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Old 08-01-2005, 07:19 PM   #61
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Not really up to date but here are some old pics.
http://www.rankmyride.com/?page=cars/view&CID=7642
I am going with a fiberglass setup next and the speaker pods are now vinyled on the doors.
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Old 08-01-2005, 07:59 PM   #62
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I still got some more room on the amp considering it's barely 1/4 of the way up
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Old 08-02-2005, 06:16 AM   #63
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Not finished yet, but its in and works well:

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Old 08-02-2005, 10:25 AM   #64
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just found out yesterday i get 70% off through a connection at circuitcity, so im gonna upgrade my speakers and possibly subs in the next couple weeks.
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Old 08-02-2005, 02:46 PM   #65
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dont mind the vinyl on the box it ripped squeezin the box in the trunk i gotta redo it,or the spongebob coach


wiring is messy for now also



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Old 08-02-2005, 03:15 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99GApunk
mine sound best to me when i drop the seats down, but keep them firing towards the trunk lid, its kind of a comprimise
THats what i do an it sounds great, wen i fac them towards me the bass dies because it has more room to travel, the soundwaves are bouncin off the trunk and back into the car giving it more boom. As for as clarity like Rosado wants. If you want something to hit thats the easy part, clarity is what people dont realize is actually important. You can have something hit so hard it lifts skirts but wat song is on is the question? you dont know. For instance, i have 2 10'' kicker comp vr's kicker 350.2amp but the key to my whole system is my HU. Kenwood Excellon 579. your headunit is where you get all your clarity from, with a sh!t HU u got a sh!t system. My vocals in my songs are louder than the bang of my subs WHILE at the same time my subs have set off 4 car alarms so far. Ill likn my cardomain here so u can see wat it looks like, its nothing really. Ill prolly eventually get a enclosure or a set up going after i fix my bumper(500ish), 2 new back tires(500ish), and some other nessecities.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/690319
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Old 08-02-2005, 03:20 PM   #67
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the speakers firing towards the trunk with the back seats down is the way to go .gets nice and loud that way
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Old 08-02-2005, 03:33 PM   #68
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wow, an old thread brought back to life.... This thread is over a year old
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Old 08-02-2005, 03:34 PM   #69
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maybe if we get enough trunk pics, it might get stickied
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Red painted brake calipers
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Sound System:
Pioneer Premier DEH-P960MP
Type R Comps with Aura Tweets
Clarion 4 channel amp
Infinity Kappa 4x6 plates
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3.2 cubie box @ 32hrtz
JBL 1200.1 @ 2 ohm @ 1350 rms
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Old 08-02-2005, 07:16 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ancona46
the speakers firing towards the trunk with the back seats down is the way to go .gets nice and loud that way
when i do that the rearview mirror becomes unusable. it doesnt stay up, its frickin hilarious.

btw, i gotta get somethin to measure the decibals, cause i have some settings where it becomes almost impossible to breathe cause the sound waves hit you SO hard.
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Old 08-02-2005, 08:50 PM   #71
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^^what can you use to measure it?
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Old 08-02-2005, 08:51 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ancona46
dont mind the vinyl on the box it ripped squeezin the box in the trunk i gotta redo it,or the spongebob coach


wiring is messy for now also

hehe the stroller is a nice touch!
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Old 08-03-2005, 05:33 PM   #73
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This is my current set up.

I plan on changing it soon with custom sub boxes and a clear amp enclosure like they do on 'Pimp my Ride' to show the amp inards. I'll post again when thats done with.
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Old 08-03-2005, 08:16 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by Hodge




I still got some more room on the amp considering it's barely 1/4 of the way up
Remeber the gain is not a volume knob, it is meant to match the volts your h.u. puts out. Quick tip, take how many volts your head unit is, throw a one over it, and thats how far you turn your amp up. For example: Head unit has 4 volt output, by putting a one over that, you get 1/4. So, turn your gains up 1/4 of the way. Same way with 2 volt, you'd turn your gain 1/2 way up to match up. Long story short, having your gains way to high than what they're suppossed to be set at, will send out clipped signals, thus f'ing your system up over a period of time.
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Old 08-06-2005, 01:56 PM   #75
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[click thumbnails for larger pictures]


I just whipped that up in a couple days. I needed some bass so I did what I could. I'm running 8 Elemental Design 9Kv.2's in an infinite baffle setup with a Brax SPL Competition amplifier powering it. At the moment, everything else is still stock (just bought the car).

And of course, it'll either get a layer of carpet or vinyl on both sides eventually.

Last edited by Shane N; 08-06-2005 at 02:26 PM.
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Old 08-06-2005, 02:05 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane N


I just whipped that up in a couple days. I needed some bass so I did what I could. I'm running 8 Elemental Design 9Kv.2's in an infinite baffle setup with a Brax SPL Competition amplifier powering it. At the moment, everything else is still stock (just bought the car).

And of course, it'll either get a layer of carpet or vinyl on both sides eventually.
do they sound alright cuz i thought u need to have subs in a box of some sort or they cant produce bass as good
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Old 08-06-2005, 02:25 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boost21
do they sound alright cuz i thought u need to have subs in a box of some sort or they cant produce bass as good
Essentially yes. If you think about it, the trunk is acting as an enclosure. As long as the waves on the front of the subwoofer are separated from the back of the subwoofer, you are set. It isn't going to get as loud, but it will still get very low (if not lower than sealed/ported).

One of the downsides of infinite baffle is that you have much less control over the motor extension. If have a driver that is very easy to bottom out, this type of setup would not be a very good idea. With the ED subs I have, they are extremely hard to bottom out, so they fit the application perfectly. However, my amplifier (Brax SPL Competition) doesn't have a variable LPF. Instead, it uses the PCB cards, and I only have the 80hz one. With an IB setup, usually 60hz is a better place to crossover and let your front stage handle the rest.
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Old 08-06-2005, 05:26 PM   #78
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In order to pull off something like that with the subs firing forward like a wall you have to seal the trunk off completely from the rest of the car. You'll also have to put them in a box then, but I think the whole concept of open air subs is bad anyways. Ill also not agree with the statement that said open air subs get as low as sealed/ported - especially the ported part.

Also, I like what you did with the 8 subs it give the wow effect, but sometimes the wow effect is bluffing. Out of curiousty have you metered the setup yet? Ill have to prove my point when you put up some numbers.
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Old 08-06-2005, 05:52 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by SC/TGrandAm
In order to pull off something like that with the subs firing forward like a wall you have to seal the trunk off completely from the rest of the car. You'll also have to put them in a box then, but I think the whole concept of open air subs is bad anyways. Ill also not agree with the statement that said open air subs get as low as sealed/ported - especially the ported part.

Also, I like what you did with the 8 subs it give the wow effect, but sometimes the wow effect is bluffing. Out of curiousty have you metered the setup yet? Ill have to prove my point when you put up some numbers.
It isn't meant to get loud with the numbers. I'm probably not hitting even 135db. I don't need to prove a point at all when it comes to loudness. Car stereos aren't about getting loud IMO, it is about accurately reproducing the music the way it was while getting recorded. I could probably toss one eight inch subwoofer in a small sealed box and have all the bass I need for 99% of real (if the bass isn't from a bass guitar or a drum, it isn't real to me) music. And measuring a substage by how loud it gets is definitely not a way to judge it for me. I judge it by frequency response, peaks, and if it can keep up with double kicks. I don't need my neighbors feeling 33hz as they sleep.

I don't need to put the subwoofers in a box though. Do a search on google for infinite baffle. They are used in tons of different scenarios. From studios, to movie theaters, and even in line arrays.

Trust me when I say they get as low as sealed and ported. The only way a ported box will really beat it by a large margin would be by tuning it below 25hz. And in a car, personally, I'd never tune below 28hz.

Here is a brief intro on infinite baffles from a google search. This one relates to in home subwoofer use, but it can be applied to car audio as well:
Quote:
To eliminate dipolar cancellation we can enclose the driver so that the rear wave is isolated from the front wave. The Infinite Baffle is the simplest means of doing this. A true infinite baffle is large enough so that there is no compression of the air mass behind the driver. Every woofer has a VAS figure, which is the Equivalent closed air volume of the driver compliance. For the system to operate as an infinite baffle, a woofer with a VAS of 300 liters would require a 300 liter or larger enclosure, (approx. 28 liters per cu.ft.). In this example, you’d need a box about 11 cu.ft. or the size of a small refrigerator! When operated in an infinite baffle, the woofer parameters don’t change. For example, a woofer that has a Qts of .5 with an Fs of 30Hz will have those same numbers if used in an infinite baffle design. You can see that true infinite baffles are usually not very practical. However, infinite baffle systems can be built into attics, basements, closets, etc. In this manner it is possible to create infinite baffle systems with extremely high-output capabilities that take up virtually no living space. (See Builder’s FAQs for tips on building Infinite Baffles).

Advantages:

# Can produce very accurate low-bass
# Simple design
# Can use "waste space" such as attic or closet

Disadvantages:

# Must be very solid
# Can "leak" too much bass to other areas of the house or outside
# Can’t be moved
# Requires a lot of driver cone area and or very long-Xmax drivers for high output

Read up on infinite baffles, they really are neat.

Last edited by Shane N; 08-06-2005 at 05:54 PM.
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Old 08-06-2005, 06:40 PM   #80
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this is in my 97 but i'm selling this if someone wants to come pick it up. i'm making a differant fiberglass setup. this fits a 96-98 if anyone is intrested
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