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Old 07-23-2005, 01:46 PM   #61
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I did them both (top & bottom) just in case... I just did the fronts (since that's where all the damn noise is coming from). But now... nothing, nada, zip.... I used enough to cover the bottom coil... so that it doesn't make contact with the bottom of the strut. And I'll advise to use grease.... it helps it go on smoothly.
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Old 07-23-2005, 02:10 PM   #62
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ok very good i will do that indeed also will the compression of the car weight be enough to hold the hose inplace i could see the spring sliding back and forth through those hoses as u turn the wheel cause they will be greased
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Old 07-24-2005, 09:12 AM   #63
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As far as I know... the bottom will not move and it pretty snug... I think that when you turn the top part is where you need to put some more grease (between the mount and top plate). I've checked the hoses after a days drive and turning .... they seem to still be in place.
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Old 07-24-2005, 09:54 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorKoastal
.. I also cut a bit from the rubber "stop" from the bottom of the mount that hits the spring..
Is that really nessasary? And do u thing this hose thing is possible with just using spring compressors or will i have to take the whole thing apart again. Cause last time it was impossible to get the not off and on the top of the strut cause when u try to turn it the whole strut turns too. Is there an easy way to hold the strut still and keep it from turning? Thanks again this will make me sooo happy if i can fix this.
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Old 07-24-2005, 01:46 PM   #65
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Correct... I just used the spring compressors to get the hose in the coil. If you really want to take it apart, then you can just use a mount vise (vice) to keep the strut from turning.
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Old 07-25-2005, 12:09 PM   #66
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NorKoastal you are my hero and Bgonz22 his sidekick omg this hose thing is like the miracle drug thank you soooo much. I just hope this lasts now but again so far this is 100% succsessful and is a must do for any one with this problem. Thank you
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Old 07-25-2005, 12:57 PM   #67
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Hey Somebody has to be the guinea pig with these things...

The clunk noises were embarrasing to hear all the time... I think the next thing to look for is the strongest hose that can stand up to the abuse..... This will ensure we dont have to mess around every 10K readjusting hoses.... As of now my setup is quiet over the little bumps that caused the "clunking." If I pull the wheel hard left or right there is a noticeable noise that is new, BUT it is not even remotly close to the clunk on the straightaways...

I think the bump stop cutting is optional because the bottom of the KYB doesnt have a notch for the spring to sit in.... I just did it..

I needed another set of muscles to hold the strut together because the unit is taller with the hose installed...

To Everybody who uses this "trick" be forwarned... This is not guaranteed to work for all clunking, nor last forever under all conditions.... If you find a threaded hose/coating that can stand up 50K under loaded driving conditions I would recommend using it over cheaper non threaded rubber hose... All this trick is doing is shielding the strut from the spring.. If it does break down a bit you will probably hear clunking return because the "unit" is now a little looser... Tightening the unit may fix that issue until the hose is replaced.

Being that the strut mount is the "hinge" for our steering I would expect this trick to last a while... The hose/spring is not sliding too much around on turns to chew up the hose (the strut is pretty smooth anyways.

Good Luck and keep us updated....
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Old 07-25-2005, 02:43 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorKoastal
Hey Somebody has to be the guinea pig with these things...

As of now my setup is quiet over the little bumps that caused the "clunking." If I pull the wheel hard left or right there is a noticeable noise that is new, BUT it is not even remotly close to the clunk on the straightaways...
Yes i thought it was perfect the first drive but i just took it out again and it is very nice over bumps with no noise but on hard left turns it does make some noise. I dont know if it is the spring turning in the hose cause of all the grease used to get on the hose but o well it is soo much better than it was and i hope it stays that way for a good 10k like you said
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Old 07-25-2005, 08:32 PM   #69
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Its definatly not silent on the hard turns... But compared to the clunks its no comparison....
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Old 07-26-2005, 08:47 AM   #70
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I agree, but now I hear all the junk I have in the trunk rolling around...
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Old 07-26-2005, 09:51 AM   #71
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i think the hose up top is the one making the noise on the turns, im thinking about trying it with out the top hose.
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Old 08-24-2005, 11:12 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sluggerx5
i think the hose up top is the one making the noise on the turns, im thinking about trying it with out the top hose.
Did you take off the top hose? Did the noise while cornering go away. I installed Eibach/Kyb's two weeks ago and the noise is not good. I am gonna do the bottom for sure and was gonna do the top but if you it's better without the top hose I would leave it off. BTW, after the struts/springs I had to replace the wheel bearings before the alignment and the car is back to tight when cornering. I did not even notice this since it goes slowly over time. The tighter turning is almost as nice as the flat, firm turns.
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Old 08-24-2005, 05:41 PM   #73
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I would try to use only 1-2 inches on the bottom of the coil... The metal to metal contact is the "clunking" If there is a Rubber/silicone spray that we could find to "coat" the top of the strut that might work to.. Something that can take a good beating.. The top rubber piece has been ruled worthless.. Rubber to Rubber
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Old 08-24-2005, 06:32 PM   #74
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i own a set of ebachs but i have been hesitant to install them because i hear of this problem. has anyone not expierenced this problem after instalation of lowering springs
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Old 08-24-2005, 07:52 PM   #75
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dude i would consider not installing those if i were you. My car looks amazing (i think) as far as the lowering goes but it is not worth the noise i get. You cant hear the noise when the radio is on but when you have a quit caben it sucks! Or you can wait for the kyb agx's to come out because those might be helpful but i really just dont know. Then noise only comes from the top part of the spring. I have the rubber hose on the botton and it is fine. As soon as i removed the top hose the same noise came back but no more screeching while turning caused by adding the hose.
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Old 08-24-2005, 10:08 PM   #76
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Your confusing me.. What did you leave on the top or bottom?? The top shouldnt be making any noise if everything is tight... There is no metal to metal.. The bottom is metal to metal 100% positive..
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Old 08-26-2005, 09:54 PM   #77
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on my 2000 i notice the clunking mostly on the passenger / right front. and only for a few klms or miles of driving while the car is still cool or been sitting awhile . seems to go away after car has been driven a bit. it's like as if there is a fluid that needs to get warm and build up pressure before the sound goes away. i did alot of test driving to pay attention to the noise.
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Old 09-25-2005, 08:36 PM   #78
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repaired my clunking with some silicone spray under hood in holes on upper strut mount.
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Old 02-28-2006, 04:35 PM   #79
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So people with the hoses......how is it holding up?
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Old 05-31-2006, 02:37 PM   #80
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yea i dont mean to bring up a old thread but how are the hoses holding i just dropped my car 1.7 with intraxx and im getting clunking
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