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Old 02-17-2008, 08:28 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lastyear4gt View Post
Looks great, but thats alot of money just to convert to a manual. Original though.......
That isnt a lot of money at all. The car wasnt available with a manual transmission so it is entirely custom. Take it to a shop and see what they charge you to do something like this. Easily 30 hours or more of labor, plus paying outrageous markup on parts.

Modifying cars isnt a cheap hobby.
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Old 02-17-2008, 10:22 AM   #22
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Amazing progress so far...looking forward to seeing this thing completed!!!
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Old 02-17-2008, 10:30 AM   #23
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Just a suggestion, but perhaps a half shaft bracket from a beretta or earlier cavalier would work like this one:

http://www.bstuff.com/index.php?show...8&#entry685098

If the bearing is not the right size for the 6 spd shaft, im sure the correct bearing could be found. That bracket will bolt up to a 3400, this I know first hand.

Edit: This would have to assume that the distance from the axle hole to the block is the same as the older getrags, perhaps someone already knows if this is the same or not?

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Old 02-17-2008, 09:37 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AaronGTR View Post
Yeah, I knew you were gonna have trouble with that bracket. They changed the mounting bosses on the back of the block on the 3500 and 3900. There was never any doubt the block would bolt to the tranny though. We all know they share the same bolt pattern.

Looks like you've made a lot of progress. Lots of good info here too. I think I would have waited to make a "how-to" thread until it was all installed and working though.
I was debating waiting till the end too, but I figured this way there's less chance of me leaving stuff out this way

Quote:
Originally Posted by lastyear4gt View Post
Looks great, but thats alot of money just to convert to a manual. Original though.......
original, one of a kind is right
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Originally Posted by Rodney3400 View Post
Just a suggestion, but perhaps a half shaft bracket from a beretta or earlier cavalier would work like this one:

http://www.bstuff.com/index.php?show...8&#entry685098

If the bearing is not the right size for the 6 spd shaft, im sure the correct bearing could be found. That bracket will bolt up to a 3400, this I know first hand.

Edit: This would have to assume that the distance from the axle hole to the block is the same as the older getrags, perhaps someone already knows if this is the same or not?
you have to be a member to view those pictures, the bearing is correct for the G6 axle, it's bolt holes on the back of the block that vary as AaronGTR had said. distance of the hole to the block i don't know if that's any different, this was the easiest way of doing it with out having a CNC maching available.
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Old 02-17-2008, 10:01 PM   #25
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so here's what the GA looks like after about 6 hours on the car yesterday:


this is a picture of the right side of the engine bay, if you notice something is missing:



the six speed is wider then the 4t45e, and the left side mount is in the way of it, so I drilled out nine spot welds and removed the transmission mount that was welded to the frame.
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Old 02-17-2008, 11:01 PM   #26
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keep the updates coming; cant wait to see the final product. Keep up the good work
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Old 02-18-2008, 08:57 AM   #27
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question for all of you, do you think that I should solid mount the transmission and engine to the frame? meaning no rubber mounts.

I have had a solid urethane front mount for the last couple months, and when the car misfires, which I've had more and more, the vibration at the steering wheel get's a little worse, nothing that ever bothered me. but considering the engine will run like it should, smooth, and at a higher idle of about ~800 rpm with the stick tranny, anyone have any reasons why i shouldn't solid mount?
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Old 02-18-2008, 09:15 AM   #28
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Unless you want to feel every single vibration from that engine and transmission, I would leave the mounts in.
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Old 02-18-2008, 05:41 PM   #29
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I would put it on some poly mounts. Still pretty stiff, but not ridiculous. You cant make it too uncomfortable to drive or ride in.
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Old 02-18-2008, 11:07 PM   #30
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well here's an update for what I've done today 2-18-08:

the transmission and block fit in the engine bay with the driver's side automatic transmission mount removed (see post #25)


there is enough room to not have to chop the frame, this thing fits like a glove, it's like it was made for this car, I'm thrilled

I'll have urethane mounts front and rear. (home made one , there's a how-to around here some where). I've had one on for some time and it has worked very well. for the rear mount, as will mention later, filled the stock G6 rear mount with urethane and use that. with a slight mod to it as mentioned below.



the above pic is actually the G6 rear mount, slightly modified to fit the grand Am bracket, the G6 mound is about 1/2 inch wider, so I chopped off about 1/4 off each side and it fit great only thing is that it pull the engine/trans towards the rear, and thus angling everything,

the above pic is the bracket that i cut off that is not needed. it sits under the stock air box, but since i don't even have that, AND it get's in the way of the shift linkage, so I cut it off right under the fuse box, also the ears on the left corner of the box aren't needed either, so those are going too. they get in the way, especially when you have to move wires out of the way.

side view, the trans does not hit the frame it does push out the plastic shield a little, but that will have to be cut anything to make a side lower mount, more on this later.



the following pic i pulled out the fuse box out of it's home seating position and behind it on the wire wall you see two bolts about 3 inches apart, that's where the hydrolic clutch cylinder goes. I did some comparing of the clutch pedal assembly, and earlier I had a picture of it, apparently the huge aluminum piece is not needed, we already have that in the cars, it sits above the steering column under the dash, what is needed is every little thing that's bolted to it that only the stickshift cars require.
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Old 02-19-2008, 12:06 AM   #31
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best thread on gagt.com in a while, nice work so far

funny reading the "how much to do this" "thats too much!" comments

3000$ isnt a lot of money to spend modding a car...
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Old 02-19-2008, 05:50 AM   #32
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couple things..

1st... Tim, you rock..

and 2nd.. asI said in the past if you need any help you know you have my # and email so dont be afraid to use them
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Old 02-19-2008, 06:56 AM   #33
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Awesome progress! I'm watching this with much interest
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Old 02-19-2008, 06:59 AM   #34
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Awesome progress! I'm watching this with much interest
x2 Nice job, I hope you don't run into any huge obstacles down the line.
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Old 02-19-2008, 07:08 AM   #35
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best thread on gagt.com in a while, nice work so far

funny reading the "how much to do this" "thats too much!" comments

3000$ isnt a lot of money to spend modding a car...
well most people spend a little here and some there, maybe a grand on wheels 300-500 on exhaust, then another couple hundred on engine mods, then another 100 on pcm, then intake, etc. add that up and that's a couple grand right there. I just spent the same money but for a single goal in mind, basically 300 over the last 6 months to gather all the parts i needed.

thank guys, will keep you posted. Mark, I will def keep you in mind, i still need to do all the pcm work, etc. check you PM's.
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Old 02-19-2008, 08:30 AM   #36
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Wow nice work finally someone that isnt all talk, more than I would spend on a GA but props to you for doing the research and going thru with it. Keep the mounts in there you'll be vibrating the entire car without them, take the stock mounts and fill them with urethane it stiffens them up a lot but still leaves a little give to absorb some vibration. I filled the mounts on my car 5 years later its still holding up fine
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Old 02-19-2008, 08:37 AM   #37
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Looks good. I like these types of threads. Good Read.
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Old 02-19-2008, 08:51 AM   #38
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Quote:
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Wow nice work finally someone that isnt all talk, more than I would spend on a GA but props to you for doing the research and going thru with it. Keep the mounts in there you'll be vibrating the entire car without them, take the stock mounts and fill them with urethane it stiffens them up a lot but still leaves a little give to absorb some vibration. I filled the mounts on my car 5 years later its still holding up fine
thanks, I did just that, i bought 80 A urethane and filled two mounts, one i've been driving with already, and going to use the other for the rear. I think it's a really good DIY, very cost effective vs buying the 150$ aluminum ones, and the results are noticable.
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Old 02-19-2008, 08:58 AM   #39
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best thread on gagt.com in a while, nice work so far


Awesome thread, very informative and well structured.
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Old 02-19-2008, 02:45 PM   #40
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yeah great thread this and the other one u started when the reseach began on this wer dead slow in the shop so it kept me busy all day great read. cant wait till u geta video of u driving it then ill have to start mines
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