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Old 04-26-2009, 10:46 PM   #1
realestdriver
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HOW TO: Swap in a 3500 (LX9)

URL to my photobucket pictures: http://s562.photobucket.com/albums/s...petitionready/



The first thing you should know is that the LX9 swap is not for beginners. If you wouldn't dare put heads on your car, then this is definitely not for you either. The project took me three days to complete, even with all my experience on N-body vehicles. One day for engine removel, one for swapping parts, and one for lx9 installation. I would rather motivate people than deter them, but you never want to get in over your head on a big project like this one.

*Swap was done on a 99' GAGT
*Engine taken from 06' G6 with 44k

1) You will want to have your engine side-by-side for the swapping of parts. I would start from the top and work my way down. I always do the upper intake manifold(UIM) and fuel rails first. I did everything simulatously, so excuse me if I only mention instructions for one engine. Take off the UIM and carefully take out the fuel injectors with wiring harness attached( one side at a time works ok). Carefully pop in the 3400 injectors still attached to the fuel rail on your 3500 LIM. At the point you will want to take your temperature sending unit from your old engine and screw it into the rear head on the thermostat side.
*99 GA guys don't forget to swap out the cam sensor
*The temp sending unit has been moved off the LIM and onto the side of the rear head, so need to extend the wiring harness for this sensor.

2) Place the UIM on if you have all injector plugged. Take off the black coolant pipe that runs around the side of the engine and attaches to the throttle body if you haven't already for the 3400. That needs to go on the 3500(could be optional, but doesn't work out well).

3) Swap over the oil pans, there is not a sensor on the bottom of the LX9.
* If your LX9 did not come with the bracket that bolts to the differential, you will need one to complete your swap. The 3400 brackets bolts to the block in a slightly different location.

4) Swap any sensors over that you see are different. There will be one on each side of the 3500 that you can just leave in(square plugs). Leave the crankshaft position sensor on the back of the engine in as well.

5) To install TCE external crankshaft pulley, take off crank pulley off from each engine. The underlaying crankshaft sensor (arched)from the 3400 needs to be swapped to the 3500. Put the 3400 pulley onto the 3500 block with the TCE wheel on the front. Tap it on some, then take a impact and snug it all the way up (make sure its in the notch). You'll need to loosen the TCE main piece to get it bolted to the block. Once you get it on the block, you can adjust it zero with the sensor in it.
*Make sure you slip the belt on before you insert the CPS in the crank trigger slot, because there will not be enough space to get it on after that without take the sensor out again.
*As most people know by now, the crank trigger is the most important part of this swap, because otherwise it will not work.

6) Swap out the exhaust manifolds, this is very easy. You will want to be careful when removing the manifold bolts on the LX9, because if you break even one off in your aluminum head, you will have an exhaust leak if you don't fix it. You might want to even find the torque specs for the manifolds.
*While you have the exhaust manifolds off, you will want to swap out the thermostat housings and heat core piping that wrap around the motor.

7) There will be several pieces on the passenger side of the motor that will need to be swapped to complete the serpetine belt setup and the motor mount. Make sure it has all the pieces of the original setup.
http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/s...y/102_0684.jpg

7) You're just about there, look over everything you've done and do a checklist. If you miss anything make sure its not on the bottom before you put it back in.

My LX9 has been doing good for over three years now. It has seen its share of abuse too, but it has been very dependable.

Milzy Motorsports makes a kit that help make this swap easier. It includes the crank trigger and addresses problems with a/c compressor spacing, wire extensions, coil pack bracket and rear motor mount location.

***You do not need to live and die by these instructions. Use common sense when it comes to swapping out necessary parts.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg img064.jpg (169.8 KB, 229 views)
File Type: jpg 100_0972.jpg (98.5 KB, 137 views)
File Type: jpg 100_0958.jpg (188.6 KB, 188 views)
File Type: jpg 100_0960.jpg (138.1 KB, 141 views)
File Type: jpg 100_0968.jpg (154.2 KB, 155 views)

Last edited by realestdriver; 02-24-2013 at 11:23 PM. Reason: updates
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Old 04-26-2009, 11:00 PM   #2
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I think that anybody who is doing an engine swap knows what they are doing so they won't need a how-to. And on the flip side, I know if I wanted to try this, this is not nearly enough information for a noob such as myself. I mean good job, but you need way more details.
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Old 04-27-2009, 12:43 AM   #3
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I think that anybody who is doing an engine swap knows what they are doing so they won't need a how-to. And on the flip side, I know if I wanted to try this, this is not nearly enough information for a noob such as myself. I mean good job, but you need way more details.
I must admit, this not a "how to swap a 3500 for dummies." I was asked to do this much. I can't sit here and tell everything little thing I did to satisfy an obsence of elementary mechanics. This is to give people an idea of what they are getting themselves into and a reference for sucessful alternatives. I have looked on the net since January and it doesn't get a whole lot better than this. But I'd like to thank all the ppl that helped along the way, including those on this forum and my father (big help, but doesn't respect my v6 still ).

Last edited by realestdriver; 04-27-2009 at 01:02 AM.
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Old 04-27-2009, 08:25 AM   #4
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Good job man! I give you props for going ahead and doing it.
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Old 04-27-2009, 08:42 AM   #5
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Ditto. I was looking to see if you swapped the tranny too and had put the manual automatic in it.
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Old 04-28-2009, 08:32 AM   #6
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nice.... more pics, please....
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Old 05-01-2009, 09:09 PM   #7
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im anxious to see more pictures!
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Old 05-01-2009, 10:15 PM   #8
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im anxious to see more pictures!
I did take a few pictures of it on the stand, but they really won't help you with the install. I never understood why I could never find any pics online, but everything moves so fast and your so dirty that you forget. I'll get up everything I have once I get on my dsl connection back home.
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Old 05-06-2009, 07:00 AM   #9
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I saw a cheap LX9 on eBay and thought about this kind of swap.

What's to say you can't leave the engine as-is and use the LX9 PCM with wiring harness? Or doesn't it match up with the interior wiring?
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Old 05-06-2009, 08:40 AM   #10
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Need pics and vids when you get it running!
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Old 05-06-2009, 02:42 PM   #11
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Has anyone done the 3500 swap?

I also did this swap back in March. Used an lx9 with 26k from a 2004 Malibu. Already but 3,000 miles on it and no problems. I can give any details you need, while they are still in my head. I was also going to post a "How To".
Honestly its not that hard...just time consuming. I did 90% of the work myself and took about 30 hours in about 5 days.
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Old 09-14-2009, 01:26 PM   #12
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LX9 swap pics

if anyone wants me to take more pictures let me know
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Old 09-14-2009, 03:14 PM   #13
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like the catch can setup you got 2000gagt
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Old 09-14-2009, 04:58 PM   #14
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thanks, i got tired of cleaning out my intake over the years
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Old 09-21-2009, 08:29 AM   #15
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just wondering the benefits of this swap? more power? more potential? more parts available? reliability?
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Old 09-23-2009, 06:11 AM   #16
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props for the skill to switch fail on the how to, more detail more pics and the video has been removed bythe user......
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Old 09-26-2009, 12:53 PM   #17
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there are some benefits to the swap...my biggest was going from an LA1 engine with 186K to an LX9 with 26K.

- higher compression 9.8:1 vs 9.5:1
- oil squiters on the two hottest cylinders
- larger throat on the upper intake manifold and you can adapt the 65mm throttle body
- adjustable timing +10/-5 from the external crank trigger
- better lower intake manifold gasket design so it should never leak
- better designed for oil filter position
- longer pushrods
- of course larger cylinders 3.5L vs 3.4L
- Steel crank
- Same redline
- probably a bunch im forgetting

I would say the engine is more reliable but of course time will tell.

as far as power, the G6 is rated with this engine 200HP @ 5600 and 220TQ @ 3900
I believe our 3400 is 175 @ 4800 and 205 @ 4000 so the 3.5l has a stronger powerband

Last edited by 2000GAGT; 09-28-2009 at 12:02 PM.
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Old 09-26-2009, 04:08 PM   #18
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- better designed for oil filter position
on a grand am it is so much worse, atleast on mine it is.
you pretty much have to twist off by hand. ..I have a new picture on the spacing up there^^^^
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Old 09-26-2009, 04:33 PM   #19
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i do like the new positioning of it a lot better
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Old 10-19-2009, 11:15 PM   #20
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So for that tranny to engine bracket, if you swap over the upper bracket from the 3400 it'll work? I read 2000gagt's thread about his being a pain and taking an hour to get together.
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