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Old 11-15-2007, 06:02 PM   #21
MilzyZ34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angrysk8r View Post
Does anyone know the exact differences that would need to be addressed for the walkthrough if you were to do this on the 3100? I've been working on addressing some of these but without a real reference I don't know what the differences might be.
I can answer any questions you have about that.
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Old 12-02-2007, 09:48 PM   #22
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Did it this weekend... The walkthrough was a huge help, thanks.

$300 and a hangover, but I rather like it.

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Old 12-02-2007, 10:07 PM   #23
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glad to see the walkthrough helped!
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Old 12-02-2007, 11:43 PM   #24
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Why did you go from a NAPA Gold oil filter to a Fram Extra Guard oil filter ?



PS: +1 rep for the write-up
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Old 12-03-2007, 02:20 AM   #25
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ha yea, i had already started the oil change and was stupid and forgot a filter, only store open that late was wallmart and they were out of the mobil 1 oil filters of course. I went back to napa gold 1000 miles later
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Old 12-03-2007, 09:09 PM   #26
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great write up
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Old 02-08-2008, 12:56 AM   #27
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sorry, dug this post up. But had to give angrysk8r props for the write-up. Also, wanted to post pics of the LIM gasket failure that I took:

(if you don't see it, click on the pic. Then you'll see it...)
I've got pics of the milky valve covers if you want to see 'em too....

Thanks to this forum for saving me $$$. If anyone else is doing this (LIM or head gasket) repair, I'd be glad to offer help. (I only have experience on a 3400 though).
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Old 02-08-2008, 03:05 PM   #28
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yikes! that's a pretty bad failure, glad you caught it in time, that dexcool buildup looks really bad as well. glad to see that the walkthrough could help though!
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Old 02-18-2008, 08:30 AM   #29
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Very nice write up. I plan on doing this myself now. I had mine changed in summer '06 and is cost me parts and $100 in labor. Not a bad deal. But, I don't feel like having someone else fix it. Pet Peeve of mine.

Thanks for the How-To...
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Old 02-19-2008, 01:55 AM   #30
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More props to angrysk8r here. This write up was indispensable for me this weekend. I have no experience working on these cars, I come from mostly watercooled Vws. Without this I would've had to dig through the crappy Haynes manual. Thanks again man, you can find some pics of my results here:
VW guy new to Pontiac-Found Oil in Water?


I caught it way ahead of time, and it looks like very minimal amounts of oil if any was getting into the coolant. But I feel the work was worth it, now it has the metal and rubber gaskets in there and hopefully will last for a while.
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Old 03-10-2008, 12:59 AM   #31
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I brought my car to GM dealer about the LIM gasket, and they said this.
Customer can see fluid on the side of the block-Custom may suspects maybe antifreeze and can smell it burning off the block- Estimate and call- Tech Comments: check and found on front of engine poer steering hose where screws into pump, Also P/S hose leaking, checkback of engine found oil residue around intake silicone seal. Suggest fixing P/S hose and leave intake.- Tech story/////

I cleaned the Intake area with brake clean, looks like this now....should I worry?
Back of engine.

Front of engine see power steering pump.
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Old 03-10-2008, 11:34 PM   #32
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I'd say keep an eye on your fluid levels, if you notice an abnormal or accelerated leak then I would recommend replacing the problem part/gasket.
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Old 03-29-2008, 08:10 PM   #33
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I'm wondering first of all if these LIM instructions are also for a 2000 Grand Prix. I was directed to this thread from somewhere else and didn't notice that this was a grand AM forum until I noticed that the oil filter is somewhere different (along with the radiator drain plug).

I've seen people in this thread post that have Grand Prix in thier ride settings so and the Grand Prix had the LIM problems just like 10 other GM cars so I'm figuring it's the same walk through. Would like some confirmation though. Or tips on where the diff. would be. (are the torque settings the same) I would have scrapped the thread and followed the chilton if the Orielly's near me had had the right chilton.

Anyway, if someone could shoot me a response or something or email me that would be great. I'll be checking back. email is mycophiles1@gmail.com if you want to use that (*I'll get it quicker)

I emailed the OP yesterday and he didn't answer. :wtc:

BTW the car is on the ramps right now and I have all the parts. Prob. going to do this tomorrow if It's possible.

Last edited by Mycophiles; 03-29-2008 at 08:13 PM.
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Old 03-31-2008, 02:28 AM   #34
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Emailed, sorry, I forgot to update the walkthrough to my current email address until recently
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Old 04-05-2008, 09:34 PM   #35
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I don't understand the big stress on keeping the pushrods in order. Why is that? What about when you buy new rods?
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Old 04-06-2008, 09:06 AM   #36
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I don't understand the big stress on keeping the pushrods in order. Why is that? What about when you buy new rods?

It's not so crucial to keep them in exactly the same places as they were before. It's just that the intake and exhaust rods are different lengths and you have to make sure they are in the right place, so keeping them in order might make that easier, especially for the less experienced.
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Old 04-06-2008, 12:17 PM   #37
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Ah, that I understand. So, a friend of mine, we will call him Jon, didn't do that. How do you tell which ones are which?
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Old 04-06-2008, 01:55 PM   #38
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i think the exhaust rods are shorther than the intake but it could be the other way around.
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Old 04-06-2008, 07:13 PM   #39
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Yeah, actually the exhaust pushrods are the longer ones. You should be able to tell pretty easy when you install them too. The stock rockers set the pre-load on the lifters automatically, and if you install them backwards they shouldn't fit properly. Also you can kinda see that the rockers for the intake valves sit a little lower on the cylinder head. Anyway, line them up end to end and take all the longer ones and put them on the rockers for the exhaust valves.
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Old 04-07-2008, 10:30 AM   #40
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Ok, I'll tell him.... thanks
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