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Old 04-24-2007, 02:32 PM   #1
angrysk8r
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AKA: Luke
Join Date: Sep 2005
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Posts: 331
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LIM and Head Gasket Change Walkthrough/FAQ

I've compiled this LIM and head gasket change walkthrough for the 3400 and took some pictures that hopefully will help anyone else who will be doing this. Iíve also edited much of the original thread in an attempt to make it more user-friendly while still keeping it as simple as possible. Note that at the end of the walkthrough I have added a common problems/faq and a url compilation of all of the pictures (and some others I didnít use) from the walkthrough. If youíre from another site feel free to link to the walkthrough or PM/email me (lukedoane@hotmail.com) for the original code so you can post it elsewhere (just donít be taking credit for it :-p ).

First off before you can start your LIM/head gasket change, you need a complete list of parts/tools that you're going to have to pick up. All together, since I didnít have some of the required tools (such as the proper torque wrench), it cost me ~$300 (still MUCH better than paying upwards of $800-1000 to have it done at a shop). Hereís what you should need:

Whatís Necessary (for LIM gasket change):
-Several buckets to drain radiator coolant/store old fluids
-Oil drain pan
-Acetone/paint thinner (To clean off old gasket material)
-Razor blades (To clean off old gasket material)
-About 6 liters of Dexcool antifreeze (Premixed) or ~3 liters unmixed (Assuming 50-50 mix of water to antifreeze)
-5 liters oil (4.5 needed for a refill but have some extra to pre-lubricate the pushrods/rockers)
-New thermostat w/ new thermostat o-ring
-12 fuel injector o-rings (Only if you plan to remove/clean the injectors and fuel rail)
-Thread Sealant
-RTV sealant
-LIM gasket kit (Contains both upper and lower intake gaskets)
-Throttle body gasket
-EGR gaskets
-Valve cover gaskets
-A torque wrench reading inch pounds (not foot pounds)
-A good set of wrenches, ratchets, sockets, screwdrivers, and pliers
-Ratchet extensions
-U-joint for a ratchet
-New hose clamps to replace the old ones
-Oil filter wrench
-A special bar with a square end (used for rotating the tensioned pulley so you can remove the serpentine belt)

For Head Gasket Change:
-Everything listed above
-Head Gaskets
-Exhaust Manifold Gaskets
-Head Bolts
-Torque Wrench that reads ft/lbs


Whatís not necessary but should be considered:
-Jack
-Jack stands
-Mechanics gloves
-Magnetic tray to store bolts
-Sharpie and labels/tape to label hoses/electrical connections
-Magnetic bolt retriever (Incase you drop a couple bolts/tools)
-A Haynes or Chiltons manual (Just incase you are confused about something and need more clarification)

*Overall notes*:
-To remove coolant hoses, you must first remove the old hose clamp with a pair of pliers. It may take some force to remove the old coolant hoses for some parts of the LIM gasket change, so you may need to insert a small screwdriver in between the coolant hose and the metal pipe that is holding on to the hose to free it. If any of the coolant hoses are cracked or otherwise worn out you should replace them. Itís better to do it when youíre doing this then having to change them later and having to remove the stuff you just installed.
-For stuck or very hard to loosen bolts you may need some special penetrating oil that will help loosen stuck bolts. If that doesnít work, you may need to invest in a propane or oxy-fuel torch. Heat the stuck bolt until it starts to glow, while itís glowing tap it somewhat hard with a hammer, by heating it and tapping it, it should help loosen the bonds that hold the bolt in place. After the bolt cools try removing it. If for whatever reason it still wonít come out, try more penetrating oil.
-If you happen to break a bolt head off and the rest of the bolt is still in the block or whatever, there is a way to get it out without having to drill and re-tap. If you go to your local hardware store there are some special spiral bits (called easy outs) that look like drill bits with a reverse threading. All you need to do to get the broken bolt out is first drill down about a 1/4Ē through the broken bolt with a smaller drill bit, insert the correct size easy out into the drilled bolt, hit the top of the easy out lightly with a hammer, then while holding the easy out with a wrench or something similar start loosening the bolt.
-For some o-rings, especially on the injectors and fuel rail, it will make it a lot easier if you first coat them with a light film of fresh engine oil or Vaseline.
-If you have any other questions not listed in the FAQ at the end of the walkthrough, feel free to either PM me or email me at lukedoane@hotmail.com (also my msn messenger name).

Now finally you can get started. Make sure you take your time so you donít accidentally miss something that could end up costing you big $$$ (Such as putting pushrods in the wrong order, or forgetting to put RTV sealant on the ridges between the heads). It took me approx. 8 hours to finish everything (including head gaskets).

Since this is going to be a very long post, Iím going to have to split it up.

Last edited by angrysk8r; 03-30-2008 at 02:18 AM.
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Old 04-24-2007, 02:32 PM   #2
angrysk8r
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1.) Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.
2.) Relieve the Fuel system pressure by removing the cap on the end of the fuel rail (as seen in this picture

)

and then pushing the center pin in with a screwdriver
3.) Drain the oil from the oil pan by unscrewing the bolt near the bottom back of the pan (As seen in this picture



). Make sure you have the oil drain bucket underneath it before you completely unscrew it. This might be a good time to use the jack and jack stands so you can get underneath the car to reach the oil drain bolt. Also make sure you tighten the bolt back on when the oil is done draining so you don’t forget later.
4.) Remove the oil filter using the oil filter wrench you picked up earlier (Oil filter shown from above



and from under the car with the splash guard removed

,

note that the exhaust manifolds are circled in red and the filter is circled in white). It may also make it easier if you first remove the splash guard by removing a couple of wing nuts that hold it in place. Also have the oil bucket ready because there may be some oil spillage when you remove the filter. When you’re done you should put the new oil filter in so you don’t forget to do so later.
5.) Drain the coolant by loosening the green wing nut near the bottom of the radiator (As seen in this picture

.

(If you have trouble turning it, get some pliers and very gently pull out while turning it). Also make sure you have a bucket underneath where the coolant will drain out so you don’t have coolant spilling everywhere. Make sure to squeeze the upper radiator hose so you get all/most of the coolant drained. (NOTE: There are also some engine block coolant plugs that I did not remove to drain all of the coolant, but you can if you feel the need to)
6.) Remove the air intake ducts and electrical connections (making sure to label each electrical connection you remove) into components on the intake duct
7.) Remove the throttle cable and cruise control cable from the throttle body. To do this, remove the outside cable first (it just unclips) and then the one on the inside by rotating the spring back so the TB is at WOT, and then taking the cable and removing it from the groove.
8.) Remove the throttle cable mount by removing the 2 bolts on the top of it and the nut located on the bottom left of the TB.
9.) Remove the bolts that hold the TB (The upper left one is show in this picture

)

in place and then disconnect the coolant lines going into the TB. If the coolant lines are stubborn and won’t come off, you may need to cut them and then replace them later with special 3/8" (Correct me if I’m wrong) rubber hosing (Not just any ordinary hose
, make sure it can withstand the corrosion of the coolant). The TB should come off fairly easily and then just set it and its bolts aside.
10.) Remove and label the electrical connection going into the EGR and remove the 2 bolts that hold it in place (The EGR is shown



and one of its bolts). Then remove it and set it aside.
11.) Remove the spark plug wires from the coil pack, then label and remove the 3 electrical connections going into the coil pack. Now remove the 4 bolts that hold the coil pack in place (Electrical connections and bolt locations shown in this picture

).

Now pull out the coil pack and set it aside.
12.) Remove the MAP by first removing the hose connected to the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Remove the 2 bolts/screws on the back of the MAP using a small socket, and the electrical connection on the bottom of the MAP. Now you should have a straight shot at one of the Upper Intake Manifold bolts that was hidden under it (Shown in this picture

).

13.) Unclamp and remove the hose going into the top of the UIM and then remove the remaining hose near the front TB end of the UIM.
14.) Remove the 6 UIM bolts starting from the outside and working your way toward the center. You should be able to now remove the UIM by just lifting straight up.
15.) For this step, make sure you have already relieved the fuel system pressure. To remove the fuel return line, you need a large wrench (A crescent wrench works well here) for the bottom nut on the Fuel Pressure Regulator, and a smaller wrench for the fuel feed line nut (Both nuts are shown in this picture



with the FPR nut circled in red and the fuel feed line nut circled in white, also note this is with the fuel rail removed).
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Old 04-24-2007, 02:34 PM   #3
angrysk8r
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16.) *NOTE*: This step is optional, this is only if you plan to remove the fuel rail and fuel injectors from the LIM and is not necessary in the LIM gasket change. Start off by labeling the electrical connections going to the fuel injectors and the connection going into the T-stat housing (As seen in this picture



note that I labeled the wires with the corresponding number on the intake runners, not to the actual cylinder they were going to, label them whichever way makes more sense to you). Remove the electrical connection going to the T-stat housing and remove the electrical connections going to the injectors (To do this there is a little metal clip on the bottom of the electrical connectors that you first need to push up). You now should be able to lift the fuel rail (with the injectors still attached to the fuel rail) from the LIM (As seen in this picture

.

If it doesn't come off easily, you may need to rock it back and forth first to free it. To remove the injectors from the rail, you need to first need to unclip the small metal clip that holds the injector onto the rail, and then you should be able to pull the injector out.
To install the injectors first inspect the O-rings for wear or corrosion and make sure that nothing is obstructing either end of the injector. Put the metal clip back on to the injector and just push it back onto the fuel rail (If the injector won't go onto the fuel rail easily, it should be ok to use a small amount of clean motor oil on the O-ring to help it slide into the hole). To install the fuel rail, first reconnect the electrical connections going into the injectors, and then position the fuel rail on the LIM making sure the ends of the injectors are lined up to their corresponding holes. Now you should be able to just push the fuel rail and injectors back into position on the LIM (making sure the injectors are seated correctly and firmly). Put the 2 bolts back on the rail and then reconnect the fuel return line and feed lines. Finally put the last electrical connection back on the T-stat housing. Pressurize the fuel system by putting the key in the ON position (Without trying to start the engine) and inspect for fuel leaks. If there are any, replace the O-ring where you think the problem area may be, reinstall the fuel rail, and try again.
17.) Remove the T-stat bypass hose from the metal coolant line that runs across the top of the LIM, and then undo the small bottom bolt that holds the coolant bleeder on (The T-stat bypass hose is highlighted in white and the small bolt is circled in white in this picture

.

Now unclamp and remove other end of the coolant hose that goes past where the TB would be and then set the T-stat bypass aside.
18.) Remove the T-stat housing by first unclamping removing upper radiator hose, and then the end that goes into the coolant reservoir. Then undo the 2 bolts that hold the housing in place (The coolant lines are highlighted in blue in this picture



and where the 2 housing bolts used to be can be seen in this picture



also be prepared for some coolant spillage. Now you can remove the actual T-stat by just pulling it out.
19.) Remove the bolt that's securing the heater pipe bracket in place and remove the heater pipe from the T-stat housing (This can easily be done by using a screwdriver to slide off the pipe as shown in this picture

.

20.) Remove the cruise control actuator (The black box near the coolant reservoir) by removing the 2 bolts that hold it in place and set it aside.
21.) Rotate the tensioner pulley to relieve the tension on the serpentine belt and then slide the belt off of the pulleys.
22.) Remove the alternator by first removing the 2 bolts and then removing the 1 nut that hold it in place. Then remove the nut that holds the large gauge electrical wire to the alternator, remove the remaining electrical connection, and then set the alternator aside.
23.) Remove one of the engine mount bolts (As seen in this picture

)

and then using a U-joint and by rotating the power steering pulley, you should have a clear shot at all 3 of the bolts that hold the power steering assembly to the engine (As seen in this picture

).

Now you should just be able to set the power steering assembly aside without disconnecting it.
24.) Begin removing the accessory bracket by first removing the small pulley bolt and then the tensioner pulley bolt (both are circled in red in this picture

),

and then removing the 2 other bolts to the right of those (circled in red with the tensioner pulley circled in blue in this picture

).

The bracket can now be pulled off along with the black engine hoist point.
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Old 04-24-2007, 02:34 PM   #4
angrysk8r
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Join Date: Sep 2005
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25.) Remove the front valve cover by removing the 4 bolts that hold it on place (Easily seen in this picture

).

Remove any traces of the old valve cover gasket from the cover and the engine. Remove the rear valve cover by also removing the 4 bolts that hold it in place. Note, some of the bolts such as the one near the alternator may be a major PITA to get to. It may be easier to use a small wrench instead of a ratchet.
26.) Loosen and then remove the LIM mounting bolts (8 in all, 4 on the top where the fuel rail would be and 2 on each side).
27.) You should now be able to lift the LIM off of the rest of the engine (As seen in this picture



also note that I had the rocker arms and pushrods already uninstalled when I took the picture) . If it's stuck, it may require some force to lift.
28.) Loosen the 12 rocket arm bolts like I did in this picture



(It's not necessary to remove them completely, even though I did so I could inspect them for wear) and either rotate them out of the way of the pushrods or set them aside (I put the rocker arms in the order they came off, although it shouldn't really matter). Now you should be able to remove the 12 pushrods as I did in this picture



(Note, I actually did this with the LIM still on, it doesn't matter for the removal). NOTE: When you remove the pushrods, MAKE SURE you put them in the correct order they came out (As I did in this picture

,

the order I found easiest to put them in was: The 6 pushrods on the left are from the front of the engine, in order, from the pulley end of the engine to the TB end of the engine, and the same with the right 6 from the back of the engine). If you install the pushrods in the incorrect order you will cause some serious engine damage.
29.) Remove the old LIM gaskets and then using the razor blades you bought earlier, remove as much gasket material and RTV sealant from the bottom of the LIM and the top of the engine (Be careful not to score the metal using the razor blades). Now using the Acetone or paint thinner and a rag, remove what is left of the gasket material and the old RTV sealant until there is virtually no traces left of the old material.


*IMPORTANT NOTE*: If you plan to continue on and change the head gaskets, skip steps 30-60 until completion of steps 30a-37a. If you only plan to do the LIM gasket change and do not plan to replace the head gaskets, continue steps 30-60 and do not go on to steps 30a-37a.


* Reinstallation

30.) Put the new LIM gaskets in place and put a new bead of RTV sealant along the ridge between the heads (The RTV sealant bead should be ~5mm).
31.) Reinstall the pushrods (making sure they are in the correct order) and put the rocker arms and bolts in finger tight (Making sure the small ridge on the bottom of the rocket arm pedestal lines up with the in the heads). Now torque all the rocker arms to 168 in-lbs, then tighten the bolt an additional 30 degrees.
32.) Slowly and Carefully lower the LIM into place on the heads MAKING SURE that it is perfectly lined up (It's easiest to tell by the ridges along where the valve cover gaskets used to be).
33.) Coat the LIM bolts with the pipe thread sealant and then put them in finger tight.
34.) Torque the top 4 LIM bolts to 62 in-lbs in this tightening sequence:
4 - 2
3 - 1
35.) Torque the 4 side LIM bolts to 115 in-lbs in this tightening sequence:
8 - 6
7 - 5
36.) Reinstall the valve covers with new valve cover gaskets.
37.) Reinstall the Power steering assembly.
38.) Reinstall the Engine mount bolt.
39.) Bolt the alternator back on.
40.) Route the serpentine belt back into the correct pulleys (There should be a diagram somewhere near the pulleys), rotate the tensioner pulley counter clockwise, and then reinstall the serpentine belt making sure the grooves are correctly aligned.
41.) Bolt the cruise control actuator back to the engine bay.
42.) Push the heater pipe back onto the T-stat housing the bolt the bracket back on.
43.) Reinstall the thermostat (making sure you put a new O-ring on) and then bolt the thermostat housing back on. Now using new hose clamps, reinstall the line from the T-stat housing back onto the coolant reservoir and reinstall the T-stat bypass hose.
44.) Reinstall the upper radiator hose using a new hose clamp.
45.) Put the fuel feed line and the fuel return line back into the fuel rail and tighten the 2 nuts back on.
46.) Remove and clean any old UIM gasket material off, and then put 2 new UIM gaskets on top of the LIM.
47.) Install the new EGR gaskets, lower the UIM into place and put the 6 bolts in finger tight (Don't forget to put the MAP bracket back on the middle top UIM bolt).
48.) Torque the UIM bolts to 18 ft-lbs working your way from the center bolts out (No specific tightening sequence on the 3400).
49.) Reinstall the EGR and tighten the 2 bolts.
50.) Reinstall the MAP to its bracket and the 2 plugs on the UIM.
51.) Put the 2 PCV lines back into position.
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Old 04-24-2007, 02:35 PM   #5
angrysk8r
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Join Date: Sep 2005
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52.) Put the coil pack assembly back into position, clip the 3 electrical connections back in, and tighten the 2 bolts and 2 nuts that hold it in place.
53.) Reinstall the TB and clamp the 2 coolant hoses back onto the T-stat bypass hose.
54.) Bolt the throttle line assembly back onto the TB and put the 2 throttle lines back onto the TB.
55.) Reinstall the intake tubing and reconnect all of the electrical connections, including the hose that goes to the top of the UIM, and the smaller hose that goes to the bottom front of the UIM.
56.) Put 4.5 liters of oil into the engine.
57.) Fill the coolant reservoir up to the "full cold" mark and then squeeze the upper radiator hose to start getting the air out of the coolant system, then refill up to the cold mark.
58.) Reconnect the battery and then start the car. Look all around the engine and inspect for leaks (Note, there may be some smoke coming from the exhaust manifolds, this is probably just coolant/oil that you spilled on them earlier).
59.) Bleed the coolant system by unscrewing the bleed screw (The screw on top of the T-stat bypass hose "pillar") and then running the engine until a solid stream of coolant flows out.
60.) Recheck for leaks and test drive to make sure car is running normally.


*Head Gasket Change* (Continued from step 29 of the LIM gasket change)
Only do these steps if you plan to change the head gaskets as well, do not go on to these steps if you only needed to complete the LIM gasket change.

30a.) Remove the exhaust manifold heat shields by removing the three 10mm bolts on the front heat shield (easily seen in this picture

),

the 3 on the rear manifold heat shield, and the 4 that hold the crossover pipe heat shield.
31a.) Unbolt the 3 nuts that hold the crossover pipe to the front exhaust manifold (seen in this picture

)

and the 3 nuts that hold the crossover pipe to the rear exhaust manifold (seen in this picture

).

If these do not easily unbolt it may be necessary to use some penetrating oil to help with removal of the nuts.
32a.) Remove the 6 studs that hold the front exhaust manifold in place (the top 3 are easily seen in this picture



and the lower 3 are directly below). Now you should be able to easily remove the crossover pipe. Again, if the studs are not easily unbolted it may be necessary to use some penetrating oil.
33a.) NOTE: If the front end of your car is not on ramps or jack stands you should jack it up now, otherwise these steps will be much more difficult.
If you can, unbolt the 3 bolts that hold the catalytic converter to the down pipe, if even penetrating oil does not work on these bolts it is possible to remove the rear exhaust manifold without doing so (although much more difficult). Now remove the 2 nuts that hold the down pipe to the rear exhaust manifold (circled in blue in this picture

)

and then remove the 6 studs that hold the rear exhaust manifold (circled in red).

NOTE: I found it much easier to access some of these bolts from under the car by using a very long ratchet extension (as seen in these pictures

,

)

34a.) Remove the 8 head bolts on the front head (circled in red in the picture

),

the bolt that holds the oil dipstick guide in place, and the rear 8 head bolts. Now you should be able to pull the heads off and set them aside (if this is very difficult, it may be necessary to GENTLY pry the heads off on the corners, just be sure not to damage the mating surfaces). Set them aside and note which cylinder head is the front and which is the rear. After removal of the heads clean all of the mating surfaces with a razor and then acetone until they are perfectly clean. You should only be able to see bare metal and there should be VERY little to no gasket material left. Also clean the exhaust manifold mating surfaces, although these don’t necessary need to be quite as clean as the LIM gasket surfaces and the head gasket surfaces. Also gently clean out the inside of the cylinders/inspect them for major wear (make sure there isn’t any debris or coolant in them). If you notice some very bad scoring, cracks, large chips, or any other major imperfection you should have your car towed to have the block re-machined (assuming you just don’t want to buy a new engine).

*Reinstallation

35a.) Place the head gaskets onto the engine block making sure they line up and the correct side is facing up (there should be indicators that say “this side up” or something to that effect). Now gently lower the heads onto their respective spots the engine block
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Old 04-24-2007, 02:36 PM   #6
angrysk8r
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making sure you have them lined up correctly. After doing this place the 16 new head bolts into their respective spots on the heads (there should be 2 different sizes of head bolts, the shorter ones are the inner most bolts while the longer are the bolts closer to the exhaust manifold), now tighten the hand tight. After that, using the ft/lbs torque wrench, torque the head bolts to 37ft/lbs in this sequence (same sequence for the rear and front heads)
6 2 3 7
5 1 4 8
After tightening all of the 16 bolts, rotate each bolt an additional 90 degrees (1/4 turn) in the same sequence as before.
36a.) Install the new exhaust manifold gasket on the rear manifold and reinstall it. Bolt the down pipe to the rear manifold and bolt the catalytic converter back onto the down pipe. Bolt the crossover pipe to the rear manifold and then install the front exhaust manifold with the new gasket. Now bolt the crossover pipe back onto the front manifold. (There is no specific tightening sequence for the exhaust manifolds, just bolt them in a criss-cross manner)
37a.) Reinstall the accessory bracket and the engine hoist point. Bolt the small pulley back on, and then bolt the tensioner pulley back on (make sure the small aligning tab is inserted correctly in its base, I pointed it out in this picture



*Now resume the reinstallation from where you left off in the LIM gasket change reinstallation (step 30-60).

*Common Problems/FAQ*
Q1 - I have a milky substance under my oil cap, is this indicative of a LIM gasket failure?
A1 – Not necessarily, many people have reported a milky substance under their cap without a gasket failure (especially in winter).
Q2 – What are some indicators that my LIM gasket it failing/bad?
A2 – There are many potential indicators that the LIM gasket is going bad. One is that you are constantly loosing coolant but there is no visual indication (such as coolant spillage onto the ground). Another is that you are able to see coolant coming from in between the heads and the LIM. One bad indicator is that you are loosing coolant but your oil level is rising. If you happen to notice this, you should stop driving your car and change the gasket as soon as possible. If for some reason you cannot do that, you should change your oil right away and change it in extremely frequent intervals to prevent major engine damage (I’m talking like maybe once a week depending on how bad).
Q3 – What are some indicators that my head gasket is failing/bad?
A3 – Unfortunately, many of the same indicators are the same for both the LIM gasket and the head gaskets. One good way to test if your head gasket is bad is to have a cylinder compression test done on your car. Another indicator is that you’re loosing coolant at a very rapid pace (maybe even more so than at the LIM gasket).
Q4 – What are some common bolt sizes for the 3400 engine?
A4 – Nearly all of the bolt sizes are metric (in mm not in inches). The most common sizes are 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, and 15mm.
Q5 – Dexcool sucks! Can you change coolant to something like prestone or the green stuff?
A5 – Yes you can. However you will first need to flush out the entire system of dexcool before you put different coolant in. One of the easier ways to do this is to drain the radiator, refill with water, run/bleed the system, drain again, and repeat until you have clean water. Then drain as much water as you can and add the new coolant. Also note that dexcool is designed for very few coolant flushes, and with most of the other coolants you need to flush them more often.
Q6 – What are some recommended upgrades performance wise while doing the gasket changes?
A6 – Basically the sky is the limit on this. Ported and polished LIM/UIM, new valve springs, ported and polished heads, a new CAI, 180 degree thermostat, and basically anything you touch while doing this (short of a new cam/bottom end). Although I haven’t really covered any of that in the walkthrough.
Q7 – My car won’t start after the LIM/head gasket change!
A7 – Most likely, your car is not going to start right off the bat. Mainly that is due to some air that may have gotten into the fuel system/injectors. Once the system pushes all of the air out it should start up.
Q8 – My car starts, but it’s not idling correctly.
A8 – This is normal at first. However if these symptoms persist over the course of several days there is probably something wrong. The most common problem is a vacuum leak caused by air leaking in somewhere after the MAF. Check to make sure your UIM/LIM and throttle body is tightened correctly. Another potential problem could be dirty connections at the coil pack, spark plug wires, or the spark plugs.
Q9 – My car starts, but there is something definitely very wrong with the way it runs.
A9 – MAKE SURE you inserted your pushrods in the correct order and tightened your rocker arms to the correct torque specs. If you installed the pushrods in the wrong order you may have caused some serious damage (such as a bend valve, pushrod, damaged piston/head, etc). If you’re sure this has happened to you, you’re going to need to tear down the engine again and replace parts that were damaged.

*Here’s a URL compilation of all of the pictures I’ve used in this walkthrough and some others that I took but didn’t use. Some have been altered and some not, but all of them have been reduced in quality and size due to restrictions of hosting them. If you have need of some more high-quality shots for some reason or another feel free to private message me or email me at angrysk8r@hotmail.com.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...oilfilter1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...coverbolts.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4.../oilchange.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...rplenumoff.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...mapremoval.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...pperplenum.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ntohousing.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ndTSbypass.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...r/limisoff.jpg
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Old 04-24-2007, 02:37 PM   #7
angrysk8r
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Join Date: Sep 2005
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Posts: 331
Vehicle: 1999 Grand Am SE
angrysk8r Gettin' there
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ostatbolts.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4.../limbackon.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4.../tbremoval.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ectorwires.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ersinorder.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ailremoval.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...armremoval.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...rerelief-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...etmaterial.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...neremoval2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...alternator.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...gmountbolt.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...rodremoval.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...r/egrbolts.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...Sofftoside.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ysk8r/DONE.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ltsremoval.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...olantdrain.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...oilfilter2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...oilpackout.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...surerelief.jpg

rear manifold
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4.../IMG_1123c.jpg
accessory bracket
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4.../IMG_1099c.jpg
head bolts
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4.../IMG_1129c.jpg
tensioner pulley
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4.../IMG_1104c.jpg
accessory bracket, more bolts
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4.../IMG_1102c.jpg
front head (unaltered)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...r/IMG_1129.jpg
cylinders/block (unaltered)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...r/IMG_1128.jpg
cylinders/block 2 (unaltered)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...r/IMG_1127.jpg
rear manifold/ratchet extension
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...r/IMG_1126.jpg
rear manifold/ratchet extension 2
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...r/IMG_1125.jpg
rear manifold/ratchet extension 3
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...r/IMG_1124.jpg
rear manifold/down pipe studs (unaltered)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...r/IMG_1123.jpg
long ratchet extension
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...r/IMG_1112.jpg
front exhaust manifold
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...r/IMG_1110.jpg
crossover pipe to rear exhaust manifold
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...r/IMG_1109.jpg
crossover pipe to rear exhaust manifold 2
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...r/IMG_1108.jpg
crossover pipe to front exhaust manifold
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...r/IMG_1107.jpg
front exhaust manifold heat shield
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...r/IMG_1106.jpg
tensioner pulley (unaltered)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...r/IMG_1104.jpg
accessory bracket, more bolts (unaltered)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...r/IMG_1102.jpg
accessory bracket, more bolts 2 (unaltered)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...r/IMG_1101.jpg
accessory bracket 2 (unaltered)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...r/IMG_1100.jpg
accessory bracket 3 (unaltered)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...r/IMG_1099.jpg



If you see anything I left out, misspelled, messed up, etc make sure to let me know. Also if you would like to add anything PM me with what you think I should change.
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Old 04-25-2007, 10:33 PM   #8
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thats one of the well descriptive, How To guide I've seen, Bravo, Someone would find use to this in no time..
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Old 04-25-2007, 11:51 PM   #9
yogs10
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im seen that the torque wrench you have in the list the ft/lbs and in/lbs you could get only the one with ft/lbs and if you want in/lbs just divide for a make a conversion for example if the lim bolts need 168in/lbs just divide between 12 and you get 14 ft/lbs and just adjust your torque wrench to that and your done
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Old 04-26-2007, 02:17 AM   #10
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im doing this to my 3100, it was exactly how i am doing mine, awesome how to
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Old 04-26-2007, 10:03 PM   #11
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i just did mine a couple nights ago. my brother works at a dealership and he had a nifty little tool that compressed the spring and lifted the rocker off the rod, so you didn't have to mess w/ the rocker bolts, and it saved TONS of time. something to look into...
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Old 04-26-2007, 10:26 PM   #12
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holy nice write up man. good job lots of details. i honestly hope i dont have to do this anytime soon.
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Old 06-09-2007, 11:18 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jellyfish420 View Post
i just did mine a couple nights ago. my brother works at a dealership and he had a nifty little tool that compressed the spring and lifted the rocker off the rod, so you didn't have to mess w/ the rocker bolts, and it saved TONS of time. something to look into...
Was it easy to use on the rear as well?
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Old 06-12-2007, 10:15 AM   #14
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LIM bolts

Awesome thread! Thanks very much!
I noticed that you did not mention anything about the "upgraded LIM bolts" released by GM in a TSB-see bottom of this message.

Do you think these new bolts are really required?
They cost about $100 CAN for the set of 8, so I was wondering if anyone here feels they are required. It looks like they are the regular bolts, but now with loctite pre-applied. Do most people just use the old bolts and apply loctite, or are most buying these new bolts and using the new torque specs listed below?
Thanks for any advice- I need to do this repair this week.
---------------------------------------------------------
Notice

An oil leak may result if the vertical bolts are not tightened before the diagonal bolts.

Diagonal bolts may require a crows foot to tighten.
Tighten

1. Tighten the vertical lower intake manifold bolts (1) to 7N∑m (62 lb in).
2. Tighten the diagonal lower intake manifold bolts (2) to 7N∑m(62 lb in).
3. Tighten the vertical lower intake manifold bolts (1) to 13N∑m(115 lb in).
4. Tighten the diagonal lower intake manifold bolts (2) to 25N∑m(18 lb ft).

Parts Information

Part Number

Description

Qty

89017279

Intake manifold Gasket

1

11588915

Intake manifold bolt - short

4

11588914

Intake manifold bolt - long

4
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Old 06-12-2007, 11:41 AM   #15
angrysk8r
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I've always just reused the old LIM bolts, if anyone else has used the new ones and hasn't had a leak I'll add that to the walkthrough.
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Old 06-14-2007, 08:52 PM   #16
timberwoof
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I'm gonna do this next week. Wish my luck, luckily I've got help from a guy who use to race Grand Prix's
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Old 07-05-2007, 08:44 AM   #17
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I guess this question could be for anybody, but it's directed at angrysk8r

Which thermostat did you use?
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Old 07-08-2007, 11:52 AM   #18
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Whatever brand napa carries...but it's basically just the 195 degree stock replacement.
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Old 07-08-2007, 07:56 PM   #19
Itchy
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Thanks, I am going to try doing this next weekend. Your write up was a big help, thanks for saving me about $600.
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Old 10-28-2007, 03:30 PM   #20
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Does anyone know the exact differences that would need to be addressed for the walkthrough if you were to do this on the 3100? I've been working on addressing some of these but without a real reference I don't know what the differences might be.
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