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Old 07-23-2011, 05:00 PM   #21
lastyear4gt
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Originally Posted by AaronGTR View Post
It just needs higher octane and lower temps, so I will probably be adding a water/meth injection kit to it eventually since that will address both,.
Thats a very good point. I have a cooling mist meth kit in the car that I could never really get to work correctly so I took it off line. The problem was that the system was an on/off kit not a progressive ramping kit My plan was to sell the meth setup and buy an intercooler but maybe I'll get a meth controller and give it another go.

9.5 psi on a 2.4" pulley? Wow I only get 7 on a 2.6". 2.5 psi on a .2" bigger pulley? Wow I guess your red line attributes to that.
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Old 07-24-2011, 12:16 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by MAC the KNIFE View Post
iirc Aaron was running a 2.4 when he did the last dyno run. it was a 60 degree day, and his air temps were near 100, about 9.5 lbs of boost.

Fenderwell Mount IC
i don't know what happened to most of the pictures on this thread, but it's a fenderwell mounted liquid to air IC. you might ask him how much his temps dropped, and what pulley he was using.
For those attempting to intercool the Magnacharger, two suggestions.

Air to air, I'd try to configure it like this one, max charge inlet/outlet area:



And because the TB is now much farther from the IM, -- plan ahead to upgrade the bypass, go from the EGR (deleted) inlet around the intercooler to the IM inlet. This one (Bosch) should work up to 12 psi.



And then, of course, you need a custom inlet upper intake manifold.
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Old 07-24-2011, 09:50 AM   #23
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Personally I don't think an air to air I/C would be very effective for our setup. The piping would be too long, and you don't see them used very often with roots type blowers. It might have something to do with the way they compress air versus how a turbo works, but I think you'd lose too much of the boost response by having to compress all the air in the I/C and piping, and response is the biggest advantage of a roots blower. That's why they usually use air to water I/C because the piping is shorter and the core is smaller. Also on my particular setup I don't have room or air flow in front for an air to air I/C. No central opening on the RK bumper and I have an oil cooler and trans cooler already there in front of the condenser.

I still think alky injection is the best option for this kit though. No extra piping or core to install at all so it's less weight and takes up less room, and only needs to be activated when the boost gets high enough. And you get the added octane, all in a small package.
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Old 07-24-2011, 10:12 AM   #24
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Yesterday I got the blower out and made a temporary WAI intake so I could drive the car. Used a short piece of 3" aluminum pipe I had and some rubber grommets I had sitting around, then modified the rest of the lines so I could hook everything up and make it work.





Here's a couple picks of the quick porting job I did on my extra UIM so that I could use my 65mm TB, which was my only option since I don't have intake piping that will fit the stock one.








Today I'm going to start taking to blower apart and work on porting the inlet/outlet of the blower and I want to do a little more work on the inlet/outlet casting which I previously ported. I also want to clean up a few things with the porting I did on my polished UIM that I did a long time ago.
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Last edited by AaronGTR; 07-24-2011 at 10:15 AM.
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Old 07-24-2011, 10:23 AM   #25
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I also took the alternator and coils off and took off both valve covers and re-torqued all the nuts on the head studs and the header bolts as well. I've been getting a strange noise at cold start up that almost sounds like an exhaust leak. A weird kinda of knocking/rattling noise, and a strange vibration felt in the floor of the car, almost like the exhaust was touching something (but it isn't).

I'll have to wait and see if that makes it go away. There was also some kind of strange seepage around the front head gasket. Can't see anywhere else it would be coming from. It almost looks like it is coming right from between the head and the block, and it's leaving streaks down the front of the block and dripping off the A/C compressor and oil adapter onto the sub-frame.







The weird thing is, the only thing that goes through the head gaskets is coolant. There are no oil passages. All the oil drains from the top of the head down the inside under the LIM. But this stuff looks and feels like oil. I have no idea where it could be coming from, because everything is sealed up tight. All the gaskets and o-rings are new, and I don't see any oil anywhere else on the top of the engine. It's hard to see but I don't think there is any leaking on the rear of the block. For now I just wiped it up and gonna keep an eye on it and hope that tightening that stuff will fix it. It's got me worried though. I hope it isn't related to the oil pressure being so much higher than it used to be. I also hope it's not some kind of sealing problem with the MLS head gaskets. I did everything I was supposed to when I installed them.
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Last edited by AaronGTR; 07-24-2011 at 10:26 AM.
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Old 07-24-2011, 12:04 PM   #26
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if one of the piston rings were bad, would that account for the oil leak and the exhaust leak noise too? what about a bad valve stem seal? could either of those problems get oil into the cylinder?
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Old 07-24-2011, 12:44 PM   #27
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Either one of those could explain oil getting into the cylinder, but wouldn't explain how it would get out. The oil would just burn and go out the exhaust. No way it would get past the head gasket. That's the thing I don't understand... if the head gasket seal was bad enough for fluid to leak past, then it shouldn't hold air pressure either and I'd have no compression. It doesn't make sense. But anyway, all the piston rings and valve seals are brand new so they shouldn't be leaking, and also the streaks are all the way across the block so it would have to be all three cylinders doing it and not just one. Odds of that happening are pretty low. Like I said, it really doesn't make sense.
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Old 07-24-2011, 04:28 PM   #28
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Think maybe your valve cover gaskets were leaking?
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Old 07-24-2011, 04:46 PM   #29
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Rocker cover gasket? Edit: there's no oil in the plug bosses. I'd say maybe a sealant built into the head gasket but they would both do it. Must be oil from somewhere.
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Old 07-25-2011, 05:59 PM   #30
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Nah, it definitely wasn't the valve covers. Gaskets are brand new and there was no sign of oil at all on the cylinder head. Nothing above the line of the head gaskets I could see.

The noise at start up isn't as bad as it was before, but it's definitely still there. The one thing I haven't checked yet is the gasket between the header outlet and down pipe. It's one of those graphite coated fiber/metal matrix gaskets, so it's possible the coolant that got dumped in the exhaust when the head gaskets blew could have degraded it and it might be leaking from there. Gonna unbolt it and check it out when I get the chance.


On another note, I got a call back from Wade Embree at Embree machine, also known as The High Speed Lab, about my SC rebuild. Seems like a very nice guy. Kinda talked my ear off a bit but had lots of great info for me. Seemed very knowledgeable about the kinds of bearings and seals they use in these SC drives and possible causes of failures. Also had some good info on the different coatings they offer and results for several customers. He said he had one customer with a blown miata running 10 psi with no intercooler, which would be similar to my setup then, who saw a 25 degree drop in outlet temps just from the thermal coating on the rotor bores.

His prices for the rebuild were better than stiegemeier's also. He just doesn't do any porting there. So the plan for now is to disassemble the blower and do some very light porting on it myself, then reassemble it and send it to Embree Machine for the full rebuild and coatings. Should be around $825 total, plus a little extra depending on exactly what bearings and seals he has to use and whatever shipping is.
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13.788 @ 103.73 mph (3/2011) 320 whp and 300 ft/lbs torque. (3/2011)
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Last edited by AaronGTR; 07-25-2011 at 06:04 PM.
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Old 07-25-2011, 06:42 PM   #31
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great news! 25 degrees would help you a lot
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no more Big Gears, buh-bye coilovers... illusions of making this a racecar have passed. 12.78 @112.. not a bad grocery getter
-still LOUD AS FCK though

2006 GTO completely stock. rip at 39k.

99 GAGT 108k miles, Borla cat-back, CAI, 65mm TB, EGR delete, WOT-tech intakes, F-Body Brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads.
Suede headliner, heated seats, jvc HU, infinity speakers+amp+subs, LEDs
-probably less than 1000 miles on it in the last 3 years...
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Old 07-25-2011, 11:28 PM   #32
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Wow 25 degrees. Add meth to that and hello timing advance!
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Old 07-26-2011, 01:39 AM   #33
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Why the big IAC port?
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Old 07-26-2011, 01:49 AM   #34
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I thought GT3400 had his ported or it was ported by the previous owner which i think was alexmorrison and it was ported by a company? guess i always just thought you could port anything to an extent.
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Old 07-26-2011, 01:55 AM   #35
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I thought GT3400 had his ported or it was ported by the previous owner which i think was alexmorrison and it was ported by a company? guess i always just thought you could port anything to an extent.
Phil's is ported. Mostly the pieces that aren't actually the supercharger. The charger's outlet is ported.
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Old 07-26-2011, 03:27 PM   #36
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Quote:
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Why the big IAC port?
To match the location of IAC port on the larger 65mm TB so there is no restriction and it won't whistle or have idle problems. I cut the gasket previously to match the back of the TB, so I used that to trace on the UIM where I needed to port including the IAC passage.

Quote:
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I thought GT3400 had his ported or it was ported by the previous owner which i think was alexmorrison and it was ported by a company? guess i always just thought you could port anything to an extent.
mkopsi had his done by stiegemeier's. Thread is here Eaton S/C build. He was the first to have the actual blower ported. Schweppe had the inlet/outlet casting ported on his, and I did mine myself.
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Old 07-26-2011, 10:43 PM   #37
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Got everything disassembled tonight. Wasn't too terribly hard. Just had to take my time and be careful, and use the right tools of course. Didn't take apart the drive shaft or rotor assembly of course, since it wasn't necessary in order to get them out of the housing. I just wanted to get everything off so I can port the case, and I'll leave the other stuff to the shop.



The shaft end, gears, and drive coupler. There was no play in the coupler. It was still tight.



Intake side of the bypass with the plate removed.



This is the bypass on the outlet side of the SC. It's actually quite compact and effective the way they incorporated it into the blower case. All gen4 and later eatons have this.



Rotor assembly. There are some wear marks on the rotor tips so it's obvious they've been touching the housing. Don't know if it's from the high rpm or from bearing wear.



Inside of the rotor case. There is some scoring in the rotor bores from the the contact as well. I think it's light enough they should be able to fix it though. He told me they can machine the rotors and the bores for extra clearance if needed, then the coatings they can apply will smooth the surface and fill the lines as well as bring the tolerances back tighter.



You can also see in that last shot two little triangles where the casting curves down from the intake for the rotor lobes to take in air... that is basically the shape of how stiegemeier's ported mkopsi's blower, so if you follow that you probably can't go wrong. Just have to be careful.

The inlet and outlet and the rotors had a lot of oil and junk on them as well. I don't know if some of that is left from the head gaskets blowing and getting coolant in the intake, or if it's all from the PCV. I know I've still be finding a lot of oil in the intake manifold, so it's apparent that even after the modifications, my catch can isn't doing a lot of good. I'm going to have to look for a new solution because if I spend all the money having this thing rebuilt and coated, I don't want to gunk up the inside with gooey oil residue again as that will just create drag and lost power.
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13.788 @ 103.73 mph (3/2011) 320 whp and 300 ft/lbs torque. (3/2011)
See it here. the total package.

Last edited by AaronGTR; 04-13-2013 at 10:02 AM.
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Old 07-26-2011, 11:16 PM   #38
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That wear on the rotors is pretty excessive compared to what I have personally seen on high mileage m90's.
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Old 07-26-2011, 11:21 PM   #39
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Hope you didn't get Supercharger oil on anything...you will smell it FOREVER!
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Old 07-27-2011, 06:12 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AaronGTR View Post
The inlet and outlet and the rotors had a lot of oil and junk on them as well. I don't know if some of that is left from the head gaskets blowing and getting coolant in the intake, or if it's all from the PCV. I don't know I've still be finding a lot of oil in the intake manifold, so it's apart that even after the modifications, my catch can isn't doing a lot of good. I'm going to have to look for a new solution because if I spend all the money having this thing rebuilt and coated, I don't want to gunk up the inside with gooey oil residue again as that will just create drag and lost power.
draft tube
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2009 G8 gt
no more Big Gears, buh-bye coilovers... illusions of making this a racecar have passed. 12.78 @112.. not a bad grocery getter
-still LOUD AS FCK though

2006 GTO completely stock. rip at 39k.

99 GAGT 108k miles, Borla cat-back, CAI, 65mm TB, EGR delete, WOT-tech intakes, F-Body Brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads.
Suede headliner, heated seats, jvc HU, infinity speakers+amp+subs, LEDs
-probably less than 1000 miles on it in the last 3 years...
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