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Old 01-15-2005, 04:30 PM   #1
MegaHyp
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Brakes creaking when pressed.

Hey guys, whenever i fully press my brake pedal they make a creaking noise. when i have my radio turned down, it is very noticable and can be heared inside and outside the car. does anyone know what it could be? something wrong with the caliper and is there an area where i can lube them up at all?? thanks.
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Old 01-15-2005, 04:54 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MegaHyp
Hey guys, whenever i fully press my brake pedal they make a creaking noise. when i have my radio turned down, it is very noticable and can be heared inside and outside the car. does anyone know what it could be? something wrong with the caliper and is there an area where i can lube them up at all?? thanks.
This usualy has to do with the caliper piston being warped, You will need to replace the caliper. Or rebuild it. I got rebuilt ones for 69 dollars a side with a 40 dollar core charge, i have had them for 8 months no issue.
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Old 01-15-2005, 05:16 PM   #3
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thanks becouse mine are doing the same thing and i had no idea what it was im shure thats it.
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Old 01-15-2005, 05:17 PM   #4
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NO, your calipers DON'T need replacing. This is a TSB for the noise...Its very simple

Brake Noise/Creak During Slow Speed Braking (Lubricate Brake Caliper)
1999-2003 Chevrolet Malibu

2004 Chevrolet Malibu Classic

1999-2004 Oldsmobile Alero

1999-2004 Pontiac Grand Am

Condition
Some customers may comment on a creak type noise occurring when applying the brakes. It is usually heard only during slow speed brake maneuvers. If this condition exists, it should be able to be duplicated when the vehicle is not moving by depressing the brake and listening for the noise from the wheel-well/caliper area.

Cause
This condition may be caused by a caliper piston to seal interface issue during brake apply. If the caliper is removed and the piston is pushed back, the noise may be eliminated. This is usually only a temporary fix.

Correction
DO NOT REPLACE CALIPER.

To repair this condition, lubricate the entire circumference of the seal at the caliper piston interface using Kluber Fluid and the following procedure:

Remove the wheel and reinstall two lug nuts. This will hold the rotor to the bearing surface so debris does not fall between the surfaces and cause lateral runout (LRO).
Remove the bottom bolt from the caliper assembly without disturbing the hydraulic system.



Swing the caliper assembly up so the caliper assembly is facing upward.
Thoroughly clean the piston boot with GM approved Brake Clean. Pay particular attention to the area where the boot interfaces with the piston.
Using compressed air, dry the piston/boot area.



Remove the cap from the tip of the bottle and carefully insert the tip, P/N 89022161, between the boot and piston, inward of the piston boot groove.
From the top side of the piston (reference diagram), inject the lubricant. With the caliper in the tilted position, the lubricant will flow down and work its way around the entire circumference of the seal. Let the caliper body assembly remain in this position for a minimum of 2 minutes to allow for the fluid to completely work its way around the seal.
Push the piston into the seal to ensure the lubricant is on both the piston and seal surface.

Important
Excessive fluid could appear as a failure and lead to a comeback. To prevent unnecessary future repairs, it is important to only use one bottle per side and make sure excess fluid is wiped away.


Wipe away any excessive fluid.
Reassemble the caliper to the vehicle. Tighten
Tighten the caliper bolts to 31N·m(23 lb ft).

Repeat steps 1- 9 on the opposite side of the vehicle, if necessary.
Pump the brake pedal to push the caliper piston back into place.
Reinstall the wheel and test drive the vehicle to verify repair.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description

89022161
Service Kit -- Kluber Fluid



Important
The service kit will consist of a "one--time use only" bottle which will service one caliper.


Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

H9702
Brake Caliper -- Lubricate (One Side)
0.3 hr

H9703
Brake Caliper -- Lubricate (Both Sides)
0.6 hr




GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
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Old 01-15-2005, 05:19 PM   #5
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Go ahead lub your caliper slide pins that could be the problem to, But i'm pretty much going to garantee your going to be replacing that caliper
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Old 01-15-2005, 06:06 PM   #6
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Thank you for the TSB!
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Old 01-15-2005, 06:57 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackrider
Go ahead lub your caliper slide pins that could be the problem to, But i'm pretty much going to garantee your going to be replacing that caliper


Its not the slide pins that need the lube. Its the piston itself that becomes dry and rubs the rubber seal. This new lube that GM choice to use, should correct the problem. Many people have had this done now and have had no noise since. Many people have replaced their calipers only to have the same noise come back within a few months with the new ones. So before you spend any money on calipers, I would try this TSB.
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Old 01-15-2005, 07:13 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brsexton
Its not the slide pins that need the lube. Its the piston itself that becomes dry and rubs the rubber seal. This new lube that GM choice to use, should correct the problem. Many people have had this done now and have had no noise since. Many people have replaced their calipers only to have the same noise come back within a few months with the new ones. So before you spend any money on calipers, I would try this TSB.
I replaced my Calipers with aftermarket rebuilt ones witch correct this problem. I dont know about anyone elce but i dont like ripping my caliper apart. in the end its going to be about the same price for a rebuilt kit and less hassle to replace the caliper.
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Old 01-15-2005, 07:32 PM   #9
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I am glad brsexton brought reason to this discussion. You should NOT have to replace your caliper for this issue.
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Old 01-15-2005, 07:35 PM   #10
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What ever, I did it cost me very little i'm confident in my repair, and i didnt have to rip apart your caliper do what you want
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Old 01-16-2005, 01:54 AM   #11
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Mine started doing the same thing right after i got new rotors. From any slow speed, pumping the brake sounds like a couple going at it on a sqeaky bed
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Old 01-16-2005, 05:50 AM   #12
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You don't have to rip apart the caliper. You just swing the caliper up and inject the lub around the pistion seal. You don't have to take the caliper apart. Infact, you don't even have to take the caliper off the car. This repair takes like 5mins. It takes longer to jack the car up and remove the wheel longer then it takes to put the lub in.
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Old 01-16-2005, 12:08 PM   #13
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When I used to have this problem, I had my dealer lube the piston under warranty and the noise came back. For some reason, I don't hear anything now.
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Old 01-16-2005, 12:41 PM   #14
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I did it the TSB way and it fixed the problem... its really easy.
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Old 01-16-2005, 03:38 PM   #15
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I had a very similar issue, and told the dealer about the TSB I read about. They said there are two issues both that have the same circumstances. In my case I had to have the whole caliper replaced. The other has to do with the TSB posted.

They said the other issue is the boot surounding the piston needs lubrication and makes a somewhat similar creeking noise and my issue has to do with the piston itself.
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Old 01-17-2005, 11:53 AM   #16
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I followed that TSB as well when I had that same noise. That was almost a year ago and the sound hasnt come back. Like already stated, its a very easy repair and very cheap. Replacing the calipers for this repair would really be overkill. Kinda like painting the whole car for a door ding!!!
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Old 01-22-2005, 02:26 AM   #17
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Well I tried to lube it with can of silicone spray lubricant. Didn't work worth a damn. It was "Pyroil" brand from Checkers/Schrucks/Kragen. Then I tested the stuff on my finger. Was like water.

So I ordered the actual "Kluber Fluid" from GM. And what do you know, stuff worked like magic. The creaking was loud an obnoxious, I didnt think it would work, but it did. The Kluber Fluid was very slippery, yet viscous. I believe it's a synthetic Gear Oil that can withstand high temps.

"With their excellent spreading capacity, lubricity and heat dissipation properties, lubricating oils are as valuable as gold when it comes to protecting friction points. Lubricating oil is made up of base oil and additives. The success of Klüber's lubricating oil is based on just the right combination of ingredients. Depending on the application, our products protect against friction, wear and corrosion, are neutral towards the materials involved, approved for applications in the food industry, resistant to high temperatures and rapidly biodegradable"

Some real Silicone Lube might work, just dont buy the cheap crap like I did.

Thanks for the help Eren00GT!
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Old 01-22-2005, 08:55 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ImpetuousRacer
Well I tried to lube it with can of silicone spray lubricant. Didn't work worth a damn. It was "Pyroil" brand from Checkers/Schrucks/Kragen. Then I tested the stuff on my finger. Was like water.

So I ordered the actual "Kluber Fluid" from GM. And what do you know, stuff worked like magic. The creaking was loud an obnoxious, I didnt think it would work, but it did. The Kluber Fluid was very slippery, yet viscous. I believe it's a synthetic Gear Oil that can withstand high temps.

"With their excellent spreading capacity, lubricity and heat dissipation properties, lubricating oils are as valuable as gold when it comes to protecting friction points. Lubricating oil is made up of base oil and additives. The success of Klüber's lubricating oil is based on just the right combination of ingredients. Depending on the application, our products protect against friction, wear and corrosion, are neutral towards the materials involved, approved for applications in the food industry, resistant to high temperatures and rapidly biodegradable"

Some real Silicone Lube might work, just dont buy the cheap crap like I did.

Thanks for the help Eren00GT!
No problem. I think I bought a name brand silicone spray from walmart but I can't remember what it is. As long as you found something to use that solves the problem. I think that creaking was going to drive me to complete insanity, so I had to try the silicone spray cause someone else on here had done it and it worked for them.
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Old 01-22-2005, 10:42 AM   #19
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didn't read what most had to say but i read some. I noticed someone said just pushing the piston back in works and I can certainly vouch for that. When I replaced my front brakes...that is when I noticed it stopped...mostly likely due to the fact you have to push the piston back in. I did however forget to lube it up so this will probably come back again..but no big deal
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Old 01-22-2005, 12:25 PM   #20
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Yeah, it sucks when you got your nice clean car sittin on wheels rollin up to a light, and then it makes loud creaking noise, just makes your car look twice as ghetto. The thing is that the brakes are still fully functional, so its not a "necessaity" to fix.

It's a shame that I saw another forum where everyone replaced calipers because noone knew about the TSB. No dealers on my side of town stocked it, and im in Phoenix, AZ huge city. So I know that these guys prob have no idea about the TSB, and the dealerships are just charging people for new calipers.

I've had this problem for about 50k miles. I'm glad I finally found the cure!
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