when my sub hits really hard. Its not horrible but I would much rather have a rattle proof care.
Thanks!
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Old 03-19-2008, 10:39 AM   #40
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I think the rattle you're talking about is with the actual mirror and it's bezel right? I took a very tiny piece of light foam and stuck it down between the two, eliminating the contact.
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