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Old 06-19-2011, 05:08 PM   #1
eckoxl
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Transmission Tuning

Now that I've finally got a grip on tuning engine-wise, I'm looking to tweak my transmission a little bit. It seems like it's not getting the adequate amount of line pressure and its just limping along. My car was first 'professionally' tuned by a local shop, but I have been reading some posts/reviews about that shop now and they aren't/haven't been doing that great of a job.

I'm looking to basically make my transmission feel stronger while driving (don't know if I worded that right). It just feels weak while driving; it felt much stronger before I brought it to that local shop.

Can any of my boosted brothers give me a hand and some tips? I can post up my BIN if needed.
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Old 06-19-2011, 06:06 PM   #2
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You can increase the line pressure in HPT.

I don't know how far you should push it though...

Drive in 3 and see if you like how that feels. 3rd gear selection raises the line pressure in the transmission.
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Old 06-19-2011, 06:32 PM   #3
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Put 0 on all your torque abuse settings... let that sucker open up.
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Old 06-19-2011, 07:36 PM   #4
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So I loaded the DHP 1.5 trans stuff into my bin and the feels a hell of a lot better. Much, much firmer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zukiracer19 View Post
Put 0 on all your torque abuse settings... let that sucker open up.
How would I got about doing that and will doing that harm the trans?
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Old 06-19-2011, 11:07 PM   #5
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Refresh our memory... what did you do to the trans when you rebuilt it?


If your clutches are strong enough there are some things you can do to improve shift feel. In tiny tuner there are a ton of options, and even in DHP there are a lot. Some of them are pretty basic, and many of them a lot of people (including me) haven't even played with yet or know what exactly they will affect. Increasing the line pressure a bit would be a good place to start, but there is a limit to what that will do. Also the programming naturally wants to decrease line pressure on shifts and during certain "abuse" situations in order to protect the hard parts in the trans. Disabling or reducing the torque abuse settings will reduce the amount of pressure drop on the shifts, thereby making the clutches grab stronger and transfer more power. Just remember the more power is transferred to the hard parts of the trans the great chance of something breaking.

It's basically walking a fine line between too much clutch slip and wearing them out versus possibly breaking something. No one has spent that much time playing with the trans tuning (to my knowledge) and figuring out where things start to break. I will say though, there is a limit to how much you can make the clutches grab. Because there is a limit to the line pressure, and the trans adaptive learn feature in the stock programming can't be defeated at this time and will change your shifting over time. The only real way around it is to do a full write which resets the data for that in the PCM.
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Old 06-20-2011, 12:48 AM   #6
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Todd told me, expect a transmission upgrade quick because he already had all the settings turned off... its really how much power you wanna restrict... but id get a scrap transmission and start building it on the side, expect 3 grand at least. but i was boosted for about 25,000 miles before i had to upgrade... and i had my fair share of beating..
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Old 06-20-2011, 11:38 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zukiracer19 View Post
Todd told me, expect a transmission upgrade quick because he already had all the settings turned off... its really how much power you wanna restrict... but id get a scrap transmission and start building it on the side, expect 3 grand at least. but i was boosted for about 25,000 miles before i had to upgrade... and i had my fair share of beating..
Three grand?!?!

I spent about 350 bucks on parts for a rebuild kit, blue plate clutches, and pistons.

If you throw a diff. and some other little things in there and you build it yourself...I don't see how you can get to three grand!
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Old 06-20-2011, 01:34 PM   #8
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Probably 3 grand if you had someone else pull it and do the rebuild for you. iirc I think I paid around 1200-1500 for mine with me pulling it and installing it myself, and someone else doing the rebuild for me. I got it done cheap since I knew the person, and you could do it cheap if you are capable enough to rebuild it yourself. I also used the EP LSD which was the most expensive part at $850. Without a diff, it can be done much cheaper... and while nice, the diff isn't absolutely required. It's not the greatest diff anyway.
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Old 06-20-2011, 01:42 PM   #9
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Trans was completely built and done by someone else. Don't have the lift or cherry picker to do it...
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Old 06-20-2011, 05:18 PM   #10
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Are you using HP Tuners? Have you installed a trans mount, a real one and not a factory one? From Milzy or Ben I mean?
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Old 06-20-2011, 05:22 PM   #11
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I didn't know the factory ones weren't "real" trans mounts. I guess they are fake?
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Old 06-20-2011, 05:30 PM   #12
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They suck donkey ballz dude! You would be the first one to know that!! LOL
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Old 06-20-2011, 07:46 PM   #13
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Quote:
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They suck donkey ballz dude! You would be the first one to know that!! LOL

Why would that be? None of mine ever failed or ripped. Yes, they are too soft for an engine with a lot more power, but that doesn't mean you need to buy a super fancy billet mount from someone that costs a gazillion dollars. The metal part of the mounts are cast iron and stamped steel and are plenty strong. You just have to reinforce the rubber insert. Nothing a $17 can of urethane casting compound can't cure. http://www.mcmaster.com/#casting-compounds/=cu40fk #8644K57. It's cheap and just as effective.
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Old 06-20-2011, 08:41 PM   #14
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However you slice it, either insert it or upgrade it and it will give you more room to set that trans up. You will actually have the trans last a lot longer if you do something with that mount. Shift pressure and shift times will make a huge difference to the amount of slip he's subjected to. Creates far too much heat, and destroys bands. Pretty easy to set the shift to be nice down low and give a real kick in the pants up top with a good mount in there.
Oh, to add, blew two factory mounts before upgrading and that was on a stock motor before Milzy ever touched it.

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Old 06-20-2011, 09:44 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AaronGTR View Post
Refresh our memory... what did you do to the trans when you rebuilt it?
The normal: pistons, clutch packs, etc...

Quote:
Originally Posted by zukiracer19 View Post
Todd told me, expect a transmission upgrade quick because he already had all the settings turned off... its really how much power you wanna restrict... but id get a scrap transmission and start building it on the side, expect 3 grand at least. but i was boosted for about 25,000 miles before i had to upgrade... and i had my fair share of beating..
i'll be doing a manual swap when this one goes. and again, how would i go about changing those settings?

Quote:
Originally Posted by MMGT1 View Post
Are you using HP Tuners? Have you installed a trans mount, a real one and not a factory one? From Milzy or Ben I mean?
DHP/Tiny Tuner and I'm using a factory one with no problems.
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Old 06-21-2011, 05:18 PM   #16
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Could you post a screen shot of the fllowing:

1) Force Motor Current vs. Commanded Lne Pressure Positive
2) Desired Shift Time vs. Torque
3) Shift Presure Normal
4) Max Pressure
5) Auto Shift Speed Normal/Hot
6) Full Throttle Shift Speed Normal/Hot
7) Full Throttle Shift RPM Normal/Hot
8) TCC Duty Cycle Max/Min
9) Apply/Release TCC Normal

We can start there and see what you have going on. If its too much to put here, toss it on Photobucket or something and just post a link.
What shift RPM are you comfortable with? Im shifting around 6600, but whatever you are comfortable with is what we will shoot for.
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Old 06-21-2011, 09:42 PM   #17
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hmmm let me reinstall my laptop tomorrow i need to get it prepared for retuning the ga one last time before ... ill tell you all my settings. honestly kill the trans, gives you more of a reason to put a better one in... i still couldnt believe the abuse the stock one took and how long it lasted...
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Old 06-22-2011, 10:10 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MMGT1 View Post
Could you post a screen shot of the fllowing:

1) Force Motor Current vs. Commanded Lne Pressure Positive
2) Desired Shift Time vs. Torque
3) Shift Presure Normal
4) Max Pressure
5) Auto Shift Speed Normal/Hot
6) Full Throttle Shift Speed Normal/Hot
7) Full Throttle Shift RPM Normal/Hot
8) TCC Duty Cycle Max/Min
9) Apply/Release TCC Normal

We can start there and see what you have going on. If its too much to put here, toss it on Photobucket or something and just post a link.
What shift RPM are you comfortable with? Im shifting around 6600, but whatever you are comfortable with is what we will shoot for.
I'll post them up tomorrow and that shift point sounds fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zukiracer19 View Post
hmmm let me reinstall my laptop tomorrow i need to get it prepared for retuning the ga one last time before ... ill tell you all my settings. honestly kill the trans, gives you more of a reason to put a better one in... i still couldnt believe the abuse the stock one took and how long it lasted...
awesome, thanks.
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Old 06-22-2011, 10:40 PM   #19
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Quote:
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I'll post them up tomorrow and that shift point sounds fine.
6600 RPM ? Hesus freakin frog!
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Old 06-22-2011, 10:53 PM   #20
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Yeah, I wouldn't shift at that rpm, even with a modified 4T45E. They are only rated to shift at a max of 6500 rpm, and the higher you go the harder it is to get the clutches to grab. And revving that high isn't a good idea without the right engine modifications. Definitely a heavy duty timing chain, and I'd want the rotating assembly balanced if it was me and I wanted the engine to last at all.

The shop that did my engine work told me they could balance my internals so I could run up to 7000 rpm. I decided not to spend the money for it since the trans wouldn't like it anyway, and I'd rather wait to spend the money on balancing until I can afford forged pistons and rods.
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