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Old 09-03-2014, 01:18 PM   #1
TDavis
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OEM Lateral links

Since I want to buy the right parts the first time I was wondering if all the lateral links are the same?

As in is the frontward driverside the same as the frontward passenger side? And rearward driver side the same as the rearward passenger side? And could anybody give me a link on OEM ones?

Reason I ask is when installing the rear sway bar we found out that the rearward driver side lateral link got bent by god knows what and I was just going to replace them all at once instead of just one.

Here's the pic of it as you can see. Might just replace the rear trailing arms as well just so it can look nice under there since those are the only things that have rust on them .

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Old 09-03-2014, 02:12 PM   #2
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I had one bent like that as well, but i ended up replacing it with one from the junkyard that was in good condition. I know the forward one regardless of driver or passenger are the same. This also applies to the rearward links. However, as you may of noticed, you can not switch out the forward links with the rearward links due to the length difference.

The part numbers are as follows:
MS50167 Rear Forward Links
MS50168 Rear Rearward Links
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Old 09-03-2014, 05:01 PM   #3
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Is Mevotech a considerable brand to go with? Thats only brand I'm getting when I google the Part #s.
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Old 09-03-2014, 05:07 PM   #4
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But then again I dunno if I wanna go the GP route and get GP tubular links, as long as that doesn't require much modification.
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Old 09-03-2014, 05:09 PM   #5
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Yes. And actually according to rockauto they are the most expensive. Raybestos are a few dollars cheaper. Those part numbers are 5071768 and 5071618. Go to rockauto.com and look under your year make and model then search for lateral links. You have a few options to choose from.
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Old 09-03-2014, 05:14 PM   #6
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How difficult is the oem grand prix tubular links mod? I hear those are lighter and stronger.
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Old 09-03-2014, 07:32 PM   #7
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Not hard at all I did the GP link swap over a weekend.


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Old 09-03-2014, 07:34 PM   #8
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Not too difficult. All you need is the w-body lateral links (1997-2003) I think. You will want to reuse their bolts. I don't recall the size of the bolts to the subframe, but they are larger so all you will need to do is enlarge the holes just a tad to match the bolts and you are all set. I planned on doing this mod which Is why I grabbed a lateral link from the junk yard as an inexpensive fix. I still intend on either buying a set of BMR links or perhaps WOJ method only using something other than aluminum for longevity. Bare minimum, I will upgrade to the Grand Prix laterals..
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Old 09-03-2014, 08:38 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDavis View Post
But then again I dunno if I wanna go the GP route and get GP tubular links, as long as that doesn't require much modification.
If you want to stay stock then I have a brand new set of Mevotech laterals with less than 150 miles on them that I'll work a good deal on if you're interested...they're still in the original boxes. I bought them from Rockuto and then decided to do the tubular lateral mod.
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Old 09-03-2014, 09:50 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black&Red01 View Post
Not hard at all I did the GP link swap over a weekend.
So just to make sure the GP ones are just like the GA ones, as in, rearward ones can be used on either rearward side, doesn't matter which and frontwards don't matter either?

Also why are the rearward ones the only ones that are adjustable?

So I need 2 of these?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...757&cc=1359334


And then 2 of these?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...680&cc=1359334

Quote:
Originally Posted by blckgagt View Post
Not too difficult. All you need is the w-body lateral links (1997-2003) I think. You will want to reuse their bolts. I don't recall the size of the bolts to the subframe, but they are larger so all you will need to do is enlarge the holes just a tad to match the bolts and you are all set. I planned on doing this mod which Is why I grabbed a lateral link from the junk yard as an inexpensive fix. I still intend on either buying a set of BMR links or perhaps WOJ method only using something other than aluminum for longevity. Bare minimum, I will upgrade to the Grand Prix laterals..
I wouldn't mind doing the BMR links but IIRC they come with Poly urethane bushings and I don't want my car riding stiffer then it already is, IF that makes it ride stiffer, dunno if it does, maybe confusing it with control arms. But also $250 for just two is a bit of a investment.

BTW do the ones I buy from RockAuto come with the GP bolts?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Starglow View Post
If you want to stay stock then I have a brand new set of Mevotech laterals with less than 150 miles on them that I'll work a good deal on if you're interested...they're still in the original boxes. I bought them from Rockuto and then decided to do the tubular lateral mod.
I might hit you up on that but I would like to do the GP upgrade if I can. I'm assuming it is an actual upgrade over stock?
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Last edited by TDavis; 09-03-2014 at 10:01 PM.
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Old 09-03-2014, 11:09 PM   #11
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Yes buy 2 of each. The new bolt size is 9/16 instead of the 1/2 inch GA bolts. You also need the rear knuckle bolts off a Monte or GP. I used knuckle bolts off of a Monte and bought 4 bolts from the hardware store to put in the subframe.

Not sure why only the rearward are adjustable just the way it is I guess.

If you buy from rockauto bolts are NOT included.

Last edited by Black&Red01; 09-03-2014 at 11:12 PM.
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Old 09-04-2014, 08:02 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDavis View Post

I wouldn't mind doing the BMR links but IIRC they come with Poly urethane bushings and I don't want my car riding stiffer then it already is, IF that makes it ride stiffer, dunno if it does, maybe confusing it with control arms. But also $250 for just two is a bit of a investment.

BTW do the ones I buy from RockAuto come with the GP bolts?
I understand how you feel about the BMR links. They are much more expensive. Either way, the GP links would be sufficient if you are on a budget. Also, you would have to ask someone how much of a difference the ride quality is with BMR links and poly bushings. They would be more stiff than stock, but i can't imagine them making the ride that bad.

Regarding the bolts, you would have to get them separately. You will want to use the bolts for the subframe and to the knuckle and transfer them to your car.
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Old 09-04-2014, 08:15 AM   #13
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Quote:
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So just to make sure the GP ones are just like the GA ones, as in, rearward ones can be used on either rearward side, doesn't matter which and frontwards don't matter either?

Also why are the rearward ones the only ones that are adjustable?

So I need 2 of these?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...757&cc=1359334


And then 2 of these?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...680&cc=1359334
Yes, you are correct, treat the GP ones just like you would the stock lateral arms. Regarding the rearward lateral arms, I would assume they play the largest role in adjusting the suspension. I'm sure it was also a cost cutting measure to not have the forward ones adjustable as well. As you can see from the BMR links, both come adjustable. Our stockers don't even have this option, so for that alone they will be beneficial.
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Old 09-04-2014, 12:00 PM   #14
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The GP laterals move the camber adjustment from the rear subframe bolt cams to the threaded rod on the rearward lateral links which also allows more adjustment capability than the stock cam bolts allowed. As far as ride quality, it's really hard for me to judge on a basic stock setup because my GA also has the PFYC Speedbuilt sway bars installed however between the two mods the car is tight going into sharp turns and handles much better than stock.
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Old 09-04-2014, 12:04 PM   #15
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Stock arms are not adjustable because there is a cam on the bolt head on the inner ends that bolt to the subframe. IE rotating the bolt moves the arm in or out at the mounting point then you tighten the nut to lock it in place. That's how they adjust camber and toe for the rear alignment. I don't remember if the w-body has the same setup, but the adjustable rear links are for toe adjustment. The ones on my grand prix were rusted solid and I had to have them replaced when I bought it so I could have the alignment done.

Having the adjustment in the bar itself like BMR does would allow easy toe and camber adjustment without needing any cam bolts.
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Old 09-06-2014, 12:19 AM   #16
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Know anywhere I could get the knuckle bolts besides a JY?
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Old 09-06-2014, 12:55 AM   #17
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Know anywhere I could get the knuckle bolts besides a JY?
GM Dealer......you won't find them at the hardware store.
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Old 09-06-2014, 01:35 AM   #18
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Or go to fastenal and get better/new upgraded bolts. Thats what I do. Bring in a stock bolt they will get you what you need and tell them what its for so they know how strong the bolt needs to be. Ive gone to fastenal for caliper bolts and UIM stainless bolts. Havent had one problem with any of there bolts. Great quality.
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Old 09-06-2014, 08:46 AM   #19
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Or go to fastenal and get better/new upgraded bolts. Thats what I do. Bring in a stock bolt they will get you what you need and tell them what its for so they know how strong the bolt needs to be. Ive gone to fastenal for caliper bolts and UIM stainless bolts. Havent had one problem with any of there bolts. Great quality.
Even fastenal might not have those bolts though. The knuckle bolts are like 10" long or something. They are kinda like the bolts that go through the rear bushing on the front LCA's and hold the front sub-frame to the chassis... highly specialized and not a standard bolt.
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Old 09-06-2014, 09:43 AM   #20
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Doesnt hurt to try. I havent been let down by them yet.
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