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Old 06-19-2009, 12:08 AM   #81
aiixon
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dude it's like 250 bucks including shipping for just a full head gasket set and the head bolts. that makes NO sense...
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Old 07-20-2009, 07:39 PM   #82
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AWESOME walk-through. It really helped alot! I would add a couple of things tho:

When you say you need a special bar with a square end to use on the belt tensioner, all you need is a 3/8" breaker bar. Worked great.

Also, I'd add that a recommended tool is a torque angle guage. When you're tightening down the heads, guesstimating 30 degrees after the initial torquing is a guessing game...got a torque angle guage off a buddy of mine for the night and it helped immensely.

Again, hella deadly walk-through. I can't tell you how much this helped!
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Old 08-14-2009, 01:32 PM   #83
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Since I didn't want to have my greasy mits all over my laptop while I was working in the garage, I made a printer friendly version of this guide. I take no credit for the content. I only put it in .pdf format. If any one wants the file, let me know. Also if anyone wants to host it, I can just link to it...
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Old 10-05-2009, 11:59 PM   #84
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Just got my engine back together and i have a couple questions for those that know these engines well.

1)i seem to have lost one of the wires that plugs into the coil packs. its the smaller one of the set of 2 that are side by side on the air filter side of the coil packs. anyone know where this plug comes from so i can search for it??

2)i routed one of the wire connections wrong; the one that comes out of the block (which im going to assume is the temperature sensor because it just connects to the block with a little ball as far as i recall) on the left side on that ridge between the heads just an inch away from where the lim meets the block right there. and then the other connection that connects to it from the fuel rail wire assembly. they are too far apart to connect, and im curious what this connection is for?? if i leave it unplugged until i have the energy to tear off the coil packs, map, fpr, air filter box, and some hoses and wires and then finally lift the lim off to re-route those wires, will it affect performance or throw any codes or anything??

3)what order do the spark plug wires connect in?? i didnt label then properly apparently.

4)i left the spark plug wires off and im not 100% sure if my battery is fully charged. but, when i went to crank it just to turn the engine over and make sure it was all "functional" i put it in the on position, and i heard the fuel pump going and some other sounds and then also (I THINK IT CAME FROM THE STARTER) came a clicking sound, just like click click click click every like 2 seconds or so.. and on every click the courtesy lights would dim. my friends dad said the battery just might not be charged and it doesnt have enough power to full power the starter relay or something and so it keeps opening and shutting.
so finally when i go to crank the engine it just makes one click and nothing happens.

I'm going to diagnose this tomorrow when i have daylight and hopefully its just a dead battery, but does anyone have any suggestions or answers to my questions??
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Old 10-06-2009, 12:10 AM   #85
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also does anyone have a picture of how the map sensor bolts on?? i cant figure it out.. its just dangling there hahahah
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Old 10-06-2009, 12:27 PM   #86
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Question Questions

I have does this once before about 45k ago. But i know the LIM is leaking again, I can see it on the block. But now I have a loud tapping noise and really crappy idle... sometimes fast, sometimes slow. also when you starting out it sputters a little bit. I did have a ses light and the code was for a #3 misfire. What could the tapping be? and with 121k should i pull the heads this time??
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Old 10-06-2009, 11:34 PM   #87
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I solved all problems myself. Still need a picture of exact MAP sensor location.
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Old 10-06-2009, 11:43 PM   #88
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Quote:
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also does anyone have a picture of how the map sensor bolts on?? i cant figure it out.. its just dangling there hahahah
There is a bracket that is screwed onto the back of the UIM and then the map sensor is screwed into that bracket. I have no pics.
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Old 10-07-2009, 01:08 AM   #89
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is it the back right bolt of the UIM with the welded nut/bolt combo?? does it go on there with a nut on top to hold it on?
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Old 12-02-2009, 11:50 AM   #90
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1.)

with the FPR nut circled in red and the fuel feed line nut circled in white, also note this is with the fuel rail removed).
I just finished putting everything back together and fuel is leaking out of the line you have circled in white...I remember having a heckuva time getting that line back in for some reason....is there anything special I missed about reinstalling this line? I made sure to put the little rubble grommet back in (though who knows if it stayed) I'm not looking forward to having to tear back down just to get to that fuel line, so any advice is most appreciated.
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Old 12-02-2009, 01:37 PM   #91
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if the o-ring fell off then it will leak. happened to me when i changed the gasket. you will have to tear it back down to replace it but some advice when you do, turn the key to the on position after connecting the fuel feed line. this will create fuel pressure so you can see if there is a leak before putting the uim and other stuff on.
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Old 12-03-2009, 08:10 AM   #92
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tore it back down, pulled the fuel line...the O-ring had tore when I put it back in...ugh.

Kudos to the OP on this thread, I followed it almost exclusively and it was a huge help.
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Old 12-03-2009, 01:49 PM   #93
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Alot of work to tear down again then reinstalleverything just for one snall a$$ piece.
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Old 12-04-2009, 09:03 PM   #94
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I just did my head gaskets about a month ago and instead of disconnecting the fuel lines I left it all hooked up to the fuel rail (injectors and all) and just loosened the bracket that holds the lines snug against the block so I could just lay it out of my way. I didn't have a single leak at all after putting it all back together. It is probably a useful step, but I found it easier to leave it all intact and just lay it out of my way.
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Old 02-20-2010, 01:04 AM   #95
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Walk Through

My AM has 96,000 miles and I've not had a single problem until two days before my wife rolled my 07 expedition! Thankfully she is ok. My Exp was totaled. Got a new car (Gap insurance a lifesaver) but now i NEED to do the AM.

The lowest estimate I could get was $1000 for labor. I am so broke now I can hardly pay attention. I decided to do the job myself with the help of my 16 year old son (The car will eventually be his). I picked up all the parts (Including torque wrench) it cost me about $350. It's been about 15 years since I've done any major engine work, so your walk through has been a godsend! The only major difference was the rear exhaust manifold heat shield. Mine has an upper and lower half and 6 bolts. The lower half was a bear!

I think my LIM and Head Gaskets went on me I am attaching a couple of pics. Your opinion would be appreciated.

I am down to the point of cleaning the heads and block surfaces. How clean do I need to get them?

I am starting the reassembly tomorrow, I am a bit apprehensive, but I was pretty anal about bagging and tagging parts. Was wondering if I ran across a snag if I could contact you for some advice?

Thanks

Doug

Ok I have to figure out how to include photos
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File Type: jpg 109_5758.jpg (139.4 KB, 59 views)
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Old 04-16-2010, 01:06 AM   #96
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datencio:

Been a couple of months since you posted in this thread so I will assume that you are back on the road by now? Just my opinion. That LIM gasket in your photo is TOAST for sure. The head gasket SUSPECT at best. I just finished mine and originally wasn't going to do the head gaskets but figured while I am there why not?

angrysk8r: props man! I can see a lot of work went into snapping photos and writing up your tutorial. It was HUGE for me! I was able to eliminate the Haynes manual. The one thing I hate about Haynes is they always assume the reader knows too much.

You can sure see the difference in quality between the stock gasket and the higher quality Re manufactured Felpro version.

Last thing that I wanted to add that may be extremely helpful during the "put back together stage." After you have seated all of the push rods in to all the rocker arms, crank the engine over by hand a few times. This will require 2 people. By taking off the front passenger side tire you will see 2 small round plastic clips that hold on a splash shield. Remove the clips via needle nose pliers. Behind the splash shield will gain you access to the balancer pulley. Using an extension you can get a 18mm (i think) socket onto the pulley bolt. Have your assistant crank the engine over by hand a few times while you inspect all the rods and rocker arms, making sure they behave as they should. If your plugs are in you may want to remove them for this step. Cranking over with plugs in causes lots of compression meaning its hard to crank the engine over by hand. Still doable just hard on the muscles of the guy cranking.

I found this step very valuable in my case. Had I skipped this step I would have been in the same boat as a previous poster. AKA: sounds like a lumpy cam, runs not good. 2 of my rods were NOT seated correctly. By cranking the engine by hand I could verify this and correct the problem before rebuilding. It was 2 rods on the back head. Its tough to see back there if the rods seat 100% correctly. Fronts NO problem!

Thanks again for this thread. HUGE VALUE for anyone taking on this job

Comparing the original CRAP gasket with the much higher quality Felpro design
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Old 04-16-2010, 05:07 PM   #97
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For owners who have used the Fel-Pro, is it really that much better than the new GM LIM gasket? Just bought a GM set with new bolts, am I just asking for it to take a crap soon? Also, RTV question- I can see the spot on the block where the RTV is supposed to go - do you guys typically run the bead of RTV up on top of the LIM gasket a bit too? Or do you jsut bead up the spots where there's no gasket?
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Old 05-02-2010, 02:46 PM   #98
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LIM/Fuel Line

What a great job you did on this technical writeup. I'm using your writeup as we "speak". Would you answer a question for me? I'm leaving the fuel rails in place. I've just disconnected both fuel lines. The front male fuel line inlet pulled out and away from the front fuel rail just fine. The rear male fule line (fits in the end of the rear rail) with the nut removed and metal line disconnected from the block refuses to come out of the rail. Obviously this prevents me from getting the LIM off. I can see it slightly moving around in there and it seems like it may be about 1" into the fuel rail opening. What might be preventing the line from slipping out of the d_mn rail? I've pulled on it and tapped on it with a wood block. It almost feels like it is mechanically attached in there but I know it is not. I would really appreciate your help here.

Thanks in advance,

Ted
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Old 05-02-2010, 05:46 PM   #99
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You have to pull hard, but you are most likely going to rip the o ring. And that o ring is like $13 at the dealership. None of the auto part stores carried it when I needed one.
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Old 10-22-2010, 07:04 PM   #100
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Does anyone know what the o ring is called? I'm trying to look it up on rockauto.

Also, is a crows foot necessary? If so, what size?
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