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Old 01-14-2008, 01:10 PM   #1
laura56083
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RPM's jumping and other problems

I have a 2000 grand am gt with 99,000 miles. I've been having lots of problems with the car and no one seems to understand what's going on. The worst thing is my RPM's decide to jump up and down all the time. I'll be comig to a stop with my foot on the brake and my rpm's jump up and my car wants to take off. I was wondering if anyone else had the same problem? The other thing is a clicking noise that sounds like my directionals are always on and sometimes it looks like smoke comes from the steering wheel.. I know I'm not seeing things . The OTHER thing is... everytime I hit a bump it I have this really loud rattling noise coming from my rear passenger side. It's been getting louder and louder. I have subs in my trunk and I KNOW it's not those because I've had them in there for 2 years and this noise just started a few months ago.

I hope someone can help with some things!!
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Old 01-14-2008, 05:09 PM   #2
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Rattling is probably strut mounts. It's common on these cars.

The turn signal noise is the turn signal switch itself (don't bother replacing the hazard switch cause it's not going to fix it).
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Old 01-14-2008, 05:52 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laura56083 View Post
I have a 2000 grand am gt with 99,000 miles. I've been having lots of problems with the car and no one seems to understand what's going on. The worst thing is my RPM's decide to jump up and down all the time. I'll be comig to a stop with my foot on the brake and my rpm's jump up and my car wants to take off. I was wondering if anyone else had the same problem? The other thing is a clicking noise that sounds like my directionals are always on and sometimes it looks like smoke comes from the steering wheel.. I know I'm not seeing things . The OTHER thing is... everytime I hit a bump it I have this really loud rattling noise coming from my rear passenger side. It's been getting louder and louder. I have subs in my trunk and I KNOW it's not those because I've had them in there for 2 years and this noise just started a few months ago.

I hope someone can help with some things!!
The jumpy idle could be caused by a faulty TPS sensor.. Throttle position sensor.. When the thing goes bad your idle will be jumpy and then the car will all of a sudden rev really high and stick there... This doesnt happen every start but will begin to happen often... The part is around $35-50 depending on where you go to replace it (dealer, autozone)
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Old 01-14-2008, 11:15 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorKoastal View Post
The jumpy idle could be caused by a faulty TPS sensor.. Throttle position sensor.. When the thing goes bad your idle will be jumpy and then the car will all of a sudden rev really high and stick there... This doesnt happen every start but will begin to happen often... The part is around $35-50 depending on where you go to replace it (dealer, autozone)
gmpartsdirect.com has them for $30 plus shipping. i had this same problem a while back.
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Old 01-16-2008, 10:53 AM   #5
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hey guys..i tried a new TPS and its still doing the same thing..im so lost
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Old 01-16-2008, 03:20 PM   #6
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hey guys..i tried a new TPS and its still doing the same thing..im so lost
Im thinking you might have a cracked hose somewhere causing a vacumn leak or possibly its the IAC sensor (above the TPS) that is acting up...

Hopefully its one of these two..

Just to make sure have you checked/changed all of the spark plugs recently?
Check your coil packs (where the spark plugs meet at the top of the motor). Make sure they arent too beat up looking and also pull the wires (one at a time) to make sure the post are clean and not rusted/dirty..

Has the PCV been changed recently.. Sometime the hose that pipes into the PCV will get cracked on the 90 degree bend.. This will cause a vacumn leak.
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Old 01-19-2008, 10:57 AM   #7
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its your MAF(Mass Air Flow) Sensor. Have it cleaned or replaced. I had the same problem 2 weeks ago.
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Old 11-11-2008, 11:52 AM   #8
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im having the same problem, did you ever get your problem resolved laura?
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Old 12-31-2008, 10:13 AM   #9
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Does it stall out at a low RPM?
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Old 12-31-2008, 12:42 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I)ark-ChiLD View Post
its your MAF(Mass Air Flow) Sensor. Have it cleaned or replaced. I had the same problem 2 weeks ago.
x2, mine does the exact same thing when my clapm for the CAI comes loose. its a b*tch to get it on there right sometimes.
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Old 12-31-2008, 08:38 PM   #11
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Clean your MAF, you can get the cleaner at autozone(MAF CLEANER), could be tps, Also thinking a bad o2 sensor could do this too
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Old 01-02-2009, 02:28 AM   #12
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Ive Had The Same Prob...
Makes It Seem Like I Dont Know How To Drive...haha
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Old 01-02-2009, 03:13 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zukiracer19 View Post
Clean your MAF, you can get the cleaner at autozone(MAF CLEANER), could be tps, Also thinking a bad o2 sensor could do this too
had the same problem a couple years ago. it was the O2 sensor on the fritz
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Old 05-12-2010, 02:03 AM   #14
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Does it stall out at a low RPM?
I'm having the same problem. At one point the CEL did come on indicating that the TPS was bad. Replaced that and still having the same problem. The idle will jump around, rev past 3000, then drop to a low RPM and stall. I will try cleaning out the MAF next, but are there any other possible causes?
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Old 05-12-2010, 04:34 PM   #15
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Dirty MAF, faulty TPS sensor, faulty IAC valve, vacuum leak somewhere, fouled or worn out O2 sensor... all of those can cause the rpm to jump around.
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Old 05-16-2010, 11:54 PM   #16
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Cool

Maybe we all have been ignoring the fuel pressure regulator as the culprit. The fuel pressure regulator has a diaphram inside that if cracked, broken or with a hole in it; raw fuel could be sucked into the manifold by the vacuum hose attached to the fuel pressure regulator itself. The raw fuel mixed with correct fuel-air inside the combustion chamber(s); would cause the upstream oxygen sensor to tell the computer to lean the mixture in relation to engine load-- at same time the downstream oxygen sensor feeds back the info to the computer , that the correct air-fuel ratio was acheived. That is why when you throttle back--it stops surging.
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Old 05-17-2010, 04:53 PM   #17
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Maybe we all have been ignoring the fuel pressure regulator as the culprit. The fuel pressure regulator has a diaphram inside that if cracked, broken or with a hole in it; raw fuel could be sucked into the manifold by the vacuum hose attached to the fuel pressure regulator itself. The raw fuel mixed with correct fuel-air inside the combustion chamber(s); would cause the upstream oxygen sensor to tell the computer to lean the mixture in relation to engine load-- at same time the downstream oxygen sensor feeds back the info to the computer , that the correct air-fuel ratio was acheived. That is why when you throttle back--it stops surging.

Usually if the diaphragm is bad you'll see fuel leaking around the hose on top because the fuel pressure is pretty high.

Also you've got the operation of the O2 sensors wrong. The "upstream" O2 sensor, or rather the primary or "bank 1" sensor which is before the cat, makes fuel corrections to the mixture after combustion, and has nothing to do with throttle input or engine load. The MAF sensor does that. The second O2 sensor, the one after the cat, only tells the computer if the cat is working properly and doesn't have anything to do with fuel adjustments at all.
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Old 06-01-2010, 11:40 PM   #18
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hey thats good to know! i was wondering about that second O2 if it had any involvement with the fuel adjustments. I just ran my data logger and on a line graph my Bank1-S2 is more or less a flat line with the occasional jump about twice per screen and the upstream, Bank1-S1 is doing the usual quick up and down.

What do you think would cuz my car to create a major hesitation at WOT?
At about 5K it will jerk and the RPM will shoot down to around 3K then come back really fast and hold but very noticeable loss of power all around.
No engine codes, fuel pressure is good and seems to have a good A/F reading. Spark plugs are from last fall and wires are about one month old. Ignition control module is also about 6 months old. Possibly coils? or maybe not even an ignition problem...
I am running really rich, like a 12-11.5:1 A/F and have a 28lb injectors with a reprogram
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Old 06-02-2010, 04:38 PM   #19
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Well, if that's your engine in your avatar pic.... using an RSM kit with no MAF sensor, there is your problem right there. MAF sensor is required for proper fuel metering and as a measurement of engine load used by the transmission programming. 100% positive that is causing your problem. Modify the kit to put the MAF sensor back in, and get it reprogrammed.
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Old 06-02-2010, 05:08 PM   #20
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Aaron, click the pic of his avatar and it shows a bigger, different pic. in that setup, there is a MAF just in front of the TB

btw Steven, NICE!!!
dyno numbers yet?

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