SE to GT Rear Disc Conversion

[lightningGA]

Originally posted by illsmokeyou
basically it is a whole assembly, but of course you wont need the rotors or pads as I have shown because you WILL be buying new ones ..... but everything else is reuseable as shown.

The red circles are the bolts which you need to make sure you get with the assembly, and necessary nuts at the ends.

I also showed with red hash marks, how much of the brake cables and lines you need to make sure you have

for the ebrakes, you need to make sure the ends of both sides look exactly like what is shown in the picture, and are not cut or severed.

For the brake lines, you need to make sure again that you have at least up until the red hash mark shown. Anything after that will not be used, and you can notice that my junk yard sereved the steel brake line at the ends of both brake lines, however they will not be needed, and bolt directly on to your stock SE steel lines

cool that's what I needed to know.....so just take out those 4 bolts and I have what I need.....sweet!!! Going Friday if the weathers good

[EBlend]

Originally posted by illsmokeyou


The red circles are the bolts which you need to make sure you get with the assembly, and necessary nuts at the ends.

don't need those bolts, same once as on the SE, can be reused from the SE

[Wallflower]

There are actually five bolts. I posted a link earlier in this thread to a parts list and short how-to on GAOC, although without pics. If I had a scanner, I would post up pics right off the GM computer. I have not done mine because time and money have not been on my side.

[Aleromi]

Question maybe dumb but Y are some of u guy just buying the whole spindles? .. Y not buy the whole rear suspesion buy removing 4 bolts from the body and just remove the lower struts bolts and then get new brake lines...

Just to me seams simpler....

[illsmokeyou]

that would require more $$$$ , and if your gonna upgrade, youd better make it KYB, or something aftermarket, and NOT stock struts, and all 4 are gonna run you about another $250. Besides the brake lines on the SE and GT are the same, so if your gonna want to upgrade again to SS lines, your looking at another $100

Remember I spent $350 on everything, so add on another $350 and you can see this is starting to get very pricey .... my stock struts are still good, ill keep 'em

Wallflower is right, there is actually 5 bolts, just that the picture doesnt really show the exact location of the 5th, and eblend is correct as well, the SE and GT bolts are the same, I just wanted to makle sure I had ALL the parts off the Alero in case I ran into any issues.

true rear drums suck hardcore, but when I drive my GT, I absolotely never get any pedal fade, and this is on the highway. Bottom line is that less you plan to bracket race, or get up to 120 on the highway and slam them on, slotted rotors and upgraded brake lines are just overkill and a waste of $$$ for the rear. Most of the braking is done in the front, so slotted up from with good aftermarket pads in the front, and cast steel rotors (that wont rust like cast iron) and a set of good pads in the rear are really all an everyday driver like myself will need. Youd definitely feel the difference with just the rear swap, and OEM rotors and pads

[Wallflower]

Originally posted by Aleromi
Question maybe dumb but Y are some of u guy just buying the whole spindles? .. Y not buy the whole rear suspesion buy removing 4 bolts from the body and just remove the lower struts bolts and then get new brake lines...

Just to me seams simpler....

Why drag home all the extra crap you don't need, not to mention also paying for.

[Erich]

I am new to this board, I thought i had posted here a loong time ago. I may know some of you from other boards....or Chicagoland area.

Here is what brings me here and to this post.

I am selling a set for conversion on ebay now.

I did not pull the ebrake lines. Everything else is included. The drivers side has a cracked wheel sensor plug..but it has its contacts there and should be fine.

The pads and rotors are actually in good shape....there is dirt and dust on the other parts. Once you install them they will clean up...and very well. I did not hose them down because i did not want to risk getting water in the open caliper.

This swap should be incredibly easy. My starting price of $50 is peanuts!!!

Also a shameless plug..for those who have 2.4's i sell the secret cam swap cams.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ESSE%3AIT&rd=1


If you live in Chicago...or want to drive to Chicago. We can do installs on the brakes

[Erich]

Originally posted by illsmokeyou
that would require more $$$$ , and if your gonna upgrade, youd better make it KYB, or something aftermarket, and NOT stock struts, and all 4 are gonna run you about another $250. Besides the brake lines on the SE and GT are the same, so if your gonna want to upgrade again to SS lines, your looking at another $100

Remember I spent $350 on everything, so add on another $350 and you can see this is starting to get very pricey .... my stock struts are still good, ill keep 'em

Wallflower is right, there is actually 5 bolts, just that the picture doesnt really show the exact location of the 5th, and eblend is correct as well, the SE and GT bolts are the same, I just wanted to makle sure I had ALL the parts off the Alero in case I ran into any issues.

true rear drums suck hardcore, but when I drive my GT, I absolotely never get any pedal fade, and this is on the highway. Bottom line is that less you plan to bracket race, or get up to 120 on the highway and slam them on, slotted rotors and upgraded brake lines are just overkill and a waste of $$$ for the rear. Most of the braking is done in the front, so slotted up from with good aftermarket pads in the front, and cast steel rotors (that wont rust like cast iron) and a set of good pads in the rear are really all an everyday driver like myself will need. Youd definitely feel the difference with just the rear swap, and OEM rotors and pads

Almost all rotors are cast iron. Steel rotors are used in extreme exceptions and are probably not available for stock brakes(front or rear). Front is obvious, since they are vented. Vented brakes are wehen they are hollow between the area that is clamped. I was actually suprised on the rears when i pulled them. I thought N bodies got vented rear brakes. My 1990 Pontiac 6000 SE AWD has vented rears

There are things you can do to OEM/Stock rotors to make them perform. First off always torque those wheels correctly, this may affect warpage. Unbelievable or not, its best not to machine your rotors when doing pad swaps....unless you have some serious rotor issues like heavy scoring or you ran th metal to metal..or slight warpage. If any of those problems are present consider changing your rotors. When first putting new pads on new rotors....give the car a break in...DO NOT SLAM your brakes "testing". Another thing you can do is to have the rotors Kryo-treated. Places that do industrial hardening....or engine/tranny rebuilders should have a place that will do this.

My L body has $16 a piece rotors...so i just toss them every year.

[Aleromi]

Originally posted by Wallflower
Why drag home all the extra crap you don't need, not to mention also paying for.

Well realy ur not draging extra parts per say but IMO why take apart hubs & spindles Ect.. Then taking the whole rear removing
4 sub bolts and install it..

I price the whole rear suspension at 2 different junk yards and they were like 50 bucks different..

Whole 375.00 ( u remove it)
or all ready pulled 475.00

and just the whole hubs each side about 300 (u pull) 350 they pulled..

So why tear down each side and put back, (IE few hour's) when remove the whole thing and slide in the new-used suspension with a jack... I guess it me it just seem's easyer to me do it that way.

[illsmokeyou]

swap was a sucess.... took me 4 hours though becuase my lack of air tools, and only having a simple 3/8 ratchet, and 1/2 150ft/lb torque wrench

the how to with pics will be coming up later today. Ive got errands to run, and pictures to resize

[Erich]

The rear suspension peices that trail back tend to get dammaged. The car i got the set from on ebay had slight bends. I am not sure why, perhaps a jack, or perhaps from moving with a fork lift.

It took me 20 minutes with battery impact. But then again i am no novice. We do 4T60E swaps in less than 4 hours.

[Aleromi]

^^^ that sux donky butt.... well in that case u get what u can..

The link i posted they tear down everything so u can buy part by part as needed.....

[illsmokeyou]

yeah well, had I had ANY kind of impact.... and any kind of mechanical experience with the rear suspension, im sure I could have done maybe an hour

[Erich]

You really don't need much more than this.

[illsmokeyou]

your forgetting the Ebrake cables as well

they ARE different, and also they plug into the knuckles at different points

ALL THE PICS ARE AVAILABLE NOW IN THE *HOW TO SECTION*

[Erich]

ebrake cables... i know this. I believe the ebrake cables are cheaper than the rotors.

[ImpetuousRacer]

I ordered the brakes from junkyard, and had it shipped. All for $235. However, Im missing a couple pieces. Was wondering if anyone can tell me if I need these pieces, and if I do, what the name of it is and/or the part number. See attached picture to see what Im tlaking about. I just want to have everything together before I start tearing it down. Thanks in advanced.

[snwman]

Originally Posted by ImpetuousRacer

I ordered the brakes from junkyard, and had it shipped. All for $235. However, Im missing a couple pieces. Was wondering if anyone can tell me if I need these pieces, and if I do, what the name of it is and/or the part number. See attached picture to see what Im tlaking about. I just want to have everything together before I start tearing it down. Thanks in advanced.

those are the same on the GT and SE model, I opted to leave them at the junkyard because well the garage is already full of tons of old parts.

[ImpetuousRacer]

Thanks snowman! Also, on the rear disc brakes, there is like a drum and shoe for the ebrake. When do you have to replace shoe for that? Can you replace it? IT looks thin, but I imagine it comes that way. It appears to be bonded.

[snwman]

Originally Posted by ImpetuousRacer

Thanks snowman! Also, on the rear disc brakes, there is like a drum and shoe for the ebrake. When do you have to replace shoe for that? Can you replace it? IT looks thin, but I imagine it comes that way. It appears to be bonded.

now that I have no IDEA , . mine seemed to be ok 1-2mm thick and the ebrake works great. so if it works dont fix it.