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Old 02-03-2003, 10:22 AM   #21
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Ok just found this topic and maybe you guys could help me out. Now under my hood i have a yellow top w/ 0 awg wire going straight to my amp..the amp is a 1500w digital beast (mtx 81000D). Anyways, I was considering getting a cap, but not sure if it would even hold up to the amount of power I need. Im powering 2 audiobahn 1000w subs, and even on the eway doin 80mph, my lights still find there way to dim. And honestly Im not even using half the the amp's tru power. I do have a 2nd yellow top, and I am considering putting it in with an isolator, but I would rather not if its not necessary. For the mostpart my lights dim about a good 50%-60% when the bass hits. and help is appreciated
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Old 02-03-2003, 04:18 PM   #22
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The 81000D is one f the hungriest amplifiers on the market, with current consumption well in excesss of 150 amperes at peak output. With anything else on, or heaven forbid another amp, your system will be unhappy with or without the second battery, depending on your listening habits.

That said, adding the second battery with a good dual battery relay (I recomend the Stinger SR-200, $69.95 retail, under $50 if you look) will drasticly reduce the dimming if you don't jam on it ALL the time - the additional battery will drain "first", providing a buffer for the rest of the system. If you jam on it all the time, the charging system will never "catch up", and the seconf battery will eventualy drain, making it an oversized cap at best (and no, a cap ain't gonna do much for you here).

Your best option will be to upgrade the alternator. Adding the second battry will help, and doing both (especially if you already have the extra Yellowtop....) would be best. Failing that, the second batt will help, but a bigger alt reallyt ought to be part of the picture. I like Mr. Alternator myself, and I'm sure their are places local to you that could help. Expect to part with around $300 with shipping and whatnot.
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Old 02-03-2003, 04:21 PM   #23
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what about reaplacing the wire coming from the alt to 0 awg to the batt? I heard that helps some
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Old 02-03-2003, 04:27 PM   #24
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It will help a little, yes, and I would definately recomend doing it either way - although 4 awg might be easier. But it won't be nearly enough to fix the problem with that beast in the trunk!
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Old 02-03-2003, 04:48 PM   #25
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and just to think i was considering adding another one of these amp and 2 more subs,


the thing i like abou thte 0 awg i use is its extrememly flexible, and its threaded alot thicker than normal 0 awg power wire, because i get it from a welding shop. Since welding wire is used to have more current, it actually pulls alot more current than standard wire.

cant complain when i only pay $4 a ft for it to
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Old 02-03-2003, 04:52 PM   #26
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We did a system in a Camaro with 6 of them, one each to 6 12W7's in a wall. Add three PPI amps for the highs.... 2 alternators and 7 batteries, and it still wasn't REALLY enough.

Upgrade your alternator. Add the second batt as well if you like - can't hurt!
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Old 02-03-2003, 05:30 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by AmIGrand
We did a system in a Camaro with 6 of them, one each to 6 12W7's in a wall. Add three PPI amps for the highs.... 2 alternators and 7 batteries, and it still wasn't REALLY enough.

good god
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Old 02-04-2003, 08:29 AM   #28
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omg


what was the spl on that system???
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Old 02-04-2003, 01:34 PM   #29
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I don't recall exactly. It didn't meter out all that well, really, phase problems when the car was closed. The guy didn't want certain things done that needed to be done, so it wasn't really up to our standards if you ask me. Still, te first time we fired it up in the insall bay with the doors open, it was loud enough to knock the rearview mirror off the windshield - of another car parked 20 feet away getting a deck installed. You've heard the story before, grass, before the crash.... The owner has had to replace his windshield several times - it's OK until he gets even one litle rock chip, than it's connect-the-dots across the glass if he turns it up.

It actually wasn't quite as badass as the 9 12's in the Grand AM SE I've mentioned, not to mention the 12 15's in a chevy full size truck. Any UT members may have seen one of those two on State in SLC - or at least heard them....
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Old 02-08-2003, 10:07 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by silentalero
Ok just found this topic and maybe you guys could help me out. Now under my hood i have a yellow top w/ 0 awg wire going straight to my amp..the amp is a 1500w digital beast (mtx 81000D). Anyways, I was considering getting a cap, but not sure if it would even hold up to the amount of power I need. Im powering 2 audiobahn 1000w subs, and even on the eway doin 80mph, my lights still find there way to dim. And honestly Im not even using half the the amp's tru power. I do have a 2nd yellow top, and I am considering putting it in with an isolator, but I would rather not if its not necessary. For the mostpart my lights dim about a good 50%-60% when the bass hits. and help is appreciated
thats exactly my problem......my lights dim no matter what..... i have upgraded alternator, to a yellow top, 4 ga. wire, 1 farad cap (piece of crap just adding weight to the car )......btw......my system consinst of 1800w Autotek Mean Machine amp, 2x12" Fosgate Punch subs, Panasonic 48x4 deck....i have heard from a nice, reputable stereo shop ( not where i installed my stereo) that a 15 Farad cap should fix the problem.....since i upgrade just about anything else that needs to be upgraded....heres a pic of a 15 farad cap......the brand i will be getting it is Aluma Pro tho........ www.AlumaPro.com
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Old 02-08-2003, 10:14 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally posted by GTluver
thats exactly my problem......my lights dim no matter what..... i have upgraded alternator, to a yellow top, 4 ga. wire, 1 farad cap (piece of crap just adding weight to the car )......btw......my system consinst of 1800w Autotek Mean Machine amp, 2x12" Fosgate Punch subs, Panasonic 48x4 deck....i have heard from a nice, reputable stereo shop ( not where i installed my stereo) that a 15 Farad cap should fix the problem.....since i upgrade just about anything else that needs to be upgraded....heres a pic of a 15 farad cap......the brand i will be getting it is Aluma Pro tho........ www.AlumaPro.com
by the way......the subs are 1k watts each, the components are stock......for now.... and yea.....my amp is not using half its full power
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Old 02-09-2003, 01:54 PM   #32
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Well, first of all - what is that amp fused at? If it's over 100 amps (which it better be to make 1800 watts) you need more than 4 ga wire. Secondly - who upgraded your alternator, and to what output level? It may not be up to snuff, have a shop other than the one that sold it/installed it test the thing. Lastly - That 15 farad cap is a neat piece, but what's it cost these days? Last I checked they we're over $300, and for that money, a Batcap or a second drycell battery would be both cheaper and more effective.
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Old 02-11-2003, 03:30 PM   #33
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Well, I have never seen anything from Mr Alternator do anything other than exactly what it was supposed to, so you should be fine there.

For $530 you could add TWO more batteries, and upgrade all your wiring, and do a LOT of stuff. No way in hell you should spend that much on a cap, 15 farads or not!

First - get some 4 ga or 0 ga from the alt to the main battery. A few bucks and a few minutes, done.

Next - upgrade the wire from the front battery to the back of the car to 0 ga. You could leave it at 4 with what I'm recomending, but 0 is better with that alternator.

Keep the Yellowtop up front for now, it ain't hurtin' anything. Get a Stinger SP-200 dual battery relay, about $60 retail, eeeeaasy to install. Make sure their is a fuse (recomend 200 amps) within 18 inches of the + terminal, blah blah....

In the trunk, add a Stinger SP-1700, retail is $379, but they can be had for around $300. It's a big, badass, drycell battry designed for SPL systems, it'll take the abuse without a doubt. You'll need another fuse back here, again within 18 inches of the + terminal. Yes, two fuses on the same length of wire from front to back - you have to protect against shorts from BOTH batteries!

A short run of 0 ga from the battery to the amp, fused for whatever the amplifier(s) need.

This will do better than the 15 farad cap. No more dimming lights, the ability to jam on the system with the car turned off without draining the starter battery, and for less than $500.
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Old 03-30-2003, 08:16 PM   #34
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ok where exactly do i connect the upgraded wire to on the alternator?
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Old 06-12-2003, 07:06 AM   #35
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ok my lights dim quite a bit even with the cap but no dimming while actually moving, I expect the dimmage since my amp is 3000 watts. It doesn't really bother me antmore
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Old 07-05-2003, 11:16 PM   #36
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my lights dim also..........its not so bad but its noticable. i got the kicker 1200.1 pushin 2 10"L7s..... i upgraded the battery to the rockford fosgate batt... i was wonderin wut esle i should do that would help and not be all the much money.......funds are tight after buying that.
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Old 07-08-2003, 05:26 PM   #37
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You guys need a high output alternator. gagt13 - that battery is a waste of money without an upgraded alternator with an amp that big. It'll help for the short term, but in a few weeks/months, you'll be right back where you started....
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Old 07-08-2003, 09:02 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally posted by AmIGrand
You guys need a high output alternator. gagt13 - that battery is a waste of money without an upgraded alternator with an amp that big. It'll help for the short term, but in a few weeks/months, you'll be right back where you started....
if you have a lot of bass, you will still dimm like a mofo after half past volume if u want the music that loud....i have an Optima yellow battery, 160 amp alternator, 4 gauge electrical wiring, 1 farad cap......u need a capacitor more then one farad....those one-farad caps are crap and a waste of money.....at least get an cap of 5-farad and u should be fine.....im getting a 15-farad one just 2 be sure .....

btw, if u want the most bang for your buck, get ALUMAPRO caps....the best, reliable caps out there......hopes this helps a bit...
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Old 07-08-2003, 10:01 PM   #39
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i planed on gettin a high out put alt. jus that thers so much to do w/ so little money
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Old 07-26-2003, 02:22 AM   #40
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I want to add a yellow top in my trunk... I have a conventional battery upfront, a 160amp alt, and 2 amps (one PPI 480watt & 1 AudioBahn 580watt). Will my current 4 guage wiring running from my battery to my trunk do the job connecting the batteries? It feels somewhat insufficient.

Also, what size fuses should I put on both batteries? I was thinking 120 amps.
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